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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 









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COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK; 



AND 



HOUSEKEEPERS' GUIDE 

TO COOEEHY AND EITCHEN MANAGEIUCENT. 



AN EXPLANATION OF THE PRINCIPLES OF DOMESTIC ECONOMY 
TAUGHT IN THE NEW YORK SCHOOL OF COOKERY. 




By JULIET CORSON. 
Superintendent of the Neiv York School of Cookery. 

AUTHOR OP "the COOKING MAKUAL," "MEALS FOR THE MILLION," " TWENTY-FIVK 

CENT DINNERS," •" DIET FOR INVALIDS AND CHILDREN," " THE 

WORKINGMAN's DIETARY," " FIFTEEN-CENT 

DINNERS," ETC. 



SIXTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 



NEW YORK: 
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 
751 Broadway. 
1883. 




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Copyrighted 1877 and 1878 by 
JULIET CORSON. 
All Rights Reserved. 



Electrotyped by 
Lovejoy Bon & Ckh 



PRE FA C E. 

Public interest in the work of popularizing cheap and 
good cookery has for some time been so marked, and so 
many applications for a book of this character are contin- 
ually received at tlie N. Y. School of Cookery, that we 
feel quite justified in offering our special plan of instruc- 
tion for the guidance of societies or individuals who wish 
to establish similar institutions elsewhere. 

In presenting this text-book to the public, we desire to 
call attention to the necessity for accompanying technical 
instruction with some explanation of the principles of 
cookery as applicable to the preservation of the general 
health. A book of mere receipts ^vould fail to accomplish 
the purpose we have in view, i. e., some intelligent com- 
prehension on the part of the cook of the chemistry of 
food and the physiology of nutrition. Our present limits 
will not permit any lengthy exemplification of this point, 
but we have embodied the general features of our instruc- 
tions in the appendix to this volume, and the student is 
advised to become well acquainted with them before begin- 
ning the actual practice of the cooking lessons. The 
knowdedge thus obtained will be available in enabling tyros 
in the culinary art to realize the imperative necessity for 
careful study from the very outset of their work, and will 

(iii) 



iv. PREFACE. 



assist the more advanced pupils (1) to classify different 
articles of food in accordance with their effect upon the 
system; (2) to alter and improve the dietaries of persons 
following stated pursuits, so as to satisfy their physical 
and mental needs; (3) to detect the adulteration and de- 
terioration of food. The scholars should be questioned 
occasionally by their teacher, as the lessons progress, for 
the purpose of arriving at their understanding of the sub- 
ject; and, near the end of the course, they should be 
thoroughly examined; in no case should a diploma or cer- 
tificate of proficiency be given until the jDupil has not only 
mastered the principles specified in the appendix, but has 
also given abundant evidence by practical demonstration 
that the cooking lessons are clearly understood. 

Every cooking lesson should consist of the actual prepara- 
tion of certain suitable dishes by the pupils, if the class is 
small, or by some of the number acting in turn as assist- 
ants, when the class is large; the marketing should be 
done by them, or in their presence, in all possible cases; 
the kitchen, the fire and the utensils, put in order for the 
lesson by them, and the most capable of them should act 
as pupil teachers, aiding their less expert associates while 
practicing their own tasks. The expense of the lessons can 
be considerably diminished by allowing the pupils, their 
friends, or visitors at the lessons, to purchase the dishes at 
about their cost. 

Both reasons and facts are good things for the average 
cook to comprehend; familiarity with the nature of the 
different nutriments in common use enables persons of or- 
dinary intelligence to compose a variety of nourishing 



PREFACE. 



dishes from a limited market supply, and sho\rs how 
greatly the appetizing nature of a meal depends upon its 
combination and seasoning. 

The prime fact that the sole object of cooking is to pre- 
pare for nourishing the body should never be forgotten, 
and, consequently, the methods which are best calculated 
to serve this purpose are the proper ones to employ. Good 
cooking should not be regarded as an incentive to gluttony, 
or used as the means of tempting the luxurious to undue 
indulgence of appetite; it has a nobler purpose, the ac- 
complishment of which demands foresight, care and pa- 
tience. Its mission is to sliow how every scrap of untainted 
food, cheap or costly, can be made to yield all its nutrient 
properties; to decide how every available particle can best 
be converted into warmth and strength. 

Economy in cooking is often miscalled meanness; but 
the desire of a conscientious cook to economise is propor- 
tionate with his or her mastery of the culinary art. A 
good cook will not waste food any more than a good work- 
man will wantonly ruin his tools or his handiwork. 

Some discussion may arise concerning the prices attached 
to the ingredients required in making the dir.hes compos- 
ing the lessons. It may be well in this connecwion to state 
that we have, for the past three years, been collecting 
the retail price lists of foods from all parts of the United 
States, and from information already received, we feel quite 
confident that the prices herein quoted will be found to 
form an aveuage sufficiently accurate for a standard in es- 
timating the expense of giving a course of cooking lessons. 
The prices in Boston and Philadelphia seem to range 



VL PREFACE. 



liigher than those in Washington and Chicago. The 
figures used in this work represent the rates current in 
such New York localities as those east of Third and west 
of Seventh avenues, and in Washington Market. But in 
any place the price paid for articles of food largely depends 
upon the knowledge and discretion of the purchaser. 

Before concluding this preface we desire to express our 
earnest thanks to those friends of the Cooking School 
who have manifested such genuine interest, and given 
such substantial support to the institution. Foremost 
among them ranks the public press of the United States, 
which has invariably accorded its generous support and 
judicious endorsement to the enterprise. To the encour- 
agement and influence of the press is due the success which 
has attended the work of the New York School of 
Cookery. 



CONTENTS. 



PREFACE, ..-----.-- Page 3. 

PART I. 
CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTORY TO ALL THE COURSES OP LESSONS. 

Choice and Fittings of Demonstration Kitchen^Weights, Meas- 
ures, and Seasonings — How to Clean Kitchen — How to Clean 
Stove — How to Make and Keep up Fii-e — The Best K i n d of 
Fuel — Cooking Temperatures — Best Material for Cooking 
UtensUs— How to Clean Utensils ----- Page 13. 

CHAPTER 11. 

FIRST LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE- 

Material for Soup — Vegetable Poiridge — Pea Soup with CroH- 
tons— Scotch Broth without Meat — Beef and Vegetable 
Soup ----------- Page 25. 

CHAPTER m. 

SECOND LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

How to Choose Fish— Boiled Haddock with Parsley Sauce — Fried 
Filets of Flounder — Broiled Filets with Maitre d^Hotel 

Butter— Grilled Fish Bones ------ Page 31. 

CHAPTER IV. 

THIRD LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

How to Choose Eggs — How to Keep Eggs — ^Boiled Eggs — Poached 



Eggs — Fried Eggs — ^Plain Omelette — Parsley Omelette — 
Sweet Omelette -------- Page 34. 

CHAPTER V. 

FOURTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

Baker's and Homemade Bread— Yeast — How to Set Bread- 
Sponge — Biscuit— Milk RoUs — Breakfast Twist - - Page 37. 

CHAPTER VI. 

FIFTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

How to Choose Macaroni — How to Boil Macaroni — ^IMacaroni, 
Farmer's Style — Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce — Baked 
Macaroni —How to Mould, Prove, and Bake Bread - Page 40. 

CHAPTER Vn. 

SIXTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

Leguminous Vegetables — Peas and Bacon — ^White Haricot Beans, 
Bordelaise Style — Boiled Lentils — Fried Lentils— Red Kidney 
Beans, Stewed .--.----- Page 43. 

(vii.) 



viii. CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER Vni. 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

How to Choose Potatoes — How to Keep Potatoes — Boiled Pota- 
toes— ii/onjiatse Potatoes — German Potatoes — Potato Salad Page 45. 

CHAPTER IX. 

EIGHTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

How to Choose Vegetables — How to Keep Vegetables — How to 
Boil Green Vegetables — Hot Slaw — Baked Turnips — ^Parsnip 
Fritters ---- - Page 49. 

CHAPTER X. 

NINTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

Cheapest Cuts of Meat — Combination Dishes — Potato Pot — ^Beef 
d la ModCy Victoria Style — ^Pork and Beans — ^Bacon and 
Cabbage -_-_-_---- Page 52. 

CHAPTER XI. 

TENTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

Parts of Animals called Entrails— Haslet Ragout — Stewed Tripe 

—Stuffed Heart— Broiled Kidneys ----- Pi^e 55. 

CHAPTER XII. 

ELEVENTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE- 

How to Cook for Invalids — Toast — ^Toast Water — Tea— Beef Tea — 

Chicken JeDy — ^Panada — Barlej^ Water — ^Apple Water - Page 58. 

CHAPTER Xin. 

TWELFTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

Nutritive Value of Pies and Puddings — Swiss Pudding with 
Cream Sauce — Cream Rice Pudding — ^Apple Tarts — Gold 
Cake — Silver Cake - - _ - . _ _ Page 62. 



I 



PART II, 
CHAPTER I. 

FIRST LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

OxtaH Soup — Cai'amel — Baked Herrings — Liver Rolls — Cassel 

Puddings with Hard Sauce ------ Page 66. 

CHAPTER n. 

SECOND LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Crecy Soup — Filets of Fish with Spanish Sauce — Ragout of 

Spareribs and Peas — Caramel Custai'ds - - - - Page TO. 

CHAPTER in. 

THIRD LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Mulligatawny Soup — Persillade of Fish — ^Fried Brains — ^Lemon 

Diunplings --------- Page 72. 

CHAPTER IV. 

FOURTH LESSON OP THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Tripe Soup — Fiied Halibut Neck — Kolcannon — ^Bubble and 

Squeak — Apple Fritters ------- Page 76. 



CONTENTS. ix. 



CHAPTER V. 

FIFTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Gravy Soup — Boiled Pike with Egg Sauce — Curry of Pork — 

Orange Omelette Page 79. 

CHAPTER VI. 

SIXTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Turtle Bean Soup — ^Fish Chowder— Chicken Pie — Corn Starch 

Puddings - Page 82. 

CHAPTER VII. 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Wrexham Soup — Fish Croquettes— Creole Sausages— Apple 

Croutes Page 85. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

EIGHTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Bi^noise Soup — Clam Fritters— Mutton Rechauffe — Cabinet 

Pudding with Jelly Sauce - - - - . - - Page 88. 

CHAPTER IX. 

NINTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Pot-au-Feu — Devilled Crabs— Beef and Vegetables— French Pan- 
cakes - - - - Page 91. 

CHAPTER X. 

TENTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Creole Soup — Boiled Ray with Piquante Sauce — Salmi of Duck — 

Baroness Pudding -------- Page 94. 

CHAPTER XI. 

ELEVENTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Mutton Broth— Fish Fie— Krameskies—Fvicadels— Apple Char- 
lotte, plain --------- Page 97. 

CHAPTER XII. 

TWELFTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 

Piir^e of Fish— Baked Cod with Cream — Cui-ried Trij^e — Sago 

Pudding Page 100. 



PART III. 



CHAPTER I. 

FIRST LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Stock — Flavoring, Thickening and Coloring Soup — Clear Soup, 
or Consommi — Scotch Broth — Vermicelli Soup — Julienne 
Soup— Spinach Soup — Pea Soup ----- Page 103. 

CHAPTER II. 

SECOND LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Boiled Cod with Hollandaise Sance— Filet of Sole with Caper 
Butter — Baked Bass — Broiled Shad with Maitre cfHotel 
Butter ---------- Page 111. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER III. 

THIRD LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Blanquette of Veal— Chicken Cva-rj— Ragout of Beef— Mutton 

Cho^s Saute — Broiled Steak ------ Page 114. 

CHAPTER IV. 

FOURTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

A la Mode Beef— Breast of Veal, Stuffed — Canton of Lamb — 

Roast Ham with Madeira Sauce and Vegetable Garnish - Page 118. 

CHAPTER V. 

FIFTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Roast Duck with Watercresses— Wild Duck— Boiled Fowl with 
Oyster Sauce — Boned Birds — Broiled Birds — Chicken 
Fricassee ---------- Page 122. 

CHAPTER VI. 

SIXTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Boiled Potatoes — Potato Croquettes — Kentucky Potatoes — 
Stuffed Potatoes — Boiled Green Peas — Stewed Turnips with 
Bechamel ^axxce ........ Page 127. 

CHAPTER VII. 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

How to Boil Macaroni — Macaroni with White Sauce — Macaroni 
with Parmesan Cheese — Macaroni d Vltalienne — Macaroni 
d la Milanaise --------- Page 180. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

EIGHTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Poached Eggs — Scrambled Eggs — Baked Eggs — Ham Omelette — 
Oyster Omelette — Fine Herbs Omelette — Omelette with Pre- 
serves ----- Page 131. 

CHAPTER IX. 

NINTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Bread— Rolls— Biscuit -------- Page 133. 

CHAPTER X. 

TENTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Fruit Cake — ^Pound Cake — Sponge Cake — Cranbeny Pie — Apple 

Pie — Cream Meringue Pie ------ Page 133. 

CHAPTER XI. 

ELEVENTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Mutton Broth — Chicken Broth — Beef Tea — Beefsteak Juice — 

Oatmeal Porridge — Chocolate — Iceland Moss Blanc-Mange Page 137. 

CHAPTER XII. 

TWELFTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Baked Potatoes — Broiled Chops — Baked Apples — Tapioca Pud- 
ding — Apples and Rice — Apple Custards _ - _ Page 139, 



I 



CONTENTS. xi. 



PART IV. 
CHAPTER I. 

FIRST LESSON OF LADIES' COURSE IN MIDDLE CLASS AND ARTISTIC 

COOKERY, 

Consommi d la Roy ale — Baked Cai-p with Spanish Sauce — Pota- 
toes d la lioyale — Breast of Lamb with Bechamel Sauce — 
Cauliflower axi gratin — Roast Beef — Salade a. la Eomaine — 
Apple MeHngues ___ Page 143. 

CHAPTER n. 

SECOND LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Piir^e of Salmon — Filets of Bass d la Eoyale — Julienne Potatoes 
— Fricandeau of Veal — Rizotta a la Milanaise — ^Roast Ham 
with Champagne Sauce — Celery d la Cardiriale — Creme 
Reverse. ......... Page 148. 

CHAPTER III. 

THIRD LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Mock Turtle Soup Stock— Halibut Neck d la CrtoZe— Broiled Po- 
tatoes—Salmon Croquetteft — Oyster Plant Saut^ aux Fines 
Hcrbes — Canton of Lamb d la Jardinere — Salade dla Russe 
— Cabinet Pudding - - . _ _ _ - Page 153. 

CHAPTER IV. 

FOURTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Mock Turtle Soup — Crimped Cod d la Colbert — Parisienne Pota- 
toes — Calf's Tongue and Brains with Tartar Sauce — Jerusa- 
lem Artichokes — Artichokes with Butter Sauce — Calf's Head 
d la Foxdette — Anchovy Salad — Omelette Soufflee — Chocolate 
Soiiffl.ee ---------- Page 159. 

CHAPTER V. 

FIFTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Cream of Beets — Oysters d la Foxdette — Saratoe.a Potatoes — 
Fried Oysters — Broiled Oysters — Red HaHcot Btans Soxde 
d la Bordelaise — Baron of Lamb with Mint Sauce — Salade d 
la Macedoine — Cream Frittei"^ ----- Page 165. 

CHAPTER VI. 

SIXTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Potage d la Reine — Broiled Trout with Maitre d'' Hotel Butter — 
Duchesse Potatoes — Canton de Roxien — Celery d la Villeroi 
— Breast of Lamb d la Marechale — Chicken Salad — Rice Cro- 
qiiettes with Vanilla Cream Sauce ----- Page 170. 

CHAPTER VIL 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Mock Terrapin Soup — Boxiilhtbaisse — Potatoes axi gratin — Calf's 
Liver d la Bordelaise — Macaroni d la Napolitaine — Braized 
Beef d la Printaniere — Salade d la Suede — French Pan- 
cakes ..__---.--. Page 175. 



xii. CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

EIGHTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Mi-car^me Soup — Halibut Filets d la Mare chale— Potatoes d la 
Creme— Curry of Duck d V Indienne— Kale with Butter 
Sauce— Roast Turkey— French Salad— Cream Cakes— Choco- 
late £:cZai?-s - . - Page 180. 

CHAPTER IX. 

NINTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Purde of Celery — ^Eels en Matelotte — Potatoes d la Maitre d^Hotel 
—Galantine of Chicken (First Part)-Asparagus Peas— Braized 
Capons with Tongue — Lobster Salad — Cumberland Pudding 
with Rum Sauce ._-_---- Page 185. 

CHAPTER X. 

TENTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Game Consomme d la Desclignac — Carp d la Chambord — Pota- 
toes d la Provengale — Galantine of Chicken (Second Part) — 
Oyster Patties — Shoulder of Lamb d la linanciir'e — Shad- 
roe Salad — Macedoine of Fruits . . _ _ _ Page 191. 

CHAPTER XI. 

ELEVENTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Potage d la Hollandaise — Scallops of Sturgeon aux Fines Herbes 
— Potatoes with Sauce Piquante — Chicken Saute d la 
Marengo — Brussels Sprouts d la Maitre d'Hotel — ^Roast 
Pigeons — Shrimp Salad — Pudding Diplomatique - - Page 198. 

CHAPTER XII. 

TWELFTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. |j '| 

Puree of Carrots — ^Turban of Flounders d la Hollandaise — Pota- 
toes Saute d la Barigoule — Mutton Cutlets d la Milanaise — 
French Beans SautA aux Fines Herbes — Filet de Boeuf d la 
Macedoine— Italian Salad— To Glace Fruit and l^uts—Gdteau 
de Princesse Louise - - - - - - - Page 202. 



PART V. 

APPENDIX — To BE Used with All the Different Courses. 

CHAPTER I. 
The Physiology of Nutrition Page ;ao8. 

CHAPTER II. 

The Chemistry of Food Page 220. 

CHAPTER 111. 
Dietary for Schools Page 237. 

INDEX. 

Index of Dishes Page 250. 

General Index Page 255. 

LIST OF KITCHEN UTENSILS 
Required for use in all the Courses of Lessons - Page 258. 



I 



PART I. 

CHAPTER I. 

THE DEMONSTRATION KITCHEN. 

Choice and Fittings of Kitchen.— The room selected 
as the place where cooking lessons are to be given must be 
light, airy, and thoroughly ventilated; its size may be in 
accordance with the probable audience. When plenty of 
space is available, two rooms of different size are desirable; 
a small one for the practice-kitchen, and a large one for 
the demonstration lessons. 

The practice kitchen must contain a stove or range in 
good burning order, a sink with a full supply of hot and 
cold water, a dresser for dishes, a light closet for pots and 
pans, three or four large, strong, unpain ted wooden tables, 
and plenty of cooking utensils in good condition. 

The large demonstration kitchen must contain a large 
stove or range, a sink with plenty of hot and cold water, 
a large, light pot-closet, a dresser for dishes and several 
strong tables of unpainted wood. A refrigerator for keep- 
ing food is a necessary adjunct, even in cool weather; for 
by using one all the various perishable supplies will nec- 
essarily be collected together, and being under the cook's 
observation constantly, can be properly utilized without 
waste. The refrigerator should stand at a distance from 
I ho stove in order to escape the heat of the fire, and near a 
window, for the purpose of insuring fresh air. 

In front of these articles of kitchen furniture, and about 
six feet from them, a long table or counter should extend 
across the width of the room; a low platform, containing a 



14 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



lecturer's desk, should be placed at one end of the counter, 
in such a position as to command a full view of every part 
of the room without interfering with the prospect of the 
audience. When practicable, a gas pipe should be run 
under the counter, and jets be projected through apertures 
in it, in such a manner as to permit the preparation of 
some of the smaller dishes within the immediate view of 
the audience. 

In front of the counter rows of seats should be placed, 
each row being slightly elevated above the one in front of 
it, so as to insure an unimpeded prospect to every one at- 
tending the demonstration. 

The bill of fare for the lesson should be written in large, 
clear letters upon a bulletin board placed in a conspicuous 
position. The pupils present at a lesson should be pro- 
vided with note-books and pencils, and should carefully 
record every useful hint and direction given by the dem- 
onstrator. It is useless to hope to remember all the infor- 
mation imparted during a cooking lesson, and every scholar 
should bear in mind the fact that accuracy in receipts is 
the secret of that even excellence which stamps the work 
of the well-trained cook. 

Accurate Weights and Measures.— The demonstrator 

should weigh or measure every ingredient used, and report 
its exact quantity to the audience; if the flavor does not 
suit individual palates, the necessary alterations may be 
made, but the i^roper amount once found should never be 
deviated from, if a uniform flavor is desired. Very much 
of the excellence of a dish depends upon its seasoning, and 
it is well worth a little trouble to decide upon the palatable 
point, and a little cai-e to abide by the decision. We give 
below a few receipts for preparing seasonings. 

Dried Herbs. — R^^h the leaves of a bunch of dried herbs 
through a sieve, and bottle them tightly until needed for 
use; tie the stalks together and save them until wanted to 



I 



THE DEMONSTRATION KITCHEN. 15 



make what the French call a houquet, for a soup or stew. 
A louqiiet of herbs is made by tying together a few sprigs 
of parsley, thyme and two bay-leaves. The bay-leaves, 
which have the flavor of laurel, can be bought at any Ger- 
man grocery or drug-store, enough to last for a long time, 
for five cents. The best herbs are sage, thyme, sweet mar- 
joram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley, bay-leaves, cel- 
ery seed and onions. If the seed of any of the seven first 
mentioned is planted in little boxes on the window sill, or 
in a sunny spot in the yard, enough can be raised for gen- 
eral use. Gather and dry them as follows: parsley and tar- 
ragon should be dried in June and July, j-ust before flower- 
ing; mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram and savory 
in July and August; basil and sage in August and Septem- 
ber; all herbs should be gathered in the sunshine and 
dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best preserved by 
keeping them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly corked 
glass bottles. 
Dried Celery and Parsley.— In using celery, wash the 

leaves, stalks, roots and trimmings, and put them in a cool 
oven to dry thoroughly; then grate the root, and rub the 
leaves and stalks through a sieve, and put all into a tight- 
ly corked bottle, or tin can witli close cover; this makes a 
most delicious seasoning for soups, stews and stuffing. In 
using parsley, save every bit of leaf, stalk or root, and treat 
them in the same way as the celery. Remember, in using 
parsley, that the root has even a stronger flavor than the 
leaves, and do not waste a bit. 

Tarragon Vinegar, — Use a bunch of fresh tarragon in 
summer, or the dried herb in winter; put it in an earthen 
bowl, and pour on it one pint of scalding hot vinegar; 
cover it and let it stand until the next diiy; then strain it 
and put it into a bottle tightly corked. Either put more 
hot vinegar on the tarragon, or dry it, and save it until 
wanted to make more; a gallon or more can be made from 



16 COO KINO SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



one bunch; only every time it is used it must stand a day 
longer. 

Celery Salt, — Mix celery root, which has been dried and 
grated as above, with one fourth its quantity of salt; it 
makes a nice seasoning, and keeps a long time. 

Spice Salt, — 't'^iis can be made nicely by drying, pow- 
dering and mixing byrepea.ted sif tings the following ingre- 
dients: one quarter of an ounce each of powdered thyme, 
bay-leaf and pepper; one eighth of an ounce each of mar- 
joram and cayenne pepper; one half of an ounce each of 
powdered clove and nutmeg; to every four ounces of this 
powder add one ounce of salt, and keep the mixture in an 
air-tight vessel. One ounce of it added to three pounds of 
stuffing, or force meat of any kind, makes a delicious sea- 
soning. 

How to Clean the Kitchen.— C^-) I^^st down the ceiling 
and side walls with a feather duster, or a clean cloth tied 
over a broom. (2.) Sweep the floor, setting the broom 
evenly upon the floor, and moving it with long, regular 
strokes, being careful not to fling the refuse about the 
room, or to raise much dust. (8.) Wash the ])aint with a 
piece of clean flannel dipped in hot water, in which borax 
has been dissolved in the proportion of one tablespoonful 
to a gallon of water; if the spots are not easily rubbed off, 
use a little soap, rinsing it off thoroughly, and wiping the 
paint with the flannel wrung out of clean water. (4.) 
Wash the window-glass with a soft cloth which does not 
shed lint, dipped in clean water and wrung out; polish the 
glass with a clean, dry cloth, or with newspaper. (5.) 
Scrub the tables with hot water, in which a little washing 
soda and soap have been dissolved, using a stiff biusli; then 
rinse them with a cloth wrung out of clean, hot water, and 
wipe them as dry as possible. (0.) Scrub the floor in the 
same manner, and wipe it quite dry. (7.) Wash all the 



THE DEMONSTRATION KITCHEN. 17 



scrubbing brashes and cloths in hot water containing a lit- 
tle soda and soap. (8.) Wash all the dish cloths and kitch- 
en towels in hot water, with soap and soda, or borax, 
every time they are used, and keep a clean, dry stock of 
them on hand. 

How to Clean the Stove.— (l.) Let down the grate and 
take up the cinders and ashes carefully to avoid all unnec- 
essary dirt; put them at once into an ash-sifter fitted into 
the top of a pail or keg with handles, and closed with a 
tight fitting cover; take the pail out of doors, sift the cin- 
ders, put the ashes into the ash-can, and bring the cinders 
back to the kitchen. (2.) Brush the soot and ashes out of 
all the flues and draught-lioles of the stove, and then put 
the covers on, and brush all the dust off the outside. A 
careful cook will save all the wings of game and poultry to 
use for this purpose. If the stove is greasy wash it off 
with a piece of flannel dipped in hot water containing a 
little soda. (3.) Mix a little black-lead or stove polish with 
enough water to form a thin paste; apply this to the stove 
with a soft rag or brush; let it dry a little and then polish 
it with a stiff brush. (4.) If there are any steel fittings 
about the stove, polish them Avith emery paper; if they have 
rusted from neglect, rub souie oil on them at night, and 
polish them with emery paper in the morning. A '' burn- 
isher," composed of a net-work of fine steel rings, if used 
with strong hands, will make them look as if newly fin- 
ished. (5.) If the fittings are brass, they should be cleaned 
with emery or finely powdered and sifted bath brick dust 
rubbed on with a piece of damp flannel, and then polished 
with dry dust and chamois skin. (6.) Brush up the hearth- 
stone, wash it with a piece of flannel dipped in hot water 
containing a little soda, rinse, and wipe it dry with the 
flannel wrung out of clean hot water. 

How to Light the Fire.— P^t a double handful of cin- 
ders iu the bottom of the grate, separating them so that 



18 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



the air can pass freely between them; put on them a layer 
of dry paper, loosely squeezed between the hands; on the 
paper lay some small sticks of wood cross-wise, so as to per- 
mit a draught from the bottom; place a double handful of 
small cinders and bits of coal on top of the wood; close the 
covers of the stove; open all the draughts, and light the 
paper from the bottom of the grate. As the fire burns up 
gradually add mixed coal and cinders until there is a clear, 
bright body of fire; then partly close the draughts, and 
keep tlie fire bright by occasionally putting on a little coal. 
The condition of the draught closely affects the degree of 
heat yielded by a given amount of fuel; just enough air 
should be supplied to promote combustion; but if a strong 
current blows through the mass of fire, or over its surface, 
it carries of[ a great portion of the heat w^hicli should be 
utilized for cooking purposes, and gradually deadens the 
fire. 

How to Keep up the Fire. — As soon as the heat of the 
fire shows signs of diminishing, add a little fuel at a time, 
and often enough to prevent any sensible decrease of the 
degree of heat required for cooking. Keep the bottom of 
the fire raked clear, and never let the ash-pan get choked 
up near the grate with ashes, cinders, or refuse of any kind. 
There is no economy in allowing a fire to fail for want of 
fuel; if the fire is not replenished until the heat falls below 
the temperature necessary for cooking purposes, there is 
a direct waste of all the heat which is supplied by fresh 
fuel until the surface and ovens of the stove are again 
heated to the proper degree; whereas, if, when that heat 
has once been reached, it is sustained by the gradual ad- 
dition of a little fuel at a time, this waste is avoided, and 
much of the cook's time is saved. In kitchens where this 
fact is not understood there is a continual waste of time and 
fuel, to say nothing of the trial of patience which is the 
coo apt response to a request for the services of the cook 



THE DEMONSTRATION KITCHEN 19 

when ^* she has just mended the fire, and nothing can be 
cooked until it burns up." 

Degrees of Heat from Fuel.— The advantage which one 
kind of fuel possesses over another depends upon its local 
abundance and cheapness. We append the average tem- 
perature of a clear fire made of different combustibles, and 
a table of the degree of heat necessary for various opera- 
tions in cookery, so that some definite idea of t;he relative 
values of fuel can be reached: 

Willow Charcoal 600^ Fahr. 

Ordinary '' 700 '^ 

Hard Wood 80'0 to 900 '' 

Coal 1,000 " 

Shell-bark Hickory has the greatest heating value among 
woods; that is, the coals it produces are hotter and retain 
the heat longer than the coals from soft woods. Soft woods 
burn with a quicker flame and more intense heat than hard 
woods, and produce more flame and smoke; they are there- 
fore best to make a quick, fierce fire. Hard woods burn 
more slowly, with less heat, flame, and smoke, but produce 
harder coals, which retain the heat, and are consequently 
the best for long continued cooking operations. 

Charcoal is the residue of wood, the gaseous elements of 
which have slowly been burned away in covered pits or fur- 
naces, with a limited supply of air. Newly-made charcoal 
burns without flame, but after it has gathered moisture 
from exposure to the air it makes a slight blaze; it burns, 
easily and rapidly, and produces a greater heat in propor- 
tion to its weight than any other fuel. 

Anthracite coal is the mineral remains of ancient vegeta- 
tion which has lost all its elements except a little sulphur, 
an excess of carbon and the incombustible ash. It kindles 
slowly, but burns witli an intense and steady volume of 
heat which is exceedingly valuable for cooking purposes. 

Coke, the residue of any kind of coal from which illu- 



20 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



minating gas has been manufactured, is an inexpensive 
fuel, yielding an intense but transient heat, and is very 
well adapted for boiling and for cooking operations which 
do not require long sustained heat. 

Prof. Youmans quotes the following figures as represent- 
ing the comparative heating values of the above named 
fuels, but remarks that the actual degree of heat derived 
from them, under ordinary circumstances, will fall below 
this estimate: 1 lb. of dry, hard wood will raise 35 lbs. 
of water from the freezing to the boiling point; 1 lb. of 
coal will similarly heat 60 lbs. of water; and 1 lb. of wood 
charcoal, 73 lbs. of water. 

Cooking Temperatures, — The following table represents 
the degrees of heat to which food is subjected during its 
preparation for the table : 

Glucose, or grape sugar, melts . 
Beef tallow '' 



Mutton tallow " 

Stearin ** . 

Batter '' 

Albumen coagulates 

Scalding water . 

Starch is transformed to sugar 

Water simmers (after boiling) 

Milk boils . . . . 

Water boils 

Moderate oven for sponge cake 

" rice pudding 

Baking heat for ordinary cakes 

" biscuits 

'^ macaroni 

" meat . 

First baking heat for bread 
After five minutes moderate to 
Baking heat for pies 



80^ Fahr. 
100 
106 
111 
135 
145 
150 
160 
180 
199 
212 
220 
220 
240 
240 
240 
240 
280 
240 
280 



THE DEMONSTRATION KITCHEN. 



Baking heat for puff paste . 
Frying temperature, ranging up 
Smoking hot fat , 
Thick fish Filets, fry at 
Croquettes " 

Saratoga potatoes ** 
Fritters 

Rissoles " 

Kromeskies " 

Wliitebait " 

Lard boils . 
Oil ** 

Heat of open roasting fire 
" broiling fire 



300^ Fahr. 

345 

345 

380 

385 

385 

385 

385 

385 

400 

565 

600 
1000 
1000 



Best Material for Oookmg Utensils— There can be no 
question of the superiority of copper cooking utensils over 
those composed of any other metal, providing they are 
used with care. Their first cost is about double that of 
those made of iron, and considerably greater than that of 
tin, but they endure exposure to heat much better, retain 
it longer, and wear a greater length of time; even when 
they are worn quite thin, which would not happen in a 
lifetime with ordinary care, they can be sold as old cop- 
per. Copper is a better conductor of heat than either iron 
or tin, and consequently cooking in copper utensils can be 
done with less fire than when other metal vessels are used. 
The inside of all copper vessels used over the fire should 
be coated with tin, in order to prevent the formation of 
the oxide of copper, which, combining with carbonic acid, 
forms the poisonous carbonate of copper, indicated by the 
appearance of a greenish color on the surface of the metal. 
Acids, oils and salt, all tend to produce injurious com- 
pounds when copper is long exposed to their action; 
therefore, articles of food should never be allowed to 
stand in them, and they should be thoroughly cleaned 



23 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



every time they are used. Copper melts at about 1996° 
Fahr. 

Tin vessels are liable to be affected by any of these sub- 
stances, although to a less extent; and for that reason food 
should not be kept in them for any length of time. On 
the other hand, the quantity of tin collected by food dur- 
ing its general preparation is not suflBcient to produce any 
very injurious effect upon the health. The danger in 
using tin vessels is to be apprehended from the possible 
contamination of the metal by the presence of such foreign 
substances as copper, lead, and arsenic, which may form de- 
leterious compounds, with some vegetable salts and acids. 
However, if they are kept clean and free from rust they 
answer ordinary kitchen requirements. Tin melts at about 
442^ Fahr. 

Iron is employed in the manufacture of kitchen utensils 
to a greater extent than any other metal; it is cheap and 
readily obtained, and seems to meet the approbation of 
many housekeepers. When the inside of iron cooking 
utensils is coated Avith tin, or with a layer of enamel, there 
is no inconvenience to be feared from rust, and they are 
easily cleaned. Brightly polished tin or metal saucepans 
take longer to heat than tarnished ones, but they retain 
the heat better. Except in the case of steam, color affects 
the heating qualities of a cooking utensil; the temperature 
of a black one, which absorbs the rays of luminous heat, 
will be raised more quickly than that of a bright one. 

The housekeeper must be guided in the selection of her 
kitchen outfit by convenience and expediency; we have 
given the above facts as explanatory of the merits of the 
different metals; but wc have used all kinds successfully in 
the New York School of Cookery. We append our own 
methods of cleaning the different kinds. 

How to Clean Coppers. — ( l-)li the utensils are very much 
tarnished, let them stand fifteen minutes in scalding hot 



THE DEMONSTRATION KITCHEN. 23 

water with a tablespoonfiil of soda dissolved in each gal- 
lon of water; then sconr the inside with fine sand and soap 
well rubbed on with the hand, or with a soft rag, until 
perfectly clean and bright; wash, and dry with a soft, dry 
cloth; clean the outside in the same way, and wash and 
dry with a clean cloth. (2.) Never use vinegar or lemon- 
juice unless to remove spots which can not be scoured off 
as directed above; if acid is used, mix it with salt, apply 
it quickly, and thoroughly wash it off at once; this care will 
serve to prevent the possible collection of verdigris upon 
the copper, but the utensils tarnish much more quickly 
when they are cleaned with acid than when any other 
method is employed. Salt is sometimes substituted for 
sand in the above named process. (3.) One of the best chefs 
belonging to the N. Y. School of Cookery always had the 
coppers cleaned with the following mixture, rubbed on 
with the hand, and then washed off with clean, cold water, 
imd employed a soft towel to dry them thoroughly; 
the mixture consisted of equal j)arts of salt, fine sand, 
and flour, made into a thick paste with milk or butter- 
milk. 

How to Clean Iron Ware.— (l-) Wash thoroughly inside 
and out with hot water, soap, and soda; rinse and wipe 
thoroughly with a clean towel, and finish drying near the 
fire. If the inside is coated with the remains of food, put 
the pot over the fire, fill it with hot water, dissolve a table- 
spoonful of soda in it, and let the water boil for fifteen 
minutes; this will soften the dirt so that it can be scoured 
off with sand and soap. (2.) When about to use a fish 
kettle, set it over the fire empty to heat; if it is not perfect- 
ly clean, an odor will be perceptible; in that case clean it 
as directed above before using it. (3.) If you are obliged 
to use the same gridiron for broiling steak that has been 
used for fish, wash it thoroughly with hot water, soap, and 
soda, rinse it in clean, hot water, heat it over the fire, rub 



24 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



it thoroughly with clean brown paper, and then with an 
onion cut in two pieces. 
How to Clean Enamelled Ware.— P^^t it over the fire, 

filled with hot water containing a tablespoon ful of soda to 
every gallon of water, and let it boil fifteen minutes; then 
if it is not perfectly clean, scour it with a little soap and 
fine sand, wash it well, and dry it with a clean cloth. 

How to Clean Tin Ware.— (l-) Scour till bright with 
fine sand or powdered and sifted brickdust, moistened 
with water and rubbed on with chamois skin; polish with 
dry whiting and chamois skin. (2.) If the tin is very 
much tarnished, boil it in hot water with soda before scour- 
ing. If no whiting is at hand dry flour maybe substituted 
for it. 

How to Clean Japanned Ware.— Wash it with a sponge 
dipped in clean, cold water, wipe it dry and polish it with 
dry flour well rubbed on with a soft cloth. 

How to Clean Plated Ware.— (1-) Put it in hot soda 
water for five minutes, then wipe it on a clean, dry cloth, 
and polish it with chamois skin. (2.) If it is much tarnished 
use a little very fine whiting or silver powder in polishing it, 
taking care to brush it all out of the crevices and chased 
work on the plate. 

How to Clean Steel Knives.— ^^^^ them on a leather- 
covered board with a little finely-powdered brickdust, and 
wipe them thoroughly on a clean, dry towel. Bear 
the fact in mind that knives are hardened at a temperature 
of from 380^ Fahr. to 550^^ Fahr. ; and consequently will 
lose their temper if exposed to a greater degree of heat; 
the temperature of hot fat ranges from 340° Fahr. to 600*^ 
Fahr., so if you put a knife into hot fat it will be ruined. 

How to Clean Sieves and Jelly-bags.— (1- ) Put the sieves 
into hot water containing a little soda or borax, but no 
soap; scrub them well with a clean brush, rinse them 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 25 

thoroughly in plenty of boiling water, and shake them dry. 
(3.) Never use soap for washing jelly-bags; wash them in 
as hot, clean water as the hands can endure, rinse them in 
boiling water, and wring them as dry as possible; then dr^ 
them where no dust will reach them, and keep them in a 
clean place. 

General Kitchen Cleanliness.— (l.) Never cease to exer- 
cise the greatest care in keeping the kitchen clean; it is 
the best place in the house to recall to mind the proverb 
that ^' Cleanliness is next to Godliness.'' (2.) After atten- 
tion has been given to all the directions enumerated in this 
chapter, remember to watch the sinks and. drains; flush 
them several times a day with boiling water. (3.) Take 
care that no scraps of meat or parings of vegetables ac- 
cumulate in them to attract vermin, or choke the traps. 
(4.) Never throw soapsuds into the sink without after- 
wards flushing it with clean hot water. (5.) Eun hot 
water containing a little chloride of lime into the drains 
at least once a day in summer, and once in every two or 
three days in winter, to counteract all unpleasant and un- 
healthy odors. 

Remember that the best cook always has the cleanest 
kitchen. 



CHAPTER 11. 

FIRST LESSOR OF THE FIRST ARTISAK COURSE. 

This course of lessons is designed for the instruction of 
the young daughters of working people in the preparation 
of those simple dishes which add variety to their daily fare 
without increasing its cost. The system of teaching in the 
New York Cooking School includes marketing with the 
pupils for the materials to be used during the lesson, or al- 
lowing them to purchase the articles themselves, and then 
returning them the price when they bring the ingredients 



26 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



to the school. This gives them a practical knowledge of 
the prices and qualities of different articles of food whicli 
they could not acquire in any other way. 

Two or three girls are chosen for their attention and 
quickness, and allowed to assist the demonstrator in pre- 
paring the dishes to be cooked during the lesson; the choice 
is so fixed during the series of lessons as to enable every 
deservino' scholar to eneao^e in the actual work of making 
the dishes; this serves not only to excite an excellent spirit 
of emulation amoiig the members of tlie class, but also to 
develop the faculty of expression to such an extent as to 
enable the young assistants to gradually take rank as pupil 
teachers, and to instruct their comrades during practice 
hours in the kitchen, or at their own homes. 

This course of instruction includes the setting of the 
table, bringing in the dinner, waiting ujion the table, 
clearing away the soiled dishes after the conclusion of the 
meal, washing the dishes and regulating the dining-room. 
After the dishes composing the first lesson are prepared 
and placed upon the stove to cook, the scholars are shown 
by the teacher how to go throngh these various operations, 
the oldest girl working with the teacher. At the second 
lesson another girl is selected to perform the entire routine, 
without assistance from the teacher; and when her work is 
done it is criticised by the other pupils, and corrected to 
correspond with instructions imparted during the first 
lesson. A different girl is chosen at every lesson, until all 
the ])upils have participated in the dining-room practice in 
turn; but after the first lesson the task of instruction is 
vested in the criticism of the class, the teacher acting only 
as an umpire in case of any disputed question. The result 
of these lessons is highly satisfactory, and the pupils prac- 
tice them at home to the great improvement of their tables 
and table manners. 

How to Choose Soup Materials.— The reasons why soup 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 27 

is an economical and healthy article of food will be fonnd 
in the appendix. The materials for soup should be fresh 
vegetables and untainted meat; but they may both be the 
cheapest of their kind; a very little meat, or a few bones, 
will serve as the basis of excellent soup, and it is often 
made of vegetables alone. 

In the previous chapter we have spoken of making a col- 
lection of seasonings; if the herbs cannot be raised at home, 
they may be bought, a few cents' worth at a time, until a 
good variety is accumulated. 

Economical soup may be made from the remains of 
cooked food instead of newly-bought materials, care being 
taken to compound and season the soup properly. 

VEGETABLE PORRIDGE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 carrot -- 1 cent. 

1 turnip - - - 1 " 

1 oz. celery stalks - - - - - - 1 " 

3^ oz. parsley ------- 1" 

Seasonings -- - - - - - -1" 

1 qt. tomatoes ^ ----- - 5 cents. 

1^ lb. rice -------- 2 " 

Total ----- 12 cents. 

(1.) Pare the carrot, turnip and tomatoes. (2.) Cut 
them into dice a quarter of an inch square. (3.) Cut the 
celery stalks in the same way. (4.) Chop the parsley fine. 
(5.) Pick over the rice, and wash it by putting it in a col- 
ander, and running water through it. (6.) Put all these 
ingredients into tlie soup kettle with four quarts of cold 
water, one tablespoonful of salt, half a level saltspoonful 
of pepper, and one sprig eacli of thyme and marjoram tied 
up with three bay leav*es, and six whole cloves. (7.) Put 
the kettle over the fire, bring it slowly up to a boil, and 
then simmer it gently about two iiours, until the vegeta- 
bles are quite tender. (8.) After adding enough boiling 
water to increase the quantity to four quarts, see if the 



28 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK, 



seasoning suits the taste ; if it does not, alter it, and the 
soup will be ready to serve. 

A 
PEA SOUP WITH CROUTONS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 carrot 1 cent. 

1 onion ___----- 1" 

Bread - - 1 •' 

1 oz. suet and seasonings - - - - 1 " 

1 pt. dried peas -------5 cents. 

Drippings -------- 3" 

Total ----- 11 cents. 

(1.) Peel and slice the onion, fry it brown in the soup- 
kettle with the suet chopped fine. (2.) Pick over the peas, 
put them into the colander and wash them by running cold 
water through them. (3.) Add them to the onion with 
four quarts of cold water, a tablespoonful of salt, half a 
level saltspoonful of pepper, and the carrot peeled and 
sliced. (4.) Set the kettle over the fire, and let the 
soup simmer slowly for about two hours, or until the peas 
are soft. (5.) A wineglassful of cold water should be add- 
ed every twenty minutes to check the boiling and help soft- 
en the peas. (6.) Cut two slices of stale bread in half inch 
dice, fry them in the two ounces of dripping, which must 
be smoking hot before the bread is put into them; as soon as 
tlie bread is brown take it up with a skimmer, lay it on 
brown paper for a minute to absorb all the grease from it, 
and then put it into the bottom of the soup tureen. (7.) 
When the peas are tender pass the soup through the sieve 
with the potato masher and return it with the pot to lieat, 
adding enough boiling water to make four quarts. (8.) 
If the soup shows any sign of settling, mix together a table- 
spoonful each of butter and flour by rubbing them togeth- 
er dry until they form a smooth paste, and then stir this 
into the soup; it will hold the peas in suspension. (9.) See 
if the seasoning is right, and then serve the soup. 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 2P 

SCOTCH BROTH WITHOUT MEAT. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 carrot -__---__i cent 
1 turnip -------- 1" 

1 onion and seasonings - - - - - 1 " 

1 oz. celery stalks ------ 1" 

Bread 1 " 

Drippings ------- 2 cents 

4 oz. oatmeal -------2" 

4 oz. pearl barley - - - - - - 3 " 

Total 12 cents 

(1.) Steep the barley over night in cold water, and rinse 
it well in clean water before using it. (2») Pare the tur- 
nip, carrot and onion, and cut them in quarter inch dice. 
(3.) Cut the celery in small bits. (4.) Put all these in- 
gredients into the soup kettle with four quarts of boiling 
water, a level tablespoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoon- 
ful of pepper, and as much cayenne as can be taken up on 
the point of a small penknife blade. (5.) Set the kettle 
over the fire, and let it simmer slowly for one hour. (6.) 
Mix the oatmeal to a smooth batter with cold water; add 
it to the soup and let it simmer another hour. (7.) Cut 
the bread in quarter inch dice, and fry them brown in the 
drippings, which must be made smoking hot before the 
bread is put into them; when they are brown, t*ke them 
up with the skimmer^ lay them for a minute on brown pa- 
per to free them from grease, and then put them into the 
soup tureen. (8.) When the soup is done, add boiling 
water enough to make two quarts, see that it is properly 
seasoned, pour it into the soup tureen, and serve it. 

BEEF AND VEGETABLE SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 carrot -------- i cent. 

1 turnip --------1" 

1 onion and seasonings - - - - - 1 " 

1 oz. celery stalks _--_--! '< 
1 lb. soup meat ------ 6 cents. 



30 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



}4 lb. rice --------4 cents. 

1 qt. tomatoes ------- 5" 

Total - - - - 19 cents. 
(1.) Break any bones on hand, either raw or cooked, and 
put them into the bottom of the soup kettle; cut the meat 
in half-inch dice, put it on the bones, add four quarts 
of cold water, set the kettle over the fire, and let it come 
slowly to a boil. (2.) Skim it carefully and constantly until 
clear. (3.) Meantime wash the rice by putting it into a 
colander, and running plenty of cold water througli it; 
(4.) pare the vegetables, and cut them in quarter inch dice; 
cut the celery in small bits. (5.) When the soup is 
skimmed clear, add these ingredients to it, season it with a 
level tablespoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pep- 
per, and a bouquet made as directed in Chapter I. (6.) 
Let it simmer steadily for two hours; add enough boiling 
water to make four quarts, see that the seasoning is proper, 
and serve it in the soup tureen, being careful to remove all 
the bones as the soup is taken up= 

Note. — (1.) In preparing meat for soup do not wash it, 
because that process will carry olf more or less of its nutri- 
ment; if it is soiled in anyway, wipe it with a clean, damp 
cloth, or cut away the injured portion. (2.) Pare the 
vegetables very thin, cut them in even-sized pieces, and let 
them lay in cold water if they are prepared before wanted 
for use. (3.) Season lightly; it is very easy to add more 
seasoning, but impossible to remove it; (4.) it may, how- 
eyer, be overpowered by stronger flavors; for instance, a 
little Worcestershire sauce, or a tablespoonful of vinegar 
and a lump of sugar, will generally modify the flavor of a 
dish too highly salted. 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 31 



CHAPTER III. 

SECOITD LESSON" OF THE FIRST ARTISAN^ COURSE. 

How to Choose Fish. — "Tlie nutritive and economic val- 
ne of fish is given in the appendix; it is, therefore, sufiB- 
cient to state here that all fish should be chosen by their 
firm flesh, rigid fins, clear, full eyes, and ruddy gills; if the 
flesh is soft and flabby, the fins limp, the eyes dull and 
sunken and the gills pale, the fish is stale and unfit for 
food. 

Oysters, clams, scollops and mussels should be used as 
soon as they are taken from the shell, because their flavor 
is impaired by exposure to the air; when they are fresh 
and good their shells are tightly closed. 

Lobsters, crabs and cray-fish should al\va3^s be bought 
alive; they should be chosen for their heaviness in propor- 
tion to their size, the bright colors of their shells, and 
their lively movements; dull-looking, half-dead shell-fish 
are not fit to eat; shell-fish are cooked by putting them 
head first into a large pot full of boiling water, containing a 
handful of salt; this contact with the boiling water kills 
them instantly; they are done in from ten to twenty min- 
utes, as soon as their shells turn a bright red color. 

BOILED HADDOCK WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

A 3 lb. haddock ------ 15 cents 

1 oz. butter -------- 2 " 

}^ " parsley _--_--_ i cent 
Flour and seasonings ------1" 

Total- - - - 19 cents 

(1.) As soon as the fish comes from market wash it 

thoroughly, and lay it in a large pan containing plenty of 

cold water and a handful of s;ilt. (2.) When it is time to 

cook it, put it into the fish kettle with cold water enough 



33 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

to cover it, a gill of vinegMr, a tablespoonfnl of salt, the 
root of the parsley, six cloves, and one sprig each of thyme 
and marjoram. (3.) Set the kettle over the fire and 
bring it to a boil. (4.) By the time the kettle boils the 
fish is usually done, bnt it may be tested by pulling out a 
fin; if the fin comes out easily, and the flesh of the fish 
looks clear white, it is done, (5.) Lift the kettle off the 
fire, and let the fish stand in the water until wanted for 
nse. (6.) Make the sauce by stirring together over the 
fire one ounce, or one tablespoonful each of butter and flour 
until they bubble. (7.) Then slowly stir in half a pint of 
boiling water, or a little more if the flour thickens the 
sauce too miich, and stir it constantly until it boils up all 
over, and clings to the spoon a little when it is lifted from 
the sauce. (8.) Move the sauce to the side of the fire, 
chop the parsley fine, and add it to the sauce with a salt- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of 
pepper and grated nutmeg; the sauce will then be ready 
to nse. (9.) To serve the fish, take it up carefully with- 
out breaking, remove the skin by scraping it gently, so as 
to avoid tearing the fish, pour the sauce over it, and it will 
be ready for the table. 

FRIED FILETS OF FLOUNDER. 

INGBEDIENTS. 

1 eg,^ ___-__-- -1 cent. 
A 3 lb. flounder ------ 12 cents. 

Bread, fat for frying and seasonings - - 7 " 

Total 20 cents. 

Cut the filets as follows. (1.) Wash the flounder, wipe it 
on a clean cloth, and lay it flat on the table; with a shai-p, 
thin-bladed knife, cut down to the bone in the center of 
the fish, following the course of the back bone from the 
head to the tail. (2.) Turn the edge of the knife towards 
the outer fin, insert the point in the cut already made, lay 



FIBST ARTISAN COURSE. 33 

the blade flat against the bone, and cut outwards towards 
the fin, keeping the knife pressed close against the bone, 
being careful not to mangle the fish, and taking off the 
whole side-piece, or filet, entire. (3.) Cut off all the four 
side pieces of the fish in the same way, and lay them, skin 
down flat upon the table, with the ends towards the de- 
monstrator; (4.) place the tips of the fingers of the left 
hand firmly upon the end of one of the filets, lay the point 
of the knife on the filet with the back against the fingers, 
press the blade down flat, cutting between the skin and the 
filet, and away from the end held down by the fingery; if 
the end is held firmly, the knife laid flat, and the cut made 
■with a steady hand, the whole filet can be cut from the 
skin without mangling it; skin all the filets in this way, 
lay them on a dish, and wash and dry the table. (5.) 
Bread each filet as follows: spread upon the table some 
bread crumbs, which have been dried in the oven, rolled 
fine, and sifted; beat up one egg with a tablespoonful of 
cold water; lay the filet upon the crumbs, press it gently, 
turn it over, press it again, dip it into the beaten egg and 
quickly remove it, so that the crumbs will not be washed 
off; lay it again in the crumbs, pressing it into a neat 
shape with a knife; bread all the filets in this way, and lay 
them on a clean dish. (6.) Heat enough fat to cover 
three or tour filets, until it begins to smoke; drop the filets 
into it, one at a time, fry them light brown, take them up 
with a skimmer, and lay them for one minute on brown 
paper, to free them from grease. (7.) Arrange them neatly 
on a dish with a few parsley leaves around them, and 
serve them. 

BROILED FILETS WITH MAItRE D' HOTEL BUTTER, 

INGREDIENTS. 

A 2 lb. flounder - - - - - 12 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

1 egg - - - - - - 1 cent. 



S4 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

Lemon juice ------- 1 cent. 

Seasonings, parsley and bread crumbs - - 1 " 

Total ----- 17 cents. 

(1.) Prepare the ^Ze/s as directed in the previous receipt, 
but do not fry them. (2.) Make the inaitre cT hotel but- 
ter by chopping fine a tablespoouful of parsle}^, and mix- 
ing it thoroughly with tlie butter, a teasj^oonful of lemon 
juice, and a very little salt iind pepper. (3.) Broil the 
filets on an oiled gridiron, over a moderate fire; lay them 
on a hot dish, spread the butter over them, and serve them 
at once. The dish may be garnished "with a few slices of 
lemon. 

GRILLED FISH BONES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 tablespoonful salad oil - - - - - 1 cent. 
1 " vinegar ----- 1 " 

1 " mustard, pepper and salt - 1 '* 

Total ----- 3 cents. 
(1.) Trim the ragged edges from the bones of the 
flounders used in making tho filets. (2.) Mix the oil, vin- 
egar and mustard together, seasoning them well with 
pepper and salt; and spread this paste over the bones with 
a knife. (3.) Broil the bones on an oiled gridiron, and 
serve them on a hot dish, with a few sprigs of parsley, or 
slices of lemon laid around them. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THIRD LESSON" OF THE FIRST ARTISAK COURSE. 

How to Choose Eggs. — Eggs are so nutritious, and at 
some seasons of the year so abundant and cheap, that 
directions for choosing and keeping them, and a variety of 
methods for cooking them are always welcome. New laid 
eggs have a pearly, semi-transparent shell, a little rough to 
the touch, and are heavy in proportion to their size; as they 



FIBST ARTISAN COURSE. 



grow stale they decrease m weight, because some of their 
moisture evaporates from exposure to tlie air; the shells 
wear smooth by rubbing against each other, and their col- 
or clouds a little. 

How to Keep Eggs.— (l-) P^^ck them in salt or saw- 
dust while they are quite fresh, and close the vessel in 
which they are packed to keep out tlie air and prevent 
evaporation. (2.) Or dip them in melted suet or a thick 
solution of gum arabic, taking care that the shells are en- 
tirely covered with it; dry them, and then dip them in it 
tlie second time; then pack them as above, and keep them 

in a drv place. 

BOILED EGGS. 

6 eggs - --6 cents. 

(1.) Place a saucepan half fall of water over the fire; as 
soon as it boils, put the eggs into it, using a large spoon 
to drop them gently into the water; if they are wanted 
soft, take them up in three minutes, by the clock; if want- 
ed medium hard, let them cook four minutes; if Avanted 
hard, let them cook ten minutes. (2.) Place the eggs in a 
bowl, pour some warm water over them, and let them stand 
one minute; then drain them, cover them with boiling 
water, and let them stand ten minutes; they will then be 
cooked medium rare, evenly all the way through, and can 
be easily digested. Dacks' eggs cook in less time than 
hens' eggs. 

POACHED EGGS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 eggs ---------6 cents. 

Bread and butter 3 '* 

Salt and vinegar - - - - - - 1 " 

Total ----- -^ 9 cents. 

(1.) Break the eggs, each one in a saucer by itself, so 
tliat a chance stale one may not spoil the rest. (2.) Put a 
shallow pan over the fire, half fill it with water^ add to 



36 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



it a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 
and let it get scalding hot. (3.) Drop the eggs into the 
water, and let them stand five minutes without boiling. 
(4.) Meantime make six small slices of buttered toast and 
lay them on a dish. (5.) Take up the eggs one by one on 
a skimmer, trim each one evenly and slip it off upon a slice 
of toast; put a few grains of salt and pepper in the center 
of each Qgg and serve them hot. 

FRIED EGGS. 

INGEEDIENTS. 

6 eggs --- 6 cents. 

Fat and seasonings - - - - - -4" 

Total ----- 10 cents. 
(1.) Put some fat in a frying-pan over the fire to get 
smoking hot. (2. ) Break the eggs, each one in a separate 
saucer; as soon as the fat begins to smoke, slip the eggs into 
it without breaking, and fry them brown; take them up 
with a skimmer, lay them for one minute on some brown 
paper to free them from grease, and then arrange them 
neatly on a dish for serving. 

OMELETTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 eggs 8 cents. 

Butter, pepper and salt - • - - - 1 " 

Total ------ 4 cents. 

(1.) Break the eggs, putting the whites in one dish and 
the yolks in another. (2.) Add quarter of a saltspoonful 
of salt and a dash of pepper to the yolks, and beat them 
half a minute. (3.) Put a bit of butter as large as a chest- 
nut into a clean omelette pan, and set it over the fire to 
heat. (4.) Beat the whites to a stiff froth, mix the yolks 
gently into it, and pnt the omelette into the pan. (5.) 
Stir the omelette with a fork, running it close to the bot- 
tom of the pan, and piling the omelette in a heap in the 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 37 

center. (6.) When it is done enough, pile it on one side 
of the pan, hold a hot dish close to it, and toss the ome- 
lette out on it. Serve it immediately. 

An omelette of three eggs is large enough for two per- 
sons; if more are to be served, a second omelette of three 
eggs may be made; a larger one can not be made so light, 
or cooked so well. 

PARSLEY OMELETTE, 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 eggs ---------S cents. 

Parsley, butter, pepper and salt - - - - 2 " 

Total - - - - - • - 5 cents. 
Prepare the omelette as directed in the last receipt, mix- 
ing with it one tablespoonful of chopped parsley; cook, 
and serve it in the same way. 

SWEET OMELETTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 egg3 ------- --3 cents. 

Butter and sugar -- - - - - -1 cent. 

Total ----- 4 cents. 
(1.) Prepare the eggs as directed for plain omelette, sub- 
stituting one teaspoonf ul of powdered sugar for the salt and 
pepper, and cooking in the same way. (2.) While the 
omelette is being cooked, rub the poker clean and heat it 
red hot. (3.) After the omelette has been turned out on 
the dish dust it thickly with powdered sugar, and score the 
top in diamonds with the red hot poker, taking care only 
to brown, and not to burn the sugar black. Serve it hot. 



CHAPTER V. 

rOURTH LESSOl^ OF THE FIRST ARTISAl^" COURSE. 

Baker's and Homemade Bread. — Good homemade bread 
is healthier and cheaper than baker's bread, and the task 



38 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



of making it is not beyond the skill of a bright, strong 

girl; the greatest difficnlty is in learning how to bake it 

properly. If the pupils are too young to understand this, 

the lesson may begin with the making of biscuit; and the 

practice in bread may be deferred until later in the course 

of instruction. 

YEAST. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 oz. hops -------- 5 cents. 

}4, lb. brown sugar - - - - - - 5 " 

1^ " flour -------- 4 " 

3 " potatoes ------- 5 " 

Salt --------- 1 cent. 

Total 20 cents. 

(1.) Boil the hops in four quarts of water for half an 
hour, strain the liquor, and let it stand until it is only 
lukewarm. (2.) Dissolve in it the sugar and two table- 
spoonfuls of salt. (3.) Add this mixture by degrees to the 
flour, beating it quite smooth. (4.) Put it in an earthen 
jar or bowl, and let it stand in a warm place four days to 
ferment. (5.) On the third day, boil, peel and mash the 
potatoes, stir them into the yeast, and let it stand another 
day. (6.) Tlie next day strain and bottle it, and keep it 
in a cool place. 

HOMEMADE BREAD, (About 8 lbs.) 

i::gredients. 
7 lbs. flour ------- 28 cents. 

Salt, sugar, yeast ------ l cent. 

29 cents. 
(1.) Put seven pounds of flour into a deep pan, and make 
a hollow in the center; into this put one quart of lukewarm 
water, one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
and half a gill of yeast; have ready three pints more of 
warm Avater, and use as much of it as is necessary to make 
a rather soft dough, mixing and kneading it well with both 
hands. (2.) When it is smooth and shining, strew a little 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 39 



flour upon it, lay a large towel over it folded, and set it in 

a warm place by the fire for four or five hours to rise. 

The remainder of the process must be deferred until the 

next lesson. 

BISCUIT. 

i::aitEDiENT3. 
1 lb. flour - - - ... 4 cents. 

X " lard - - - 3 " 

1 pint milk, (or cold water) - - - - 4 " 

Baking powder and salt _.---! cent. 

Total 13 cents. 

(1.) Sift the flour with one tablespoonful of baking 
powder, and one teaspoonful of salt. (2.) Rub the lard 
quickly into the flour in small flakes. (3.) Dust a little 
flour over the baking pan and pastry-board. (4.) Pour the 
milk into the flour and lard, mix them rapidly together, 
turn the dough out on the pastry board, roll it out an 
inch thick, cut out the biscuit as fast as possible, put them 
on the baking pan, and set the pan in a quick oven. (5.) 
All this must be done very quickly, in order to get the 
biscuit into the oven before the carbonic acid gas, which 
results from the mixture of the baking powder and milk, 
has time to escape; tlic dough is made light by this gas 
forcing its way up through it, and if the biscuit are not 
baked until it has escaped they will be heavy. (6.) When 
the biscuit are half done— in about ten minutes — open 
tlie oven door, brush the tops with a little milk, and then 
finish baking them. (7.) Water maybe substituted for 
milk in making biscuit. 

MILK ROLLS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. flojiT 4 cents. 

X"lard -------- 3 " 

1 pt. milk ------ . 4 " 

Baking powder and salt - - - - 1 cent. 

Total 12 cents. 



40 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Proceed as directed for biscuit until the dougli is cut 
out. (2. ) Brush the top of each round of dough with 
melted lard. (3.) Take hold of each round by the sides, 
stretch it out, then fold one half the way over, and press 
it gently in place; finish and bake according to the direc- 
tions for biscuit. 

BREAKFAST TWIST. 

INGBEDIENTS. 

1 lb. flour -- 4 cents. 

>^ lb. lard 3 " 

1 pt. milk - - - 4 " 

Baking-powder and salt ----- 1 cent. 

Total 12 cents. 

(1.) Proceed as directed for biscuit until the dough is 
rolled out half an inch thick. (2.) Out it in strips half 
an inch wide and three inches long. (3.) Eoll them gen- 
tly under the palm of the hand to smooth them. (4.) Lay 
the ends of three strips one over the other, pinch them to- 
gether and braid them, closing the end of the braid with 
a pinch. (4.) Finish and bake them according to the di- 
rections for biscuit. 



CHAPTER VI. 

FIFTH LESSOJ^ OF THE FIEST ARTISAN" COURSE. 

How to Choose Macaroni.— Good macaroni is of a yel- 
lowish color; it does not break in cooking, and if properly 
cooked, yields nearly four times its bulk. The imported 
Italian macaroni can be bought in the Italian stores in New 
York for fifteea cents a pound. It should never be soaked 
or wet before boiling, or put to cook in cold or lukewarm 
water. If it appears soiled or dusty, it should be wiped with 
a clean dry cloth. 

How to Boil Macaroni.— Put it into boiling water, to 
every quart of which a teaspoonful of salt has been added; 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 41 

sometimes an onion is boiled with it, being peeled and put 
whole into the boiling water. Macaroni will boil tender in 
about twenty minutes; test it by pressing it between the 
fingers; if it is done it will yield easily, but should not be 
boiled too soft; as soon as it is done, drain it in a colander 
and rinse and lay it in cold water; it will keep good for 
several days if the water has a little salt added to it, and is 
changed every day. 

MACARONI, FARMER'S STYLE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 lb. macaroni - - 8 cents. 

1 oz. butter - - - - - - --2" 

Onion, flour, and seasonings - - - - 3 " 

Total - - - - - - 12 cents. 

(1.) Boil half a pound of macaroni as directed in the 
previous receipt. (2.) Meantime, stir together over the 
fire one ounce each of butter and flour until they begin to 
bubble; gi-adually add to them half a pint of boiling water, 
stirring the sauce with an egg-whip until it is smooth, and 
then season it with one teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of 
a saltspoonful each of white pepper and grated nutmeg. 
(3.) Drain the macaroni, and put it into this sauce to heat. 
(4.) Peel and slice the onion, and fry it in a very little 
drippings. (5.) Put the macaroni on a hot dish, pour the 
onion on it, and serve it. 

MACARONI WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 lb. macaroni -------8 cents. 

1 oz. butter - 2 " 

K pt. milk - - 2 " 

Flour and seasonings - - - - - 1 cent. 

Total ----- 13 cents. 

(1.) Boil half a pound of macaroni as already directed. 
(2.) Make a sauce of one ounce each of butter and flour as 
directed in the previous receipt, substituting half a pint of 



42 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



boiling milk for the boiling water. (3.) Drain the 
macaroni, heat it in the sauce, and serve in a hot dish. 

BAKED MACARONI. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 lb. maycaroni __-_-- 8 cents. 

^ " cheesG ------- 4 " 

1 oz. butter --------2" 

Bread ci-umbs and seasonings _ _ _ i cent. 

Total - - - - - 15 cents. 
(1.) Boil the macaroni as already directed. (2.) Grate 
the cheese. (3.) Put the macaroni on a gratin pan, or 
any kind of baking dish suitable to send to the table, add- 
ing the sance and cheese to it; dust over the top a few 
bread crumbs, Avhich have been dried in the oven and 
sifted, put a few bits of bntter on the top, and brown it 
quickly in a very hot oven. If the macaroni can be browned 
with a salamander, the sauce will not be dried away so much 
as when it is browned in the oven. A salamander is a 
j-ound phiic of iron attached to a long handle, the plate 
being heated red hot before using it. 

How to Mould, Prove, and Bake Bread.— (i-) After 
the bread sponge has risen over night, or sufficiently long 
in the day time, turn it out on a floured bread-board, and 
knead it for fifteen minutes, using enough flour to keep it 
from sticking to the board or hands. (2.) Put it again 
into the bread pan, and let it rise plump and full. (3.) 
Then divide it into four loaves, knead it two or three min- 
utes, put it into the baking pan, and bake it in a quick 
oven. In cold weather, the dough should be mixed in a 
warm room, and not allowed to cool while rising; if it does 
not rise well, set the pan containing it over a large vessel 
of boiling water; it is best to mix the bread at night, and 
let it rise till morning in a warm and even temperature. 
The above receipt will make about eight pounds of bread, 
and divided into four loaves, will bake in a little over an 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 43 

hour's time. (4.) To test tlie bretid while baking, run a 
larding or knitting needle into the loaf; if it comes out 
bright the bread is done; if it is tarnished, the bread is 
not sufficiently baked. 



CIIAPTEK VII. 

SIXTH LESSO?^^ OF THE FIRST ARTISAN" COURSE. 

Leguminous Vegetables. — '^l^e valuable qualities of 
these vegetables entitle thoni to careful culinary treatment, 
while their cheapness recommends them to every economi- 
cal person. The best known are peas and beans; but these 
two, excellent as they are, rank lower as nutriments than 
the less familiar lentils. A more extended reference to 
their value will be found in the appendix. 

PEAS AND BACON. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. bacon ------- 13 cents. 

1 pt. dried peas -- 5" 

Total ----- 17 cents. 

(1.) Scrape and wash the bacon, and put it into three 
quarts of cold water, over the fire. (2.) Pick over the 
peas, and put them into the pot with the bacon. (3.) Let 
them boil gently for about two hours, throwing in, every 
fifteen minutes, a wineglassf nl of cold water, to check the 
boiling and soften the peas. (4.) As soon as they are soft, 
which will be in about two hours, drain them, lay them in 
a baking-dish, season them Avith salt and pepper, put the 
bacon on them, and brown them in a rather quick oven. 
WHITE HARICOT BEANS, BORDELAISE STYLE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. Wbite Haricot beans - - - - 6 cents. 

1 oz. butter --------2" 

1 " drippings -------l cent. 

Parsley, onion, and seasonings - - - - 1 cent. 

Total ----- 10 cents. 



44 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



(1.) Pick over the bejins, put them in a cohinder, rim 
plenty of cold water over them from the faucet, put them 
into a saucepan with two quarts of cold water and tlie drip- 
pings, and set them over the fire to cook. (2.) Let them 
boil gently for about two hours, throwing in every fifteen 
minutes a wineglassful of cold water, for the reason given 
in the previous receipt. (3.) At the end of one hour add 
a level tablespoonful of salt, and quarter of a teaspoonful 
of pepper. (4.) When they are soft, but not broken, drain 
them, and put them into a frying pan with the butter, and 
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and onion. (5.) Let 
them get thoroughly hot, shaking them about to prevent 
burning, and serve them hot. 

BOILED LENTILS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. lentils ------- 10 cents. 

1 onion --------- 1 cent. 

1^ oz. butter ------- 1 " 

1 oz. drippings - - - - - - -1" 

Parsley and seasonings - - - - - 1 " 

Total - - . - - 14 cents. 

(1.) Pick over the lentils and wash them as directed in 
the previous receipt. (2.) Put them over the fire in a 
saucepan with two quarts of cold water, one onion peeled, 
but not cut, and the drippings. (3.) Let them boil gently 
until soft, about three hours, adding a wineglassful of cold 
water every fifteen minutes. (4.) At the end of one hour 
season them with a level tablespoonful of salt, and a quar- 
ter of a teaspoonful of pepper. (5.) When the lentils are 
soft drain off the water, take out the onion, if desired, add 
the butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley; see if the seasoning is palatable and then 
serve. 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 46 



FRIED LENTILS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. lentils .--- ..-lo cents. 

2 oz. drippings 2" 

Onion, parsley, and seasonings _ . - l cent. 

Total ------ 13 cents. 

(1.) Boil the lentils as directed iibove. (2.) Chop one 
ounce of onion fine. (3.) Fry it light yellow in two ounces 
of dripping. (4.) Put the lentils into the onion and drip- 
pings, with one tablespoonful of chopi)ed parsley and see 
if the seasoning is palatable. (5.) Sliake them until they 
brown a little, and then serve them hot. 

RED KIDNEY BEANS, STEWED. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. red beans -------6 cents. 

I oz. butter 2 " 

Seasonings - 1 cent. 

Total ------ 9 cents. 

(1.) Pick over the beans, wash tliem in cold water, as di- 
rected in the receipt for White Haricots, and boil them in 
a similar manner. (2.) When they are nearly done, drain 
off the water, add the butter, season them with a level 
tablespoonful of salt and a quarter of a level teaspoonful of 
pepper, let them finish cooking, and serve them hot. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE FIKST ARTISAN COURSE. 

How to Choose Potatoes. — Smooth, even, medium-sized 
potatoes are the most economical; those which are heavy 
in proportion to size will be the mealiest when cooked. 
They should be perfectly ripe before gathering, otherwise 
they will dry and shrivel, because their skins are so porous as 
to permit the evaporation of their moisture. The earliest 
varieties of potatoes to be found in the New York market 
are tiie Alpha and Early Rose; the former is an excellent 



46 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

vegetable, of medium size, with a clear skin tinged with 
red, and when cooked is white, fine-grained, and mealy; 
the Early Rose is a kidney-shaped potato, with a reddish 
skin, and white, mealy flesh. The white Peach-blow is 
one of the best winter sorts, but frequently the Chili White 
is sold instead of it; wlien cooked it is poor and soggy, 
while the Peach-blow is dry and mealy. The yellow Peach- 
blow is inferior to eitlier the white or red variety. The 
Prince Albert potato is a winter variety of inferior quality. 
The red Peach-blow is one of the best late varieties. The 
Snow-flake is an excellent winter potato; it is rather large, 
of uniform size, of firm, white flesh, and agreeable flavor; 
it will keep till the late spring in a cool, dry cellar. 

How to Keep Potatoes.— Potatoes keep best in bins or 
heaps in a dry cellar of even temperature; tliey should be 
selected for the winter's use with reference to the points 
cited in the previous paragraph, and examined occasionally 
to see that they are in good condition. In the spring, 
when they ])egin to sprout, they sliould be spread a little, 
and tlie sprouts removed as soon as they show, if it is nec- 
essary to use tliem for cooking. They are not really fit for 
food after germination begins, because the sprouts draw 
their substance from the starch cells which make the 
healthy tuber mealy. 

Potatoes lose some of their weight in cooking; peeling 
and boiling being the most extravagant way of cooking; 
baking in the skins the iiext most wasteful method, and 
boiling them in their jackets the most economical. 

BOILED POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes --------3 cents. 

Salt ---------1 cent. 

Tctal ------ 4 cents. 

A boiled potato is mealy n\ proportion to the amount of 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 4? 



starch it contains, for, in proper cooking, the starch ah- 
sorbs tlie moisture of tlie potato; the amount of starch de- 
pends, first upon the ripeness of the potato, and second, 
upon its preservation. (1.) New potatoes contain an ex- 
cess of water and but little starch, and are consequently 
watery; they should be prepared for boiling by wasliing 
tliem well with plenty of water, and laying them in cold 
water well salted for an hour before cooking. Then put 
them over the tire in plenty of well-salted boiling water, 
boil them until just tender enough to pierce easily with a 
fork, drain them, sliake them in tlie sauce-pan for one 
minute witli a tcaspoonful of salt, and serve tliem in their 
jackets. (2.) Pare some potatoes very thinly, put them 
into boiling water well salted, and boil and finish tliem as 
directed above. (3.) Potatoes which have been stored 
should be prepared for boiling by carefully washing them, 
removing the defective parts and paring off one ring around 
each; they should then be cooked (piickly in plenty of boil- 
ing water, well salted, until tender enough to pierce with 
a fork; the water should then be drained off, the potatoes 
covered with a clean towel, and the sauce-pan shaken and 
set on a brick at the back of the stove. Treated in this 
way potatoes can be kept hot and mealy for hours. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Cold boiled potatxjes - 3 cents. 

1 oz. butter --------2" 

Parsley, onion and seasonings - - - - 1 cent. 

Total ----- G cents. 

(1.) Pare and slice the potatoes. (2.) Chop one table- 
spoonful of parsley. (3.) Slice half an onion, put it into 
the frying pan with the butter, and shake it about over 
the fire until it is of a pale yellow color. (4.) Put in the 
potatoes, shake the pan to 2)revent burning, and toss the 
potatoes about to brown them slightly aiid equally, for five 



48 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

iiiiuutcs. (5.) Sprinkle ILcni witli ilio clioppcd parsley. 

(().) Season iheni with pepj)er and salt, and serve them 

liut. 

GERMAN I'OTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 (|t. j)()tat()os _----_-3 cents. 

}{ lb. wmsa^os - -3" 

So^iSollill{J;s --------1 cent. 

Total ------ 7 ctnits. 

(1.) Wash the potatoes thorou<^hly, ])nt them in the 
oven, and cook them lialf an hour. (2.) Take them up, 
cut a slice from the top of each one, scoop out the center 
of the potato with the bowl of a teaspoon; chop this i)art 
ofthepotiito very fine, mix it with the sausaire meat and 
season it ratlier hi^dily. (3.) Fill the potatoes witli this 
forcemeat, lit on each tiie slice cut from it and return them 
to the oven to finish halving. When quite tender, take 
them up on a clean napkin, jirranged neatly on a dish, and 
serve them hot. With a good, brisk oven, they will cook 
in about forty minutes; if a longer time is recjuired on ac- 
count of a j)oor oven, the potatoes will not be so good. 
Never cover baked i)otatoes, or they will absorb their own 
steam and become soggy. 

POTATO r>ALAD. 

INGIIEDIENTS. 

Cold potatoes - '^ cents. 

Oil, vinegar and seasonings - - - - " . 
1 onion 1 cent. 

Total 10 cents. 

(1.) Pare and slice some cold boiled potatoes. (2.) Tecl 
and slice thin one onion. (3.) Mix them together on a 
salad dish, pour over them the following dressing. (4.) 
Stir tog(!th(u- in a ('U|), one saltspoonful of salt, qujirter of a 
sallspoonriil of jK'j»|K'i-, one tabltispoouful of vinegar, and 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 49 

throe of oil. (5.) Dress the sfilad witli this dressing, and 
dwcoriito it with ii lew leaves of pursley, and serve. 



CHAPTER IX. 

EIGHTH LESSON OF THE FIRST AUTISAI?^ COURSE. 

How to Choose Vegetables.— All green vegetables shonld 
be very erisp, fresli, and juiey; they are best just before 
flowering, and are in prime condition for use if gathered early 
in the morning, and not afterwards exposed to the heat of 
the sun; green vegetables which have laid in the market 
stalls for any time should not be bouglit if fresh ones can 
be obtained; but if their use is nnavoidable they can be re- 
stored by sprinkling them with cold water, and laying them 
in a cool, dark place. 

Roots and tubers, such as carrots, turni})s, and potatoes, 
are good from the time of ripening until they begin to 
sprout; after that their elements are disarranged and al- 
tered by the process of germination, and they do not sup- 
ply the same kind or amount of nutriment. 'J'liey should 
be plump and even sized, with fresh, unshrivellcd skins, 
and should form the principal part of the day's provisions, 
because they are both cheap and wholesome. 

How to Keep Vegetables.— Iti summer wo have found 
that the best way to keep salads of all kinds fresli and 
crisp is to cleanse them thoroughly, and then lay them on 
the ice iji the refrigerator; they will keep for a day or two 
in this way. Other green vegetables should be kept in a 
cool, dark place; but they should never be laid in store in 
large quantities, because nuiny of their wholesome quali- 
itiesare lost with tlie evaporation of tlieir nujisture. 

Roots of all kinds should Ijc kept in dark, (/r// jdaces, 
where the tem[)eraUire does not vary, and whore neither 
light, warmth, nor nioistui-e are })rosent to invito ger- 
miiiiitiiMi or decay. The winter's store may be laid in 



50 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

without clanger of loss, if care and discrimination are taken 
in its selection. In the previous lesson special directions 
are given for the selection and care of potatoes. 

Howto Boil Green Vegetables.— (1-) Pot a large pot 
two-thirds full of water over the fire with a heaping tahle- 
spoonful of salt to every gallon of water, and let it come 
to a boil. (%.) Thoroughly cleanse the vegetables, trim 
off any decayed parts, and lay them in plenty of cold water. 
(3.) When the pot is boiling, drain the vegetables from 
the cold water, tlirow them into the boiling water, press 
them down under it with a wooden spoon, let them come 
quickly to a boil, and boil them rapidly without covering 
the pot y only until they are tender. (4.) Drain them in a 
colander, run plenty of cold water through them, and lay 
them in cold water and salt until wanted for use. 

HOT SLAW, 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 cabbag:e -------.5 cents, 

1 oz. butter .._--- 2 " 

Sugar, seasonings, vinegar and spice - - 5 " 



Total - - - - . 12 cents. 
(1.) Cleanse the cabbage thoroughly, and cut it in sliv- 
ers. (2.) Put the butter into the bottom of the sauce-pan 
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one gill of vinegar, a 
level teaspoonful of mixed spice, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
half a saltspoonf ul of pepper. (3. ) Put the cabbage on » 

these ingredients, set the saucepan over a moderate fire, \ 

and simmer slowly for about two hours, until the cabbage \ 

is tender, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. > 

BAKED 'HTRNIPS. \ 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. turnii>s - - - -- - - 3 cents. 

1 oz. butter --------2" 

Flour, bread-crumbs and seasonings • - 1 cent. 



Total - centfc. 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 51 

(1.) Pure and slice the turnips, and boil tliem as direct- 
ed for green vegetables, until tender; then drain them and 
finish as follows. (2.) Meantime make a white sauce by 
stirring together over the fire one ounce each of butter and 
flour, until tliey bubble, then gradually stirring in half a 
pint of boiling water, and seasoning with one level salt- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of pep- 
per and grated nutmeg. (3.) When the turnips are ten- 
der, lay them on a baking dish suitable to send to the ta- 
ble, pour the sauce over them, dust them over thickly 
with bread crumbs, and brown them in a quick oven. Put 
the baking dish on a clean dish and serve them. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 parsnips - 2 cents. 

Oil, flour and seasonings - - - - - 3 " 

2 eggs - 2 " 

4 oz. lard for frying ------3" 

Total 10 cents. 

(1.) Pare the parsnips, cut them in strips about two 
inches long and quarter of an inch tiiick, and boil them as 
directed for green vegetables until tender; then drain them, 
dry them on a clean cloth, and dip them in the following 
batter. 

Plain Frying Batter.— Mix quarter of a pound of flour 
with the yolks of two raw eggs, a level saltspoonful of salt, 
half a saltspoonful of pepper, quarter of a saltspoonful of 
grated nutmeg, one iablespoonful of salad oil, (which is 
used to make the batter crisp,) and one cup of water, more 
or less, as the flour will take it up; the batter should be 
stiff enough to hold the drops from the spoon in shape 
when they are let fall upon it; now beat the whites of the 
two eggs to a stiff froth, beginning slowly,and increasing the 
speed until you are beating as fast as you can; the froth 
will surely come; then stir it lightly into the batter. Dip 



52 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

the parsnips into it, lift them out with a fork, and drop 
them into plenty of smoking hot fat; fry them golden brown 
in smoking hot fat. Serve them on a neatly folded napkin 
with a few sprigs of parsley aronnd them. The fat that is 
used in frying will not cost over four cents, for yon mnst 
strain the fat and save it after you fry your fritters, to use 
for other purposes. 



CHAPTER X. 

NINTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

Cheapest Outs of Meat.— Joints of meat for roasting and 
baking, and chops and steaks for broiling, are always high- 
priced, and seldom economical, although they are prefer- 
red by many persons on account of their intense flavor. 
Where the cost of a meal materially affects the enjoyment 
with which it is eaten, the choice of the dishes composing 
it becomes an important question. Meat is desired by the 
majority of people at least once a day, and there are several 
of the cheaper cuts which can be made into very palatable 
dishes, such as Potato-pot, and the A la mode beef given in 
this chapter. 

Combination Dishes.— Since vegetables are cheap and 
plentiful at all seasons, and meat always comparatively 
dear, it is necessary for the economical housewife to know 
how to combine these two articles of food with reference to 
the appetite of her family as well as to their physical needs. 
Every one of our little pupils will grow up to be a house- 
wife some day, and meantime they can do a great deal to 
make father and mother comfortable at home. Tliey ought 
to know that a little meat, especially if it is salted or 
smoked, will make a large dish of vegetables taste nicely; 
and that enough nourishment can be found in such com- 
binations to supply all the requirements of hualtli. We 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 53 

licive cliosen Pork and Beans, and Bacon and Cabbage as 
examples of i.his kind of dishes. 

POTATO POT. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes -------3 cents. 

2 lbs. neck of beef - 13 " 

1^ lb. bacon 3 " 

Onions, flour, and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Total - - . - - 20 cents. 

(1.) Slice the bacon, cut the beef in small pieces, and put 
them over the fire in a frying pan to brown. (2.) Peel 
and slice two onions and brown them with the meat. (3,) 
Peel and quarter the potatoes and lay them in cold water. 
(4.) When the meat and onions are brown put them into a 
deep baking dish, in layers with the potatoes. (5.) Make 
a pint of gravy by adding boiling water and seasonings to 
the drippings in the frying-pan, and thickening it with an 
ounce of flour dissolved in a little cold water; pour the 
gravy over the meat and potatoes, and put them into a 
quick oven to bake. The dish will cook in about an 
hour, and should be served hot; if it is sent to the table in 
the same dish it is baked in, a clean dish must be placed 
under it. 

BEEF A LA MODE, VICTORIA STYLE. 

mGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. rump steak ------ 20 cents. 

>^ lb salt pork - 6 " 

Carrots and turnips - - - - - - 3 " 

Flour and seasonings ------ i cent. 

Total 30 cents. 

(1.) Cut the steak in pieces, one inch thick, two inches 
wide, and four inches long; lay the pieces flat on the table 
and season them with pepper, salt and powdered thyme. 
(2.) Slice the pork thin and lay a slice on each piece of 
meat. (3.) Roll up each piece compactly, and tie it with 
a cord. (4.) Put the trimmings of meat and scraps of 



54 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



pork in the bottom of a saucepan, lay the rolls on them, 
and j)ut them over the fire to brown. (5.) When the meat 
is brown, stir in a tablespoonful of flour and let it brown. 
(G.) Then add enough hot water to cover the meat, and let 
it simmer until tender, about one hour. (7.) Meantime, 
pare the vegetables, cut them in small, even dice, or olives; 
wash them, boil them until tender in boiling water and 
salt; drain them and lay them in cold water to retain their 
color. (8.) When the meat is done, lay it on a hot dish in 
an even pile, and keep it hot while the vegetables can be 
drained out of the cold water and warmed in the gravy. 
(9.) Then arrange them neatly around the meat, pour the 
gravy over the meat without slopping it around the dish, 
and serve it hot. 

PORK AND BEANS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. white beans ______ 6 cents. 

3^ lb. salt pork 6 " • 

Molasses, salt and pepper - - - - - 3 " 

Tota,l ------ 14 cents. 

(1.) Pick over the beans, jiut them on the fire in cold 
water enough to cover them, with the pork; boil them 
slowly for two hours, or until tender, but not broken, adding 
a wineglassiul of cold water every fifteen minutes, to check 
the boiling and soften the beans. (2.) Drain them, put 
them into a deep bean-pot, season them with a teaspoonful 
of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; pour over 
them two tablespoonfuls of molasses, and four of the wa- 
ter in which the beans were boiled; lay the pork on them, 
cover them tight and bake an hour in a moderate oven. 

BACON AND CABBAGE. 

INGREDIENTS. 
1 head of cabbage ------ .5 cents. 

1 lb. bacon and seasonings - - - - 12 cents. 

Total 17 cents. 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 56 

(1.) Put the bacon over the fire in a pot half full of cold 
water, and bring it slowly to a boil. (2.) Meantime, 
thoroughly cleanse a head of cabbage, cnt it in thin slices, 
and when the bacon has boiled an hour put the cabbage 
with it to boil, taking care that the water is boiling when 
the cabbage is put into it. (3.) When the bacon is done, 
and the cabbage is tender, take up the cabbage in a colan- 
der, press the water out of it, lay it on a dish, and put the 
bacon on it, and serve it hot. 



CIIArTER XL 

TENTH LESSON OF THE FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 

The Entrails of A nimalft,— Those parts of the carcass 
called the entrails, such as the haslet, kidneys, and tripe, 
and the cheap cuts, such as the head, feet, and tail, are 
much more commonly used for food in Europe than iu 
this country. The tongue, brains, and sweetbreads are 
well known here, but they are generally considered delica- 
cies, and are not often served at ordinary meals in the city; 
in the country the brains and sweetbreads are often thrown 
away. Tripe and feet are very digestible, but not very 
nourishing; the heart and lights, or lungs, are full of flesh- 
forming elements, and on account of their density of fiber, 
should be thoroughly cooked; the kidneys should be cooked 
quickly, or they will become hard and indigestible. All 
these articles, except beef-tongues and veal-sweetbreads, 
are cheap and plentiful in the vicinity of abattoirs and 
packing houses. In New York, at many retail markets 
and butcher's stores, these articles are now being kept in an- 
swer to the increasing demand for them, 

HASLET RAGot/T 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 Sheep^s haslet -------6 cents. 

1 qt potatoes ------- 3" 



66 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



% " onions ---3 cents. 

2 oz. drippings ___--_ 2" 

Seasonings, bacon and flour - - ~ - 2 *' 

Total ----- 15 cents, 

(1.) Peel and slice the onions, put them into a sauce- 
pan with the drippings, and one ounce of bacon cut in small 
dice, and fry them brown. (2.) Meantime scald the has- 
let and cut it in pieces two inches square, and let it lay in 
scalding hot water until wanted. (3.) When the onions 
are brown, mix one ounce of flour among them, drain the 
haslet, and add it to them with one gill of vinegar 
and boiling water enough to cover it. Season it with 
two teaspoonfuls of salt, quarter of a level teaspoonful of 
pepper, and a bouquet made by tying together two sprigs 
each of parsley and thyme, two bay leaves, and six whole 
cloves. Simmer it slowly two hours, sprinkle in a little 
chopped parsley and serve it hot. 

STEWED TRIPK 

INGEEDEENTS. 

2 lbs. tripe - 15 cents. 

2 oz. drippings .------2" 

2 onions and vinegar ----- 2 " 

Parsley and seasonings ----- i '* 

Total 20 cents. 

Tripe is usually dressed before it is sold, but it is well to 
cleanse it by scalding and scraping before using it; it should 
be white, thick, and fat; some persons prefer the honey- 
comb, and others tlie double tripe. (1.) Peel and slice the 
onions and fry them light brown in the drippings. (2.) 
Cut the tripe in strips half an inch wide and two inches 
long, and add it to the onions. (3.) Chop one tablespoon- 
f ul of parsley, add it to the tripe with a level tablespoon- 
f ul of salt, a saltspoonf nl of pepper, a tablesj)oonf ul of vine- 
gar, and just water enough to cover the tripe; stew it gen- 
tly for one hour. Serve it hot. 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 57 

STUFFED HEART. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 beef's heart 10 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 '* 

1 qt. potatoes -------3" 

Bread, onion and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Total - 17 cents. 

(1.) Soak two slices of stale bread in cold water until 
they are soft, and wring them dry in a clean towel. (2.) 
Peel and chop one onion and fry it light yellow with the 
butter. (3.) Add the soaked bread to it with a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, half a level saltspoonf ul of pepper, and a salt- 
sj^oonful of powdered herbs, and stir this forcemeat over 
the fire in tiie frying-pan untib it is scalding hot. Wash 
the heart in cold water, stuff it with the forcemeat, sew it 
up and lay it on a baking pan with tlie potatoes, pared and 
washed; put it in a quick oven and bake it one hour. 

BROILED KIDNEYS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. kidneys 10 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Onion, herbs and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Total 14 cents. 

(1.) Chop fine one teaspoonful each of onions, parsley 
and any green herb in season. (2.) Mix them with one 
level teaspoonful of salt, half a level saltspoonful of 
pepper, as much cayenne as can be taken up on the 
point of a small pen knife blade, and the butter; put 
them on a dish and set it where it w^ill get hot. (3.) 
Wash tlie kidneys in cold water and salt, split them, 
-take out the white centres, broil them quickly, and put 
them on the hot disii, turning them over to cover them 
equally with the seasonings. Serve them hot, Avith a few 
sprigs of parsley or slices of lemon on the dish. 



58 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER XII. 

ELEVENTH LESSOK OF THE FIEST ARTISAI^" COURSE. 

How to Cook for Invalids.— Sickness is, unhappily, 
such an every day occurrence in all families that we should 
not do our duty by even our youngest pupils if we failed to 
show them how to prepare a few delicate dishes for in- 
valids. There are five points which we wish to impress 
upon our pupils' minds in regard to diet in sickness. 

(1.) Sick persons do not require such hearty food as 
healthy people. (2.) Food for sick persons must be of 
such good quality as to aiford all the nourishment they 
need from a very small quantity. (3.) Food for sick per- 
sons must be cooked so as to enable weak digestive organs 
to assimilate, or make use of all its nourishing qualities 
without being over taxed, and, therefore, very digestible 
articles should be chosen. (4.) Sick persons should al- 
ways be reminded that if they hold their food in their 
mouths for a few minutes before swallowing it, and allow 
the saliva to mingle with it, it will be more easily digested 
than if it is eaten hastily; it would be wise for well peo- 
ple also to remember this fact. (5.) The doctor should al- 
ways prescribe the diet of a very sick person, and no addi- 
tions or alterations should be made without his knowledge. 

TOAST. 

INGBEDIENTS. 

Stale bread --------1 cent. 

Butter (the best kind) ------ 2 cents. 

Total . - . - Scents. 

The reason why Ave need stale bread to make good toast, 
is because we want it dry ; after the moisture has evaporat- 
ed from bread it is less tough and solid, and consequently 
more easily digested, and the heat of the fire more readily 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 59 

changes the bread into pure wheat farina, which is not as 
likely to sour in the stomach as fresh, moist bread. 

(1.) Cut two even slices of stale bread about half an inch 
thick, taking care to have tlieni smooth and of even size, 
because a sick person's appetite is very capricious, and the 
looks of a disli has a great influence upon it (2.) Put the 
bread on a toasting-fork and expose it to the heat of amod- 
erate fire, holding it so that it will turn golden brown all 
over, and being careful not to burn it; turn the slice and 
toast the other side in the same way. This makes dry 
toast, which should be eaten at once. (3. ). Buttered toast 
is prepared in the same way; spread very thinly .and even- 
ly with a little nice butter, and set it in the oven for five 
minutes to make it crisp, and to mingle the butter 
thoroughly with it, so that it will digest equally, and then 
serve hot. 

TOAST-WATER, 

INGREDIENTS. 

Stale bread -..-.--i cent, 
(1.) Make a slice of toast as directed in the previous re- 
ceipt, toasting it to a deep brown color, but taking care 
not to burn it. (2.) Drop it into a small pitcher contain- 
ing a pint of boiling water, cover the pitcher and let the 
toast-water cool; then strain it through a piece of fine 
muslin or flannel, and use it. (3.) If toast- water is wanted 
for immediate use, put the toast, made as above, into only 
boiling water enough to cover it; let it stand two minutes, 
strain it, and add a little cold water to it. It will then 

be readv for use. 

# " TEA. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 oz. tea 2 centa, 

1 gill milk --------1 cent. 

1 oz. sugar --------1" 

Total ------ 4 cents. 

(1.) Rinse out the teapot with boiling water, put the 



60 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

tea into it, pour half a pint of boiling water on it, and set 
the pot where it will keep hot witliout boiling, for five min- 
utes. (2.) Pour one pint and a half of boiling water into 
the pot at the end of five minntes, and use the tea at once. If ■ 
tea is boiled, tannic acid is developed in it, and it tastes 
strong and bitter, and is very, nnhealthy. 

BEEF TEA, 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 11^. lean beef 12 cents. 

(1.) Chop one ponnd of lean beef fine, lay it in one pint 
of cold water for one honr, then pnt it over the fire in the 
same water, and bring it slowly to a boil; boil from fifteen 
to thirty minutes, as time will permit, and then strain it; 
season it with a very little salt and pepper, if the doctor al- 
lows it, and use it. If there is not time to let it stand an honr, 
less time will answer, but not so well, because the longer 
the meat lays in cold water, the more of its nutriment will 
be extracted. (2.) Chop one x>ound of lean beef fine, put 
it in a covered earthen jar without water, and set it in a 
moderate oven for four hours; then strain off the liquid, 
season it slightly, if the doctor allows it, and serve it. Tliis 
preparation contains every nutritious element of the beef. 

chice:en jelly. 

INGREDIENTS. 

A 21b. fowl - - accents. 

(1.) Skin a fowl, remove all the fat, draw it carefully, 
BO as to avoid breaking the gall or intestines, cut up the 
meat, and break tlie bones by pounding. (2.) Put it into 
a saucepan Avith two quarts of cold water, bring it slowly 
to aboil, skimming it until clear; cover the saucepan tightly, 
and simmer it slowly until the chicken is reduced to a 
pulp, that is from two to four hours. (3. ) Strain the 
liquid tlirongh fine cloth or flannel until clear, and re- 
turn it to the fire to simmer until it becomes a jelly. This 
point can be decided by putting a teaspoonful of the jelly 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 61 



on a saucer and cooling it ; if it is firm the jelly is done. 
Season it very slightly, as directed by tlie doctor, and cool 
it in cups. It may be eaten cold, or warmed a little. 

PANADA. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Bread -----_-.. 2 cents. 

1 oz, sugar 1 cent. 

Seasonings --------i" 

Total ----- 4 cents. 

(1.) Put a pint of water over the fire to boil, with an 
ounce of loaf sugar, and an inch of stick cinnamon, or the 
yellow rind of half a lemon, if the doctor allows the use 
of either. (2.) Crumb two slices of stale bread, put it into 
the water when it boils, and let it boil as fast as possible 
until it begins to thicken; then take it up, and use it 
either hot or cold. 

BARLEY WATER. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 OZ. pearl barley 2 cents. 

Thorouglily wash two ounces of pearl barley, to remove 

any musty or bad flavor, put it over the fire in two quarts 
of cold water, and boil it until it is reduced to one quart; 
then strain and cool it; a little sugar may be used with it, 
if the doctor allows it. 

APPLE WATER. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 apples 3 cents. 

1 oz. sugar and lemon rind 1 cent. 

Total 4 cents. 

Pare, core, and slice thin three spicy, juicy apples, put 
them in a pitcher with the sugar, and the yellow rind of half 
a lemon; pour one pint of boiling water over them, cover 
the pitcher and let the water cool; then strain and use it as 
a beverage, when allowed by the doctor. 



63 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

TWELFTH LESSOJS^ OF THE FIRST ARTISAN^ COURSE. 

Nutritive Value of Pies and Puddings.— All little girls 
are very fond of pies and puddings, and they sometimes 
persuade their mothers to make sucli dishes when they 
cannot well be afforded. Because they do like such things 
we will show them how to make some very nice and cheap 
dishes of this kind, but they must not forget that greasy 
pics and rich cakes are very unhealthy, while good, substan- 
tial puddings are both wholesome and economical. 
SWISS PUDDING WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3^ lb. flour 2 cents. 

6 oz. granulated sugar - 4 " 

3 " butter - - ... - . - . 6 " 
1 pt. milk -----..-4" 
1 egg, baking powder, and flavoring - - 4 cents. 

Total ----- 20 cents. 

Sift together half a pound of flour, one heaping tea- 
spoonful of baking powder, and one of salt; rub together 
four ounces of granulated sugar and two ounces of butter, 
and when they are well mixed, so as to be granular but not 
creamy, add the flour gradually nntil all is nsed; make a 
hollow in the middle of the flour, put into it one Qgg, half 
a teaspoonful of lemon flavoring, and half a pint of milk; 
mix to a smooth paste, put into a well buttered and floured 
mould, and set this into a large pot with boiling water 
enough to come two-thirds up the side of the monld; steam 
the pudding throe-quarters of an hour, or nntil a broom 
spliut can be run into it without fiuding the pudding stick- 
ing to the splint. Turn the pudding out of the mould, and 
send it to the table with the following sauce. 

Cream Sauce. — Stir together over the fire one ounce each 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 63 



of flour and butter; as soon as they arc smooth, pour into 
them half a pint of boiling milk, add two ounces of sugar 
and half a teaspoonful of lemon flavoring, and use with the 
pudding as soon as it boils up. This makes a very nice 
pudding for the Sunday dinner. 

CREAM RICE PUDDING. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 oz. rice 3 cents. 

3 " sugar ------ __2** 

IX qts. milk -------13" 

Flavoring 1 cent. 

Total - 18 cents. 

Wash four ounces of rice through two waters, put it into 
a baking dish with three ounces of sugar and a teaspoonful 
of flavoring; pour in one quart and a pint of milk, and put 
it into a moderate oven to bake an hour and a half, or un- 
til it is of a creamy consistency. This pudding is very deli- 
cate and wholesome. 

APPLE TARTS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

K lb. flour 2 cents. 

4 oz. butter -----__.§« 
4 " sugar -----__ 3" 
2 qts. apples - - - - . . -10" 
legg Icent. 

Total 24 cents. 

(1.) Pare and slice the apples, and stew them tender 
with the sugar and one gill of water. (2.) Make the pas- 
try as follows. Put the flour in a heap in the middle of 
the pastry-board and make a hollow in its center; into 
this put a saltspoonful of salt, the yolk of the egg, and a 
piece of the butter as large as a walnut. (3.) Mix these 
ingredients with the fingers of the right hand, and when they 
are well mixed gradually add enough cold water to make a 
stiff paste, about half a pint. (4.) Roll this about on the 
pastry-board, working it well with tiic right hand, and 



64 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

dusting tlie board Avitli flour until the paste ceases to stick 
to it. (5.) Work the butter a minute with the hand to 
press out the buttermilk, and dry it in a clean napkin. (6.) 
Koll out the paste in a round as large as a dinner plate, 
dust it with flour, lay the butter in tlie center of it, fold 
the edges up over the butter so as to cover it completely, 
press the folded edges down slightly and turn the lump of 
paste over on the board; flatten it with the roller and roll 
out evenly, taking care not to break the butter through it; 
fold one side half over, and then bring the other side up 
over the first, roll it out and fold it twice more and set it 
in a cool place, on the ice if possible. (7.) Let it stand 
five minutes to cool, roll it out again, line the pie plates 
with it, and fill them with the stewed apple. (8.) Cover 
them with paste, ornament the cover a little, brush it with 
beaten egg, or dust it with powdered sugar, and bake it 
in a rather quick oven. 

GOLD CAKE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}i lb. granulated sugar 6 cents. 

1^ lb. flour 2 " 

2 oz. butter 4 " 

y^ pt. milk, (K scant) - 2 " 

6 eggs - 6" 

Flavoring and baking powder - - - - 1 cent. 

Total - - - - - 21 cents. 

(1.) Line the cake pans with buttered paper. (2.) Sift ^ 

one teaspoonful of baking powder and one saltspoonful of 
salt with one cup of flour. (3.) Beat the butter and 
sugar to a cream. (4.) Add to them by degrees two-thirds 
of a cup of milk, and one cup of flour, and beat the mix- 
ture smooth with an Qgg whip. (5.) Beat the yolks of v 
six eggs to a cream, and stir them into the above ingre- . i 
dients. (6.) Stir in the cup of flour which has been sifted * 
with the salt and baking powder, flavor tlie batter with 
Vanilla extract, put it quickly into the baking pan, and 



FIRST ARTISAN COURSE. 65 

bake the cuke in a rather moderate oven. (7.) To test the 
cake run a clean broom splint into its center; if it is done 
the splint will come out clean. (8.) When it is done, turn 
it quickly out of the pan and let it cool. 

SILVER CAKE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 lb. granulated sugar - - . - - 6 cents. 

}4 " flour - 2 " 

2 oz. butter - - 4 " 

K pt. milk (3^ scant) ----- 2 " 

Flavoring and baking powder - - - - 1 cent. 
6 whites of e^Q (cost counted in last receipt) 

Total 15 cents. 

Proceed according to the receipt for Gold Cake, substi- 
tuting the whites of the eggs for the yolks, and flavoring 
with Bitter Almond instead of Vanilla. 




66 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



PART II. 



CHAPTER I. 

FIRST LESSON OF THE SECOJfD ABTISAK COURSE. 

This course of lessons is intended for the instruction of 
the grown daughters mid wives of workingmen, who can 
afford to vary their daily fare at a moderate expense. The 
lessons are arranged in the form of bills of fare, any one 
of which, used entire, is suitable for a holiday dinner; or 
which may be separated to suit the taste and convenience 
of the family using it; the different dishes composing the 
bills of fare may be employed at discretion for either break- 
fast, dinner, or supper. Their preparation calls for a lit- 
tle more care and judgment than the previous course, and 
leads up to the succeeding one. The meats given are all in 
the form of side-dishes, and afford a good example of the 
importance of such preparations for economy and excel- 
lence. 

As pupils arc expected to study the whole of this book, 
introductory paragraphs will be dispensed with through- 
out this course of lessons, being replaced by the necessary 
explanatory notes affixed to the receipts which call for 
them; and the scholars are referred to the preceding 
course, and to the appendix, for any questionable points 
which may suggest themselves. 



Oxtail Soup. 
Baked Herrmgs, — Liver Rolls, 
Cassel Puddings, 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 67 

OXTAIL SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 oxtails ------__ 10 cents. 

1 oz. butter ------- 2 " 

Onion, flour, herbs and seasonings - - - 3 " 
1 carrot -------- l cent. 

1 turnip - ___-__-i" 

Total ----- 17 cents. 

(1.) Cut the oxtails in joints, and put them over the 
fire in three quarts of cold water to blanch, i. e., to come 
to a boil. (2.) Meantime make a bouquet of one sprig 
each of parsley, thyme, marjoram and two bay leaves, tied 
up compactly. (3.) Peel the onion and" stick six whole 
cloves in it; peel tlie carrot and turnip and cut them in half 
inch dice. (4.) When the oxtails have come to a boil, 
drain them, rinse them by running cold water over them, 
dry them in a clean towel; put them again into the sauce- 
pan with one ounce of butter, and fry them brown; stir in 
one ounce of ilour and let it brown. (5.) Pour over them 
three quarts of cold water, put in the carrot, turnip, onion 
and bouquet; season the soup with a level tablespooiiful of 
salt, and half a saltspoonf ul of pepper, cover the sauce-pan 
and let the soup simmer gently for two hours. (6.) Then 
take out the onion and bouquet, and serve the soup. 

The soup should be of a rich brown color; if it is not of 
the proper hue, darken it with caramel, 

CARAMEL. 

II^GREDIENTS, 

1 OZ. sugar -,------1 cent. 

Put one ounce of brown sugar over the fire in a frying- 
pan, and stir it until it turns very dark brown, but do not 
let it burn; when it is the proper color, pour into the pan 
half a pint of boiling water, and stir it until the sugar is 
thoroughly dissolved. Let the caramel cool, and then 
strain and bottle it; it is a good and harmless coloring for 
soups, sauces and stews of various kinds. 



68 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. • 

BAKED HERRINGS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. herrings -------13 cents. 

Vinegar and seasonings - - - - - 5 *' 

Total ----- 17 cents. 

(1.) Scale and clean the fish carefully without washing 
them, unless it is absolutely necessary; split them down 
the back and remove the backbones; sprinkle them inside 
with a little j)epper, salt and powdered mace mixed to- 
gether; if there are any roes enclose them in the fish; put 
the fish in layers in a deep baking dish with half a dozen 
whole cloves, tlie same number of pej^per corns, and two 
bay-leaves between them; cover them with vinegar and 
water equally mixed, salt plentifully, tie a sheet of oiled 
or buttered paper over tlie top of the dish, and bake them 
in a moderate oven for one hour. (2.) Proceed exactly as 
above except that the backbone should not be removed; 
no water should be added to the vinegar, and the fish 
should bake four hours instead of one; the action of the 
salt and vinegar, and the long continued heat, Avill com- 
pletely dissolve the bones. The fish may be used either hot 
or cold. 

LIVER ROLLS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. liver --- 10 cents. 

}i lb. bacon -------- 3 " 

Vegetables, herbs and seasonings - - - 2 " 

Total ------ 15 cents. 

(1.) Cut the bacon in thin slices. (2.) Scald the liver 
with boiling water, cut it in pieces two inches wide and 
three inches long, season it with salt and pepper, lay a slice 
of bacon on each piece, roll each up and tie it firmly. (3.) 
Put any remaining scraps of bacon, some trimmings from 
soup vegetables, and a few herbs in the bottom of the sauce- 
pan, lay the liver rolls on them, season them with pepj^er 
and salt, cover them with boiling water, and simmer them 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 



over a slow fire for about one hour. (4.) Take up the liver 
rolls, remove the strings and lay them on a hot dish to keep 
warm; strain the gravy, if it is not thick add a little flour 
to it, color it dark brown with caramel, pour it over the 
rolls, put a few sprigs of parsley about the dish and serve 
it hot. 

CASSEL PUDDINGS WITH HARD SAUCE. 

INQREDIENTS. 

2 eggs 2 cents. 

8 oz. granulated sugar 6 " 

6 " butter 12*' 

4 '' flour - - Icent 

Peel and juice of half a lemon - - - 1 " 

Total --.-.- 22 cents. 
(1. ) Mix four ounces each of butter and sugar to a cream. 
(2.) Grate the rind of the lemon into them. (3.) Beat 
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and the yolks to a 
cream. (4.) Add the yolks to the butter and sugar, and 
stir in the flour; then stir the whites in lightly, put the pud- 
dings into six buttered cups or tins, making them two- 
thirds full, and bake them in a moderate oven about thirty 
minutes, testing them Avith a broom splint at the end of 
twenty minutes. When they are done turn them out of 
the cups and serve them with hard sauce. 

Hard Sauce. — Rwb together two ounces of butter, four 
ounces of sugar, and the juice of half a lemon, until the 
ingredients are thoroughly mixed; shape the sauce in some 
pretty form, and keep it cold until wanted for use. 



70 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER II. 

SECOKD LESSON OF THE SECOKD ARTISAN COURSE. 



Crecy Soup, 

Filets of Fish with Spanish Sauce. 

Ragout of Sparerihs and Peas, 

Caramel Custards. 

CRECY SOUP. 
INGREDIENTS. 

Soup bones ------»-5 cents. 

Carrots ---------5" 

Bread and drippings - - - - - 2 '* 

2 onions, celery, and seasonings - ~ - - 3 " 

Total 15 cents. 

(1.) Break tlie bones in sniiill pieces, lay them in tlie 
bottom of a pot, add to them four quarts of cold water, 
bring slowly to a boil, and skim carefully. (2.) Peel two 
onions and slice them thin. (3.) Scrape half a dozen car- 
rots, and slice them. (4.) Cut three stalks of celery in 
small pieces. (5.) Make a houquet of herbs. (6.) When 
the soup is quite free from scum put all these ingredients 
into it, season it with a level tablespoonful of salt, and 
simmer it slowly for about two hours, or nntil the vege- 
tables are tender. (7.) Take out the bones and the bou- 
quet, rub the rest of the ingredients through a sieve with a 
potato masher, and return tliem to the fire to heat. (8.) 
Cut two slices of stale bread in dice, fry them in smoking 
hot drippings, })lace them in tlie souji tureen, pour the 
soup over them and serve it hot. 

If the soup shows any sign of settling when it is returned 
to the tire to heat, rub one tablespoonful each of flour and 
butter to a paste, and stir them into it. 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 71 

FILETS OF FISH WITH SPANISH SAUCE. 

INGREDEEKTB. 

3 lb. blue fish ------. 24 cents. 

Materials for sauce - - - - - - 10 " 

Total 84 cents. 

(1.) Cut one ounce of fat bacon in dice, and fry it in the 
bottom of a sauce-pan with one ounce of drippings and two 
ounces each of carrot, onion, and tomato, cut small; stir in 
two ounces of flour when the other ingredients are brown, 
and let it brown too; then add one quart of hot water, or 
water and the remains of any brown gravy; season with a 
teaspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
let the sauce simmer for nearly an hour, skimming it clear. 
(2.) Prepare the filets of fish as directed on page 32, bake 
them about twenty minutes, and keep them hot while the 
sauce is finished. (3.) When the vegetables are soft, rub 
the sauce through a sieve, see if the seasoning is palatable, 
pour a little of it on the dish with the fish, and serve the 
rest in a sauce-boat. Garnish the fish with a few sprigs of 
parsley. 

RAGOUT OF SPARE RIBS AND PEAS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 can peas ------..go cents. 

5 lbs. spareribs - - - - - - 15 *' 

1 oz. butter .-_._-. g" 

Meat or herbs and seasonmgs - - » \ cent. 

Total 38 cents. 

(1.) Out the spareribs in small pieces, leaving two or 
three ribs in each piece. (2.) Put the butter in a sauce- 
pan, heat it, put in tlie spareribs, two sprigs of mint, or 
sweet herbs, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of 
pepper, and enough boiling water to cover the spareribs, 
and stew them for lialf an hour. (3.) Tlieu add the joeas, 
heat them thoroughly, and serve the ragoitt with the spare- 



72 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

ribs ill the center of the dish, and the peas arranged neat- 
ly around them. 

When green peas are in season this dish is less expensive 
than when preimred with canned peas. 

CARAMEL CUSTARDS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pint of milk - 4 cents. 

4 eggs .-------4" 

2 oz, sugar and half lemon rind - - - 3 " 

Total 10 

(1.) Put three drops of caramel, made as directed on 
page 07, into the bottoms of six cups. (2.) Boil a pint 
of milk with two ounces of '"agar and half the yellow rind 
of a lemon; meantime beat four eggs, and strain the milk 
into them; mix thoroughly, strain again, and pour into 
the cups; set these in a baking pan containing hot water 
enough to reach half way up the sides of the cups, and 
either set the pan over the lire until the custards are firm, 
or bake them in tlie oven; they will set in twelve or fifteen 
minutes. Cool the custards, and turn them out on saucers; 
serve them cold. 



CHAPTER III. 

THIRD LESSON OF THE SECON^D ARTISAN COURSE. 



Mulligatawny Soup. 

Persillade of Fish. — Fried Brains. 

Lemon Dumplings with Lemon Sauce. 

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 rabbit -------- 20 cents. 

3^3 qt. onions -- 3" 

3^ lb. rice -------- 2 " 



I 



SECOND ARTISAN COUE^K 73 



Carrot, turnip, jaarsley and seasonings - - 3 cents. 
€urry powder, flour and drippings - - 4 " 

Total 33 cents. 

Mulligatawny soup may be made either of chicken or 
rabbit. (1.) Choose a tender rabbit or hare, which will 
cost at the market about tvv^enty cents, and which if young 
will be i^lump, and have a short neck, thick knees, and 
fore paws Avhose joints break easily; hang it by the hind 
legs and skin it, beginning at the tail and ending at the 
head; wipe it carefully with a damp cloth to remove the 
hairs; take out the entrails, saving the brains, heart and 
liver, and cut it in joints. (2.) Lay the rabbit in a sauce- 
pan with two ounces of dripi)ings, the onions peeled and 
sliced, a teaspoonful of salt, ten whole cloves, and a quarter 
of a level teaspoonful of pepper, and fry it gently for 
twenty minutes. (3.) Pare the carrot and turnip, and cut 
them in small dice. (4.) Make a boiirjtcet of one sprig each 
of parsley, thyme, marjoram and two bay leaves. (5.) 
AVhen the rabbit is brown, stir a tablespoonful of flour into 
it, add the vegetables, houquct, and three quarts of boiling 
water, and simmer until the vegetables are tender enough 
to rub througli a sieve with a wooden spoon. (G.) Mean- 
time, boil the rice as follows: throw it into one quart of 
boiling water containing two teaspoonfuls of salt, and boil 
it fast ten minutes; drain it in a Colander. Meantime, 
just grease the pot with sweet drii^pings, put the rice back 
m it, cover it, and set it on a brick on the top of the stove, 
or m a cool oven, and let it stand ten minutes to swell- be 
careful not to burn it. (7.) Strain the soup, rub the vege- 
tables through a sieve; put the vegetable j^jz^rce thus made 
into a clean pot with tlie soup and the rabbit; ascertain if 
it is salt enough, add a heaping tablespoonful of curry pow- 
der, set the pot over the fire, bring the soup just to a boil and 
serve it hot. (8.) The rice is sent to the table with the 
«oup. Mulligatawny is made from ciiicken in the same way. 



74 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

PERSILLADE OF FISH. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. codfish - 16 cents. 

2 oz. butter 4 " 

Onions and parsley - - - - - - 1 " 

Flour, bread ci-mnbs and seasonings - - 1 " 

Total ----- 22 cents. 

(1.) Make a White Sauce by stirring together over the 
fire one ounce each of butter and flour, until they bubble; 
add half a pint of boiling water gradually, stirring until 
the sauce is smooth, and then season it with a teaspoonful 
of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful eacli of pepper and 
nutmeg. Set the saucepan containing the sauce in a pan 
half full of boiling water, to keep it from drying up, 
while the fish is prepared. (2.) Chop one tablespoonful 
each of onion and parsley. (3.) Remove the skin and 
bones from two pounds of cold boiled codfish, lay it on a 
buttered baking dish which can be sent to the table, mois- 
ten it with the white sauce, sprinkle it with the chopped 
onion and parsley, dust it thickly with dried and sifted 
bread crumbs, dot it over with a very little butter, and 
brown it quickly in a hot oven, or with a salamander. 

FRIED BRAIN'S WITH TOMATO SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Brains ._.-----io cents. 
1 egg, vinegar, herbs and vegetables - - 3 " 

1 qt. tomatoes -------5" 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

1^ lb. lard - 3 " 

Flour, bread crumbs and seasonings - - 2 " 

Total 25 cents. 

(1.) Lay the brains in salt and water for at least one 
hour. (2.) Make the Tomato Sauce as follows: peel and 
slice one quart of tomatoes, half a carrot, half a turnip, 
and one onion, and after reserving two slices of each put 
them into a saucepan over tlio fire witli one })int of boiling 



I 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 75 

water, or broth, one sprig each of thyme and parsley, three 
cloves, three peppercorns, and a bayleaf; boil these in- 
gredients gently until they are tender enough to rub through 
a sieve with a wooden spoon; mix together over the fire one 
tablespoonful each of butter and flour until they begin to 
bubble, stir gradually into them half a pint of boiling water, 
then mix smoothly with the strained tomato sauce; keep 
the sauce hot as directed in the previous receipt. (3.) 
While the sauce is being made take the brains from the 
water, carefully remove the membrane v/hich covers them, 
and put them over the fire to blanch in cold water enough 
to cover them, with the slices of vegetables reserved from 
the tomato sauce, a bayleaf, three cloves, one sprig each of 
parsley and thyme, a tablespoonful of salt, and half a cup 
of vinegar; boil them gently fifteen minutes, then take 
them up, dry them and bread them as follows. (4.) Sift 
a thick layer of dried bread crumbs on the table, 
beat up the Qgg with a tables])oonful of cold water; 
roll the brains in the crumbs, di}) them in the Qg^ quickly 
enough to avoid washing off the crumbs, and fry them in 
smoking hot fat. Take them up wlien brown, lay them 
for a moment on brown paper to free them from fat, put 
them on a hot dish with a little tomato sauce under them, 
garnish the dish with some bits of parsley, and serve hot. 
The remainder of the sauce must be saved for garnishing 
fried chops. 

LEMON DUMPLINGS WITH LEMON SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3^ lb. suet - 2 cents. 

}4 *' bread crumbs - - - - - - 2 " 

2 lemons 4" 

3 oz. sugar - - - - - - - -2" 

2 eggs - 2 " . 

Kpt. milk 2 " 

1 oz. Ijutter -------2" 

Flour, sugar, and nutmeg for sauce - - - 2 '* 

Total - - - - 18 cents. 



76 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Shred the suet and chop it very fine. (2.) Grate 
the yellow rind and squeeze the juice of one lemon. (3.) 
Mix together the suet, bread crumbs,three ounces of sugar, 
the eggs, the rind and juice of one lemon, and enough 
milk to moisten these ingredients; divide them into six 
equal parts; dip six small pudding cloths in boiling water, 
dust them with flour, tie up a dumpling in each, and drop 
them into a pot full of boiling water; boil steadily for an 
hour, keeping the pot covered all the time or tlie dump- 
lings may be heavy. When they are done, take them up, 
turn them out of the cloths, arrange them on a disli, dust 
them with powdered sugar, and serve them with lemon 
sauce. 

Lemon Sauce. — Gnite the yellow rind, and squeeze the 
juice of one lemon; mix together over tlie fire one ounce 
each of butter and sugar, until they bubble; stir in half a 
pint of boiling water, one ounce of sugar, the rind and 
juice of the lemon, and serve in a sauce boat witli the 
pudding. Do not let the sauce boil after adding the 
lemon, or it will be bitter. 



CHAPTER IV. 

FOUJiTH lj5sso:n" of the second aktisan coukse. 



Tripe Soup, 
Fried llalihut Neck, — Kolcannon, — Bubhle and Squeak. 

Apple Fritters. 

TRIPE SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS, 

2 lbs. tripe - ------ 15 cents. 

1 pt. milk 4 " 

3^ qt. onions -- 3" 

Flour, parsley, and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

1 carrot -------- i cent. 

1 turnip --------1" 

Total ----- 20 cents. 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 



(1.) Sciild the tripe, scrape it with n dull knife, rinse it 
in hot water, cut it in strijos two inches long and half an inch 
wide, and put it over the fire in three quarts of cold water. 
(2.) Pare and slice the onions and add them to the soup. 
(3.) Peel the carrot and turnip, cut them in small dice and 
add them to the soup and boil it slowly for one hour. (4. ) 
Mix three ounces of Hour with the milk, add it to the soup, 
season it with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a level 
saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley, and serve it hot. 

FRIED HALIBUT NECK. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. halibut neck 12 cents. 

}i lb. lard -------- 3 " 

1 e^^, bread crumbs, seasonings - - - 5 " 

Total 20 cents. 

The neck of halibut is extremely fat and gelatinous, 
much cheaper than the more solid parts of the fish, and 
when well seasoned, makes a delicious dish. (1.) Wash 
the fish in well salted cold Avater, cut it in pieces three 
inches square, bread and fry it as dii-ected in the receipt for 
Fried Brains on page 74. (2.) Gnrnish it with lemon or 
parsley, or serve it with maitre (V hotel butter. 

KOLCANNON. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3 cents. 

1 cabbage --------5" 

Butter and seasonings - - - - - 2 " 

Total 10 cents. 

(1.) Cleanse and boil a cabbage, and chop it very fine. 
(2.) Boil and peel a quart of potatoes and jnash through a 
colander. (3.) Put the cabbage and potatoes over the fire 
in a frying-pan, with half a tablespoonful of butter, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a level saltspoonful of pepper, and a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and heat them thorough- 



78 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

ly. (4.) Heat a tin mould, butter it, put the Kolcannon 
into it, press it down well, and set the mould in a mod- 
erate oven for half an hour to brown. (5.) Turn it from 
the mould and serve it hot. Cold vegetables can be re- 
warmed in the same way. 

BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. cold meat 20 cents. 

Remains of cold cabbage - - - - - 3 " 
Onion, drippings and seasoning - - - 2 " 

Total 25 cents. 

(1.) Put an ounce of dripj^ings in the frying-pan to heat. 
(2.) Peel half an onion, and chop with it any cold vegeta- 
bles on hand. (3.) Slice the cold meat rather thick, fry 
it in one ounce of drippings, lay it in the middle of a hot 
dish, and keep it hot. (4.) Put the onion into tliej^an in 
wliich the meat was fried, and fry it pale yellow. (5.) 
Add the cold vegetables to the onion, and fry them until 
they are a little brown, seasoning them with a teaspoonful 
of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper. (G.) Put them 
around the meat on the hot dish, and serve it hot. 

APPLE FRITTERS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 apples -----,-- 3 cent. 

Sugar and spice 2" 

4oz. lard - 3" 

2 eggs 2 " 

Oil and flour 2 " 

Total 12 cents. 

(1.) Peel and slice the apples, and lay them in a bowl, 
sprinkling them with sugar, any ground spice preferred, 
and a little wine if it is convenient; turn tliem over fre- 
quently, and let them lay in the sugar and spice, which is 
called a sweet marinade, for about an hour. (2.) Make a 
batter as directed for Parsnij^ Fritters, on page 51. (3.) 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 79 

Dip the slices of apple into the batter, lift them out on a 
fork, drop them into smoking hot fat, fry them golden 
brown, and lay them on brown paper a moment, to free 
them from grease; arrange them on a dish, dust them 
with powdered sugar, and serve them hot. If they are al- 
lowed to get cold they will be less crisp then when used 
warm. 



CHAPTER V. 

FIFTH LESSO]N" OF THE SECOND AUTISAIT COURSE. 



Gravy Soup. 

Boiled Pike with Egg Sauce. — Curry of Pork. 

Orange Omelette. 



GRAVY SOUP. 

INGEEDIENTS. 

1 lb. soup meat with marrow bone - - 10 cents. 

4 oz. ham trimmings - - - - - - 3 " 

Veal bones --__.-- 2" 

Onions, carrots, turnips, celery and seasonings 5 " 

Total - _ . - - 20 cents. 

(1.) Cut all the meat from the bones, chop it fine, and 
put it into the bottom of a saucepan, with the bones and 
a tablespoonful of drippings, and set it over the fire to get 
brown. (2.) Meantime peel the vegetables, stick the onion 
with ten whole cloves, and make a douquet as already di- 
rected. (3.) As soon as the meat is brown, add three quarts 
of boiling water, and let it boil gently until it is clear, add- 
ing two teaspoonf uls of salt, and removing the scum as fast 
as it rises. (4.) When it is clear, add the vegetables whole, 
and the hotiquet, and simmer the soup gently two hours, 
or longer if there is time. (5.) Strain the soup through a 
jelly-bag without pressing either the meat or vegetables; 
the meat will have but little nutriment in it, but may b,e used 



80 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

minced with some potatoes, well seasoned and warmed; the 
vegetables may be saved for Bnbble and Squeak. (6.) Let 
the soup cool, if there is time, so as to remove the fat in a 
solid cake, which will rise to the top as it cools; if there is 
not time, carefully skim off the fat, see if the soup is prop- 
erly seasoned, and heat and serve it. If it is allowed to 
cool do not cover it, or it may sour, and when it is wanted 
for use, heat and season it. 

BOILED PIKE WITH EGG SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

IX lb. pike ------- :SK) cents. 

Vinegar, herbs and seasonings - - - 6 " 

1 oz. butter - - 2 " 

Egg, flour and parsley 2 " 

Total ----- 87 cents. 

(1.) Cleanse the fish in cold water and salt, dry it on a 
clean towel, truss it in the shape of the letter gc , by turn- 
ing the head to one side and the tail to the other, and 
securing them in place with a cord carried by a trussing 
needle. (2.) Boil it as directed in the receipt for Boiled 
Haddock, on page 31. (3.) Boil one Qgg hard and let it 
get quite cold. (4.) Meantime, make the Egg Sauce as 
follows: stir one ounce each of butter and flour together 
over the fire until tliey bubble; gradually add half a i:)int 
of boiling water, stirring the sauce with an egg-whip until 
it is quite smooth; season it with a level teaspoonful of salt, 
half a level saltspoonful of pepper, and as much cayenne 
as can be taken up on the point of a small pen-knife blade; 
set the sauce-pan containing it in a basin half full of boil- 
ing water, to keep it hot until wanted for use. (5.) Re- 
move the shell from the hard boiled egg, chop it fine or 
cut it in small dice, as preferred, and put it in the sauce 
just before using it. (6.) When the fish is done it may be 
served laid in a dish, with the sauce poured over it, or on 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 81 

a neatly folded napkin, garnished with parsley, and the 
sauce sent to the table, in a sauce-boat, with it. 

CURRY OF PORK. " 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. fresh pork ------ 20 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Curry, onion, flour and seasonings - - 3 " 
Klb. rice 5 " 

2 apples 2 " 

Total 32 cents. 

(1.) Out the pork in pieces two inches square; put it 
over the fire to brown in the butter, with half an onion, 
peeled and chopped. When it is brown stir into it one 
ounce of flour, and let it brown. (2.) Wipe the apples 
with a damp cloth, slice them quarter of an inch thick, re- 
move the cores, and put them with the pork. (3.) When 
the pork is brown cover it with boiling water, with any cold 
gravy on hand mixed with it, season it with two teaspoonf uls 
of salt, and simmer it for one hour. (4.) Meantime, boil 
half a jiound of rice as directed in the receipt for Mulliga- 
tawny Soup, on page 72. (5.) When the pork is nearly done, 
stir into it one ounce of curry powder, cover it closely, and 
let it finish cooking. If the curry is added in the early 
stages of preparation, or if tlie saucepan is left uncovered, 
much of its flavor and aroma will escape with the steam. 

Wlien the curry is done, shake the rice out on a platter, 
push it towards the edges of the dish wdth a fork,' to make 
a sort of rampart, pour the curry inside this, and serve it 
hot. 

Veal may be prepared in the same way, except that the 
apples maybe omitted; and it will resemble chicken curry. 
ORANGE OMELETTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 orange 2 cents. 

3 eggs -------- 3 " 

Butter and powdered sugar - - - , 1 cent. 

Total - 6 cents. 



82 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Grate the yellow rind and squeeze the juice of one 
orange. (2.) Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, and 
add the orange rind and juice to them, with two teaspoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar. (3.) Beat the whites to a stiff 
froth. (4.) Meantime have a clean, smooth frying pan on 
the fire heating, with a piece of butter as large as a chest- 
nut. (5.) When the pan is hot, put the omelette into it, 
lift it constantly from the bottom of the pan with a fork, 
piling it in the middle; when it seems nearly done pile it 
at one side of the pan, hold a hot dish close to it, and turn 
it out lightly and quickly. Dust it with powdered sugar, 
and serve it at once. 



CHAPTER VI. 

SIXTH LESSOi^" OF THE SECOND ATITISAN COURSE. 



Turtle Bean Soup. 

Fish Chowder — Chicken Pie. 

Corn Starch Puddings. 

TURTLE BEAN SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. turtle beans 7 cents. 

1 lemon - . 3 " 

2 eggs 2 " 

1 lb. soup meat 6" 

Onion and seasonings 1 cent. 

Total 18 cents. 

Turtle beans are small, black Haricot beans, plentiful and 
cheap, and it is claimed by the lovers of this soup that it 
is very much like mock turtle soup. (1.) Pick over the 
beans, wash them, and put them over the fire in three 
quarts of cold water, with the meat; bring the water slow- 
ly to a boil, skimming it carefully until it is clear. (2.) 
Peel one onion, stick it with ten cloves, add it to the soup 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 83 

with a l)Oiiquet of herbs, made as already directed, and let 
the soup boil gently for about two liours, adding a wine- 
glassful of cold water every fifteen minutes, to check the 
boiling and soften the beans. (3.) Boil two eggs liard, 
remove the shells and whites, chop the yolks fine or cut 
them in small dice, and put them into the soup tureen. 
(4.) Wheu the beans arc soft, remove the meat, saving it 
for some little dish, and rub tlic beans and onion through 
a sieve with a wooden spoon; pour the soup through with 
them. (5.) Put it over the fire, season it with two tea- 
spoonfuls of salt, half a level saltspoonful of pepper, and as 
mucli cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a small 
penknife blade; when it is hot, pour it into the tureen 
upon tlie egg, slice the lemon thin and throw it into tlic 
soup and serve it. 

FISH CHOWDER. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lb. cod fish 16 cents. 

Yi " salt pork ' - - 6 " 

1 " sea biscuit 10 *' 

1 qt. potatoes -------3*« 

K " onions 3 " 

Seasonings - Icent. 

Total 39 cents. 

(1.) Pare and slice the potatoes and lay them in cold 
water; peel and slice the onions. (2.) Wasli the fish in 
well-salted cold water, and cut it in slices an inch thick. 
(3.) Cut the salt pork in half inch dice, put it in the bot- 
tom of a saucepan and fry it brown. (4.) Put the fish, 
potatoes drained from the water, and the onions into the 
pot in alternate layers, seasoning each layer from a saucer 
containing a tablespoonful of salt, and a level teaspoonful 
each of pepper and powdered thyme. Cover all these in- 
gredients with cold water, bring the chowder gradually to 
a boil, and simmer it slowly for thirty minutes. Tlien lay 
a pound of sea biscuit in warm water, or milk, for five 



84 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



minutes to isof ten them, put them into the chowder, boil it 
five minutes longer and serve it hot. A tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley is sometimes added to it. 

A bottle of champagne and half a bottle of port wine 
transforms the above receipt into that for the famous New 
York St. James Chowder. 

CHICKEN PIE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. chicken - - - - - - - 30 cents. 

% lb. flour - - - 2 " 

2 oz. salt pork .-...- 2 " 

5 " butter . 10 " 

Onion, parsley, and seasonings - - - i cent. 

Total 45 cents. 

(1.) Choose a rather tender fowl, pluck all the pin feath- 
ers, singe off the hairs with a piece of burning paper, or a 
little alcohol poured on a plate and lighted with a match; 
then wipe the fowl with a clean, damp cloth, draw it care- 
fully by slitting the skin at the back of the neck, and tak- 
ing out the crop without tearing the skin of the breast; 
loosen the heart, liver, and lungs by introducing the fore- 
finger at the neck; and then draw them, with the entrails, 
from the vent. Unless you have broken the gall, or tlie 
entrails, in drawing the bird, c?o not tvashit, for this great- 
ly impairs the flavor, and partly destroys the nourishing 
qualities of the flesh. (2.) Cut it in Joints and put it into a 
hot frying pan with an ounce of butter, and the salt pork 
cut in dice, and fry it brown. (3.) When it is brown stir 
an ounce of flour with it, and let the flour brown; season it 
with a teaspoonf ul of salt, a level teaspoonf ul of pepper, and 
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; cover it with boil- 
ing water and let it simmer gently for an hour, or until the 
chicken is tender. Meantime make the pastry for the pie 
as follows. 

Pastry for Meat and Game Pies.— (i- ) Pi^t half a pound 
of flour in a heap on the pastry-board, make a hollow in 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 85 

the center into which put a teaspoonful of salt and four 
ounces of butter. (2. ) Mix with the finger tips, using cold 
water enough to make a stiff paste. (3.) Roll the paste 
out, line the edges of a baking dish half way down with a 
strip of the paste. (4.) Put the chicken into the dish, 
pour over it the gravy, fit on it a cover of the paste, orna- 
menting it a little, and leaving some holes in the top for 
the steam to escape; bake it about an hour in a moderate 
oven until tlie crust is nicely browned. Tlien serve it. 

CORN-STARCH PUDDINGS. 

INGREDIENTS, 

3 oz. com-starch 3 cents. 

2 eggs - - 2 " 

4 oz. sugar 4" 

1 qt. milk - 8 " 

Flavoring -------- 1 cent. 

Total 18 cents. 

(1.) Make a custard by mixing together two eggs, four 
ounces of sugar, three ounces of cornstarch, and a teaspoon- 
ful of flavoring; gradually add one quart of sweet milk, and 
stir the custard over the fire until it is just ready to boil. 
(2.) Then put it into cups, and set them in a dripping pan 
half full of water; set the pan in a moderate oven and bake 
the little puddings about half an hour, until they are firm, 
and nicely browned. (3.) Either serve them hot in the 
cups, or cool them and turn them out on saucers. 



CHAPTER VII. 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 



Wrexham. Soup. 

Fish Croquettes. — Creole Sausages, 

Apple Crotltes. 



86 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



WREXHAM SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. lean soup beef ------ 10 cents. 



qt. of tomatoes -------2 

2 turnips --------2 

2 carrots -_-__-. -2 

3^ qt. onions -_-.---3 
Celery and parsley ------ 2 

Seasonings and herbs ----- 2 

Total 23 cents. 

(1.) Pare the vegetables and cut them in thick slices. 
(2.) Cut the meat in thin slices. (3.) Make the usual 
houquet of parsley and herbs, adding to it an ounce of cel- 
ery. (4.) Mix together in a saucer a tablespoonful of salt, 
a teaspoonful of sugar, and a saltspoonful of pepper. (5.) 
Put these ingredients in alternate layers in an earthen 
crock or jar, pour in cold water enough to fill the jar, 
put on the cover, cement it with a thick paste made of 
flour and water, so that no steam can escape, and bake it 
in a moderate oven five hours. 

Remove the houquet before serving the soup, which con- 
tains all the nutriment of the articles composing it. 

FISH CROQUETTES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. cold boUed fish 8 cents. 

}i lb. lard 8 " 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

legg - - - - 1 " 

Bread crumbs, flour and seasonings - - 2 " M 

Total IG cents. 

(1.) Free one pound of cold boiled fish from skin and ^ 

bones, and chop it in small dice. (2.) Mix together over 
the fire one ounce each of butter and flour until they bubble; 
then stir in a pint of boiling water, season with a teaspoonful 
of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of pepper and 
nutmeg. (3.) Put the fish into this sauce, stir it over the 
fire until it begins to thicken, and then pour it out about 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 87 



an inch and a half thick on an oiled dish. Set it away 
from the heat to cool and stiffen. (4.) Dust the table 
thickly with sifted bread crumbs, and beat up an egg with 
a tablespoonful of cold water. (5.) Out the croquette paste 
in strips an inch and a quarter wide and two inches long. 
(6.) Wet the hands with cold water, and form the cro- 
quettes in little rolls like corks; toss them upon the sifted 
crumbs, roll them over, and pat them lightly into shape. 
(7.) Dip them into the beaten egg quickly, so as not to 
wash off the crumbs, roll them again in the ci'umbs and 
lay them on a clean dish. (8.) When all the croquettes are 
shaped, drop them into smoking hot fat,- fry them golden 
brown, lay them on brown paper a moment to free them 
from grease, and serve them hot. 

CREOLE SAUSAGES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. sausages 12 cents. 

1 qt. tomatoes -------5 

Seasonings 1 cent. 

Total 18 cents. 

(1.) Wipe a pound of sausages on a damp cloth, prick 
them with a fork and put them into a deep saucepan. 
(2.) Peel and slice a quart of fresh tomatoes, or use half a 
can of that vegetable; put them into the saucepan with 
the sausage. (3.) Break up a bulb of garlic, select a small 
clove, or division of it, bruise it and add it to the sausages. 
(4.) Season them with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of 
a saltspoonful of pepper; cover the saucepan closely, and 
simmer the sausages gently for half an hour; they will then 
be ready to serve. ^ 

APPLE QROUTES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. apples ^ cents. 

Stale bread 3 " 

Sugar and spice ^ 

Total ----- 10 cents. 



88 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT HOOK. 



(1.) riirc, cut in lialvcs and core a quart of apples. (2.) 
Out as many small pieces of stale bread as there are pieces of 
ajiple. (3.) Lay a i)iece of apple on each piece of bread, 
arrange them on a dripping pan, dust them thickly with 
[)o\v(lored sugar, put a little sjiice on eacli, and bake them 
in a moderate oven. When they are done, which will bo 
in about half an hour, arrange them neatly on a dish, dust 
them with powdered sugar, and serve them cither hot or 
cold. 



cjiArrnu viii. 

ETOnTII LESSON OF THE SECOND AJITISAN COURSE. 



DruiioisG Soup. 
Clam Frit tern, — Mutton RecUanffe. 
Cabinet Puditituj. 



BRUNO ISE SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. soup moat and bono ----- fi conts. 

1 oz. Imtter 2 " 

Carrot, turnip, onion, look, colory - - - 5 " 

Seasonings 1 cent. 

Total 14 conts. 

(1.) Put the soup meat over the fire in two ({uarts of 
cold water and bring it slowly to a boil, skimming it clear. 
(2.) Peel the vegetables, cut them in dice half an incii 
s({uare, put them over the fire to brown with the ounce of 
butter, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a rpiarter of 
a saltspoonful of pepper. (3.) Make the usual houquct, 
and add it to the vegetables. (4.) Take the meat from the 
soup, put it with the vegetables, strain the Ijroth into 
tliuni, season with a h^vcl desertsi)oonful of salt, simmer 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 89 

until the meat and vegetables are tender; remove the meat 
and bouquet, and then serve the soup hot. 

CLAM FRITTERS. 

mGREDIENTS. 

1 bunch of clams ------ 10 cents. 

Materials for batter - - - - - - 5 '* 

Lard for frying - 3 " 

Total 18 cents. 

(1.) Chop the clams fine. (2.) Make a batter as di- 
rected for Parsnip Fritters on page 51. Put the clams 
into it, mix, and fry them in smoking hot fat, dropping 
them into the fat by the tablcspoonfnl ; fry them golden 
])rown, drain them a moment on brown paper, to free 
tliem from grease, and serve them hot. 

MUTTON RECHA UFFE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. cold mutton 10 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

4 " lard 3 " 

Bread crumbs, flour, onion, seasonings - 2 " 
1 Qg^ 1 cent. 

Total 18 cents. 

(1.) Slice the cold meat. (2.) Make a sauce as follows: 
fry one ounce of chopped onion pale yellow in one ounce 
of butter; stir into it one ounce of flour, and one gill of 
boiling water, and stir until the sauce begins to cleave 
away from the sides of the saucepan. Add a saltspoonful 
of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; beat in 
the yolk of a raw Qg^, and pour out the sauce on a dish. 
(3.) Oil the bottom of a shallow dish. (4.) Spread the 
slices of cold mutton with this sauce, first on one side, and 
then on the other, laying the side first siiread on the dish, 
and then covering the other wi-th the sauce. (5.) When 
all the slices of mutton have been covered with the sauce, 
beat up an Qgg with a tablespoonful of cold water. (G.) 



90 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



Dust the table thickly with sifted bread crumbs. (7.) 
Lightly bread the slices by dipping them first in the bread 
crumbs, then in the beaten egg, and, finally, in the crumbs. 
(8.) Wlien all the slices are breaded, fry them in smoking 
hot fat until they are golden brown. Lay them for a mo- 
ment on brown paper to free them from fat, and servo 
them with a few sprigs of parsley to garnish the dish. 

CABINET PUDDING WITH JELLY SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Stale bread - - - - - - - 3 cents. 

X lb. dried currants 3 " 

1 pt. milk - 4 " 

Currant jelly ------- 3" 

4 eggs 4 " 

3 oz. sugar . . - . - _ 3 " 

Total 20 cents. 

(1.) Pick over the currants very carefully, wash tliem In 
the colander with plenty of cold water, and dry them on a 
clean towel. (2.) Slice tlie bread. (3.) Butter a plain 
pudding mould, put the bread and currants into it in alter- 
nate layers, and pour over them a custard made as direct- 
ed on page 72. (4.) Set the mould containing the pud- 
ding in a saucepan half full of boiling water; cover the 
saucepan and let the pudding steam an hour. Meantime 
make the sauce as follows. 

Jelly Sauce. — Melt one ounce of sugar, and a couple of 
tablespoonfuls of currant jelly over the fire in half a pint 
of boiling water, and stir into the sauce half a teaspoonful 
of corn starch dissolved in lialf a cup of cold water. Let 
it come to a boil, and then it will be ready for use. 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 91 



CIIAPTEK IX. 

NINTH LESSON OF THE SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 



Pot-au-Feu. 
Devilled Crabs. — Beef and Vegetables. 
French Pancahes. 



POT-AU-FEU. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. rump beef 30 cents. 

4 carrots --------4" 

1 qt. small white tuniips 3 " 

1 " onions --------5" 

Celery and jiarsley - - - - - - 5 " 

Leek, herbs, and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

1 oz. drippings ------- 1 cent. 

Total ------ 50 cents. 

Pot-au-Feu is the popular dish of France, which com- 
bines the soup and the bouilU, or boiled beef, and vegeta- 
bles, that constitute the ordinary dinner of the French 
people. Its excellence cannot be too highly esteemed, for 
when it is carefully prepared it yields a larger amount of 
nutriment, and satisfies the appetite better than almost any 
other disli of equal cost. It should be made of perfectly 
fresh meat and vegetables, and the greatest care should be 
given to its cooking. When it is finished and served it 
gives a clear, amber-colored soup of delicious flavor, and 
an inviting dish of brown Jo^^^7/^ garnished with fresh-col- 
ored vegetables. 

(1.) Choose a tender piece of the round of beef, bind it 
well together with tape or narrow strips of cloth, to keep it 
in a compact shape; put the drippings into the bottom of 
a saucepan to heat, and then put in the beef and turn it 



92 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

about nutil it is of a uniform brown color. (2.) Add four 
quarts of boiling water, and a teaspoonful of salt, and set 
the saucepan where it will simmer gently; remove tlio 
scum as fast as it rises, throwing in a wineglassful of cold 
water every fifteen minutes until it is clear. Then simmer 
it gently for three hours. (3.) Meantime, scrape and 
quarter tlie carrots, peel tlie onions and the turnips, which 
should not be larger than the onions, stick ten whole cloves 
in one onion, and make a iouquet of the celery, leek, pars- 
ley, three bay-leaves, and one sprig each of thyme and mar- 
joram; lay all these ingredients in cold water until wanted. 
(4.) At the end of three hours, add the vegetables to the 
soup, a handful at a time, so as to avoid cooling the broth 
too rapidly; season it with a tablespoonful of salt, ten pep- 
per corns, and a lump of loaf-sugar, and boil it gently until 
the vegetables are tender. (5.) If crusts, or croutons, are 
desired for the soup, make them as follows; slice some stale 
bread, cut it in small dice, or stamp it in rounds Avitli an 
apple-corer, and fry them golden brown in smoking hot fat. 
Take them up with a skimmer, lay them on brown paper for 
a moment to free tliem from grease, and put them in the 
soup tureen. (6.) When the vegetables are tender, put the 
meat on a platter, take out the bouquet, and arrange the 
vegetables around it; strain the soujd into the tureen, and 
serveboth dishes hot. 

DEVILLED CRABS. 

rXGREDIENTS. 

6 crabs 15 cents. 

Butter, bread crumbs, and seasonings - - .5 " 

Total 20 cents. 

(1.) Choose live crabs, heavy in proportion to their size, 
plunge them head first into a large pot two thirds full of 
well salted boiling water, and boil them rapidly until they 
are red, about fifteen minutes; then take them out and cool 
them a little. (2.) Take off the back shells whole, and 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 93 

wash them thorouglily; pick out all the meat and mix it 
over the fire in a saucepan, with an ounce of butter, two 
slices of bread soaked in cold water and wrung dry in a clean 
towel, a level teaspoonful each of dry mustard and salt, a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a level saltspoonful of 
pepper, and as much cayenne as can be taken up on the jDoint 
of a small penknife blade. (3.) As soon as this forcemeat 
is hot fill the shells with it, dust them with bread crumbs, 
dot them over with bits of butter, arrange them on a pan, 
and brown them quickly in a hot oven. Serve them on a 
napkin with a few sprigs of parsley or slices of lemon as 
a garnish. 

BEEF AND VEGETABLES. 
The directions for this dish are included in the receipt 
for Pot-au-Feu, 

FRENCH PANCAKES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

a eggs - - - 2 cents. 

y^ pt. milk ------.- 2 " 

2 oz. granulated sugar 2 " 

2 *• butter 4 " 

Flour and jeUy -.-... 5 " 

Total 15 cents. 

(1.) Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. (2.) Beat 
the eggs separately, the yolks to a cream and the whites to 
a froth, and add the yolks to the butter and sugar. (3.) 
Stir the milk into these ingredients. (4. ) Butter six tin pie- 
plates. (5.) Sift two ounces of flour with a teaspoonful of 
baking powder, and stir it quickly into the above named 
mixture, with the Avhites of the eggs; put the batter 
quickly upon the buttered plates, and bake the pancakes 
brown in a quick oven. (6.) Dust them with powdered 
sugar, lay them one over the other, with a little jelly be- 
tween, dust the to23 with sugar and servo them hot. 



94 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER X. 

TENTH LESSOR OF THE SECOI^D AllTISAJT COUKSE. 



Creole Sotij). 

Boiled Hay 'with Piqiiante Sauce, 

Salmi of DucTc. 

Baroness Pudding, 



CREOLE SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. tomatoes ------- 5 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

a " rice 2 " 

1 carrot - 1 cent. 

1 turnip 1'" 

Onion, parsley and seasonings - - - - 1 " 

Total 12 cents. 

(1.) Slice one onion, put it in a sancepan, and fry it 
broAvn in one ounce of butter. (2.) Wash one quart of 
tomatoes, break tliem in the hand, and add them to the 
onion. (3.) Peel and slice one carrot and one turnip and 
add them to the tomatoes, with a houquet made of one sprig 
each of parsley, thyme and marjoram, two bay-leaves, one 
blade of mace and six whole cloves. (4.) Add two quarts 
of boiling water and simmer slowly for two hours. (5.) 
Meantime, boil two ounces of well-washed rice in boiling 
water and salt, until the grains are soft but not broken, 
drain it and keep it a little Avarm until wanted. (6.) 
When the vegetables are tender, rub them through a sieve 
with a wooden spoon, season them with a level tablespoon- 
ful of salt and half a level saltspoonful of pepper. If the 
soup is quite thick add to it a little boiling water or broth, 
put the rice into it, simmer it for fifteen minutes, and serve 
it hot. 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 95 



If canned tomatoes and broth are used for this soup it 
will be more expensive than when made as above. 

BOILED RAY WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lb. Ray - - ^ cents. 

1 oz. butter -----...2" 

Herbs and seasonings 2 '< 

Onion, pickle, capers and vinegar - - - 5 " 

Total 33 cents. 

The Ray and Skate, which are used in the same way, are 
similar fish, and in the late winter, may often be found at 
large fish markets at a very reasonable price, because the 
real merits of the fish are comparatively unknown. Both 
. skate and ray are very wliolesome, and the young fisJi are 
delicate and tender. In cool weather the fisli improves by 
being hung a day after it is caught. The fins and liver 
are the best parts; the skin should be removed either be- 
fore or after cooking, and the fish served with a sharp 
sauce. The fish should be broad and thick, with firm fiesh, 
and creamy under side; the upper side is rather dark. 
(1.) Wash the fish after cleaning it, put it into enough 
cold water to covei- it, with two tablespoonfuls of salt, one 
lemon sliced, one onion peeled and stuck with ten cloves, a 
houquet of herbs, and a gill of vinegar; bring slowly to a 
boil, and boil gently for fifteen minutes. (2.) Make the 
sauce as directed in the next paragraph, while the fish is 
cooking. (3.) Then take it carefully out of the water in 
which it was boiled, remove the skin witliout breaking 
the fish, pour the sauce over it and serve it hot. 

Piquante Sauce. — Chop fine a tablespoonful each of 
pickle, capers, and onion; put them over the fire with a 
gill of vinegar, and stir them until the vinegar evaporates; 
then add one ounce each of butter and flour, a teaspoonful 
of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, as much cay- 
enne as can be taken up on tlie point of a small penknife- 



yC COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

bliide, ;uul luilf ii i)iiit of boiling wiiter; let the sauco come 
to II boil and pour it over the lisli. 

SALMI OF DUCK. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 wild duck 25 cents. 

1 jjiut button onions - - - - - - 5 " 

1 oz. butter 2" 

Stale broad 2 " 

Flour, and seasonings 1 cent. 

Total 35 cents. 

(1.) Pluck the duck, cut it in joints, iis for fricassee, 
put it into II saucepan with the butter, and fry it brown 
((uickly. (2.) Meantime, peel a pint of button onions and 
lay tlieni in cold water. (3.) VVlien the duck is brown, 
add the onions to it, with enough boiling water to cover, 
season with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a level salt- 
s})oonful (^f pep2:)er, and a hou(pict of herbs, and let it sim- 
mer for one hour. (4.) Cut the bread in heart-sha])ed 
pieces; lay tlieni on a baking pan, and brown them in a 
(juick oven. (5.) When the duck is done, remove the 
bouquet, pour the sahni ujion a dish, garnish it with the 
croutons, or browned bread, and serve it hot. 

BARONESS PUDDING. 

INGllEDIENTS. 

}4 lb. stale bread crumbs - . . . a cents. 

K " raisins G " 

X " suet -----.-. 4 '' 

6 oz. granulated sugar 4 " 

J<^ pint of milk 2 " 

Total 18centw. 

(1.) Shred the suet and chop it fine. (2.) Seed and 
chop the raisins. (3.) Mix together the suet, raisins, 
bread crumbs, four ounces of sugar, and the milk. (4.) 
Wring a pudding clotii out of boiling watei", dust it thickly 
with iloni, tic the ]»mlding up m it, ])ut it in(,(> a large |>ul 



ISECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 97 



of boiling water, mid boil it steadily for four hours. (5.) 
Turn it out of the cloth, dust it thickly with powdered su- 
gar and serve it hot. 

Any pudding sauce may be served with it if desired. 



CHAPTER XI. 

ELEVEOTH LESSOI^ OF TUB SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 



Mutton Broth. 

Fish Pie. —Kroincskies. — Fricddeh. 

Ajrple Charlotte, plain. 



MUTTON BROTH. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. neck of mutton - - - - 18 cents. 

}>i lb. peurl barley - - . - 3 ** 

1^^»'^«<^ Icent. 

1 turnip - - 1 " 

1 onion and seasonings - - . . ^ << 

Total 24 cents. 

(1.) Cut the meat from a neck of mutton into two-inch 
dice; break the bones, put both into a sauce-pan with three 
quarts of cold water, and bring it slowly to a boil, skim- 
ming it carefully until clear. (2.) Meantime pick over 
and wash the barley and lay it in hot water. (3.) Peel 
the carrot and turnip, and cut them into half inch dice; 
peel the onion and stick it with ten cloves, and make the 
\xm^\ boiiqicct, (4.) When the soup is quite clear, season 
it with a tablespoonful of salt, and quarter of a saitspoon- 
ful of pepper; add the barley and vegetables, and boil it 
slowly and steadily for three hours, or until the barley is 
soft. (5.) Take out the bones and bouquet, and serve the 
meat, barley, and vegei.ables in the soup tureen. 



98 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

FISH PIE. 

INGREDIENTS, 

2 lbs. codfish ------- 15 cents. 

1 " stale bread 3 " 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3" 

Seasonings --------1 cent. 

Total 22 cents. 

(1.) Boil the potatoes in boiling water and salt. (2.) 
Soak the bread in cold water, and wring it dry in a clean 
towel; season it well with pepper, salt and a tablespoon ful 
of chopped parsley. (3.) Cut the fish in small slices and 
lay it in cold salted water. (4.) When the potatoes are 
done, peel them, mash them through a colander, and sea- 
son them with salt and pepjier. (5.) Put the fish and 
bread in alternate layers in a pudding dish, make a top 
crust of the potatoes, and bake the pie an hour in a mod- 
erate oven. 

KROMESKIES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. cold meat 10 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Onion, flour and seasoning - - - - 2 " 

1^ lb. lard - 3 " 

Materials for batter 5 *' 

1 egg ---- 1 cent. 

Total 23 cents. 

(1.) Chop one onion and fry it pale yellow in one ounce 
of butter. (2.) Cut the cold meat in small dice. (3.) 
When the onion is yellow, add to it an ounce of flour; stir 
until smooth, then add half a pint of boiling water, or cold 
gravy, and stir until the sauce is ready to boil. (4. ) Put 
in the cold meat, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a 
teaspoonful of salt, aud tbe yolk of one raw egg, aud stir 
until the mixture is scalding hot. (5.) Turn it out on an 
oiled platter, spreading it an inch thick, and let it cool. 
(G.) When it is cold, cut it in strips an inch Avide and two 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 99 



inches long; pat them into even shapes with a knife blade 
dipped in cold water; drop them into the Plain Frying 
Batter, given on page 51, lift them out with a fork and 
drop them into smoking hot fat to fry golden brown. (7.) 
When they are done, lay them on brown paper for a mo- 
ment to free them from grease, pile them nicely on a clean 
napkin, garnish them with sprigs of parsley, and serva 
them hot. 

FRICADELS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 oz. sausage meat ------ 3 cents. 

4 " stale bread 2" 

2 eggs 2 " 

4 oz. lard - - - -•- . - .3" 
Bread crumbs and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Total 12 cents. 

(1.) Soak the bread in cold water, and wring it dry in a 
towel. (2.) Mix it with the sausage meat, and one Qgg, 
and season it with one teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of 
a saltspoonful each of pepper and nutmeg. (3.) Dip the 
hands in cold water, shape the fricadels in the form of lit- 
tle corks, and roll them in sifted bread crumbs; dip them 
in beaten Qgg, without washing off the crumbs, roll them 
again in cracker dust, and serve them as directed in the 
last receipt. 

APPLE CHARLOTTE, PLAIN. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. apples 5 cents. 

1 lb. bread - - - - - - - -3" 

1 lemon -- -.-. 2" 

2 oz, butter - - - - - - - _4<' 

4 '* sugar ---..---3" 

Total 17 cents. 

(1.) Butter a plain pudding-mould rather thickly. (2.) 
Cut to fit the mould enough slices of bread to half fiJl it, 
and spread them with butter. (3.) Pare, core, and slice 



100 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

the apples, (-i.) Grate the yellow rind and squeeze the 
JLiicc of the lemon. (5.) Fill the mould witli alternate 
kiycrs of bread and butter and apple, sprinkling plenty of 
sugar and lemon between. (6.) Cover the top of the mould 
to prevent burning, bake it three quarters of an hour, turn 
it out on a dish, sprinkle it well with powdered sugar and 
serve it hot. 



CHAPTER XII. 

TWELFTH LESSON OF THE SECOl^D ARTISAN COUItSE. 



Puree of Fish. 

Baked Cod witli Cream Sauce, 

Curried Trijje. 

Sago Pudding. 



PUREE OF FISH. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. fish -- 10 cents. 

3 qts. milk - - 16 " 

3 oz. butter 4 " 

Flour and seasonings 1 " 

Total 31 cents. 

(i.) Boil a pound of any fish in season in plenty of boil- 
ing water and salt; when it is done so that it flakes, take 
it up, cool it, remove the skin and bones, and rub it 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon. (2.) While it is cool- 
ing, mix together over the fire two ounces each of butter 
and flour until they bubble,, and gradually add to them 
two quarts of boiling milk; add the fish, season the soup 
with a level tablespoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spounful each of })epper and mitniL'g, and serve it at once. 



SECOND ARTISAN COURSE. 101 

BAKED COD WITH CREAM SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. cold boiled cod 16 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Bread crumbs and seasonings - - - - 2 " 
}4 pt. mUk ----- . . 2 «' 

Total 22 cents. 

(1.) Make a Cream Sauce by stirring together over the 
fire one ounce each of butter and llour until they bubble; 
then stir in gradually half a pint of boiling milk, and sea- 
son the sauce with a teaspoonful of salt and half a saltspoon- 
ful each of white pepper and grated nutmeg. (2.) Re- 
move the skin and bones from the fish, tear it in flakes 
with two forks, lay it on a baking dish which can be sent 
to the table, season it with a little salt and pepper, pour the 
sauce over it, dust it thickly with bread crumbs, dot it 
over with some small bits of butter, and brown it in a quick 
oven. (3.) Set the dish containing it on a clean dish, and 
serve it hot. 

CURRIED TRIPE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. tripo 16 cents. 

}4 lb. rice 5 " 

Onions, drippings, curry, and seasonings - 5 " 

Total ------ 26 cents. 

(1.) Thoroughly wash two pounds of tripe, parboil it in 
well salted water, put it into boiling water and boil it until 
tender, about one hour; then lay it on a clean, dry cloth to 
drain. (2.) Then put half a pound of rice into the same 
water, and boil it fast for twenty minutes. (3.) Cut the 
tripe in pieces two inches square. (4.) Slice two onions, 
frying them in two ounces of drippings, season with one 
teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a level teaspoonful of pepper, 
and one tablespoonful of vinegar; add the tripe and cook 
all together for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally to pre- 



102 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



vent burning. (5.) When the tripe is done add a table- 
spoonful of curry and stir it well. (6.) Drain the rice into 
a colander, shake it out into a dish, and serve it with the 
tripe. 

SAGO PUDDING. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}i lt>. sago - 3 cents. 

6 oz. sugar --------4" 

6 eggs --_--.-- 6" 
1 pt. milk 4 " 

Butter and flavoring ----- 1 cent. 

Total 18 cents. 

(1.) Soak the sago in water or milk over night; or, if 
that is impossible, put it over the fire in enough water or 
milk to cover it, until it is soft, which will be in about an 
hour. (2.) Beat together in the pudding-dish the sugar 
and eggs. (3.) Stir in the sago, milk, and a teaspoonful 
of Vanilla or Lemon flavoring; dot the pudding over with 
bits of butter, and bake it one hour in a moderate oven. It 
may be used either hot or cold. 




THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 103 



PART UK 



CHAPTER I. 

FIRST LESSON OF THE PLAIN^ COOKS' COURSE. 

This course of lessons is desigued to serve a double re- 
quirement. In the New York Cooking School it has been 
found to meet the wants of young housewives beginning 
married life in comfortable or moderate circumstances, and 
to serve for domestics wishing to take service in families 
where the table is nice without being too expensive. 

The lessons are so arranged that the entire course can 
be taken by pupils needing the full instruction, or certain 
lessons can be chosen to cover specific points, for it is some- 
times inconvenient for girls at service to attend the entire 
course in successive lessons, even though they wish to mas- 
ter it all. In the Kew York Cooking School this course of 
lessons is repeated throughout the entire season, extra les- 
sons being given to girls needing any training which it 
does not include; by pursuing this plan they are enabled 
to attend all the lessons, rephicing in the successive courses 
those wliich they have missed in the preceding ones. 

The kind of instruction given iu this course is a combin- 
ation of plain and middle class cookery, which affords a fair 
variety for the use of persons who appreciate nice dishes, 
but do not wish to increase their expenses to any great ex- 
tent. In this, as in the Second Artisan Course, introduc- 
tory matter will be dispensed with, points not covered 
by the receipts proper being explained in notes appended 
to them. 



104 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



STOCK. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. soup meat and bones - - - - 24 cents. 

Soup vegetables - - - - - - -5" 

Seasonings ---1 cent. 

Total 30 cents. . 

Good soup can be made from the scraps of meat, provid- 
ing it is frcsb, and from any fresh vegetables, or cereals. 
Pot liquor in which meat has been boiled makes good soup 
stock if it has been skimmed clear at its first boiling; it 
needs to have all the fat removed, to be seasoned and finished 
by the addition of cereals, dumplings, rice, or macaroni. 

Experiments made by European chemists show that tlie 
flavor and nutriment of soup can be heightened by chop- 
ping the meat fine, soaking it for one hour in cold or 
luke-warm water, and then boiling it in tlie same water. 
This method is admirable where all the nutritive 
elements of the meat are desired for the use of invalids 
or convalescents; but under ordinary circumstances it 
is far better to cut the meat from the bones in a solid 
piece, and make the soup according to the directions given 
below; under such treatment enough of the nourishment 
contained in the meat passes into the broth, while that 
which it retains makes it available for highly seasoned meat 
croquettes, vinaigrettes and similar entrees. 

If pupils will closely follow the directions here given, 
tliey cannot fail to understand the principles of soup-mak- 
ing to a sufficient extent to enable them to prepare a good 
variety at any season of the year. 

(1.) Where there is a family of any size it is well to 
keep a clean pot or saucepan on the back of the stove to 
receive all the clean scraps of meat, bones and remains of 
poultry and game, which are found in every kitchen; but 
vegetables should not be put into it, as they are apt to 
sour. The proper proportions for soup are one pound of 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 105 

meat and bone to one and a half quarts of cold water; the 
meat to be left whole, and the bones to be well chopped 
and broken up, and put over the fire in cold water, being 
brought slowly to a boil, carefully skimmed as often as 
any scum rises, and being maintained at a steady boiling 
point from two to six hours, as time permits; one hour be- 
fore the stock is done, add to it one carrot and one turnip 
pared, one onion stuck with three cloves, and a bouquet of 
sweet herbs. (2.) When the soup is to be boiled six hours, 
two quarts of cold water must be allowed to every pound of 
meat; this will be reduced to one quart in boiling. Two gills 
of soup are usually allowed for each person at table when it 
is served as the first part of the dinner, and meats are to 
follow it. Care should be taken that the stock-pot boils 
slowly and constantly, from one side; for rapid and irregu- 
lar boiling clouds and darkens the stock as much as im- 
perfect skimming. Stock should never be allowed to cool 
in the stock-pot, but should be strained into an earthen 
jar, and left standing to cool uncovered, and all the fat 
removed and saved to clarify for drippings; the stock is 
then ready to heat and use for soup or gravy. (3.) When 
stock has been darkened and clouded by careless skimming 
and fast boiliug, it can be clarified by adding to it one egg 
and the shell, mixing first with a gill of cold water, then 
with a gill of boiling soup, and stirring it briskly into the 
soup until it boils; then remove it to the back of the fire 
where it will not boil, and let it stand until the white and* 
shell of the egg have collected the small particles clouding 
the soup; then strain it once or twice, until it looks clear. 

Flavoring, Thickening and Coloring Soup.— The flavor 
of soup stock may be varied by using in it a little ham, 
anchovy, sausage, sugar or a calf's foot. Herbs in the 
sprig, and* whole spices should be used in seasoning, as 
they can be easily be strained out. All delicate flavoi-s and 
wine should bo added to son}) just before serving it, unless 



106 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

the contrary is expressly directed in the receipt, because 
boiling would almost entirely evaporate them; one gill of 
wine is usually allowed to every three pints of soup. 

Soups which precede a full dinner should be less rich 
than those which form the bulk of the meal. Corn starch, 
arrow root and potato flour are better than wheat flour for 
thickening soup. The meal of peas and beans can be held 
in suspension by mixing together dry a tablespoonful of 
butter and flour, and stirring it into the soup; a quarter of 
a pint of peas, beans or lentils, is sufficient to make a 
quart of thick soup. Two ounces of macaroni, vermicelli, 
pearl barley, sago, tapioca, rice or oatmeal are usually al- 
lowed for each quart of stock. 

If you wish to darken soup, use a teaspoonful of caramel; 
but avoid burnt flour, carrot, and onion, as all these give 
a bad flavor. Caramel can be made as directed on page 
67, of the Second Artisan Course. 

CLEAR SOUP, OR CONSOMMA 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. soup meat 24 cents. 

Soup vegetables - - - - - - -5" 

7 eggs 7 " 

Seasonings - ....- _>i cent. 

Total 87 cents. 

This is made by straining two quarts of stock, which has 
been cooled and freed from fat, through a piece of flannel 
or a napkin until it is bright and clear; if this does not en- 
tirely clear it, use an egg, as directed for clarifying soup in 
paragraph 3 of the preceding receipt; then season it to taste 
with salt, using at first a teaspoonful, and a very little fine 
white pepper, say a quarter of a saltspoonfnl; and color it 
to a bright straws color with caramel, of which a scant tea- 
spoonful will be about the proper quantity. Co7isomme is 
sent to the table clear, but sometimes a deep dish contain- 
ing poached eggs, one for each person, with enough con- 
somme to cover them, accompanies it. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 107 

Poached Eggs for Consomme'.— ^^'^^^ the eggs, which 

should be very fresh, into a deep saucepan half full of boil- 
ing water, seasoned with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a 
gill of vinegar; cover the saucepan, and set it on the back 
part of the fire until the whites of the eggs are firm; then 
lift them separately on a skimmer, carefully trim off the 
rougli edges, making each egg a regular oval shape, and 
slip them off the skimmer into a bowl of liot, but not 
boiling water, where they mast stand for ten minutes be- 
fore serving. 

SCOTCH BROTH. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. neck of mutton 24 cents. 

X " pearl barley ------ 3 " 

2 oz. butter 4 " 

Carrot and turnip - - - - - - 2 " 

Soup greens 1 cent. 

Onion, flour and seasonings - - - - 1 " 

Total &5 cents. 

(1.) Put four ounces of barley to soak in cold Avater over 
night. (2.) From four pounds of the neck of mutton, cut 
the lean meat in dice half an inch square; cut up the rest 
in small pieces, and make a stock as directed in the receipt 
for stock on page 104, adding two and a Jialf quarts of 
water and the barley, and boiling and skimming for 
two hours. (3.) At the end of an hour and a half 
put the dice of meat into a saucepan with two ounces of 
butter, and fry them brown, and then stir in one ounce 
of flour. (4.) Cut ill dice a yellow turnip and a carrot, 
chop four ounces of onion, and put these with the meat; 
add the barley and the stock strained; season the broth 
with a teaspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of 
pepper, and simmer it one hour. Then sprinkle into it a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and serve it. 



108 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



VERMICELLI SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS, 

4 lbs. soup meat ------ 24 cents. 

Soup vegetables and seasonings - - - 5 " 

Egg and Vermicelli - - - ~ - - 5 " 

Total ----- 34 cents. 

(1.) The stock for this soup is made as for conso^nme. 
(2.) To every quart of stock is added one oimce of Vermi- 
celli, blanched as follows: put the paste into plenty of boil- 
ing water, with one tablespoonfnl of salt to each quart of 
water, and boil until tender; then drain it, and put it in 
cold water until required for use. (3.) It should be placed 
in the hot soup long enough to heat thoroughly before 
serving. 

JULIENNE SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. soup meat ----- 24 cents. 

Soup, vegetables and seasonings - - - 10 " 
1 egg --------- 1 cent. 

Total ----- 3.5 cents. 

(1.) The stock fox Jtilienne Soup is made as for con- 
^omviS. (2.) When the stock is clear, free from fat, and 
of the proper color, the following vegetables, finely 
shredded, are added to it; half an ounce of onion, 
quarter of an ounce of celery leaves, and three ounces each 
of carrot, white and yellow turnips, cabbage, and string- 
beans; below we give plain directions for shredding the 
vegetables. Sometimes the vegetables are slightly browned 
in an ounce of butter before being put into the soup. (3.) 
Tlie soup is gently simmered until the vegetables are ten- 
der, the seasoning is tested, and then it is served. 

How to Shred Vegetables.— 'rh is process is not really a 
difficult matter; it only requires a steady hand, and a lit- 
tle practice. (1.) The vegetables should be washed, pared, 
sliced thin, and laid upon the table in little, uvcn piles. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 109 

about half an inch high. (2. ) They should be pressed 
firmly down on the table with the tips of the fingers of 
the left hand, the tips being bent in toward the palm of the 
hand, and the knuckles nearest the ends of the fingers pro- 
jecting outward. (3.) The knife should then be taken in 
the right hand, the blade laid flat against the lower 
knuckles of the left, the point of the knife resting upon the 
table, and the broadest part of the blade being held over 
the vegetables. (4.) The blade should then be brought 
down upon the vegetables, cutting off thin slivers at each 
stroke. The fingers should be moved back gradually, so 
as to afford a surface for the knife to cut into the vee-eta- 
bles, and the knuckles being always kept bent outward to 
protect the tips of the fingers. 

SPINACH SOUR 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. spinach - 5 cents. 

2 qts. milk -------- 16 '* 

1 oz. butter -----.. 2 " 

Flour and seasonings ------ 1 cent. 

Total - - - - . 24 cents. 

(1. ) Wash and trim one quart of green spinach, put it in- 
to a saucepan holding at least three quarts of boiling water, 
and three tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil it rapidly with 
tlie cover off, until it is tender, which will be in from three 
to seven minutes, according to the age of the spinach; while 
it is boiling press it under the water with a wooden spoon. 
As soon as it is tender drain it in a colander, run plenty of 
cold water over it from the faucet, chop it fine, and rub it 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon. (2.) While the 
spinach is boiling prepare the soup as follows: put the 
milk over the fire to boil, first putting into the kettle a gill 
of cold water, to prevent burning. Mix together over t.he 
fire an ounce of butter and an ounce and a half of flour un- 
til they bubble; then gradually add the boiling milk, season 



no COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

it with a level tiiblcspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonfiil of 
white pepper and quarter of a saltspoonfiil of grated nut- 
meg. (3.) When this broth is done stir into it enough of 
the spinach to color it a delicate green, and serve it hot. 
(4.) If it is prepared before it is needed at the table, set 
the saucepan containing it in auotlier half full of boiling 
water to keep it hot without boiling. 

PEA SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. dried peas - 5 cents. 

Soup vegetables and seasonings - - - 5 " 
Bones and stale bread 5 " 

Total 15 cents. 

(1.) Use a pint of dried peas for every four quarts of 
?oup. Put them in six quarts of cold water, after washing 
tli'^ni well; bring them slowly to a boil; add a bone, or bit 
of ham, one turnip, and one carrot peeled, one onion 
stuck with ten cloves, and simmer three hours, stirring oc- 
casionally to prevent burning. (2.) Then take out the 
bone, pass the soup through a sieve with the aid of a po- 
tato-masher, return it to the fire, and if it shows any sign 
of settling stir into it one tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour mixed together dry; this will prevent settling; mean- 
time cut some dice of stale bread, about two slices, half an 
inch square, brown tliem in the oven or fry them, and put 
them in the bottom of the soup tureen in which the pea 
soup is served. 

The onion is sometimes sliced and fried in an ounce of 
butter in the bottom of the saucepan before the peas are 
put into it. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. Ill 



CmVPTER 11. 

SECOND LESSON" OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Fisii is an itiiportant article of diet; and in this conn- 
try, wliere it is so excellent and so abundant, it is 
worth all the trouble that can be taken in preparing it for 
the table. Care should be taken to have the utensils used 
ill cooking it perfectly clean, in order to preserve the 
flavors of the dikerent varieties, some of which are exceed- 
ingly delicate. 

BOILED COD WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

5 lbs. codfish ' - 24 cents. 

3 eggs 3 " 

1 oz. buttor - 2 " 

Flour and seasonings - - - - - - 5 " 

Total 34 cents. 

Fish boiled a la Hollandaise is properly cooked in sea 
water; but as sea water is not always obtainable, well salt- 
ed water is generally used. (1.) After thoroughly wash- 
ing the fish, put it over tlie fire in cold water, well salted, 
and bring it slowly to a boil; it will be done when the fins 
can easily be pulled out. (2.) Set the pot off the fire, and 
let the fish stand in the water in which it was boiled until 
it is wanted for use. (3.) While the fish is boiling, make 
the sauce according to the receipt given below. (4.) After 
the sauce is made, take the fish up on a napkin, garnish it 
with some sprigs of parsley, and send it to the table witli 
the sauce in a sauce boat. 

Hollandaise Sauce.— I^i^t one ounce of butter and one 
ounce of flour in a saucepan over the fire, and stir constant- 
ly until it bubbles; then add gradually two gills of boiling 
water, remove the sauce from the fire, stir in the yolks of 
three eggs, one at a time, add one saltspoonful of dry inus- 



113 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

tiird, one tablospoonful of vinegar and three of oil, grad- 
ually, drop by drop, stirring constantly till smooth. Serve 
it with the fish. 

FILET OF SOLE WITH CAPER BUTTER. 

INGREDIENTS. 

A 2 lb. flounder 12 cents. 

Egg, bread, seasoning and lard - - - - 8 " 
Materials for sauce - - - - - - .5 " 

Total 25 cents. 

Prepare and cook the Jilets as directed on pp. 32 and 33; 
lay them on a dish on a little Caper Butter, made as di- 
rected below, garnish them with a few whole capers, and 
serve them either hot or cold. 

Caper Butter. — Chop one tablespoonful of capers very 
fine, rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, 
and mix them with a saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, and an ounce of cold butter. Put a 
layer of this butter on a dish and serve the fish on it. 

BAKED BASS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. bass - 45 cents. 

Vegetables, broad and seasonings - - - 5 " 

Materials for sauce ------ 5 " 

4 oz. salt pork 3*' 

Total 58 cents. 

(1.) Choose a fresh bass, wash it well, and wipe it with 
a clean, dry cloth; stuff it with tiie following forcemeat. 
(2.) Put four ounces of stale bread to soak insufficient 
cold water to cover it. (3.) Chop the following ingredients. 
(4.) Fry one ounce of chopped onion in one ounce of butter 
until it is light brown; then wring the bread dry in a clean 
towel, put it into the onion with two tablesjioonfuls of 
chopped parsley, one ounce of salt pork chopped fine, one 
teaspoonful of chopped capers or pickles, one teaspooiiful 
of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and one 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 113 

gill of broth or hot water; stir this forcemeat until it is 
scalding hot, when it will cleave from the bottom and sides 
of the saucepan. (5.) Then stuff the fish with it, and lay 
it in a dripping pan on one ounce of carrot and one ounce 
of onion sliced, one bay leaf and two sprigs of parsley. 
(6.) Cover tlie fish with slices of salt pork, season it with a 
saltspoonf ul of salt, and one fourth that quantity of pepper, 
and bake it in a moderate oven for half an hour, basting it 
occasionally with a little butter, or stock. (7.) AVhen it 
is done, put it on a dish to keep hot while you prepare a 
sauce by straining the drippings in the pan, and adding to 
them one tablespoonful each of Walnut catsup, Worcester- 
shire sauce, chopped capers, and chopped parsley. Pour a 
little of this sauce in the bottom of the dish under the fish, 
and serve the rest with it in a bowl. 

BROILED SHAD WITH MAITRE D' HOTEL BUTTER. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Ishad - - 25 cents. 

1 oz. butter --------3" 

Lemon and seasonings 3 " 

Total 30 cents. 

(1.) Choose a medium-sized shad, weighing about three 
pounds, have it cleaned and split down the back. (2.) 
Turn it occasionally for an hour or more, in a marinade 
made of one tablespoonful of salad oil, or melted butter, 
one of vinegar, a saltspoonf ul of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper. (3. ) Lay i fc on a gridiron, rubbed with 
a little butter to prevent sticking, broil it slowly, doing the 
inside first; and, after laying it on a hot dish, spread over 
it some maitre d' hotel butter. 

Mahre d'Hofel Butter.— Mix together cold, one ounce 
of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon juice, and quarter of a saltspoonfnl of pepper; 
and spread it over the broiled shad. This butter is excel- 
lent for any kind of broiled fish. 



114 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER III. 

THIRD LESSOR OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

This lesson is devoted to such entrees, or side-dishes, as 
represent certain methods that may be applied to other in- 
gredients, and may be considered typical dishes indicating 
the proper preparation of an extended range of stews, cur- 
ries, ragouts, sautes, and broils. The pupils should pay 
special attention to the two last dishes of the lesson, for 
they are seldom well done, even by professed cooks. 

BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. breast of veal ------ 24 cents. 

2 eggs - 2 " 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Floui', vegetables and seasonings - - 5 *' 

Total 33 cents. 

(1.) Cut three pounds of the breast of veal in pieces two 
inches square, put tliem in enough cold water to cover 
tliem, with one saltspoonful of white pepper, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a houquet of sweet herbs, half a carrot scraped, 
a turnip peeled, and an onion stuck with three cloves: 
bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully until no more scum 
rises, and cook gently for thirty or forty minutes until the 
veal is tender; then drain it, returning the broth to the 
fire, and washing the meat in cold water. (2.) Meantime 
make a white sauce by stirring together over the fire one 
ounce , of butter and one ounce of flour, until they are 
smooth, then adding a pint and a half of the broth grad- 
ually; season with a little more salt and pepper if they are 
required, and quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg; 
when the sauce has boiled up well, stir into it with an egg- 
whip the yolks of two raw eggs, put in the meat and cook 
for five minutes, stirring occasionally; a few mushrooms 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 115 

are a great improvement to tlie hlanquette\ or it may be 
served with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley sprinkled 
over it after it is put on a hot platter. 

CHICKEN CURRY. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. chicken - ----- 36 cents. 

yi " rice - 5 " 

Curry, butter, onion, flour and seasonings - 5 " 

Total ----- 46 cents. 

(1.) Choose a tender fowl, pluck it, carefully remove the 
pin-feathers, singe the bird over the flame of an alcohol 
lamp, or a few drops of alcohol poured on a plate and 
lighted; wipe it with a damp towel and see that it is prop- 
erly drawn by slitting the skin at the back of the neck, and 
taking out the crop without tearing the skin of the breast; 
loosen the heart, liver and lungs by introducing the fore- 
finger at the neck, and then draw them, with the entrails, 
from the vent. Unless you have broken the gall, or the 
entrails in drawing tlie bird, do not icash it, for this great- 
ly impairs the flavor, and partly destroys the nourishing 
qualities of the flesh. Cut up the fowl as for a fricassee, 
in joints. (2.) Peel and slice an onion, and brown it 
slightly in the bottom of the saucepan with an ounce of 
butter; put in the chicken, and brown it completely. (3.) 
Then stir in an ounce of flour and brown tliat. (4.) Pour 
enough boiling water on the chicken to cover it, season it 
with a level teaspoonfiil of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper; add a bouquet of herbs, and simmer it 
for an hour, or until the chicken is tender. (5.) Mean- 
time boil the rice as directed in the receipt for Mulliga- 
tawny Soup, on page 72. (6.) When the chicken is nearly 
done add half an ounce of curry powder to it, cover it 
closely, and let it finish cooking. (7. ) Serve the curry on a 
platter and the rice on a separate dish, or enclose the 
curry in a border of rice. 



116 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

RAGOUT OF BEEF. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. round of boef 24 cents. 

2 oz. butter --4" 

Onions, carrot, flour and seasonings - - 5 " 

Total 33 cents. 

(].) Cut the beef in pieces two inches square, mid fry it 
brown in the butter. (2.) Stir in two ounces of flour, and 
let that brown. (3.) Out a carrot in pieces an inch square; 
peel three medium-sized onions and make a houquct, (4.) 
Add these ingredients to the beef, with a level tablespoon- 
ful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of i:)epper, and 
enough boiling water to cover them, and simmer till the 
beef is (|uite tender. (5.) Then take out the houquet, see if 
tlic seasoning is high enough, and serve the rmjoiU. A 
tal)lespoonful of chopped parsley may bo sprinkled over it, 
or some heart-shaped croidons, or slices of bread fried or 
browned in the oven, may be placed around it. 

All ragouts are brown stews, rather highly seasoned; tlie 
addition of a little nice table sauce often liighteiis tlieir 
flavor agreeably. 

MUTTON CHOPS, SAUTt. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. mutton chops 13 cents. 

1 oz. butter 3 " 

Seasonings --------i" 

Total 15 cents. 

To be able to saute)% or '* jumii," a mutton chop is usu- 
ally the mark of a good cook, because the meat requires to 
be very quickly and delicately cooked, to be rare williout 
being raw, and to have all its juices preserved. The smite- 
pan has two handles, which the cook grasps, aud giving 
the pan a quick toss, turns the pieces of meat over. In 
the absence of such a utensil an ordinary frying-pan may 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 117 

be used, but it must be smooth and clean, and the meat must 
be turned over without piercing it with a fork. 

Put an ounce of butter into a clean pan, heat it over the 
fire, put the chops into it, toss them quickly over the fire 
for about ten minutes, season them with salt and pepper, 
and serve them hot, garnished with parsley or cresses. 

BROILED STEAK. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. sirloin steak ------ 30 cents. 

How Meat should be Broiled.— In broiling all meats re- 
member that the surface should not be cut or broken any 
more than is absolutely necessary; that the meat should be 
exposed to a clear, quick fire, close enough to sear the sur- 
face without burning, in order to confine all its juices; if it 
is approached slowly to a poor fire, or seasoned before it is 
cooked, it will be comparatively dry and tasteless, as both 
of these processes are useful only to extract and waste those 
precious juices which contain nearly all the nourishing 
properties of the meat. 

To broil a beefsteak nicely, rub the bars of the gridiron 
smooth, and then grease them slightly; lay on a sirloin 
steak weighing about two pounds; put the gridiron over a 
hot fire; if the fire is not clear throw a handful of salt into 
it to clear it; broil the steak, turning it frequently so that 
it cannot burn, until it is done to the required degree. Do 
not cut into it to ascertain this, but test it by pressing the 
tips of the fingers upon it; if it springs up again after the 
pressure is removed it is done rare; if it remains heavy and 
solid it is well done; while it is being broiled prepare some 
maitre dliotel butter according to the receipt given on 
page 33; spread it over the sieak after you have laid it on a 
hot dish, and garnish it with sliced lemon, parsley, or water 
cresses; or season it with pepper and salt, and spread it with 
a little butter. 



118 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER IV. 

rOUKTH LESSOK OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

The large meat dishes which compose this lesson are in- 
tended to replace the too frequent roast-beef and boiled 
leg of mutton of ordinary family dinners, of which we all 
grow woefully tired, and which many mistresses would be 
glad to vary with new and equally substantial joints. 

JL LA MODE BEEF. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. round of beef 48 cents. 

}i *' fat pork 3 " 

1 pt. button onions ------ 5" 

1 " string beans -------5" 

Carrots and turnips - - - - - - 5 " 

Lemon, herbs, spice, seasonings - - - - 5 '* 

Oil and vinegar ___--. 5" 

Total 76 cents. 

(1.) Prepare a viarinade, or pickle, for the beef, as fol- 
lows: cut in slices four ounces each of carrot and onion, 
two ounces of turnip and one ounce of leek; chop a quarter 
of an ounce each of parsley and celery, if in season; slice 
one lemon; add to these one level tablespoonful of salt, one 
saltspoonful of pepper, six cloves, four allspice, one inch of 
stick cinnamon, two blades of mace, one gill of oil, a pint 
of vinegar and one pint of water. Mix all these ingredi- 
ents thoroughly, and use the 7narmade for beef, game or 
poultry, always keeping it in a cool place. (2.) Dauhe a 
piece of round of beef, by inserting, with the grain, pieces 
of larding pork, cut as long as tlie meat is thick, and 
about half an inch square, setting the strips of pork about 
two inches apart; this can be done either with a large lard- 
ing needle, called a somUy or by first making a hole with 
the carving-knife steel, and then tlirusting the pork in 
with the fingers. (3.) Lay the beef in a deep bowl con- 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 119 

taiuiiig the marinade, or pickle, given in the previous 
paragraph, and let it stand from two to ten days in a cool 
place, turning it over every day. (4.) Then put it into a 
deep pot just large enough to hold it, together with the 
marinade, and turn it occasionally over the fire until it is 
nicely browned; cover it with hot stock or water, and sim- 
mer it gently four hours. (5.) When it has been cooking 
three hours, cut about four ounces each of carrots and tur- 
nips in the shape of olives; pare two dozen button onions,and 
cut one pint of string beans in pieces one inch long; put 
all these vegetables on the fire in boiling water, in separate 
vessels, each containing a teaspoonful of salt and half a 
saltspoonful of sugar, and let them boil till tender; then 
lay them in cold water to keep their color until ready to 
use them. (6.) When the meat is tender, take it up and 
keep it warm; strain the sauce in wdiicli it has been cooked, 
and stir it over the fire until it is thick enough to coat the 
spoon; drain the vegetables and let them scald up in the 
sauce, and pour all over the beef. 

BREAST OF VEAL, STUFFED. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. breast of veal ------ 34 centB. 

X lb. salt pork ------- 3 " 

Bread, onion, and seasonings - - - - 3 " 

1 oz. butter - - 3 " 

1 eg^ 1 cent. 

Total 33 cents. 

(1.) Make what is called a pocket in a three-pound breast 
of veal, by cutting the flesh of the upper side free from the 
breast bones, taking care to leave three outer sides of the 
meat whole, so as to hold the stuffing. (2. ) Prepare a bed 
of scraps of vegetables, herbs, and pork in the dripping 
pan. (3.) Stuff the veal with forcemeat made as below, 
sew it up, lay it on the vegetables, put four ounces of salt 
pork cut in thin slices on the top, season it with a teaspoon- 



120 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



fill of salt, and a quarter of a saltsi)ooiif iil of i)epi)or, and 
bake it in a moderate oven about one hour, till tliorouglily 
done; serve it with a brown gravy made by rubbing the 
dripping in the pan, together witli the vegetables, through 
a sieve, adding a little boiling water, and seasoning proper- 
ly. 

Forcemeat for Eoast Veal— (i.) Steep four ounces of 
bread in cold water. (2.) (Jliop one ounce of onion, and 
fry it yellow in one ounce of butter. (3.) Wring the bread 
dry in a towel, and add it to the butter and onion; season 
with one saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonf ul each 
of pepper and powdered thyme, or mixed spices, and stir 
till scalding hot; then remove from the fire, stir in the yolk 
of one raw iigg, and stuff the breast of veal with it. Thid 
is a very good stuffing for poultry or lamb. 

CANTON OF LAMB. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. shoulder of mutton - - - - 24 cents. 

Carrots and turnips 3 " 

Bread, onion, and seasonings - - - - 4 " 

1 oz. butter - - - 3 " 

2 eggs -^ 

Total 35 cents. 

(i;) Jjay the shoulder, which should come from the 
market uncut, on the table with the inner part up; cut 
out the shoulder blade, and boil it to clean it thoroughly; 
then with a sharp, thin-bladed knife, cut out the first 
length of the fore leg bone and half the second, breaking 
it off midway between the first and second joints, and be- 
ins' careful not to mandc the meat, or cut through the 
skin. (2.) Trim off the end of tlie bone to look like ;i 
duck's bill. (3.) Stuff the shoulder with the following 
forcemeat; sew it up, turn it over, and truss it so as to 
look like a duck. (1.) I'ut it into the dripjving pan on a 
f<jw scni})s of v«.'gctaljlc.s and lierl)>s, 'Mn\ bake it in a (juick 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COVHSE. 131 



oven about tvvent}' minutes to each pound. (5.) Meantime 
ju-cpare the garnish bypai'ing the carml.s and turnips, cut- 
ting them in little balls, boiling them only till tender in 
well-salted boiling water, and laying them in coM water to 
keep their color. {(^.) When the ('(nrhn k done take it 
uj) on a hot dish, and keep it hot without drying, while 
the sauce is made, (T. ) Make the sauce as directed in the 
preceding receipt for Breast of Veal. (S.) M^hen ready to 
serve the Oauton, heat the vegetables in the sauce, arrange 
them around the Canhni, put the shoulder blade, which 
must be scra}>ed after it is boiled, and have the broad end 
notched to resemble featlicrs, in the tail of the Canton^ and 
serve it. 

Sage and Onion Forcemeat,— Pare six ounces of onion, 
and bring them to a boil in three different waters; soak 
eight ounces of stale bread in tepid watcj', and wring it 
dry in a towel: scald ten sage leaves; when the onions are 
tender, which will be in about half an hour, chop them 
with the sago leaves, add them to the bread, with one 
ounce of butter, the yolks of two raw eggs, one level tea- 
spoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper; mix 
and use. 

ROAST HAM WITH MADEIRA SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

7 lbs. ham - . . . - 98 cents. 

Carrots and turnips - - - - - - 10 " 

Onions, bread, and beasouings - - - 3 '* 
One gill Madeira Wine - - - - - 13 " 

Total |!1.34 cents. 

(1.) Choose a ham by running a tliin-bladed knife close 
to the bone, and if the odor which follows the cut is sweet 
the ham is good; soak it in cold water for twenty -four 
hours, changing the water once. (2.) Scrape it well, and 
trim otf any ragged parts; put it in enough cold water to 
cover it, with an onion vvei<'hinir about one ounce, stuck 



122 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



witli six cloves, and a bonqtief^ and boil it four liours. (3.) 
'I'akG it from the fire and let it cool in the pot-li(|nor. (4.) 
Then take it np carefully, remove the skin, dnstitAvith 
sifted bread or cracker crumbs^ and brown it in thaoven. 
i>erve it either hot or cold; if hot, send it to the table with 
a gravy boat full of Madeira sauce, and a vegetable garnisb 
nuide as below. 

Madeira Sauce. — P^^t over the fire in a thick saucepan 
one pint of any rich, brown gravy, seasoned with salt and 
pepper to taste; the seasoning must depend on the flavor' 
of the gravy; when scalding hot fidd quarter of a pint of 
Madeira wine, and stir till the sauce is thick enough to 
coat the spoon; then strain through a fine sieve, and serve 
hot. 

Vegetable Gamisll.— (l-) P^^'c some large carrots and 
white turni])S, cut tliem in the shape of olives, and cloves 
of garlic; boil them in well salted boiling water, and then 
put them into cold water to retain their color until wanted. 
\z.) Heat them in the sauce, and then arrange them 
around the ham in alternate groups, with a little of the 
sauce poured over them. 



CHAPTER Y. 

FIFTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS^ COURSE. 

Poultry constitutes the substantial dish of most of the 
winter Sunday dinners of American families in moderate 
circumstances, and its preparation is a good test of a cook's 
skill; if she can draw her birds Without mangling or soil- 
ing them, and then prepare them so as to combine an in- 
viting appearance with an enjoyable flavoi*, she proves 
that she has pursued her ai-t with taste and discretion. 
Nothing is more disagreeable tiian to find that a nice look- 
ini>- dish of poultry or i^amc lacks delicacv or cleanliuess of 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 123 

Ihivor; so it will bo well for pupikto iittcud carefully to 
the iiistriictions given in this lesson. 

IIOAST DUCK WITH WATERCRESSES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lb. duck ----- » - - 45 cents. 

1 pt. water cresses - 5 " 

Salad sauce 5" 

X lb. cheese 4 " 

loz. butter ------- 3 *' 

2egg-s a " 

Bread, herbs and seasonings - - - - 3 '• 

Total 66 cents. 

(1.) Pluck, singe and draw a duck as directed in the re- 
ceipt for Chicken Curry on page 115. (2.) Twist the tipii 
of the wings back under the shoulders, stuff the bird with 
forcemeat made according to receipt given below. (3.) 
Bend the legs as far up toward the breast as possible, se- 
cure the thigh bones in that position by a trussing cord or 
skewer; then bring the legs down and fasten them close to 
the vent. (4.) Pound the breast bone down, first laying a 
towel over it to prevent bruising it. Lay a thin slice of 
salt pork over the breast to baste it until sufficient drip- 
})ings run from the bird, and put it in a hot oven. (5.) 
Baste it frequently, browning it on all sides by turning it 
about in the pan; use a clean towel to turn it with, but do 
not run a fork into it or ijoih ivill waste its juices ; when it 
is half done season it with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one 
saltspoonful of powdered herbs. (G.) When it has cooked 
about fifteen minutes to each pound, dish it and keep it hot 
while you make a gravy by adding half a pint of water to 
the drippings in the pan, first taking off a little of the su- 
perfluous fat, and thickening it if desired with a teaspoon- 
ful of flour mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cold water; 
strain this sauce and serve it in a sauce-boat. Ilie same 
directions for drawing, trussing and roasting will aj>2)ly to 
other poultry and game. (7.) When the sauce is ready. 



124 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



or when the duck is done, if no sauce is to be used, hiy the 
bird on a disli with a boi'der of watercresses, slightly 
dressed with a tablespoonful of vinegar, two of oil, and a 
little pepper and salt, and send it to the table. 

ForcemeatforEoast Poultry.— (1-) Hteep eight ounces 

of stale bread in cold water for live minutes, and wring it 
dry in a clean towel. (2.) Meantime chop fine four ounce? 
each of fresh veal and pork, or use instead, eight ounces 
good sausage meat, or grate eight ounces of good, rather drv 
cheese. (3.) Fry one ounce of onion in one ounce of but- 
ter to a light yellow color; add the bread, meat or cheese, 
season with a saltspoonful of powdered hei'bs, a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and two whole eggs; 
mix well and use. 

ROAST WILD DUCKS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pair Mallard ducks - - - - - $1.00 

% lb. salt pork 3 cents. 

Lemon and seasoniugs - - _ - 3 '' 

Totid $1.06 

Prepare a pair of ducks as directed in above recei})t; do 
not stuff them, but tie ovl?r the breasts slices of pork or 
bacon; roast fifteen minutes to the pound; serve with gravy 
in a boat and quarters of lemon on the same dish. Wild 
ducks are usually served underdone. Canvas Back Ducks 
should be rare. 

BOILED FOWL WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lb. fowl -------- 38 cents. 

1 qt. oysters 3.5 " 

1 oz. butter - - - - - - 2 " 

Flour, seasoning, and parsley - - - - l cent. 

Total 00 cents. 

(1.) Prepare a fowl in accordance with receipt for j)re- 
})Mriug ro.ast duck on page 123, but do not stulf it. (2.) 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 125 



Put it into })oiling water CBoiigh to cover it, with a level 
tjiblespoonfal of salt to eacli quart of water; vskim until clear, 
and boil slowly until tender, about fifteen minutes to a 
pound. (3.) When nearly done, make an oyster sauce as 
directed below, and serve it on the same dish with the fowl, 
sprinkling it with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. 

Oyster Sauce, — Blanch one quart of oysters by bringing 
tiiem to a boil in their own liquor; drain them, saving the 
liquor; wash them in cold water and set them away from 
the fire until you are ready to use them; stir one ounce of 
butter and one ounce of flour together over the fire until 
they form a smooth paste; strain into them enough of the 
oyster Fu^uor and that in which the chicken was boiled, to 
make a sauce as thick a^^ melted butter; season witb a tea- 
spoonful of salt, quarter of a salt-spoonful of white pepper, 
and the same of grated nutmeg; put in the oysters and 
serve. 

BONED BIRDS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 pigeons -------- Ho cents. 

3i lb. sausage meat 3 " 

Egg and seasoning 3 '' 

Total 30 cents. 

(1.) Lay a bird on its breast on the table, and with a 
sharp knife make a clean cut down the length of the back. 
(2.) Without cutting through the skin cut towards and 
disjoint the wings. (3.) Next cut towards and disjoint 
the thighs, leaving the wing and thigh bones in the flesh. 
(4.) Now proceed to cut all the flesh from the carcass of 
the bird, keeping it entire, and being carefnl not to cut 
through the skin. (5.) WHien it is all removed, lay it skin 
down upon the table, and take out the wing and thigh 
bones without cutting thron gh the skin! (6.) Season the 
flesh lightly with salt, pepper, and a little spice, stuff it 
with a piece of highly-seasoned sausage meat mixed with 
one e^g, and roll the flesh over the forcemeat to imitate the 



126 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



form of the bird, (7.) It maybe tied tightly in a clean 
cloth, boiled two hours with herbs and spices, and served 
cold with a garnish of jelly. Or it may be baked in a pie 
and served hot or cold. 

BROILED BIRDS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 pigeons 25 cents, 

(1,) Pluck and Avipe clean with a damp cloth. (2.) Split 
down the back and carefully remove the entrails without 
breaking them. (3.) Broil the birds over a moderate fire 
for twenty minutes, lay each on a slice of toast, and serve 
them with maitre dliotel butter or watercresses. 

CHICKEN FRICASSEE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lb. fowl -------- 38 cents. 

Flour, vegetables, and seasonings - - - 5 " 

1 o7.. butter 3 " 

Total - - - - - - 45 cents. 

(1.) Dress a chicken and cut it in joints as directed in 
the receipt for Chicken Curry, on pnge 115. (2.) Put it 
over the fire in boiling water enough to cover it, skim it as 
often as any scum rises, add a desertspoonful of salt, 
half a dozen peppercorns, half a carrot peeled, an onion 
peeled and stuck with ten cloves and a bouquet . (3.) Sim- 
mer slowlv until the chicken is tender, about an hour, and 
then take it up to keep hot while the sauce is made. (4.) 
Strain out the vegetables, and set the broth to boil; mix 
one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour together over 
the lire until they become a smooth paste; then gradually 
add a pint and a half of the broth, stirring the sauce with 
an egg-whip until it is quite smooth; season it to taste with 
salt and pepper, put the chicken into it to heat, and then 
dish it on a hot platter. Half a can of mushrooms greatly 
improves the flavor of x\\q fricamee. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 127 



CTIAPTEII VT. 

SIXTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

The pupils taking this lesson are desired to stiuly the in- 
troductory matter of Chapter VIIL, of the First Ar- 
tisan Course, beginning on page 45, before practising these 

receipts. boiled potatoes. 

INGREDrENTS. 

^ A. 4. 4.,.^ . - _ - 3 cents, 
iqt potatoes - - - .... 1 cent. 
Bait - - - - " 

Total ----- *ic^n*s.. 

Boil according to receipt given on page 40. 

POTATO CROQUETTES 

INGREDIENTS. 



1 qt. potatoes 

1 oz, butter - - - ' ~ 
3 eggs - - - - ' ■ 
Bread crumbs, seasonings and lard 



3 cents. 

3 " 
5 '* 



Total ----- 1^*=^«^- 
(1.) Peel and boil tlic potatoes according to i-cceipt given 
on p^ge 46. (2.) Mash them through a fine colander, mix 
with tiiem the butter and two yolks, and season them witli 
salt to taste, and quarter of a saltspoouful each of white 
pepper and nutmeg. (3.) Dust the table thickly with 
bread crnmbs, and beat up an i^.g% with a tablespoonful of 
water. (4.) Dip the hamts in cold water, form the pota- 
toes in little i-olls like corks, <and toss them upon thccnick- 
er dust (5.) Roll them first in the cnw^ker dust, turamg 
them lightly under the palm of the hand, dip them into 
the beaten egg, but do not wash off the cracker dust, and 
then roll them into shape. (6.) Fry them golden brown m 
smoking hot fat, lay them on brown papoi- a moment to free 
them from grease, and then serve them in a little pde on a 



128 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



napkin, or use them to garnish roast chicken or some meat 
dish. 

KENTUCKY POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3 cents. 

}4 pt. cream ------- 10 " 

Seasonings and butter 2 " 

Total 15 cents. 

Peel the potatoes, slice them, put them in layers in a 
baking dish with a little cream, season them with pepper, 
salt and nutmeg, and kike them an hour in a quick oven. 
Serve them hot. 

STUFFED FOTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Potatoes, cheese, butter, and seasonings - 12 cents. 

(1.) Wash the potatoes with a brush, and bake them 
oiUy until they begin to soften, not more than half an 
hour. (2.) Cut off one end, scoop out the inside with a 
teaspoon into a saucepan containing two ounces of butter, 
one saltspoonful of white pepper, one tcaspoonfnl of salt, 
and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; stir all these 
ingredients over the tire until they are scalding bot. (3.) 
Then fill the potato skins with the mixture, put on the 
ends, press the potatoes gently in shape, finish baking them 
in the oven, and serve them on a bot dish covered with a 
napkin, the potatoes being laid on the napkin. Observe 
never to cover a baked {>otato unless you want it to be 
heavy and moist. 

BOILED GREEN PEAS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 peck of green peas 15 cents. 

1 oz. V>utter 2 " 

Seasonings and mint '6 ' 

Total ------ 30 cents. 

(1.) Put a saucepan two thirds full of water over the fire 
to boil, adding a tablespoonful of salt to every quart of 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 129 



water. (2.) Take the bruised or decayed pods from among 
the peas, wash the good ones in plenty of cold water, drain, 
and shell them. (3.) Throw the peas into the boiling 
water, with two sprigs of green mint, and boil them only 
until tender. Then drain them, and put them into cold 
water until wanted to prepare for tlie table. The action 
of the salt in boiling, and of the cold water in which the 
peas are subsequently placed, is to harden the surface suf- 
ficiently to prevent the escape of the coloring matter, and 
so to preserve the bright green hue of the vegetables. (4.) 
Five minutes before they are to be sent to the table they 
should be Avarmed quickly with a little butter, pepper, and 
salt, or with any sauce which is desired to <lress them. 

STEWED TURNIPS WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. turuij)s - - 3 cents. 

1 oz. butter -------- 3 " 

Flour, milk, and se^^ouings - - - - 2 " 

Total 7 cents. 

(1.) Pare the turnips, cut them in half inch dice, and 
boil them until they begin to grow soft m boiling wat6r 
\vith a tablespoonful of salt. {%.) Meantime make a ^t^'- 
chdinel sauce as follows: stir together over the fire one ounce 
each of butter and flour until they bubble, gradually add 
half a pint of boiling water and a gill of milk, season with 
a level teaspoonf ul of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful ench 
of white pepper and nutmeg. (3.) Drain the turnips from 
the boiling water, put them into the sauce, simmer them 
until tender, and serve them in the sauce. 



180 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAFfEK Vn. 

SEVENTH LESSON OP THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Tub pupil is referred to page 40 for directions for choos- 
ing and boiling macaroni. 

MACARONI WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

)4 lb. macaroni 8 cents. 

1 oz. butter . 2 " 

I " Parmesan cheese - - - - - 3 *' 

Flour and seasonings 1 cent. 

Total 13 cents. 

(1.) Boil the macaroni as jilready directed. (2.) Mak^. 
a white sance by stirring together over the fire one ounce 
each of butter and flour until they bubble, adding half a pint 
of boiling water, and seasoning with a level teaspoonful of 
salt, a!id quarter of a saltspoonful each of pepper and nut- 
meg. (3.) After draining the macaroni from the cold 
water, put it into the sauce with an ounce of grated Par- 
mesan cheese, stir it until thorouglily heated, and then 
serve it hot. 

MACARONI i VITALIENNE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3^ lb, mncarori -.,-.. Scents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

1 " Parmesan cheese - - - - - 2 *' 

Tomato sauce - 5" 

Total 17 cents. 

(1.) Boil the macaroni as directed. (2.) Make a Toma- 
to Sauce as directed on page 74. (3.) Put the macaroni in 
a baking dish which can be sent to the table, in alternate 
layers with the Parmesan cheese and Tomato Sance, brown 
it quickly in a hot oven, and serve it hot. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 



r.ii 



MACARONI A LA MILAN AISE. 

INGREDIEATS. 

}4 lb. macaroni _-.-.- g cents. 
1 oz. butter -------- 2 " 

Toniato sauce ------- 5 • 

Chicken or tongue - - - - - 10 * 

Total - - . - - - 25 cents. 

{1.) Boil the mjw\*iroiii a^ alroad^' directed, (2.) Make 
M Toniato Sauce accovdjng to the receipt on page 74. (3.) 
Finish the disli as for the preceding dish, omitting the 
Pnrmesan cheese, and adding some cohl i:hicken or tongue 
€ufc in dice, 4ind enough gravy to moisten it. 



CHAPTER Vlll. 

EIOIITH LESSON OF THE PLAIX OOOKs' COl^R-Sr:. 

Tfte pi-eparation of eggs is quite Inllv treated in Chapter 
IV, of the P^irst Artisan Course, heginning On page ol, 
and pupils are referred to it for preliminary information. 
Several of tlie receipts given tJicrc are repeated ]iere, on 
account of their importance to all classes of cooks. 

POACHED EGGS. 

See page 35 for receipt. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

8 eggs - - - B cents. 

i^oz. butter - - - - - - - 1 cent. 

Seasonings - - - - - - - - 1 •' 

Total ----- 5 cents. 

Heat a clean frying pan, put the butter into it, then tlte 
eggs, broken into separate saucers, season light;ly with salt 
and pepper, and stir briskly until the eggs are cooked to 
tlie proper degree. Serve tiiom on a hot dish. 



132 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



BAKED EGGS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 eggs ---------6 cents. 

>2 oz. butter - ----- - 1 cent. 

Seasonings 1" 

Total 8 cents. 

Break the eggs sepanitely, put them into a dish wliicli 
can be sent to the tabic, season them lightly with pe[)per 
and ?alt. dot the surface with bits of buttei\ and bake the 
eggs until they are of the required consistency. Sen'e 
them hot. 

HAM OMELETTE. 

IK (i RED TEXTS . 

3 eggs --------- 3 cents. 

ii oz. cooked ham - - - - - - - 4 " 

Butter and seasonings I cent. 

Total ----- 8 cents. 

(1.) (!hop the ham quite fine. (2.) Heat the omelette 
pan, put in a bit of butter as large as a walnut, theti the 
eggs broken separately, and the liam, and finish as directed 
on page 36, for omelette. 

OYHTEB, OMELETTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 eggs -------- 3 centa 

Oystei-s --------- 3 " 

Butter and seasonings ----- i cent. 

Total 7 cents. 

(1.) Put a gill of oysters over the fire to come to a boil 
in their own liquor. (2.) When they just boil, drain them, 
put them in the middle of a plain omelette, fold it over and 
finish Jl as directed on page 06. 

FINE HERBS OMELETTE. 

INOREDIETnTS. 

8 eggs -------- 3 cents. 

Herbs, butter and seasonings -, - - - .5 " 

Total Scents. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 133 



(1.) Chop fine a teaspoonful each of parsley, mushrooms, 
aiul any green herbs in seaison, and mix them with an 
omelette made as directed on page 86. 

OMELETl'E WITH PRESER\"ES. 

INGRICDIENTS. 



3 eggs 
Preserves 



3 cents. 
5 «' 



Butter ami sugar ..---- 1 cent. 
Total - - - - - a cents. 

Make an omelette as directed on jiage 36, put two table- 
spoonfuls of preserves into the middle, and iinish it like the 
sweet omelette in the receipt on page 37. 



CHAPTER IX. 

NTXTTI LE-SSOX OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSl!!. 

This lesson is a repetition of the fourth lesson of the First 
Artisan Course, given on page 37, and so we refer the pupils 
to that part of the book for the directions. 



CHAPTER X. 

TENTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN roORS' COrRSli. 

This lesson is devoted to good, hut rather plain cake 
and pastry; and if pupils will take care to learn these re- 
ceipts thoroughly, they will find but little difficulty in fol- 
lowing out the more intricate methods of the next course. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

INGREDIENTvS. 

6 oz. sugar ------ -.5 cents. 

6 " flom* - 3 ' ' 

2 " butter - "^ " 



5 eggs 



o 



1^4 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



% lb. raisins - 3 cents. 

X " currants -.-- -.g*- 

2 oz. citi'on ' - - - - - - -4" 

TotaJ SCJtrents. 

(1.) Set two ounces of butter near enough to i\\e fire to 
grow soft, without becoming oily. (2.) Line a cjike pan 
with buttered paper. (3.) Seed the raisins, wash and dry 
the currants, and cut the citron in small, thin slices. (4.) 
Beat the sugar and two of the eggs to a cream; add two 
more eggs, and beat two minutes; then add the remaining 
i^gg^ and beat two minutes more. (5.) Sift in the flour 
and beat the mixture smooth; then add the butter and 
fruit, beat one minute, and put into (he pan. Bake in a 
moderate oven for about half an houi-. l^e careful not to 
burn the cake. Test it by running a clean Ijrooni straW 
into it when it seems nearly done; if the straw eomeS out 
elemi the eake is sufficiently baked. 

POUND CAKE, 

INGREDIENTS. 

\/^ lb. flour .---.-. 2 centSk 

K " sugar - - - - - - - - 6 " 

K " butter - - 8 " 

6 eggs . w G " 

Total 22 cents. 

(1.) LineaCak6 panwiih buttered patper. (2.) Put the 
buttei\ sugar, and one Q,gg into xi bowl and beat them with 
the hand to a cream; then add the rest of tlie eggs, one at 
ti time, beating the cake with the hand two minuter? after 
each Qgg IS added. (3.) Flavor with twenty drops of Va- 
nilla essence^ (4.) Sift in the flour, beat smooth, put into 
the cake pan and bake about half an hour in a moderate 
oven. Test the Cake with a clean broom straw. 

The practice of beating the cake with the hand is in Vogue 
with many excelleUt pastry cooks; extreme cleanliness is 
indispensable when this method is employed. The above 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE, 



135 



receipt is that of one of tlic best chefs of the New York 
Scliool of Cookery. 

SPONGE CAKE, 

INGKEDIENTS. 

^' '"''• fl'^"'' - * . 2 cents. 

^» " sugar --------5'< 

Ceggs - (5 u 

Lemon rind --.-.... i ^ent 

Total 14 cents. 

(1.) Line a cako pan with buttered paper. (2.) Grate 
the yellow rind of half a lemon. (3.) Put the sugar and 
two eggs into a bowl, and beat them for two minutes; add 
another Qgg and beat two minntes; then add three yolks 
and beat three minutes. (4. ) Beat the whites of three egg^ 
to a stiff froth. (5.) Sift the flour into the cake, mix it 
smooth, add the whites, pour the cake into the buttered 
pan, and bake it in a moderate oven for about half an hour. 
Test the cake with a clean broom straw. 

CRANBERRY PIE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

y^^^-^^^T ^c6nts. 

4 oz. butter --'.--...Qtt 

K Ih. sugar ^ . 5 «c 

1 qt cranberries - - * - . - lo *' 

Total 35 cents. 

(1.) Pick over the berries, wash them in cold water, s^t 
them over the fire with enough cold water to cover them> 
and simmer them gently for fifteen minutes; add the sugar 
and simmer the berries until they are quite soft. Then nib 
them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and cool them. 
(2.) Make a plain paste as directed in the receipt for Ap- 
ple Tarts, on page 63^ lino a pie plate with it, building a 
rim of paste around the edge; fill with cranberry sauce, 
made as above, put some strips of paste across the top in 
diamond-shaped figures, and bake in a moderate oven. 



i;3t> 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



APPLE PIE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

^ lb. flour ------- 2 cents. 

4 oz. butter 8 " 

1 qt. apples - - 5 " 

}^ lb. sugar --3" 

IjBmon -_._---- ] cent. 

Total - - - - , 10 cents. 
(1.) Thc^ apples should be pared, cored, ai)d sliced; 
sometimes they are stewed until tender with the sugar, and 
the yellow rind of half a lemon; and sometimes are simply 
sliced thin and baked in the pie. (2.) Line a pie plate 
with pastry made as directed on page 03, put the api)les into 
it, cover it with pastry, and bake it brown in a moderate 
oven. Just before it is done dust it with powdered sugar, 
and return it to the oven for five minutes to glaze the sur- 
face. 

CREAM MERINGUE PIE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}£ lb. flour - - - - 1 cent. 

1 oz. corn-starch 1 " 

2 " sugar --------4 cents. 

a '' butter 4 " 

(-> eggs ---------6" 

3^' pt. milk • 3 " 

Total ----- 18 cents. 

(1.) Mix together in a sauccp.ln one ounce of corn- 
starch, two ounces of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, a tea- 
spoonful of Vanilla essence, and about half a pint of tnilk; 
put them over the fire, and stir them constantly until they 
have boiled jd)out five minutes. (2.) Line a pie-plate with 
pastry made as directed on page (53, fill it with the ci-eam, 
made as above, bake it in a moderate oven. (3.) Mean- 
lime beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, aiid mix 
gently into it three ounces of powdered sugar. (4.) When 
the pie is done, spread the merwfiue on it, and set it in a 
moderate oven only long enough to just color the top. It 
mav be used either warm or cold. 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 137 



CHAPTP:?t XL 

ELETEXTII LESSONT OF THE PLAIJST COOKS' COUESE. 

This lesson treats of the dislies suitable for sick persons 
which are generally ordered by physicians in illness; and if 
studied in connection with Chapter XII, of the First Arti- 
san Course, beginning on page 58, will give a fair variety 
of wholesome and nourisliing dishes. It must always be 
remembered that no food or drink of any kind should be 
given in cases of dangerous illness, except under the direc- 
tion of the doctor in attendance upon the patient. 

MUTTON BROTH. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. neck of mntton ----- 12 cents. 

2 oz. pearl barley 3 "" 

Seasonings - 1 cent. 

Total ----- 15 cents. 

(1.) Pick over the barley, wash it well in cold water, and 
let it soak in hot water until wanted. (2.) Cut the meat 
from a lean neck of mutton, in small dice, put it over the 
fire in two quarts of cold water, and bring it slowly to a 
boil, skimming it carefully until it is quite clear. (2.) Add 
the barley to the broth, season it with a teaspoonful of salt, 
and let it simmer gently for two hours, until the barley is 
soft. (3.) If the invalid is not strong enough to eat the 
meat, remove it before serving the broth. Follow the ad' 
vice of the physician upon this point, and in regard to sea^ 
soning the broth. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

INGREDIENTS. 

S lbs. chicken - - ^38 cents. 

2 oz. rice and seasonings - - - - - 3 " 

Total 40 cents. 



138 <:00K1NG SCHOOL TEXT BOOK, 



T^ 



(1.) Dress a chicken as directed for fricasMet on page 
84, carefully removing every particle of fat; put it over 
the fire in three quarts of cold water and bring slowly 
to a boil, skimming it until it is clear. Pick over and 
wash \\\Q- rice in cold Avater, add it to the broth wn'th a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and simmer it slowly for two hours. 
Serve the chicken in the broth if the patient is allowed by 
the doctor to eat a little of it. (2.) Make the broth as 
directed above, omitting the rice, strain it at the end of 
two hours, and sei-ve it with Graham crackers. 

BEEF TEA. 

U^c the directions for making Beef Tea, given on page 
60. 

BEEFSTEAK JUICE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 11). tender sij'loin steak . . - - 14 cents. 

Toast 1 cent. 

Total !•'> cente?. 

Broil a juicy ?teak as directed on page 117; lay it on a 
hot platter, cut it in pieces, press out the juice, and pour 
it over a slice of toast, made as directed on jxige 58. Be 
very careful not to season the steak, except with a little 
salt, or use butter with i\\Q^ toast, unless both tu'i^ allowed 
by the physician. 

OATMEAL PORRIDGE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

X lb. oatmeal ------- Scents. 

Sugar, milk, and salt 3 '* 

Total ----- Scents. 

Stir the oatmeal into one quart of boiling water, with one 
teaspoonful of salt; let it boil gently one hour, stirring it 
occasionally to prevent burning. Use it cither hot or cold 
with a little sugar and milk, if permitted by the phy- 
sician. 



THE rLAIN COOKS' VOURSE. 



139 



CHOCOLATE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 oz. Chocolate Scents. 

V pt. milk ^ * 

1 oz. sugar - ^^•^"*- 

Total Scents. 

Grate one ounce of sweet chocolate, mix it smooth with 
three tablespoonfuls of cohl milk, and stir it with the rest 
of the half pint of milk, which should be boiling. After 
adding the chocolate stir the beverage over the fire until 
all the grains are dissolved in the milk; then sweeten jt 
and serve it. 

ICELAND MOSS BLANC-MANGE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

14 oz. Iceland moss ^ cents. 

1 qt. milk '^ " 

Sugar and lemon .------' 

Total 1^ cei^ts. 

(1.) Soak the moss over night in enough cold water to 
well cover it. (2.) Drain it, put it over the fire with enough 
cold milk to cover it, and simmer it gently for one hour, 
with the yellow rind of half a lemon. (3.) Sweeten it to 
taste, strain it through a fine sieve, and cool it in a mould. 
Serve it with milk and sugar. 



CHAPTER XIL 

TWELFTH LESSON OF THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 

Very few cooks, 'even among professionals, nnderstand 
how to cook properly for children. It is the common 
custom in tbis country for tlie little ones to be served 
at the same table and from the same dishes that are pro- 
vided for the adults of the family. This is all wrong, but; 
in this place we cannot discuss the reasons; we can only 



140 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



give directions for prepjiring a few simple and palatable 
dishes which are perfectly wholesome for children. 
BAKED POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes 3 cents. 

Butter and salt - - - - - - - 5 " 

Total Scents. 

Choose smooth, even-sized potatoes, wash them well with 
plenty of cold water, and a brush or cloth, and put them 
into a quick oven to bake: they will cook in from twenty 
to thirty-five minutes, according to variety and ripeness; 
they are done wlien tliey yield easily to pressure between 
the fingers. They should be served the moment they are 
properly cooked, and should never be covered; if they 
stand after they are done they will become heavy, and if 
they are covered they will be watei-y. They should be 
eaten with a little butter and salt, 

BROILED CHOPS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. mutton chops - - - - - 12 cents. 

14 oz. butter and salt - - - - - - 1 cent. 

Total ----- 13 cents. 

Carefully study the directions for broiling meat, given on 
page IIT, and cook the chops in accordance with them, first 
trimming off all superfluous fat. Put them on a hot dish, 
season them lightly with w. little butter, pepper and salt, 
and serve them Avitli baked potatoes. 

BAKED APPLES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

. 1 qt. apples --------.5 cents. 

3 oz. sugar -------- 2 " 

Spice and butter - - - - - - 1 cent. 

Total S cents. 

Wash the fruit, remove the cores without breaking? the 



THE PLAIN COOKS' COURSE. 141 



apples, and set them in a pan just large enough to hold 
them; fill the cores with sugar, and put a very little spice 
and a small bit of butter on each apple; put half a cup of 
hot water in the pan, and bake the a])ples until tender in • 
a moderate oven. Do not break them in changing them 
into the dish in which they are to go to the table; pour the 
juice in the pan over them, and serve them either hot or 
cold. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

INGREDIENTS. 

>^ lb. tapioca ------- 3 cents. 

4 oz. sugar .------ 3 '* 

3 eggs - - o 

V4 pts. milk ------- (> *' 

Total 15 cents. 

(1.) Put the tapioca over the fire in a pint of milk, and 
let it heat and soften gradually, stirring it often enough to 
prevent burning. {"2.) When the tapioca is soft, beat to- 
gether the eggs and sugar, add the cold milk and the tapi- 
oca, and bake the pudding about half an hour in a moder- 
ate oven. Use either hot or cold. 

APPLES AND RICE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. api)les - - - - 5 cents. 

>^ lb. rice ---.---- 5 " 
3< " sugar -------- 3 *' 

Total 13 cents. 

(1.) Pare, halve, and core the apples, put them over the 
fire with the sugar and enough cold water to cover them, 
and stew them gently only until tender, but do not let them 
break. (2.) Meantime pick over the rice, wash it in cold 
water, put it into pleuty of boiling water containing a ta- 
blespoonful of salt, and boil it rapidly until tender. (3.) 
Shake the rice out on a dish, form it into' a mound with a 
couple of forks, handling it lightly and quickly; lay the 



142 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



apples on it and pour over them the syrup in which they 
were cooked^ 

APPLE CUSTARDS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. apples .-....- 5 cents. 

6 oz. sugar -- 5" 

1 qt. milk 8 " 

5 eggs 5 " 

Total 23 cents. 

Pare and core six apples, set them in a pan with a very 
little water, and stew them until tender; then put them in 
a pudding dish without breaking, fill the centers with su- 
gar, and pour over them a custard made according to the 
receipt on i)age 72, of a quart of milk, five eggs, four ounces 
of sugar, and a very little nutmeg; set the pudding-dish in 
a baking-^])an half full of water, and bake it about half an 
hour* Serve it either hot or cold at the noon dinner. 




THE LADIES' COURSE. 143 



PART IV. 



CHAPTER I. 

FIRST LESSON OP THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Tins courso of lessons lias been Ciiref ally adapted for the 
use of those ladies who desire to combine some of the 
elegancies of artistic cookei-y with those ecunomical inter- 
ests which it is the duty of every housewife to study. The 
lirst reading of the bills of fare may seem to indicate the 
necessity for the possession of considerable culinary skill 
on the part of our pupils; but four years' experience lias 
proven that any intelligent hidy who understands the sim- 
pler dishes of the preceding courses, need not hesitate to 
attempt the making of those included in the present one. 
There have been too many mysteries attached to culinary 
proliciency, and it has been our satisfaction to make most 
of them plain to our pupils; if they will only take pains to 
master the instruction we have already given in this book, 
they may begin this course of lessons with perfect con- 
fidence in their ability to surmount its seeming difficul- 
ties. 

We believe that no explanation is needed of the foreign 
character of many of the dishes, because Americans are 
beginning to comprehend the economical and gastronomi- 
cal advantages of European Cookery; we have not attempt- 
ed to Anglicize the names, because in most instances tlicy 
are indicative of the peculiarities of the dif 'erent dishes. 



144 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



Consomme a, la Royale. 

Baked Carp loith Spanish Sauce. 

Potatoes a la Royale, 

Breast of Lamh itntli Bechamel Sauce* 

Cauliflower au gratuu 

Roast Beef. 

Salade a la Rom aim. 

Apple Meringues. 



CONSOMME A LA BO YALE. 
INGREDIENTS. 

Consomme - 31 cents. 

8 eggs --------- 8 " 

Seasonings ------- 1 cent. 

Total 40 cents. 

(1.) Make a consomme as directed on page lOG, taking care 
that it is clear and bright, of a delicate straw color, and very 
lightly seasoned. {2.) Make a Royale paste as follows: 
beat together the yolks of eight eggs, half a pint of consom- 
'tne, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of salt and gi-ited 
nutmeg. Put this custard into a buttered, shallow mould, 
set the mould into a pan containing warm water enough to 
reach half way up its sides, cover it, and put it over a very 
slow tire, or into a moderate oven, until the custard is firm. 
Then cool it, turn it from the mould, cut it in \o\\^ dia- 
moiids, in strips an inch long and quarter of an inch wide, 
or in half inch dice, and serve it in the hot consomme. 

BAKED CARP WITH SPANISH SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. caip - - 45 cents. 

Materials for Bailee - - - - - 15 " 

Total - - - . - 60 cents. 

(1.) Make a Spanish Sauce as directed on page 71, add- 
ing to it a teasi)oonful of sugar, and using good stock in- 
stead of water to boil the vegetables in. (2.) Dress a carp, 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 145 

which is a spocies of hirge, gold-colored fish of rather dry 
flesh, for baking; lay it iii a dripping pan on a few scraps 
of vegetables, season it with a teaspoouful of salt and half 
a saltspoonful of pepper, pour over it a gill of stock or 
gravy, and bake it half an hour. (3.) Strain a little of 
the Spanish Sauce on a dish, lay the fish in it witho-ut 
breaking, lay the potatoes a la Rot/ale around it on the 
dish; garnish it with parsley, and send it to the table with 
more of the Sauce in a sauce boat. 

POTATOES A LA ROYALE. 

INGBEDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes -------3 cents. 

Pare some large, sound potatoes, cut them in balls 
about three quarters of an inch in diameter, brown them 
in the oven, and use them with the Baked Carp. 

, BREAST OF LAMB WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE. 

INGEEDIENTS. 

3 lbs. breast of lamb ----- 24 cents. 

1^" pork 3 " 

1 oz. butter 3 " 

1 lemon 3" 

Vegetables and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Materials for sauce 4 '* 

Total 37 cents. 

(1.) Bone a breast of lamb by cutting from the under 
part, and taking care not to mangle the flesh. (2.) Roll 
it up compactly and secure it with a stout cord. (3.) Put 
it into a saucepan with the butter, the pork sliced and laid 
in the bottom of the pan, the bones of the lamb and a few 
scraps of soup vegetables, laying the meat on the other in- 
gredients, and squeezing the juice of one lemon over it. 
Cover it with hot water, season it with a teaspoonful of 
salt, a blade of mace, four pepper corns, and four cloves; 
lay a cloth over the saucepan, put on the cover, and simmer 
it gently for one hour, or until the lamb is tender. (4. ) Make 
a Bechamel Sauce as directed on page 129, put a little of it 



146 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

Oil a disli, juid lay the lamb on it, after removing the 

strings; pour some more Becliawel over it, and serve it 

hot. 

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 cauliflower - - 15 cents. 

Bechamel sauce - - - - - - -3" 

1 oz. Parmesan cheese - - - - - 3 " 

Butter, bread crumbs and seasonings - • 3 " 

Total 31 cents. 

(1.) Trim a cauliflower, and lay it top down in cold, 
salted water for one hour, to freshen it, and free it from 
insects. (2.) Put it to boil in boiling water enough to 
cover it, with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil it only un- 
til tender, about twenty minutes. (3.) Take it up with- 
out breaking, lay it on a gratin dish, or one that can be 
sent to the table, pour a gill of Bechamel sauce over it, dust 
it with sifted bread crumbs and grated Parmesan, dot it 
over with bits of butter, and brown it quickly. Serve it 

hot. 

ROAST BEEF. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 lbs. ribs of beef --..-- 96 cents. 
Vegetables, flour, and seasonings - - - 4 " 

Total ----- $1.00 
(1.) Have ribs of prime beef prepared by the butcher for 
roasting, all the bones being taken out if it is desirable to 
carve a clean slice off the top; secure it in place with stout 
twine; do not use skewers, as the unnecessary holes they 
make permit the meat-juices to escape. (3.) Lay it in 
the dripjoing pan on a bed of the following vegetables, cut 
in small pieces; one small onion, half a carrot, half a tur- 
nip, three sprigs of parsley, one sprig of thyme, and three 
bay leaves; do not put any water in the dripiying pan; its 
temperature can Jiot rise to a degree equal in heat to that 
of the fat outside of the beef, and can not assist in its cook- 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 147 

ing, but serves only to lower the tempeniture of the meat, 
where it touches it, and consequently to soften the surface 
and extract the juices. (3. ) Do not season it until the surface 
is partly carhonized hy the heat, as salt applied to the cut 
libers draws out their juices. If you use a roasting oven be- 
fore the fire, the meat should be similarly prepared by tying 
in place and it should be put on the spit carefully; sufficient 
drippings for basting will flow from it, and it should be 
seasoned when half done; when entirely done, which will be 
in from fifteen to twenty minutes to each pound of meat, 
the joint should be kept hot until served, but should be 
served as soon as possible to be good. (4.) When gravy is 
made, half a pint of hot water sliould be put into the drip- 
ping pan, after the vegetables have been removed, and the 
gravy should be boiled briskly for a few minutes, until it is 
thick enough, and seasoned to suit the palate of the family; 
some persons thicken it with a teaspoonful of flour, which 
sliould be mixed with a gill of cold water before it is stirred 
into the gravy. 

SALADE A LA ROMAINE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 head of lettuce - 5 cents. 

Materials for Romaine dressing - - - - 5 " 

Total 10 cents. 

(1. ) Freshen a head of lettuce as directed on page 49. 
(2.) Tear the leaves apart ^\\t\\ the fingers, but do not cut 
them, as that impairs their crispness and flavor; arrange 
the salad in a dish and pour over it the dressing made as 
follows. (3.) Grate half an ounce of onion, mix it with a 
teaspoonful of lemon juice, a saltspoonful each of salt and 
powdered sugar, a level saltspoonful each of white pepper 
and dry mustard, and then gradually stir into these ingre- 
dients three tablespoonfuls of oil and one of vinegar. 



148 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

APPLE MERINGUES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. small apples 5 cents. 

yi lb. powdered sugar - - - - - 3 " 

4 eggs ---------4'* 

Butter and spice 1 cent. 

Total ------ 13 cents. 

(1.) Pure the apjiles, remove the cores witliout breaking 
them, set them on a dish that can be sent to the table, fill 
them with sugar, lay a bit of butter and a very little spice 
on each one, and bake them jnst tender, but do not let them 
break. (2.) Beat the whites of four eggs to a stiJff froth, 
stir three ounces of powdered sugar lightly into it, put it 
over tlie apples, rounding it well; just color it in a moder- 
ate oven. Use either hot or cold. The meringue will fall 
a little ii« it cools. 



CHAPTER 11. 

SECOND LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Puree of Salmon. 

Filets of Bass a la Royale. 

Julienne Potatoes. 

Fricandeau of Veal. 

Rizotta a la Milanaise. 

Roast Ham with Chamjjagne Sauce. 

Celery a la Garclinale. 

Crmne Reverse, 



PUREE OF SALMON. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. salmon 25 cents. 

3 qts. milk 16 " 

2 oz. butter 4 " 

Flour and seasonings - - - - - 1 " 

Total _-,--» 46 cents. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 149 

(1.) Put the salmon to boil iii boiling water with a level 
tablespoonful of salt to each quart of water; boil it fifteen- 
minutes, then take it up, cool it, remove the skin and 
bones, and rub it through a sieve with a wooden spoon. 
(2.) Make a white soup as follows: put two quarts of 
milk over the fire to boil; mix together over the fire two 
ounces eacli of butter and flour until they begin to bubljle, 
then gradually add the boiling milk; season the soup with 
a level teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful 
each of white pepper and nutmeg, and let it come to a boil. 
(3.) As soon as the soup boils, stir the salmon puree into 
it, and serve it at once. 

FILETS OF BASS A LA ROYALE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. bass --- 30 cents. 

Materials for marinade - - - - - 5 " 

Materials for batter - - - - - 5 " 

Prawns and parsley - - - - - - 7 *' 

Lard for frying - - - - - - 3 " 

Total ----- 50 cents. 

(1.) Prepare the filets of bass as directed for the filets of 
flounder on page 32; lay them for three or four hours in 
the following marinade or pickle, turning them over every 
twenty minntes. (2.) Make the marinade by mixing in 
a plate two tablespoonfuls each of oil and vinegar, a level 
teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
lay the filets in it. (3. ) Make a frying batter as directed 
on page 51. Drop the filets into the batter, lift them out 
with a fork, and fry them golden brown in smoking hot 
fat. Lay them on brown paper for a moment to free them 
from fat, and serve them on a napkin, garnished with pars- 
ley and prawns. 

JULIENNE POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes -- 3 cents. 

Lard for frying - - 3" 

Total 6 cents. 



150 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Pare the potatoes, slice them thin with a crimping 
knife, and lay them in Avell-salted cold Avater for at least 
an hour. (2.) Wash them through two waters, and dry 
them on a clean towel. (3.) Fry them golden brown in 
smoking hot fat, lay them on brown paper a moment to 
free them from fat, and serve them hot. 
FRICANDEAU OP VEAL. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. veal --------40 cents. 

X lb. larding pork - - - - - - 5 " 

Vegetables and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

3^ peck spinach - - - - - - -20" 

Total 67 cents. 

(1.) Choose a thick, compact slice of veal from about the 
middle of the leg, and lard it as follows: cut the pork in 
strips an eighth of an inch thick, and two inches long; lay 
the veal on a folded towel on the left hand; put a strip of 
pork in the larding needle, and take a stitch with it in the 
upper surface of the veal; as you draw the needle out the 
strip of poi'k, or lardoon, will remain in the meat. Insert 
thelardoons in even rows along the cutlet, making as many 
rows as its widtli Avill permit. (2.) Put into a pan some 
scraps of vegetables and the trimmings of pork; lay the 
cutlet on them and cook it in a moderate oven, taking care 
not to let it burn, and seasoning it when half done, with 
white pepper and salt. (3.) Meantime dress the spinach 
as directed on page 109; just when the veal is done, warm 
the spinach with a tablespoonful of butter and a saltspoon- 
ful of salt; or take up the meat and keep it hot while you 
strain its gravy, and warm tlie spinach in it. (4.) Arrange 
the 7;?(n% of spinach neatly on a dish, lay the fricandeau 
on the spinach and serve it hot. 

RIZOTTA A LA MILANAISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

% lb. rice ------- 5 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 *' 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 151 

}4 pt. gravy ------- 5 cents. 

Cold tongue --------5" 

Fat for frying ------- 3 " 

Total - 20 cents. 

There are several metliodsof cooking rice after the Mila- 
naise style, any of wliicli makes a delicious dish. (1.) Fry 
half a pound of dry, uncooked rice, with one ounce of chop- 
ped onion in a tablespoonful of butter, stirring it constant- 
ly until brown; then add a pint of gravy, season with salt, 
pepper, and cayenne, and stew fifteen or twenty minutes 
until the rice is tender. (2.) Boil the rice until tender in 
boiling water, and then drain it dry; fry it golden brown 
in plenty of smoking-liot fat, and then pour gravy over it. 
Cooked in either way and mixed with cold tongue, shredded 
apart with two forks, it is sometimes well shaken down in 
a buttered mould, heated in tiie oven, and turned out be- 
fore serving. (3.) Cook as for number 2, substituting cold 
chicken for tlie tongue. The dish is excellent in any of 

these forms. 

ROAST HAM WITH CHAMPAGNE SAUCK 

INGREDIENTS, 

7 lb. ham -.-_-.- 98 cents. 

Onions, bread crumbs and seasonings - - 3 " 
^ pt. American champagne - - - - 25 " 

Total - - . - $1.26 

(1.) Cook the ham as directed on page 121. (2.) Make 
the sauce as directed for Madeira Sauce, on page 122, sub- 
stituting lialf a pint of native Champagne for the Madeira 
wine. Serve as directed on page 122. 

CELERY A LA CARDINALE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 bunch of celery ------ 15 (»nts. 

3 eggs -------- 3 " 

1 lemon 2" 

1 red beet 2" 

Oil, vinegar and seasonings - - - - 15 " 

Total - - - - - 37 cents. 



152 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

Choose the white, tender stalks of celery, wash them 
well, cut them in three-inch lengths, lay them in a pile 
in the middle of the salad bowl, and cover them with Car- 
dinal Sauce. Decorate the salad with the young leaves of 
celery, arranging them so that light and dark leaves con- 
trast prettily; and add, if desired, two cold hard-boiled 
eggs, cut in quarters. 

Cardinal Sauce, — Wash a red beet without breaking the 
skin or cutting off the top or roots; boil it until tender 
in boiling water, well salted; peel it, chop it fine, rub it 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and i^ut it on a sau- 
cer. Make a mayonnaise* sauce as follows: put into a bowl 
the yolk of one raw Qgg, one level teaspoonful each of salt 
and dry mustard, one level saltspoonful of white pepper, 
the juice of half a lemon, and as much cayenne pepper as 
can be taken up on the point of a small penknife-blade. 
Mix these ingredients smooth with a wooden spoon; then 
add, drop by drop, stirring constantly, three gills of salad- 
oil and the juice of half a lemon. When the oil is two- 
thirds used begin to add vinegar, using in all four table- 
spoonfuls. When the mayonnaise is thick and smooth 
stir in enough of the beet, prepared as above, to make it ?, 
bright red color; then spread it thickly over the salad and 
keep it cool for use. 

CREME REVERSE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 eggs 6 cents. 

}4 lb- powdered sugar - - - - - 3 " 

1 pt. milk -------- 4 " 

Flavoring --------i cent. 

Total ----- 14 cents. 
(1.) Put one teaspoonful of powdered sugar in the bottom 
of a plain tin mould, set it on the stove and turn it about 
as the sugar melts, so that it can run evenly over the bot- 
tom of the mould. As soon as it browns slightly, take the 

* In French mayonnaise^ no mustard is used. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 153 

mould off the fire and let it cool. (2.) Make a custard by 
beating together six eggs, quarter of a pound of powdered 
sugar, one pint of milk, and one teaspoonful of the essence 
of Vanilla. (3.) Strain this custard into the mould, set 
the mould in a dripping-pan containing sufficient hot water 
to reach two-thirds up the sides of the mould, and bake the 
custard in a moderate oven about thirty minutes, or until 
it is quite firm. (4.) Then cool it, set it on the ice until 
it is very cold, and serve it cold. In turning it out of the 
mould, choose a dish the center of which will just cover the 
top of the mould, put it over the mould, and then, holding 
both firmly, so that they cannot slip, turn them over, 
the mould remaining upside down on the dish. Lift it off 
carefully, and the custard will remain on the dish. It is 
very pretty in appearance and very nice. 



CHAPTER III. 

THIRD LESSOi^ OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Moch Turtle Soup Stock. 

Halibut Neck a la Creole, 

Broiled Potatoes, 

Salmon Croquettes. 

Oyster Plant Saute aux Fines Herhes, 

Canton of Lamh a la Jardiniere, 

Salade a la Russe. 

Cabinet Pudding. 



MOCK TURTLE SOUP STOCK. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 calf's head .--.--- 50 cents. 
Soup vegetables and seasonings - - - - 5 *' 

Total 55 cents. 

(1.) Choose a fresh calf's head, which may be known by 



154 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK, 

the clear wliite skin. As the head gets stale the skin 
becomes discolored and muddy in appearance, and the 
odor betrays its age. Carefully remove all hairs, and wipe 
with a clean damp cloth. Lay the head upon its face, 
make a cut from the throat to the edge of tlie lower jaw; 
then cut the skin carefully from the head, keeping it as 
whole as possible, and lay it in cold water. (2.) Eemove 
the tongue whole, and lay that in cold water. (3.) With a 
sharp meat-saw cut out that portion of "the head between 
tlie ears and above the eyes, and lift the piece out careful- 
ly, so as to take out the brain without breaking it. Lay 
the brain in cold water, well salted, in a bowl by itself. 
{See receipt for " Tongue and Brains,^^ in next cliapter.) 
(4.) Cut tlie head through the center; remove the lining 
of the nasal passage and scald it thoroughly; then put it 
in the bottom of the soup-kettle. (5.) Roll the tongue in 
the skin, tie the roll loosely with twine, and lay it on the 
bones. Cover them with eight quarts of cold water. Set 
the kettle over the fire and bring tlie contents slowly to a 
boil, skimming off all the scum that rises. (6.) When the 
broth is quite clear, remove the kettle to tlie side of the 
fire, where it will boil slowly from one side. Pare and 
add to it one medium-sized carrot, one turnip, and one 
onion stuck with ten whole cloves. Tie up in a fine cloth 
three blades of mace, eight allspice, one large bay-leaf, and 
half a nutmeg broken up, and put into the soup. Make a 
houquet by tying tightly together one ounce each of celery 
and parsley, one sprig each of thyme, savory, and tan-agon, 
and the yellow rind of one lemon pared off in a thin strip, 
and add it to the soup, together with one ounce of salt and 
as much cayenne pepper as can be taken up on the point 
of a small penknife-blade. Boil slowly and steadily. 
(7.) When the skin and tongue are tender enough to pierce 
easily with a fork, which will be in about one hour, re- 
move them, dip them for an instant in scalding hot water; 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 155 

remove the skin from the tongue, Lry them on a dish and 
cover them with a wet cloth, to keep them moist until 
wanted for use. Boil the soup six hours in all. (8.) Then 
strain it and let it cool. If you do not wish to use the 
head and brains until the soup is cool, put them in the 
bottom of the earthen jar or bowl into which the soup is 
strained. They will be perfectly preserved by this method. 

HALIBUT NECK A LA CREOLE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

8 lbs. halibut neck - - - - - - 18 cents. 

Tomatoes --• ..--- 5" 

1 oz. butter ----- -2" 

Vegetables and seasonings - - - - - 3 " 

Total 27 cents. 

Halibut neck is esteemed quite liighly by gourmands. It 
is generally much cheaper than the more solid parts of the 
fish, and is delicious wlien cooked as follows: wash and 
trim three pounds of halibut neck; put it into a dripping- 
pan, with two ounces of chopped onion, one teaspoonf ul of 
salt, one saltspoonf ul of chopped garlic, half that quantity 
of white pepper, and one pound of peeletl sliced tomato, 
either fresh or canned; dust the fish well with powdered 
crackers or dried bread-crumbs, dot it over with one table- 
spoonful of butter, and bake it twenty minutes in a quick 
oven. When done, lay the fish on a hot platter, put the 
tomato, etc., around it, and garnish it with a few cresses 

or sprigs of parsley. 

" BROILED POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt, potatoes .------3 cents. 

Butter and seasonings - • - - - - 2 " 

Total _ - _ - - 5 cents. 

(1.) Wash the potatoes thorouglily, boil them in their 
jackets, and let them cool before peeling them, to keep 
them rather moist. (2.) Peel the potatoes, slice them half 



156 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

an inch thick, broil them on a buttered gridiron, and 
serve them hot with butter, pepper, and salt. 

SALMON CROQUETTES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

)4 lb- salmon -- 12 cents. 

1 pt. milk 4 " 

3 oz. butter - 4 " 

4 eggs -------- 4" 

1 gill Madeira 13 " 

Flour, seasonings, and bread crumbs - - - 5 " 

Lard for frying - ----- 3 " 

Total - 45 cents. 

(1.) Tear some cold salmon in shreds with two forks. 
(2.) Chop a level teaspoonful of onion, put it over the fire 
in a saucepan with the butter, and let it begin to turn yel- 
low. (3.) Stir two ounces of flour into the onion and butter, 
and when the mixture begins to bubble, gradually add one 
pint of boiling milk, and stir till smooth. (4.) Add tlio 
salmon, a level teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoon- 
ful each of white pepper and nutmeg, the yolks of four i-aw 
eggs, and a gill of wine, and mix over the fire for two min- 
utes. (5.) Turn the croquette mixture out an inch thick 
on an oiled dish, and let it cool. (6.) Make up the cro- 
quettes as directed on page 87, fry them golden brown, and 
garnish them with fried parsley. 

Fried Parsley is prepared by washing some nice sprigs of 

parsley, shaking it in a clean cloth until it is quite dry, and 

plunging it into fat heated to about 400° Fain*., only until 

it is crisp. Parsley is also crisped by laying it on paper 

before a clear fire, and turning it frequently, until it is 

done. 

OYSTER PLANT SAUTE AUX FINES HERBES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 bunch oyster plant - . - - 10 cents. 

1 oz. butter -------- 2 " 

Herbs and seasonings - - - 3 " 

Total 15 cents. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 157 

(1.) Scrape the oyster plant, splitting each root and lay- 
ing it in cold water as soon as it is scraped, to keep it 
white, and when all is done, boil it in boiling water con- 
taining a tablespoonful of salt, nntil it is tender. (2.) 
Chop line one tablespoonfnl each of parsley, onions and 
mnshrooms, and heat them over the fire in a frying-pan 
with an ounce of butter. (3.) Meantime dry the oyster 
plant on a clean towel, and when the butter is hot, throw 
the oyster plant into the pan, and toss it about nntil it is 
brown. Season it lightly with salt and pepper, and serve 

^ ^^ * CANTON OF LAMB A LA JARDINIERE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. shoulder of lamb ----- 50 cents. 

Materials for forcemeat 5 ' 

Vegetables for garnish - - - • - 20 " 

Total '^5 cents. 

(1.) Prepare a canton from a shoulder of lamb, as di- 
rected on page 120. (2.) Meantime, make the jardiniere 
as follows: peel a carrot and a turnip, and cut them in 
diamonds; cut half a pint of string beans in the same 
shapes; cut half a pint of small flowerets from a cauli- 
flower; use half a pint of green peas, or asparagus heads; 
boil all these vegetables separately in boiling water and salt 
until tender, and then lay them in cold water until wanted. 
(3.) When the lamb is done make the sauce as directed on 
page 121, heat the jardiniere in it, and serve arranged 
around the canton. 

SALADEA LA RVSSE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Vegetables 10 cents. 

Salad dressmg ' 

Total 15 cents. 

(1.) Shell one pint of green peas, pare one carrot and 
two white turnips, slice them one inch thick, stamp them 



158 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

in little cylinders with a small tin tube, and boil tlieni as 
directed in the previous receipt. (2.) Arrange them neat- 
ly on a salad dish and dress them with the following salad 
sauce: mix together one tablespoonful of vinegar, three 
of oil, half a level teaspoonful of salt, and a very little pep- 
per. Pour it over the salad just before you serve it. 

CABINET PUDDING. 

INGREDIENTS, 

X lb. candied cherries ----- 20 cents. 

2 oz. citron --------4" 

X lb- macaroons - - - - - - 15 " 

Sponge cake - - -10" 

1 pt. milk -------- 4 " 

}4 oz. gelatine ------ -3" 

1 lemon - 2 " 

3 oz. powdered sugar - - - - - - 2 '* 

Total 60 cents. 

(1.) Soak the gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of cold 
water until it is soft, and then put it over the fire in a sauce- 
pan with the milk, sugar, and the yelloAvrind of the lemon 
cut very thin, and let it heat thoroughly, stirring occasion- 
ally until the gelatine and sugar are dissolved. (2.) Cut 
the citron in thin slices. Butter a plain pudding mould 
rather thickly with cold butter, and ornament the bottom 
and sides bv placing some of the fruit against them in some 
pretty shape. (3.) Place the remaining fruit and the cake 
in the mould in alternate layers, and then strain the milk 
into the mould. Set it where it will cool and grow firm, 
which will be in four or five hours, and then turn it out of 
the mould and serve it cold. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 159 



CHAPTER IV. 

FOURTH LESSOif OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Moch Turtle Sonp. 

Crimped Cod a la Colbert. 

Parisienne Potatoes. 

Calf's Tongue and Brains ivith Tartar Sauce, 

Jerusalem Artichokes. 

Artichokes with Butter 8auce. 

Calf's Head a la Poulette. 

Anchovy Salad. 

Omelette Soufflee — Chocolate Souffiee. 



MOCK TURTLE SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Calf's Head stock - 

1 oz. butter 2 cents. 

2 eggs -------- 2' 

1 lemon -------- 2 

1 gill of Madeira wine - - - - - 13 " 
Soup vegetables and seasonings - - - 3 " 

Total 22 cents. 

When tlie stock is quite cold, tlie fut which has collected 
upon the surface must be removed, and then the stock will 
be ready to finish as follows: 

(1.) Take out the skin and tongue, and heat the stock. 
(2.) Cut the best part of the skin into regular pieces about 
two inches square, and save it, with the ears, for Calfs 
Head a la Poulette. Cut the rest of the head in half inch 
dice. (3.) Put an ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour 
in a thick saucepan over the fire, and stir until light brown. 
When the flour and butter are brown gradually add one 
quart of tiie stock to them, stirring the mixture until it is 



160 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

smooth; then add to it a small bay-leaf, a small onion 
stuck with three cloves, two ounces of carrot, and the fol- 
lowing seasonings: two sage leaves, one small blade of 
mace, one sprig of thyme, and three sprigs each of parsley 
and marjoram. Boil all these ingredients slowly for half 
an hour; then strain and add to the soup stock, which 
must meantime have been set by the side of the fire, to 
boil very gently. If any scum rises, remove it instantly, for 
the soup should be clear and bright. Eeserve a quart of 
the stock for Calf's Head a la Poulette', then put in the 
dice of Calf's Head already cut ; if the soup is not brown 
color it with a little caramel. Boil two eggs hard, cool 
them, remove the shells and Avhites, chop the yolks in 
small dice, and put them into a soup tureen, with one gill 
of Sherry or Madeira wine and the juice of one lemon, 
and pour the soup over them. Thin slices of lemon may 
be passed with the soup. 

CRIMPED COD A LA COLBERT. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. codfish - -12 cents. 

Egg and bread crumbs 2 " 

Materials for ?77ai/re d'/io^eZ butter - - 5 " 
Vegetables and seasonings for sauce - - - 5 " 
1 gill M bite wine - - - - - - -13" 

Fat for frying 3 " 

Total- - - - - - 40 cents. 

(1.) Skin the codfish, remove the bones, and cut the 
fish in small thin slices; lay them in well salted cold water 
for one hour. (2.) Meantime make a fish essence by boil- 
ing the skin and bones with half a carrot and an onion 
sliced, a houquet of herbs, six cloves, two bay leaves and a 
pint of hot water; boil the essence rapidly until it is re- 
duced to a gill, then add the wine, strain it, and keep it 
hot by setting the saucepan containing it into another half 
full of boiling water. (3.) Bread the slices of fish and fry 
them as directed on page 33; spread them lightly with 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 161 



maitre dliotel butter, made as directed on page 34, and 
serve them on a little of the fish essence on a hot dish. 

PARISIENNE POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3 cents. 

Fat for frying __-----3" 

Parsley and salt 1 cent. 

Total 7 cents. 

(1.) Pare a quart of potatoes, cut them in balls about an 
inch in diameter, either with a knife or with a round vege- 
table scoop, laying them in cold water as fast as they are 
cut, and saving all the trimmings in water for mashed or 
Duchesse potatoes. (2.) When all the balls are cut, drop 
them into salted boiling water, only until they begin to 
grow tender; then drain them, lay them for a moment on 
a clean, dry cloth, and fry them a golden brown in smok-^ 
ing hot fat; drain them on brown paper, sprinkle them 
with chopped j^arsley, and salt and serve them hot. 

CALF'S TONGUE AND BRAINS WITH TARTAR SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Calf's tongue and brains ----- 

Materials for sauce ------ 5 cents. 

Vinegar and parsley ------ 1 cent. 

Total 6 cents. 

The method of preparing the tongue has already been 
described in the receipt for Mock Turtle Soup, on page 
159. The brain, in the same receipt, was directed to be 
laid in salted water. After it has been in the water one 
hour, the thin skin or membrane covering its soft inner 
substance must be removed so carefully as to avoid break- 
ing it. It should then be put into a saucepan over the 
fire, witli one quart of cold water, one teaspoonful of salt 
and one tablespoonful of vinegar, and allowed to parboil 
fifteen minutes. It will then be ready for use. 

The tongue and brains are generally served cold — the 



162 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

tongue being hiid in the center of a dish, the brains cut in 
two pieces and placed at the sides of the tongue, and some 
Tartar Sauce pat around them on the base of tlie dish. 
Some bits of parsley may be used for garnishing the dish. 

Tartar Sauce. — P^^t the yolk of a raw egg into a bowl 
with one level teaspoonful of dr}'^ mustard, one level salt- 
spoonful of salt, and as much cayenne pc^^pcr as can be 
taken up on tlie point of a small penknife-blade; stir these 
ingredients with a wooden salad-spoon or spatula until they 
are smooth; then add, a few drops at a time, one gill of 
salad oil and three tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, stirring 
quickly all the time. When the sauce is thick and smooth, 
add the following ingredients to it and keep it cool until 
wanted for use; one tablespoonful each of chopped parsley, 
capers and gherkin, and one teaspoonful of chopped 

onion. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. artichokes ______ 20 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Flour, vinegar and seasonings - - - 3 " 

Total ----- 25 cents. 

(1.) Scrape the artichokes, throwing them into two 
quarts of cold water containing a gill of vinegar, to keep 
them white; boil them in boiling water well salted, only 
until tender, and then put them into a Bechamel Sauce, 
made as directed on pnge 41. Serve them hot. 

ARTICHOKES WnH BUTTER SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 artichokes ___-_-- 50 cents. 

3 oz. butter - - - 6 " 

Flour and seasonings - - - » - 1 cent. 

Total _ . - - - 57 cents. 

(1.) Wash the artichokes, which somewhat resemble 
large thistle heads, in cold water, changing the water sev- 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 163 

enil times; trim tlie leaves and the bottoms, or stalk ends, 
and put them with the leaves down in plenty of well salted 
boiling water. Boil them until tender, from half an hour 
to an liour and a half, according to the age of the arti- 
choke; to test tliem, pull out a leaf; if it comes away easily 
tlie artichoke is .done. (2.) When they are done, drain 
them on a sieve, and then let them lay in cold water for 
five minutes. Take eacli artichoke successively in the left 
hand, and pressing the leaves apart at the top with the 
handle of a tablespoon, remove the clioke, or fibrous sub- 
stance in the center of the leaves. (3.) Put the artichokes 
again in boiling water to heat while the sauce is being 
made. (4.) Make a B echa7)iel sa,\\ce as directed on page 
129, and add to it two ounces of butter and a tablespoonful 
of lemon juice. (5.) Drain the artichokes from the hot 
water, dish them on a napkin, put a tablespoonful of the 
butter sauce in each one, and send the rest in a sauce-boat 
to the table with them. 

CALFS HEAD A LA POULETTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Calf's head ------- 

2 oz. butter -_.--, -4 cents. 

3 eggs - 3" 

Parsley, flour, and seasonings - - - 3 " 

Total - - . _ _ 10 cent^ 

(1.) Put the pieces of the head reserved in making the 
Mock Turtle Soup, over the fire to heat in a quart of the 
stock. (2.) Make a sauce as follows: stir together in a 
saucepan over the fire two ounces or tablespoonfuls each of 
butter and flour until they are smoothly blended; then 
gradually add a pint of hot stock, stirring until smooth; 
season with quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, a 
saltspoonful of salt, or more if required by taste, and as 
much cayenne pepper as can be taken up on the point of a 
small penknife-blade. Let the sauce begin to bubble after 



164 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



it is seasoned, then move it to the side of the fire, and stir 
in the yolks of three eggs, one at a time. Then pnt in the 
calf's head. Do not let the sauce boil, or it may curdle. 
(3.) When ready to nse, dish with the ears in the middle, 
a little raised; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over it, and 
garnish it with sprigs of parsley. 

ANCHOVY SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Anchovies .-_---- 20 cents. 

5 eggs __-- _-_5" 

Parsley, oil, vinegar, and seasonings - - 5 " 

Total 30 cents. 

(1.) Soak the anchovies over night in cold water. (2.) 
Eemove the scales and bones, and cut them in thin pieces. 
(3.) Boil five eggs hard; cool them; remove the shells, 
cut three of them in quarters for the garuish, and chop 
two fine, keeping the whites and yolks separate. (4.) Lay 
the anchovy filets, eggs, and parsley in alternate layers 
upon a salad dish, dress with two tablespoonfuls of oil 
and one of vinegar, and serve the salad. 

OMELETTE SOUFFLEE, 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 eggs __----_--4 cents. 
3 oz. powdered sugar - - - - - 2 " 

Vanilla flavoring - - - - - - 1 " 

Total - - ^ - - 7 cents. 

(1.) Mix to a cream the sugar, the yolks of two eggs, 
and a teaspoonful of Vanilla essence. (2.) Beat four whites 
to a stiff froth. (3.) Gently stir the yolks and sugar into 
the whites, put the mixture by the tablespoonful on a but- 
tered gratin dish, or soufflee pan, and bake it golden brown 
in a moderate oven, dusting it with powdered sugar when 
it is half done; serve it the instant it is done, or it will fall. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 165 

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLEE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 eggs 4 cents. 

3 oz. powdered sugar - - - - - 2 " 
J^ oz. chocolate ----- -1" 

Total 7 cents. 

(1.) Grate the cliocohite and mix it with the yolks and 
sugar. (2.) Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and finish the 
soufflee as directed in the previous receipt. 



CHAPTER V. 

FIFTH LESSOX OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Cream of Beets, 

Oysters a la Poulette. 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Fried Oysters. Broiled Oysters. 

Red Haricots Saute a la Bordelaise. 

Baron of Lamh tuith Mint Sauce, 

Salade a la Macedoine. 

Cream Fritters. 



CREAM OF BEETS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 red beet ----.--. 2 cents. 

2 qts. milk 16" 

2 oz. butter 4" 

Flour and seasonings ------ i cent. 

Total 23 cents. 

(1.) Boil a red beet and rub it through a sieve as direct- 
ed in the receipt for Celery Salade a la Cardinale, on page 
151. (2.) Make a white soup as directed for Puree of 
Salmon, on page 149. (3. ) Stir into the white soup enough 
of the puree of beets to color it to a delicate pink, and serve 
it at once. 



166 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

OYSTERS A LA POULETTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. oysters --------25 cents. 

1 oz. butter 3 " 

1 lemon ----_--_2" 

3 eggs - - - .... 3 " 

Oil and seasonings - - - - - - 3 " 

Total ----- 35 cents. 

(1.) Examine the oysters to see that no shell adheres to 
them. (2.) Strain the broth and set it over the fire to 
come to a boil. (3.) Mix together over the fire one ounce 
each of bntter and flour until they bubble; gradually stir 
in the oyster liquor, and season the sauce with a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of white 
pepper and nutmeg; stir in three raw yolks, one at a time, 
two tablespoonfuls of oil, aud the juice of a lemon. (4.) 
Put the oysters into the sauce, let them heat until their 
edges begin to curl, and then serve them at once, as they 
spoil by standing. 

SARATOGA POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3 cents. 

Fat for frying 3 " 

Total 6 cents. 

(1.) Peel a quart of potatoes, cut them in very thin 
slices, and lay them in cold water and salt for an hour 
or more. (2.) Then dry them on a towel, throw them 
into a deep kettle of smoking hot fat, and fry them liglit 
brown; take them out of the fat with a skimmer into a 
colander, scatter over them a teaspoonful of salt, shake 
them well about, and turn them on a platter to serve. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. oysters - 25 cents. 

Fat for frying - - . _ - _ 3 «« 

Egg and bread crumbs - - - - - 3 " 

Total - - - - ^ - 30 cents. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. lOT 



(1.) Lay the oysters on a clean towel., dry tliem slightly, 
bread tliom as directed on page 33, and fry tiiem golden 
brown in smoking fat; lay them for a moment on brown 
paper, to free them from grease, and serve them hot, gar- 
nished with a few sprigs of parsley. 

BROILED OYSTERS. 

INGBEDIENTS. 

1 qt. oysters 25 cents. 

Eggs and bread crumbs - - - - - 2 " 
Materials for maUre d/hotel butter - - 5 " 

Total ------ 32 cents. 

Prepare the oysters as directed in the preceding receipt, 
broil them on an oiled gridiron, over a moderate fire, and 
serve them with some maitre cVhotel butter, made as di- 
rected on page 34. 

RED HARICOTS SAUTE 1 LA BORDELAISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. Red Haricot beans - - - ' - - « cents. 

2 oz. butter - 4 " 

Herbs and seasoning 2" 

Total 12 cents. 

(1.) Dress the beans as directed on page 44, boiling an 
onion stuck with six cloves, and a bouquet of herbs with 
them. {'Z.) When they are soft, but not broken, drain 
them, put them into a frying-pan containing two ounces 
of butter, and a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley and 
any green herb in season; add a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
level saltspoonful of pepper, and toss them over the fire 
until they are hot. Turn them out on a hot dish, sprinkle 
them with chopped parsley and serve them hot. 
BARON OF LAMB WITH MINT SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 lbs. lamb $1.50 

Vegetables and seasonings - - - - .5 

Mint, sugar, and vinegar - - - - 5 

Tot^ .... - $1.60 



168 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

A baron of lamb is the entire loin, not divided at the 
back bone, and the upper part of both legs. 

Lay the lamb in a dripping-pan on a little bed of 
vegetables, made of an ounce of carrot and turnip sliced, 
one slice of onion, one sprig each of thyme and parsley, and 
one bay leaf. Put it into a quick oven long enough to 
brown, then season it with salt and pepper, and finish bak- 
ing it in a moderate oven, cooking it in all twenty min- 
utes to a pound. While it is roasting, make the following 
sauce. 

Mint Sauce. — 'J'his sauce is made both hot and cold, 
the vinegar being scalded with the sugar when the sauce is 
to be hot; otherwise the process is the same as for cold 
sauce. For the latter put one tablespoonful of chopped 
mint and two of soft sugar into half a pint of vinegar, and 
stir until the sugar is dissolved. Serve it in a gravy- 
boat. 

SALADE A LA MACEDOINE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. small white turnips - 5 cents. 

}>{ pt. green peas, or beans - - - - - 3 " 

Beet, carrot, celery - - - - -- 2" 

Materials for sauce - - - - - - 10 " 

Total 20 cents. 

(1.) Boil a red beet as directed for Cardinal Sauce, on 
page 152. (2.) Pare the turnips and hollow them out 
like little cups. (3.) Slice the carrot half an inch thick, 
and stamp it out in small cylinders with a tin tube. 
Cut four small white stalks of celery in half inch lengths. 
Shell the peas, or use canned ones. (4.) Put all these 
vegetables over the fire, in boiling water in separate ves- 
sels with half a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, and 
boil them only until tender; then throw them into cold 
water in separate vessels until wanted for use. (5.) Mean- 
time, make a mayonnaise as directed for Cardinal Sauce, 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 



omitting the puree of beet which colors it. (6.) Drain the 
vegetables which form the macedoitw, dry them on a clean 
towel, arrange them in a mound on a salad dish, and cover 
them with the mayonnaise* The salad may be ornamented 
with hard boiled eggs, bits of celery leaf, and some of the 
macedoine, if desired. 

CREAM FRITTERS, 

INGREDIENTS. 

1)4 pts. milk 6 cents. 

4 oz. com starch - 4" 

3 '* butter - 6 " 

8 ** powdered sugar -5" 

4 eggs '- 4" 

Bread crumbs and flavoring - > - - 2 " 

Total * * - * ^ 37 cents. 

(1.) Dissolve the corn starch in half a pint of milk. 
Place a pint of milk on the stove to heat. Separate the 
yolks of three eggs from the whites. (2.) As soon as the 
milk boils up add to it the sugar, cornstarcli, butter, yolks, 
and a teaspoonful of flavoring, stirring the yolks in one at 
a time, and beating the cream till it is smooth with an Qgg 
whip; let it simmer gently for five minutes and then pour 
it out, about an inch tliick, on an oiled dish and let it cool. 
(3.) Dust the table thickly with bread crumbs, lay the 
cream upon it and cut it in diamonds. (4.) Beat one egg 
and the remaining whites just enough to mix them, and 
use them to bread the pieces of cream. Fry them in smok- 
ing hot fat, and lay them on brown paper to free them 
from grease. (5.) Arrange them on a dish, dust them 
\vith powdered sugar, and serve them. 



170 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER VI. 

SIXTH LESSOR! OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Pot age a la Reine. 
Broiled Trout with Maitre iV Hotel Butter, 

Duchesse Potatoes. 

Canton de Rouen. 

Celery a la Villcroi. 
Breast of Lamh a la Marechale. 

Cliiclcen Salad. 
Rice Croquettes loitli Vanilla Cream Sauce, 



' POT AGE A LA REINE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. chicken 50 cents. 

Soup vegetables and milk - - - - 5 " 
1 pound rice 10" 

Total 65 cents. 

(1.) Dress a chicken us directed on page 123; cut off the 
legs and thighs without separating them, and put it into a 
saucepan with four quarts of cold water, and a teaspoon- 
ful of salt; bring it slowly to a boil, skimming until it is 
clear. (2.) Add a carrot, an onion stuck with six cloves, a 
bouquet of herbs, a tablespoonful of salt, and quarter of a 
saltspoonful each of white pepper and grated nutmeg, and 
boil until the chicken is tender; then take it up, cut off 
the white meat from the breast, and free it from fat and 
skin, and use it for the soup, saving the rest of the chicken 
for the salad. (3.) Strain the soup, return it to the fire 
with the white meat of the chicken, and the rice well 
washed; boil these ingredients slowly until they are tender 
enough to be rubbed through a sieve with a wooden spoon. 
(4.) Return the soup to the fire to heat, adding half a pint 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 171 

of boiling milk, and stirring until it is sciilding hot, 
bid do not let it boll; it is then i-eady to serve. (5.) If it 
needs to stand set the saucepan containing it in another 
partly filled with some boiling water to keep the soup hot. 
BROILED TROUT WITH MAfTRE U HOTEL BUTTER. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. trout ------- 50 cents. 

Materials for maitre cChotel butter - - - 5 " 

Total ----- 55 cents. 
Dress a trout, splitting it down the back, broil it over a 
moderate fire on an oiled gridiron, cooking the inside first, 
and serve it with some maitre d' hotel butter, made as di- 
rected on page 34. 

DUC HESSE POTATOES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3 cents. 

1 oz. butter -------- 2 " 

2 eggs and seasonings - - - - - 3 " 

Total ----- 8 cents. 

(1.) Boil one quart of potatoes and mash them through 
a fine colander with the potato masher; mix with them 
one ounce of butter, one level teaspoonful of salt, half ;i 
saltspoonful of white pepper, quarter of a saltspoonful of 
grated nutmeg, and the yolks of two raw eggs. (2.) Turn 
the potato out on a plate, and then form it with a knife 
into small cakes, two inches long and one inch wide; lay 
them on a buttered tin, brush them over the top with white 
of egg, and color them golden brown in a moderate oven. 

CANTON DE ROUEN 

INGREDIENTS. 

Legs and thighs of chicken - - - - 

Parslej", pork and seasonings - - - 2 cents. 

}{ lb sausage meat _ - _ - - 3 " 

Vegetables for Macedoine - - - - 10 " 

}4 pt. Bechamel sauce - - - - - 5 " 

Total - - - - - 20 cents. 



172 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Lay the legs and thighs of the chicken, which must 
be cut off without separating them, on the table, with 
the skin down; remove the thigh bone, and half the leg 
bone, cutting them away from the flesh with a sharp knife 
to avoid mangling it. Trim off the ends of the leg bone 
just below the knee joint, to make them resemble a duck's 
bill. Stuff the thighs with a little delicately seasoned 
forcemeat or sausage, and sew them up; turn them over 
and pat them into the shape of a bird, securing the leg 
bone in place for the head, with a trussing needle, and 
tying it securely. Lay the cantons in a pan on some scraps 
of pork and vegetables, season them lightly with salt and 
pepper, and bake them one hour in a moderate oven. (2.) 
Prepare some vegetables as directed for the salade h la 
Macedoine, on page 168. (3.) ^hikQ i\j Becliainel sauce as 
directed on page 129, and heat the vegetables in it. (4.) 
When the cantons are done remove the strings, dish 
them on a bed made of the vegetables and sauce, and 
serve them hot. 

CELERY 1 L 1 VILLEROI. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 bunch of celery ------ 8 cents. 

Materials for batter - - - - - - 5 " 

Fat foi- frying ------ 3 " 

Total _ - - ^ - 16 cents. 

(1.) Trim the celery stalks, cut them in two inch 
lengths, boil them until tender in boiling water and salt. 
Dry them on a clean towel, dip them in frying batter, 
made as directed on page 51, and finish them like the 
Parsnip Fritters, described on the same page. 

BREAST OF LAMB A LA MARECHALE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 breast of lamb - - - - - - 35 cents. 

Vegetables, herbs, and seasonings - - - 3 " 
Ejrg- and bread crumbs ----- 2 " 



-■&& 



Fat for flying - - ' - - - - - 3 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 173 

3^ pt. Spanish sauce ------ 5 cents. 

Mushrooms -----__. 5" 

Total 43 cents. 

(1.) Put a breast of lamb over the fire in boiling Avater 
to boil, with a bouquet of herbs, an onion stuck with six 
cloves, half a carrot, and a turnip, and boil it until the 
bones can be pulled out easily. When the lamb is tender 
enough, remove all the bones, press it flat between two 
platters, under a weight, and let it cool. (2.) Make half 
a pint of Spanish Sauce as directed on page 71, and put 
half a pint of mushrooms in it to heat. (3.) Bread the 
breast of lamb by dipping it first in sifted bread crumbs, 
then in beaten Q^g, and again in crumbs, and fry it in 
smoking hot fat. (4.) Pour the sauce on a dish, and lay 
the lamb on it with the mushrooms around it. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Cold chicken - - 

Olives and capers 10 cents. 

Materials for Mayonnaise ^ - - - 15 " 
Celery or lettuce - - - - - - -.5" 

8 eggs -,. 3«' 

Total 33 cents. 

(1.) Free the cold chicken remaining from the soup, 
from fat, skin and bone, and cut it in half-inch dice. 
(2.) Trim and wash the salad, break it in small pieces, 
and dry it on a clean towel. (3.) Mix the chicken and 
salad in a salad bowl, and dress it with a tablespoonful of 
oil, a teaspoonful of vinegar and half a saltspoonful of salt 
and pepper. (4.) Make a Mayonnaise as directed in the 
receipt for Cardinal Sauce, omitting the beet coloring, 
and cover the salad with it. Decorate the salad with olives, 
capers and hard boiled eggs cut in quarters. 



174 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

RICE CROQUETTES, WITH VANILLA CREAM SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

14 lb. rice --------5 cents. 

1 oz. butter _______ 2 

4 " sugar --------3 

}4 pt. milk ------- 2 

4 eggs --------- 4, 

Flour, cracker dust, and fat for frying - 7 

Total ----- 23 cents. 

(1.) Boil half a pound of well washed rice in one quart 
of boiling Avater, with a level tablespoonfiil of salt until 
just tender; drain it, pnt it into half a pint of milk with 
half the yellow rind of a lemon, or two inches of stick cin- 
namon, and two ounces of sugar, and boil for half an hour, 
stirring it occasionally to prevent burning. (2.) Take it 
from the fire, stir in, one at a time, the yolks of three eggs, 
and return to the fire for two minutes to set the egg-, then 
spread the rice on an oiled platter, laying it about an inch 
thick, and let it get cool enough to handle. (3.) When it 
is cool enough, turn it out of the platter upon some cracker 
dust spread on the table, cut it in strips one inch Avide and 
three inches long, roll them into the shape of corks, dip 
them first in cracker, then in beaten Qgg, then in cracker- 
dusl, and fry them golden brown in plenty of smoking 
hot fat; lay them on a napkin for a moment to free them 
from grease, put them on a dish, dust a little powdered sugar 
over them, and serve them with Cream Sauce. (4.) Stir 
one ounce each of butter and flour together over the fire un- 
til they bubble; then add half a pint of boiling milk, one 
ounce of sugar, and a teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence, and 
serve as soon as it boils up, with the croquettes. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 



175 



CHAPTER VII. 

SEVENTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Mock Terrajnn Soup. 

Bouillabaisse. 

Potatoes au gratin. 

Calfs Liver, a la Bordelaise. 

Macaroni a la Napolitaine. 

Braized Beef a la Printanilre. 

Salade a la Suede. 

French Pancakes. 



I 



MOCK TERRAPIN SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Calfs liver ------- 

2 qts. stock -------- 13 cents. 

% pt. Spanish sauce _ - - - - 5 

3 eggs - - ~ ' ' ' ~ ~ ' ^^ 
1 gill Madeira wine ------ 13 ' 

Flour, oil and seasonings - - - - - 2 ** 

Total ----- a5 cents. 

(1.) In preparing the calfs liver a la Bordelaise, take 
off the smallest lobe, or division, and bring it to a boil in 
boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a bouquet of 
herbs; when it is done chop it in quarter inch dice. (2.) 
Heat two quarts of stock and half a pint of Spanish Sauce, 
made as directed on page 71; add the liver to it, and keep 
it hot over the fire. (3.) Make some egg-balls as follows: 
rub the yolks of two hard boiled eggs through a sieve with 
a wooden spoon, and mix them with a teaspoonful of oil, 
a very little salt and pepper, the yolk of a raw egg and 
enough flour to make a stiff paste; roll this out about half 
an inch thick, cut it in strips, and then in dice, and roll 
them into little balls under the palm of the hand; poach 



176 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

the egg-balls in boiling water for five minntes, and then 
put them into the sonp. (4.) When ready to nse the soup, 
add the wine to it, and pour it into the tureen. Thin slices 
of lemon ai'e passed with this soup, as with Mock Turtle. 

BOUILLABAISSE. 

XN6B£X)I£NTS. 

1 lb. cod fish 8 cents. 

1 " perch - 15 " 

1 " bass 15 " 

2gUlsoil ^- - - 10 " 

1 gill of white wine - - - - ~ - 13 " 

Onion, flour and seasonings - - - - 3 '* 

Bread and lemon ------ 3" 

3 eggs --------- 3 " 

Total ----- 70 cents. 
(1.) Chop a small onion and fry it golden brown in a 
gill of salad oil; stir into it two ounces of flour until it bub- 
bles; add one clove of garlic chopped fine, a tablespoonfnl 
of saffron, a gill of wine, a iouquetoi herbs, and two quarts 
of boiling water, and simmer while the fish is being fried. 
(2.) Dry the fish, which should be sliced, on a clean towel, 
roll it in flour, season it witli pepper and salt, fry it brown 
in a gill of oil, and lay it on brown paper to free it from 
grease. (3.) Cut some stale bread in half-incli dice, fry 
them golden brown and put them into the soup tureen. (4. ) 
Mix the yolks of three raw eggs with two gills of the soup, 
and then stir them into the rest of the soup, with the Juice 
of a lemon. Put the fish into the tureen and strain the 
soup over it. Serve it at once. 

POTATOES AU GRATIN. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- S cents. 

}4 pt. Bdchamel sauce - - - - - 5 " 

1 oz. Parmesan cheese ----- 2 " 

Bread and seasonings - - - - - - 2 " 

Total 12 cents. 

Slice some cold boiled potatoes, warm them in half a pint 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 177 



of Bechamel sauce, put them into a gratin dish, or one that 
can be sent to the table, season them with salt and white 
pepper, dust them thickly with bread crumbs and grated 
Parmesan cheese, and brown them quickly in a hot oven. 
CALF'S LIVER 1 LA BORDELAISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 calf's liver 50 cents. 

}i lb. larding pork 5" 

Soup vegetables -"^ * 

Total , , - - - 60 cents. 

(1.) After cutting off the smaller lobe of the liver to 
use for Mock Terrapin Soup, lard it as directed in the re- 
ceipt for Fricandeau of veal on page 150. (3.) Lay it in 
a di-ipping pan on a bed of soup vegetables and the scraps 
of larding pork, season it with a teaspoonful of salt and 
a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, add a little boiling 
water or stock to baste it with every twenty minutes, and 
bake it an hour and a half in a moderate oven. (3.) When 
it is done take it from the pan and keep it hot while the 
sauce is being made by passing the vegetables and dripping 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon. Serve the sauce on 
the dish with the liver. 

MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE. 

INGEEDIENTS. 

}4 lb. macaroni - - 8 cents. 

}i pt. Spanish sauce 5 " 

Cold game - - 10 " 

Bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese - - 2 ** 

Total 25 cents. 

(1.) Boil the macaroni as directed on page 40. (2.) Out 
any remains of game in half inch dice. (3.) Make a 
Spanish Sauce as directed on page 71. (4.) Grate an ounce 
of Parmesan cheese, and sift an eqnal qnantity of bread 
crumbs with it. (5.) Put the macaroni, sauce, and game 
in layers in a dish suitable to be sent to the table, dust it 



COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



thickly witli the cheese and bread crumbs, and brown it 
quickly in a hot oven. Serve it hot. 

BRAIZED BEEF 1 LA PEINTANI^JRE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. flank of beef _--___ 40 cents. 

1 qt. small turnips - - - - - - 5 " 

}4 pint green peas -5" 

Parsley and seasonings - - - - - 5 " 

Total ----- 55 cents. 

(1.) Trim the fat and skin from the flank of beef, sea- 
son it with two teaspoonfuls of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, roll it up compactly, and tie it tight. 
Put it into a saucepan on a bed of vegetables, with a gill of 
vinegar and ten whole cloves, cover it with broth or boiling 
water, put a clean cloth over the top of the saucepan and 
fit on the lid. Let the beef simmer slowly for three hours, 
or until quite tender. (2.) Pare the turnips, scoop them 
out in the form of little cups, boil them only until tender 
in Avell-salted boiling water, and then lay them in cold wa- 
ter until vranted. Boil the peas in the same way, and lay 
them in cold water. When the vegetables are wanted, heat 
the turnips in boiling water, warm the peas with a tea- 
spoonful of butter, and fill the turnip cups with them. 
(3.) When the beef is tender lay it on a dish, remove the 
string, strain the gravy over it, arrange the little cups of 
peas around it, and garnish it on each side with tufts of 
i:)arsley. 

SALADE A LA SUEDE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Cold potatoes - - - - - 2 cents. 

Olives and capers ------ 5 

2 pickled herrings - - - - - - 2 " 

Apple, egg, and pickled beet - - - - 3 " 

Oil, vinegar, and seasonings - - - - 5 " 

1 pt. oysters 13" 

Total ----- 30 cents. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 179 

(1.) Skin and slice the herrings. (2.) Peel and slice the 
potatoes, apple, and beet. (3.) Put them into a salad bowl, 
and dress them with two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vin- 
egar, a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of 
pepper. (4. ) Lay one pint of freshly opened oysters around 
the salad, and fill the center with the olives, capers, and a 
hard boiled egg sliced. 

FRENCH PANCAKES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 eggs - - 6 cents. 

}4 lb. flour - - - - - - - - 2 " 

X " butter 8" 

}4 pt. milk - - 2 " 

3 oz. sugar ---~-_-_2'* 
JeUy 10 " 

Total - - - - - 30 cents. 

(1.) Beat together till smooth six eggs and half a pound 
of flour. (2.) Melt four ounces of butter, and add it to 
the batter with one ounce of sugar, and half a pint of milk, 
and beat till smooth. (3.) Put by the tablespoonful into 
a hot frying-pan, slightly greased, running the batter 
evenly over the surface of the pan by tipping it about; fry 
the pancake light brown, spread it with jelly, roll it up, 
dust it with powdered sugar, and serve hot. 



180 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 

EIGHTH LESSON OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 

Mi- Car erne JSoup. 
Halibut filets a la Marechale, 

Potatoes a la Creme. 

Curry of Duck, a VIndienne. 

Kale ivitJi Butter Sauce. 

Boast Turkey. 

French Salad. 

Cream. Cakes. Chocolate Eclairs, 



MI-CARilME SOUP. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. flounder ------ 12 cents. 

1 qt. milk - - - - . - . 8 " 

2 oz. butter . . . . . . 4 " 

Bread, flour and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Soup vegetables, lettuce and beet - - 5 " 

Total 31 cents. 

(1.) Kemove the filets of the flounder as directed on page 
32. (2.) Pare a carrot, turnip, and onion; make a bo^iqiiet 
of herbs; put these vegetables over tlie fire in a quart and 
a half of cold water, with the filets, and a teaspoonful of 
salt, and bring them to a boil. Then remove the filets 
carefully, lay them between two platters to cool, and let the 
vegetables simmer slowly. (3.) Stamp half a dozen let- 
tuce leaves in little rounds with an apple corer, and throw 
them into well salted bcilmg water for one minute; then 
drain them and put them into cold water until needed. 
(4.) Stamp similar rounds from thin slices of a cold beet, 
boiled as directed in the receipt for Cream of Beets, on page 
165. (5.) Stamp the filets in the same sized rounds; put 
them aside until wanted tor use, and rub the remains of 



THE LADIES' COURSE. ISl 

the filets through the sieve with a wooden spoon. (6.) 
Put one quart of milk over the fire to boil. (7. ) Stir together 
over the fire two ounces each of butter and flour until 
they bubble; gradually add the boiling milk, and one 
quart of the water in which the vegetables have been sim- 
mering; season the soup with quarter of a saltspoonful 
each of white pepper and grated nutmeg, adding a little 
more salt if it is required; stir in the joi^ree made from the 
trimmings of the filets, and. mix the soup smooth with an 
egg whip. (8.) When ready to use the soup, add the 
rounds of fish, lettuce and beet, and serve instantly, so 
that the brightness of the contrasting colors may not be 
impaired. 

HALIBUT FILETS A LA MARECHALE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. Halibut 20 cents. 

3 eggs --------- 3 *» 

Bread crumbs and lard for frying - - 5 " 

2 oz. butter 4 " 

Flour, mushrooms and seasonings - - 5 " 

Total 37 cents. 

(1.) Make an Allemande Sauce as follows: stir two 
ounces of butter and one and a half ounces of flour over 
the fire until they bubble, add half a pint of boilino^ water, 
or the essence from a can of mushrooms; season with a 
level saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful each of 
white pepper and nutmeg, and boil the sauce three minutes, 
stirring it constantly. Remove it from the fire, stir in the 
yolks of two eggs, return it to the fire, and stir it two min- 
utes longer; it will then be ready for use. (2.) Cut the 
hiiXWmt in filets quarter of an inch thick, an inch wide, and 
about three inches long; cover one side with the Allemande 
Sauce, lay that side down on an oiled platter, and let tlie 
filets stand five minutes to harden the sauce. Then, with- 
out moving them, cover the upper side with the sauce, and 
let them stand five minutes. (3.) Dust the table thickly 



183 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

with bread crumbs, beat up an egg, bread the filets, and fry 
them golden brown in smoking hot fat. Lay them for a 
moment on brown paper to free them from grease, and 
serve them on a folded napkin, garnished with parsley. 
POTATOES A LA CR^ME. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes - - 3 cents. - 

2 oz. butter - - - 4 " 

Milk, lemon-juice and seasonings - - - 3 " 

Total ... - - 10 cents. 

(1.) Boil some neAV potatoes as directed on page 47, peel 
and slice them thin; pnt them into a sance-pan with a gill 
of milk, two onnces of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, 
a saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of 
white pepper and nutmeg, and toss them over the fire till 
hot. Croufo7is of fried bread may be used as a garnish, if 
desired. 

CURRY OF DUCK A VINDIENNE. 

INGREDIENTS, 

3 lb. duck 45 cents. 

}4 " rice 5 " 

Cocoanut and apple 5 " 

Curry, butter, flour and seasonings - - - 5 " 

Total 60 cents. 

Make the curry as directed on page 115, adding a cui)ful 

of grated cocoanut, and a tart apple, peeled, cored, and 

sliced. Cook and serve the rice as directed in the same 

receipt. 

KALE WITH BUTTER SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 peck purple kale ------ 20 cents. 

2^oz. butter - - 4 " 

Plooir and seasonings ----- l cent. 

Total 25 cents. 

(1.) Boil as directed for Green Vegetables on page 50, 
and serve with Butter Sauce made as follows. (2.) Stir 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 183 

together over the fire two ounces of butter and one of flour 
until they bubble, then add half a pint of boiling water, 
and season witli a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of white pepper. (3.) Chop the kale, and warm 
it in the sauce before serving. 

ROAST TURKEY. 

INGREDIENTS. 

7 lb. Turkey --.-•- $1.40 
)4 " cheese ------- 8 

Bread, herbs and seasonings - - - 5 

Butter, egg and onion ----- 3 

Total - . . - $1.56 

(1.) Dress a turkey as directed in the receipt for Chicken 
Carry on page 115; twist the tips of the wings back under 
the shoulders; stuff the bird with a forcemeat made as di- 
rected on page 124. Bend the legs as far up toward the 
breast as possible; secure the thigh bones in that position 
by a cord or skewer, and then fasten the legs down close 
to the vent. (2.) Eoast the bird as directed in the receipt 
for Roast Duck, on page 123, making the gravy as for that 
dish. 

FRENCH SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. watercress ---..- Scents. 
1 head lettuce -------5" 

Materials for Salad Dressing - - - 5 *' 

Total 15 cents. 

(1.) Thoroughly cleanse the cress and lettuce, shake 
them dry in a clean towel, arrange them in a salad bowl, 
and pour over them the following dressing. (2.) Mix to- 
gether a tablespoonful of vinegar, two of oil, a level tea- 
spoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; 
pour it over the salad and serve it at once. The salad 
wilts by standing after it has been dressed. 



184 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

CREAM CAKES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

8 eggs 8 cents. 

1 oz. butter 2 " 

Flour and corn starch - - - - - 3 " 

1 pt. milk 4 " 

Sugar and flavoring 3 " 

Total - - - - - 20 cents. 

(1.) Put one ounce of butter over the fire to melt in one 
pint of water; when the water boils beat into it four ounces 
of flour, and let it cook five minutes, stirring it constantly 
to prevent burning. (3.) Eempve it from tlie fire and beat 
six eggs into it, two at a time. When thoroughly mixed 
and beaten, put the batter by the tablespoonful on a bak- 
ing-sheet, first buttered and then floured; brush the tops 
of the puffs with beaten Qgg, and bake them in a moderate 
oven about half an hour. (3.) Cool them, cut them open 
at one side, and fill them with Pastry Cooks' Cream, made 
as follows. (4.) Mix together in a sauce-pan two ounces of 
corn starch, two ounces of powdered sugar and the yolks of 
two eggs; then gradually stir in a pint of milk, put the 
cream over the fire and stir it constantly until it has boiled 
five minutes. Remove it from the fire, flavor it with a 
teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence, pour it into a bowl to cool, 
and then fill the pufls with it. 

CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS. 

INGREDIENTS, 

Mateiials for Cream Cakes - - - - 20 cents. 
Chocolate and sugar 5 " 

Total 25 cents. 

(1.) Make the batter for the eclairs as dij-ected for 
Cream Cakes, putting it upon the baking-pan in strips 
three inches long and an inch and a half wide. When 
baked and cooled, fill them with Pastry Cooks' Cream, 
brush the tops with Chocolate Icing, made as directed in 
the following receipt, let them cool, and use them. (2.) 



THE LADIES' COURSE. ia5 

Make a Chocolate Icing as follows: put four ounces of 
sugar and a gill of water over the fire and boil and skim it 
until it reaches what is called the '* crack," which may be 
decided by dipping a small stick first into the boiling 
sugar, and then into cold water; if the sugar forms a clear, 
brittle candy it is ready for the chocolate. Check the 
boiling at once by dipping the sauce-pan containing the 
sugar into another pa^'tly filled with cold water; now stir 
in an ounce of finely grated and sifted chocolate, and brush 
the eclairs with it. Dry them in the mouth of a rather 
cool oven, cool them, and serve them. 



CHAPTER IX. 

NIlfTH LESSON" OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Puree of Celery, 

Eels en Matelotte. 

Potatoes a la Maitre cV Hotel, 

Galantine of Chichen. 

Asparagus Peas. 

Braized Capons with Tongue, 

Lobster Salad. 

Cumberland Pudding with Rum Sauce. 



PUREE OF CELERY. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 bunch celery - - 15 cents. 

2 oz. butter r- 4" 

2 qts. milk - - 16 " 

Flour and seasonings ...... i cent. 

Total , , - - - 36 cents. 

(1.) Make a White Soup as directed m the receipt for 
Puree of Salmon, on page 148. (2.) Trim six of the white 
stalks of celery, boil them until tender in well salted boil- 
ing water, rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon. 



186 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

and blend tlie Puree with the Soup. Serve it as soon as it 
is done; or if it is to be kept hot, set the sance-pan con- 
taining it into anotJier partly filled with boiling water. 

EELS EN MATELOTTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs, eels ---.----34 cents. 

2 oz. butter • - 4 " 

}4 pt. button onions - - - - - - 3 " 

Bread, flour and seasonings - - - - 2 " 

Wine 5 " 

Total ----- 38 cents. 

(1.) Clean the eels, cut them in two inch lengths, put 
them over the fire and bring them to a boil in plenty of 
cold water containing a tablcspoonfnl of salt, an onion 
stuck with ten cloves, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
(2.) Boil them fifteen minutes, take them up, dry them on 
a clean cloth, roll them in flour and fry them brown in a 
sauce-pan with two ounces of butter. (3.) When they are 
brown add a lonqnet ot herbs and a pint of boiling water; 
season the mafelotte with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter 
of a saltspoonful of pepper. (4.) Peel a pint of button 
onions, toss them over the fire until brown with a teaspoon- 
ful each of butter and susrar, and then add them to tlie 
matelotfe and simmer it one hour. If the sauce evaporates, 
add enough boiling water to make up the original quanti- 
ty. When the matelotte is done, add a glass of wine to it, 
and serve witii some crotUons of fried bread. 

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D' HOTEL. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------ ~ S cents. 

MaUre d' Hotel butter - - - - - - 3 " 

Ipt. broth - - 3 " 

Total - 9 cents 

Boil the potatoes as directed on page 47. Pare them, 
cut them in quarter inch slices, and put them into a sauce- 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 187 

pan with some mattre cVhotel butter, made as directed on 
page 34, and a pint of broth. Toss them over the fire till 
hot, and serve them at once, or the butter may become oily. 

GALANTINE OF CHICKEN. 

INGREDIENTS. 

4 lbs. chicken ---._- 50 cents. 

2 " forcemeat ------- 24 " 

}i *' larding pork ------ 5" 

}i " cold tongue - 10 " 

1 gill wine ------- 13" 

2 eggs ----..-. 2 " 
Soup vegetables and seasonings - - 4 " 

Total - - . . $1.08 

(1.) Bone the chicken as directed in the receipt for 
Boned Birds on i^age 125. (2.) Put the carcass over the 
fire in four quarts of cold water, with a bouquet of herbs, 
an onion peeled and stuck with ten cloves, a carrot and 
turnip peeled, and bring it to a boil, skimming it clear. 
(3.) Either make a forcemeat of one pound each of fresh 
veal and pork, finely minced, or use an equal quantity of 
nice sausage meat. Season the forcemeat highly with a 
teaspoonful of mixed ground cloves, nutmeg, mace and 
allspice, a teaspoonful of salt, andasaltspoonful of peppei,- 
add to it the wine, two raw eggs, the larding pork and 
tongue cut in one inch dice, and mix it tiioroughly. (4.) 
Lay the flesh of the chicken on the table, skin down; put 
the forcemeat on it, and fold the chicken up over it in the 
form of the bird. Roll it tightly in a strong, clean cloth, 
tie it with tape in the center, and near the ends of the 
roll; fasten the ends firmly with strong twine, taking care 
to make the roll compact and perfectly secure. Put the 
chicken into the water containing the carcass, and boil it 
slowly for three hours, replenishing the stock Avith boiling 
water, so as to have the chicken entirely covered with it. 
The conchision of this receipt is given in the next lesson. 



188 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

ASPARAGUS PEAS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 bunch asparagus ------ 15 cents. 

Butter and seasonings - - - - - - 3 " 

Total 18 cents. 

(1.) Thoroughly wash a bunch of youug green aspara- 
gus, cut it in half inch lengths as far clown the stalk as it 
is tender, and boil it as directed for Green Vegetables on 
page 50. (2.) When ready to use it, heat it over the fire 
with one ounce of butter, half a level teaspoonful of salt, 
and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and serve it at 
once before the color changes. 

BEAIZED CAPONS WITH TONGUE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 capon - r,75 cents. 

2 small tongues ^ - - - - - -20" 

Soup vegetables and herbs - - - ^ 5 " 

1 pt. broth ' 3 '» 

Igillwme 13 " 

1 oz. butter 2 *' 

Flour and seasonings ----- 2 " 

Total $1.20 

(1.) Prepare a capon for boiling as directed in the re- 
ceipt for Boiled FowLon page 24, and put it over the fire 
to simmer gently in sufficient boiling water to cover it, 
with a bouquet of herbs, a carrot and turnip peeled, an 
cnion stuck with ten cloves, a level tablespoonful of salt, 
and ten peppercorns. Keep enough boiling water in the 
sauce-pan to cover the capon and tongues all the time they 
are cooking. (2.) Wash two small fresh calfs tongues, 
put them with the capon to simmer until both are tender, 
about two hours. (3.) Put a handful of any green herbs in 
season into boiling water and salt, boil them three minutes, 
drain them, lay them in cold water for five minutes to set 
their color. Chop them fine and rub them through a 
sieve with a wooden spoon; use them to color the sauce. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 189 

which is made as follows. (4.) Stir together over the fire 
one ounce each of butter and flour until they bubble; add 
the wine and half a pint of the broth from the capon, and 
stir until smooth. Season the sauce lightly with a salt- 
spoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful each of pep- 
per and nutmeg, and add thQ 2ntree of herbs to it, when it 
is required for use. (5.) When the capon and tongues are 
done, dish them on a little of the sauce laid on the bottom 
of a platter, placing a tongue on each side of the capon; 
garnish the dish with parsley, and send the remainder of 
the sauce to the table in a sauce-boat, with dish of capon. 

LOBSTER SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

llobgtef ' - 25 cents. 

Materials for Mayonnaise - - - - 10 *' 
Eggs, olives, and capers - - *■ - - 5 " 

Lettuce and salad dressing * - - - 10 " 

Total 50 cents. 

(1.) Boil a lobster as directed on page 31. Remove it 
from the shell, throwing away the intestine which runs 
through the center of the tail, and the stomach, often 
called the 'Hady," a hard, round membrane lying near the 
head of the lobster. If there is any coral, gi'een fat, or 
spawn, save them to decorate the salad with. (2.) Wash 
the lettuce, shake it dry in a towel, tear it apart with the 
fingers, and arrange it in the salad bowl with the lobster, 
reserving the white inner leaves for decoration; pour 
over the salad a dressing made of two tablespoonfuls of 
oil, one of vinegar, a saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper. (3.) Make a Mayonnaise as di- 
rected in the receipt for Cardinal Sauce, on page 152; cov- 
er the salad with it, and decorate it with olives, capers, 
the coral or spawn, the white lettuce leaves, and two hard 
boiled eggs cut in quarters. Serve it as soon as it is 
made. 



190 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

CUMBERLAND PUDDING WITH RUM SAUCE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 oz. bread crumbs ------ 2 cents. 

6 " currants ------- 4" 

6 " suet 3 " 

6 " apples 2 " 

8 " sugar - 5 " 

4 " citron - - 8 " 

6 eggs -_-_-_-_ 6" 

Orange and lemon - - - - - - 4 " 

1 gUl rum 13 " 

Total 47 cents. 

(1.) Shred and chop the siiet. Pick over and wash the 
currants. Pare and chop the apple. Cut the citron in 
thin slices. Grate the rind of the orange and lemon, 
and squeeze their juice into separate cups. (2.) Put all 
these ingredients, except the lemon juice, into a bowl; add 
the bread crumbs, eggs, six ounces of sugar, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and mix them together thoroughly. (3.) 
Put the pudding into a buttered mould, set it in a sauce- 
pan containing boiling water enough to reach two-thirds 
up its sides, set it over the fire, and steam it three hours. 
Then turn it from the mould, dust it with powdered sugar, 
and serve it with Rum Sauce, made as follows. (4.) Melt 
two ounces of sugar over tlie fire with the lemon juice and 
a gill of boiling water, add the rum, and use the sauce at 
once. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 191 



CHAPTER X. 



TEi^TH LESSOlSr OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Game Consomme a la DescUgnac, 

Carp a la Cliamhord. 

Potatoes a la Provent^ale. 

Galantine of Chicken. 

Oyster Patties. 

Shoulder of Lamh a la Financiere, 

Shad-roe Salad. 

Macedoine of Fruits. 

GAME CONSOMME A LA DESCLIGNAC. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 partridge or prairie hen - - - - 50 cents. 

1 rabbit - - - 25 

}i\h. ham ------- 3 

1 knuckle of veal ------ 10 

Soup vegetables ------ 5 

7 eggs - 7 

Total ----- $1.00 

(1.) Make a conso^nme as directed on pages 105 and 106, 
substituting the veal, ham, a partridge, and a rabbit for 
the soup meat, and clearing it perfectly. (2.) Make a 
Royale Paste, as directed on page 144, and add it to the 
consomme as directed in the receipt for Consomme a la 
Royale. Serve as soon as tlie paste is added. 

CARP A LA CHAMBORD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. carp -----.-45 cents. 

}£ lb. larding pork ------ 5 

}4, " button mushrooms 25 

1 gill wine ------- 13 

1 oz. butter -------- 2 

Vegetables, flour and seasonings - - - 3 

Total ------ 93 cents. 



192 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Dress a carp for baking, remove the skin from 
the upper side, and lard it as directed in the receipt 
for Fricandeau of Veal, on page 150. (2.) Lay it in a 
dripping-pan on a little bed of herbs and vegetables, sea- 
son it with a teaspoonful of salt and quarter of a saltspoon- 
f ul of pepper, and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven. 
(3.) Mix together over the fire one ounce each of butter 
and flour until they bubble; add half a pint of boiling water 
gradually, stirring the sauce smooth Avith an Qgg whip, 
season it with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful 
each of white pepper and nutmeg; add the button mush- 
rooms and wine, and simmer gently, closely covered, for 
twenty minutes. (4.) When the carp is done transfer it 
to a platter without breaking it, pour the sauce over it, 
garnish it with parsley, and serve it hot. 

POTATOES A LA PROVENgALR 

INGiREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes 3 cents. 

loz. butter - - ^ ^ - « - - 3 " 
Shallot and seasonings - ^ ' - - 2 " 

Total .*■=--- 7 cents. 
(1.) Cut a quart of cold boiled potatoes in little balls 
with a vegetable scoop or knife. (2.) Chop one shallot, 
which is a small onion of intense flavor, and fry it pale 
yellow in an ounce of butter. (3.) Put the potato balls 
into the frying-pan with the shallot and butter, and toss 
them over the fire until they are pale brown. Sprinkle 
them with a little salt, and serve them hot. 

GALANTINE OF CHICKEN (to finish). 

INGREDIENTS. 

Chicken -------- 

2 eggs --------2 cents. 

2 oz. gelatine -------15" 



^ pt. wine --------25 



Total 42 cents. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 193 

(1.) When the chicken luis boiled threu hours, take it up, 
remove the cloth, wash it in cold water, and tie the chicken 
up again in it; put it between two phitters, under a heavy 
weight, and let it stand over night to cool. (2.) Strain 
the stock in which it was boiled, and let that stand over 
night, so that all the fat can be removed. (3.) Remove 
all the fat, put the stock over the fire, add to it two 
ounces of gelatine dissolved in a pint of cold water, and 
clarify it as directed in the receipt for consomme, on 
page 106. Strain it through flannel until perfectly clear; 
pour it into two shallow moulds; color one dark brown 
with Caramel, and cool until the jelly is firm. (4.) Lay 
the Galantine, or boned chicken on a dish, and garnish 
it with the jelly, cut in fanciful shapes. Serve it cold. 
Boned Turkey is prepared in the same way. 

OYSTER PATTIES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

% lb. flour 2 cents. 

X " butter 16 " 

1 qt. oysters 25 " 

Materials for sauce - . - - - 10 " 

Total 53 cents. 

Make a Puff Paste as follows: some ice, a round, smooth 
roller about two feet long and two and a half inches in 
diameter, and a smooth stone or marble slab, are the sole 
extraneous aids to the manipulator's skill. (1.) Wet the 
slab with a little water, lay upon it half a pound of butter; 
work out all the salt and buttermilk by kneading it with 
both hands, and then keep out about an ounce of the but- 
ter, fold the rest in a floured napkin, and lay it upon some 
ice. (2.) Next dry the slab thoroughly, sift upon it half 
a pound of fine, white flour, form this in a circle or well, 
putting aside about two ounces to dust the slab with; 
into the well drop the ounce of butter reserved, and the 
yolk of one Qgg, and work them to a cream with the tips 



194 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

of the fingers; to this grudually acid the flour from tlie 
well, with enough ice-cold water poured on from time to 
time, as required to form a dough about the consistency of 
short-cake {about one cup of water, more or less, will he 
used, accordinfj to the body of the flour;) now Avork the 
paste about on the slab until it leaves it clean and free, 
and does not cling to the fingers; take it up in a ball and 
dust the slab lightly with flour, lay on the paste, flatten it 
doAvn, and beat it with the roller for five minutes, turning 
and doubling it constantly; this process toughens it so that 
the butter will not break through in the subsequent man- 
ipulations. (3.) Now raise the paste and dust the slab 
again with flour; lay the paste on it, and roll out to a square 
of about eight inches; tunitheface of the paste, or the part 
which has been next the roller, down upon the slab, lay 
upon it the lump of cold butter, and fold the paste up and 
over it so as to cover every part; turn the ball thus formed 
upside doAvn, roll it out gently and evenly until the but- 
ter is incorporated Avith the paste, taking care not to break 
through the latter, as all the air-cells that can be gathered 
unbroken in the paste assist its rising; now tui-n the sheet 
of paste gently about on the slab, so that every part may 
be rolled to the same thickness of about one-quarter of 
an inch; in turning the paste, lift its outer edge and gently 
lap it over the roller towards you, being sure not to tear it, 
roll it gently inward, keeping it around the roller, and 
lifting it clear from the board when you wish to turn it or 
change its position in any Avay; when you wish to replace 
it upon the slab, gently unwind it from the roller, letting 
the face, or part next the roller, fall upon the slab. (4.) 
*The paste is now ready for forming the flakes; to do this, 
turn the facedown, fold it in three thicknesses lengthAvise, 
lay it in a long pan floured, set this in a larger pan of ice, 
and place upon it a third pan filled with ice, so that the 
paste will be completely surrounded with ice; let the pans 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 195 

stand for five minutes in the ice-box, or in the coolest phice 
you Ctin command, always bearing in mind that the cooler 
the paste is kept the better ic will be.* Ee^ieat the process 
described between the asterisks six times in succession, 
every time setting the paste in ice for five minutes, every 
time turning the face of the paste with the folds down to 
the slab, and every time folding in an opposite direction, 
or the butter will lie at one side, and the paste will rise 
unevenly in baking. (5.) To finish. After the sixth 
time of folding, roll the paste out to the thickness of one- 
quarter of an inch, and cut out in shape with a sharp tin 
cutter of the size reqnired, marking a circle an inch in di- 
ameter on the top of each with a small pastry cutter. For 
small tarts, or patties, have the paste one quarter of an 
inch thick;- for large ones, or vol-au-vents, have it about one 
third thicker; for patties use two layers of paste, put one 
over the other after cutting out, and wet the under layer 
with a soft brush dipped in cold water; brush the top of the 
second layer with an egg beaten up; this is called doree, or 
gilding, and the process gives the pastry a beautiful golden 
glaze. In forming vol-au-vents, or large pastries, use three 
or even four thicknesses of the paste, putting them to- 
gether as for patties, brushing the under layers with cold 
water, and gilding the top. (6.) Lastly, wet the baking-pan 
with water instead of greasing it, lay the paste upon it, set 
it for five minutes upon the ice in order that the layers 
may adhere, and put in a moderate oven five minutes, so 
that all the air-cells will have a chance to expand; then 
finish at a heat of about oOC^ Fahr., and be sure that the 
patties are done before taking them from the oven, or they 
will fall. (7.) Cut a little circle in the center of the 
patties, and fill them with Oysters a la Poulette, made as' 
directed on page 166. 



196 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



SHOULDER OF LAMB A LA FINANCIERS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

3 lbs. shoulder of lamb - - - - - 36 cents. 

3^ can of mushrooms - - - - - - 18 " 

IgUlwine ---_-._ 13 " 

1 oz. butter 3 " 

Eggs, bread crumbs and seasonings - - 5 " 

2 qts. broth - - 24 " 

}£ lb. larding pork ------ 5" 

Total- - . . - $1.03 

(1.) Trim off the end of the knuckle^ and bone the 
shoulder as directed for Canto7i of Lamb on page 120. (2.) 
Stuff it with a forcemeat made as directed on the same 
page. (3.) Sew it np in the form of a cushion, lard it as 
directed in the receipt for Fricandeaio of Veal, lay it in a 
saucepan on a bed of the trimmings of the larding pork 
and some scraps of vegetables and herbs; cover it with 
broth and simmer it for four hours. (4.) When it is ten- 
der lay it on a dish after removing the string, garnish it 
with the following sauce, put a paper frill on the end of 
the bone, and serve it hot. (5.) Make the sauce by stirring- 
together over the fire one ounce each of butter and flour 
until they bubble, then adding half a pint of the broth 
from the lamb, the mushrooms and the liquor in which 
they were preserved, the wine, and a slight seasoning of 
salt, nutmeg and pepper. Cock's-combs and truffles are 
part of the regular Financiere ragout, but they are expen- 
sive and difficult to obtain. 

SHAD-ROE SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 shad-roe --------10 cents. 

1 head salad -- 5" 

Ipt. tomatoes -------3" 

Lemon juice, oil, and seasonings - - - 5 " 

Total ------ 23 cents. 

Boil the roe, separate the grains by washing them in vin- 
egar, place them in a salad bowl, with one head of tender 



THE LADIES' COURSE. im 



lettuce and one pint of ripe tomatoes cut thin; dress them 
with two tablespoonfuls each of oil, lemon juice, and strain- 
ed tomato pulp, seasoned with cayenne pepper. Serve the 
salad as soon as it is made. 

MAC EDO IN E OF FRUITS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

}4 pt. currant jelly ----- 20 cents. 

K " orange " 20 '* 

1^ " wine '• - - . . - 20 " 

X " lemon " 20 '« 

X lb- candied cherries - - - - - 25 *' 

}i " " oranges 25 " 

U " " grapes 25 " 

U " " currants 25 " 

Total $1.80 

A macedoine of fruits may be made of any fresh fruit in 
season, or of candied fruits of contrasting colors; the effect 
of the dish depends upon the contrast of color which it af- 
fords. The jellies must be melted separately, and one 
poured into an oiled mould and allowed to become firm. 
Some of the frnit shonld be laid npon it, then another jelly 
poured in and allowed to set. More fruit and jelly should 
be added uutil all are used, and then the monid should be 
set upon the ice nntil the macedoine is perfectly firm. It 
may then be turned from the mould and served. 



198 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 



CHAPTER XL 

ELEVEN^TH LESSOI^ OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Potage a la Hollandaise. 

Scallops of Sturgeon aiix Fines Herhes. 

Potatoes ivitli Sauce Piciuante. 

Chichen Saute a la Marengo. 

Brussels Sprouts a la Maitre cV Hotel, 

Roast Pigeons. 

Shrimp Salad. 

Pudding Diploni atique. 



POTAGE A LA HOLLANDAISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 knuckle of; veal ------ 10 cents. 

Carrot, turnips, seasonings and herbs - - 3 " 
1 pt. green peas __--__ 5 ** 

1 " string beans ------- 5 " 

1 " milk - - 4 " 

6 eggs ---------6" 

2 oz. butter -----__ 4" 

Total . . . - . 37 cents. 

(1.) Make a clear stock as directed on page 105, from 
the knuckle of veal. (2.) Cut the carrot and turnip in the 
shape of olives; cut the string beans in diamonds, and shell 
the peas; boil all these vegetables till tender, in separate 
vessels, in boiliug water and salt, and put them into cold 
water to keep their color. (3.) Beat the yolks of six eggs 
with half a pint of milk, aud grndnally add them to the 
soup, stirriug it smooth over tlie fire; season it lightly with 
salt and pepper; put the vegetables into it to heat, and 
serve it hot, at once, so that they will not lose their color. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 199 

SCALLOPS OF STURGEON AUX FINES HERBES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lb. sturgeon _-_..- 30 cents. 

Materials for Marinade - - - - 15 *' 

Oil for frying - - 15 " 

Fried parsley - - - - - - -5" 

Total ----- 55 cents. 

(1.) Make a Marinade as directed oii page 118, add- 
ing anotlier gill of oil to it and lay the sturgeon iu it for 
two days. (2.) Cut the sturgeon in small slices, dry 
them on a clean towel, and toss them over the fire till 
brown, with the following ingredients, which must first 
be made hot: a tablespoonful each of chopped parsley 
and mushrooms, a level teaspoonful of chopped onion, 
and a gill of oil. (3.) Arrange the scallops neatly on a 
dish, and garnish them with parsley which has been washed, 
dried, and dipped for one minute in hot oil to crisp it. 

POTATOES WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 quart of potatoes - _____ 3 cents. 

1 oz. butter -- -2" 

Onions, pickle, capers and vinegar - - - 5 " 
1 pint of broth - 5 " 

Total _ - . - - 15 cents. 

Cut some cold boiled potatoes in slices, toss them over 
the fire in a sauce made according to the directions given 
on page 95, substituting a pint of broth for the boiling 
water, and serve them hot. 

CHICKEN SAUTE A LA MARENGO, 

XNGREDEENTS. 

3 lbs. chicken -_----- 38 cents. 
}^ can mushrooms - - - - - - 18 *' 

1 gill wine 13 " 

Flour, oil and seasonings - - - - - 5 " 

Total 74 cents. 



«00 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Prepare a cliickeii as directed for Chicken Curry on 
page 115. (2.) Brown it in a sauce-pan with a gill of oil, 
and stir in an ounce of flour; when the flour is brown add 
one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of jjcpper, 
one clove of garlic and a bouquet of herbs; put in the mush- 
rooms, and enough boiling water to cover the chicken, and 
simmer it until it is tender. (3.) When the cliicken is 
tender, add the wine, see if the seasoning is palatable, and 
serve the dish with a garnish of croiltons of fried bread. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS A LA MAITRE UHOTEL. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. Brussels Sprouts ----- 20 cents. 
Materials for maitre d'hote! butter - - - 5 " 

Total 25 cents. 

Cleanse the sprouts in plenty of cold water and salt, boil 
them as directed for Green Vegetables on page 50, and when 
ready to use them, warm them over the fire with some 
maitre (V hotel butter, made as directed on page 34. String 
beans may be cooked and served in the same way, the beans 
being cut in diamonds, or slivers, before cooking. 

ROAST PIGEONS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

6 pigeons - - 75 cents. 

}4: lb. larding pork 5" 

Materials for sauce - - - - -- 5'* 

Total &5 cents. 

(1.) Pluck the birds and dress them, reserving the livers, 
but do not wash them. (2.) Tie a slice of larding pork 
over the breasts, and roast them twenty minutes. (3.) 
Meantime chop the livers, and put them over the fire to 
simmer with the grated rind of one lemon, half a pint of 
broth or water, one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper. When the livers are done, add 



THE LADIES' COURSE. SOI 

the lemon juice, and serve the sauce in a sauce-boat. Gar- 
nish the pigeons with watercresses. 

SHRIMP SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pint of shrimps ------ 15 cents. 

1 head lettuce -.--_. 5" 
Materials for Mayonnaise - - - - 15 " 

Total ----- 35 cents. 

(1.) Boil the shrimps five minutes in boiling water and 
salt; remove the heads and liard shells, and arrange them 
in a salad dish with the lettuce, whicli must be well washed, 
and dried by shaking in a clean towel. (2.) Chop a table- 
spoonful of parsley, mix it with a Mayonnaise, made as di- 
rected on page 152, and dress the salad with it. 

PUDDING DIPLOMATIQUE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Sponge Cake 25 cents. 

X lb. raisins ...----3" 
X *' currants 3 " 

2 oz. citron --------4" 

6 eggs -------- 6" 

1 pt. milk - - - 4 " 

4 oz. sugar _-____- 3" 

1 " butter - - - , - - - - 2 " 

Total 50 cents. 

(1.) Stone the raisins, slice the citron, wash and dry the 
currants. (2.) Slice the cake, put it into a plain mould, 
well buttered, in layers with the fruit, and pour over them 
a custard made as follows. (3.) Beat six eggs with a pint 
of milk, four ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of Vanilla 
essence, and pour the custard over the pudding; put an 
ounce of butter on the top in small bits, set the mould in 
a sauce-pan, containing enough boiling water to reach two- 
thirds up the sides of the mould, and simmer the pudding 
an hour. (4.) Make a sauce by dissolving a teaspoonful 
of corn starch in a cup of cold water, adding two table- 



202 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

spoonfuls of currant jelly and a glass of wine to it, and 
bringing it to aboil. (5.) Y/hen the pudding is done, 
turn it out of the, mould, dust it with powdered sugar, and 
send it to the table with the sauce in a sauce-boat. 



CHAPTER XII. 

TWELFTH LESSON^ OF THE LADIES' COURSE. 



Puree of Carrots. 

Turhan of Flounders a la Hollandaise, 

Potatoes saute a la Barigoule. 

Mutton Cutlets a la Milanaise, 

French Beans saute aux Fines Herhes. 

Filet de Boeuf a la Macedoine. 

Italian Salad. 

To Glace Fruits and Nuts. 

Gateau de Princesse Loidse. 



PUREE OF CARROTS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. green peas ------ 5 cents. 

Carrots ---------5" 

4 oz. sausage meat ------ 3" 

1 " butter -------- 2 " 

Flour and seasonings ----- 1 cent. 

Total 16 cents. 

(1.) Pare and slice the carrots and boil them in two 
quarts of boiling water till tender enough to rub through a 
sieve with a wooden spoon. Return tlie puree thus made 
to the Y/ater in which the carrots were boiled. (2.) Mix 
one ounce each of butter and (lour together dry, and stir 
them into the puree to keep it from settling. (3.) Boil a 
pint of green peas in boiling water and salt till tender, 
wash them in cold water to set their color, and put them 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 203 

into the soup tureen. (4.) ^Icautiuie make the sausage 
meat into balls about quarter of an inch in diameter, toss 
them over tlie fire in a frying-pan until they are brown, and 
put them into the tureen with the peas. (5.) Season the soup 
with two teaspoonfuls of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful 
of pepper; pour it into the tureen upon the peas and force- 
meat balls, and serve it at once. 

TURBAN OF FLOUNDERS A LA HOLLANDAISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

2 lbs. flounders - - - - - - 12 cents. 

}4. pt. Hollandaise Sauce - - - - - 10 " 

Total ----- 22 cents. 

(1.) Filet the flounders as directed on page 32; roll each 
filet up, secure it in place with a little wooden skewer, and 
set tliem on a dish that can be sent to the table. (2. ) Make 
a Hollandaise Sauce as directed on page 111, pour it over 
tlie filets, ov turbans J as they are called when rolled, and 
bake them fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. 

POTATOES SAUTE A LA BARIGOULE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 qt. potatoes ------- 3 cents. 

Oil and seasonings - . - - - - 10 " 

Total 13 cents. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes in the shape of olives, and toss 
them over the fire till brown in hot olive oil with a table- 
spoonful of chopped green herbs; drain them on brown 
paper, and serve them hot. 

MUTTON CUTLETS A LA MILANAISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 lb. mutton cutlets ------ 16 cents. 

X " macaroni -------4" 

2 oz. Parmesan cheese ----- 4 " 
Bread crumbs, egg, and fat for frying - - 6 " 

Total - - - - - 30 cents. 



204 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

(1.) Trim the cutlets free from fiit, bread tliem as di- 
rected in the receipts for fried filets on pages 32 and 33, 
mixing a little grated Parmesan cheese with the bread 
crumbs, and fry them light brown in half an ounce of but- 
ter, seasoning them with a teaspoonful of salt. (2.) 
Meantime, boil the macaroni as directed on page 40, put 
in a mound in the center of a dish, dust it with the rest of 
the grated Parmesan, arrange the cutlets ai-ound it, and 
serve the dish hot. 

FRENCH BEANS SAUTE AUX FINES HERBES. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. string beans ------ 5 cents. 

Butter and herbs - - - - - - -5" 

Total 10 cents. 

Cook the beans as directed in the receipt for boiling 

Green Vegetables on page 50; toss them over the fire till 

hot with an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped 

green herbs, a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a saltspoon- 

ful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; serve 

them hot. 

FILET DE BCEUF A LA MACEDOINE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

S lbs. of filet otheet ----- $1.50 

Soup vegetables ----- 5 

1 qt. stock ------- .12 

}£ lb. larding pork - - - - - 5 

1 pt. string beans - - - _ - 5 

Cauliflower and asparagus - - - - .10 

Carrots and turnips ----- 5 

Total - - - - $1.92 

(1.) Lard the filet as directed in the receijit for Frican- 
deau of Veal. Lay it in a sauce-pan on a bed of scraps 
of vegetables and trimmings of larding pork. Cover it 
with stock and simmer it an hour, or until tender. (2.) 
Meantime cut the carrots and turnips in the form of olives, 
the beans in diamonds, half a cauliflower in little branches. 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 205 



half a bunch of asparagus in aspr^ragus peas, and cook 
them in separate vessels, as directed in the receipt for 
Green Vegetables on page 50. When the Jilet is done, heat 
these vegetables separately in a little of the broth it has 
been cooked in, dish it and arrange them around it in little 
groups; strain over it enough of the broth to moisten it, 

and serve it hot. 

ITALIAN SALAD. 

INGREDIENTS. 

1 pt. green peas ------ 5 cents. 

1 " string beans '^ " 

Carrot, turnip and beet 3 

Cauliflower and asparagus - - - - - 10 * 

Oil, vinegar and seasonings - - - - 5 ' 

Total ----- 28 cents. 

(1.) Shell the peas. Cut off the asparagus heads. Cut 
the beans in diamonds. Peel and slice the carrot and tur- 
nip, and cut them in cylinders quarter of an inch thick 
and an inch long. Cut the cauliflower in little branches. 
(2.) Boil all these vegetables and lay them in cold water 
to preserve their color, as directed on page 50. (3.) Boil 
the beet as directed in the receipt for Cardinal Sauce on 
page 152, and cut it in cylinders like the carrot and turnip. 
(4.") Arrange all the vegetables on a salad dish, dress them 
witli two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, a tcaspoon- 
fuJ of salt and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and 
serve the salad. 

TO GLACE FRUIT AND NUTS. 

INGREDIENTS. 

IW lbs. of loaf sugar ----- 30 cents. 

in " 
1^ " Malaga grajpes ----- lu 

2 oranges ------- 

3^ lb French chestnuts - - - " ^^ 

Total 49 cents. 

(1.) Slit the chesnut shells, roast the nuts about twenty 
minutes, and then peel off the shells and skins. Cut the 



206 COOKING SCHOOL TEXT BOOK. 

grapes in small bunches. Peel and quarter the oranges, 
taking care not to break the inner skin, and dry them by 
the fire. (2.) Put the sugar into a copper sn gar boiler, 
with three gills of cold water, and bring it slowly to a boil. 
As often as the sugar boils up lift the boiler an instant to 
check the boiling, and when it falls wipe the sngar from 
the sides of the boiler with a clean, wet cloth. Have a 
bowl of cold water by the fire, and Avhen the sugar boils 
up in large air bubbles dip a little stick into it, and then 
quickly into the cold water; if the sugar crackles and 
breaks easily away from the stick it has boiled to the 
proper point. It may be necessary to test it several times, 
and care should be taken not to let it boil an instant longer 
than necessary. The moment the proper point is reached 
take the boiler from the fire and glace the fruit. (3.) 
Have each nut and piece of fruit stuck on a thin skewer; 
dip the fruit into the sugar, and lay the skewer on a sieve 
so that the fruit hangs over the edge, and so that no two 
pieces touch. The sugar will harden quickly, and then 
the fruit may be laid on a dish until required for use. The 
grapes may be held by the stem and moved about in the 
sugar until they are covered with it.- (4.) A clear day 
should always be chosen for preparing fruit in this way, 
because dampness softens the sugar and makes it run. 

gAtEAU DE PEINCESSE LOUISE. 

INGREDIENTS. 

Sponge Cake sheet ------ 10 cents. 

Material for Cream Cakes - - - - 25 " 

1 pt. cream - - - - - - - 20 " 

Sugar and flavoring - - - - - 5 ** 

}4 lb. glace fruit and nuts - - - - - 40 " 

Total - - - - $1.00 

(1.) Make a pafe-cJioux paste and cream as for Cream 
Cakes ;put part of the paste on the baking pan in a hollow 
ring as large as a dinner plate, and the rest by the tea- 



THE LADIES' COURSE. 207 

spoonful in little puffs; bake them, and fill them with the 
cream as directed in the receipt for Cream Cakes. (3.) 
Glace some nuts and fruit as directed in the previous re- 
ceipt. (3.) Cut the sponge cake sheet to fit the outer 
edge of the rim of imte-choux paste, and fasten the rim to 
it with a little of the glacL (4.) Glace the little puffs, 
and fasten them upon the rim; ornament it profusely 
with the glace fruit and nuts. (5.) Sweeten and flavor 
the cream to taste, and whip it to a stiff froth, taking off 
tlie froth as fast as it appears firm, and draining it upon a 
sieve. (6.) When it is half done color the remainder 
bright pink with a few drops of raspberry or strawberry 
syrup, and finish whipping it, draining it on a second 
sieve. (7. When all the cream is whipped fill the gateau 
with it, blending the white and pink cream tastefully; 
keep the gateau very cold until wanted for use. 




PART V. 

APPENDIX. 
CHAPTEK I. 

THE PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION". 

The principles of economy which form the basis of the 
system of instruction followed in the N. Y. School of 
Cookery underlie the mere culinary treatment of food. In 
order to comprehend the possibilities of frugal living, some 
study must be made of the proportionate nutritive value 
and economy of the best known alimentary substances. 
This appendix is designed to present these facts to pupils 
in a form sufficiently popular to admit of their application 
to every-day use. 

To make our system perfectly clear, we must ask atten- 
tion for an outline wliich at first sight may seem rather pro- 
saic, but wliich will be found not only indispensable to the 
success of oLir teaching:, but will srrow interostino; as it is de- 
velopcd and practically illustrated. We shall successively 
discuss the following points: 

The physiological composition of the body and the ele- 
ments necessary to the maintenance of health which are 
supplied to it through the medium of food. 

The requisite amount and variety of food. 

The action of the digestive organs upon food. 

The economic value of food. 

The alimentary action of condiments. 

Beverages and their nutritive values. 

The effect of cookery upon food. 



PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION. 209 

PHYSIOLOGICAL COMPOSITION OF THE BODY. 

Experimental physiology plainly indicates those sub- 
stances which enter into the composition of our bodies, and 
thus clearly points out the elements we must supply to it 
through the medium of food. In order to fully explain 
our meaning, we briefly recapitulate Dr. Edward Smith's 
summary of physical constituents: 

Flesh and blood are composed of water, fat, fibrin, al- 
bumen, gelatin, and the compounds of lime, phosphorus, 
soda, potash, magnesia, silica, iron, and some extractive 
matters. 

Bone contains cartilage, gelatin, fat, and the salts of 
lime, magnesia, soda, and potash, combined with phosphoric 
and other acids. 

Cartilage consists of chondrin, wliich resembles gelatin, 
together with the salts of sulphur, lime, soda, potash, phos- 
phorus, magnesia, and iron. 

Bile has in its substance water, fat, resin, sugar, choles- 
trin, some fatty and organic acids, and the salts of potash^ 
iron, and soda. 

The brain is made up of water, albumen, fat, phosphoric 
acid, osmazome, and salts. 

The liver unites water, fat, and albumen, with phos- 
phoric and other acids, and lime, iron, soda, and potash. 

The lungs are formed of a substance resembling gelatin, 
another analogous to casein; and albumen, fibrin, choles- 
trin, iron, water, soda, and various fatty and organic 
acids. 

CORRESPONDIN^G ELEMENTS PRESENT IN POOD. 

All these elements exist in our common foods. Thus 
we find water in the different beverages, in fruits, suc- 
culent vegetables, eggs, fish, meat, cheese, the cereals, and 
even in fats. 

Fat exists in butter, lard, drippings, milk, eggs, cheese, 



210 APPENDIX. 



fish, meat, the cereals, the leguminous vegetables, nuts, 
cocoa, and chocolate. 

Sugar abounds in fruits and vegetables, and is more or less 
apparent in milk and cereals. Starch, which in the pro- 
cess of digestion is changed into glucose or grape sugar, is 
present in vegetables and cereals. 

Fat, starch, and sugar are the principal heat foods, and 
are found chiefly in vegetables and cereals. 

Fibrin, albumen, casein, gelatin, and gluten are the 
chief nitrogenous, or flesh foods, and are found both in 
ani' 1 and vegetable substances, the greater proportion of 
the LOur first elements being present in flesh, and the latter 
in veoetables- 

The variou>3' salts exist in both animal and vegetable 
^ods. Phosphorus, lime, and magnesia are found in meat, 
^sh, the cereals, and potatoes. Soda is largely present in 
common salt, but also exists in common with potash in 
many vegetables. Potash is present in meat, fish, milk, 
/egotables, and fruits. Iron abounds in flesh, and vege- 
tables. Siili)huris found in fibrin, albumen, and casein. 

SUITABLE CHOICE OF DIET. 

Upon the first consideration of this subject, it might 
seem possible that errors in judgment might arise pending 
selection from such varied food resources; but it is the fact 
that different races of men habitually use those foods which 
are best suited to enable them to resist the physical waste 
caused by labor or climate. Nature has given us an uner- 
ring guide to a proper choice of diet. An unperverted ap- 
petite is tiie voice of the physical system making known its 
needs, and it may always be trusted to indicate the foods 
necessary to the preservation of health. Of course, the 
amount of nutriment required by individuals will vary with 
their occupations and habits, as well as with their mental 
conditions; but this does not preclude the desirability or 
necessity for fixed dietaries and specific bills of fare. It only 



PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION. 211 

involves discrimination in their use. For, wliile, on the 
one hand, circumstances and occupation affect the choice of 
food, on the other, serious physical disarrangements can be 
largely counteracted by the judicious selection of aliment- 
ary substances. 

AMOUNT AND VARIETY OF FOOD REQUISITE TO HEALTH. 

Plenty of nutritious food is required early in the morn- 
ing, for two reasons; the hours of sleep are tliose in which 
the vital forces draw upon the nourishment stored in the 
blood for their reenforcement, and the activity of the di- 
gestive organs demands a fresh supply of alimentary mat- 
ter for distribution throughout the system. The following 
is our plan for the dietary of healthy adults. 

BREAKFAST. 

One pint of hot coffee or cocoa, or half a pint of choco- 
late, with a palatable addition of milk and sugar; quarter 
of a pound of bread, made of whole meal, (i. e., Graham 
flour,) if possible; one ounce, or less, of butter; some 
warmed-over potatoes, and two eggs, or quarter of a pound 
of fresh or salt meat or fish. Cereals in any form are a 
valuable addition to this meal. 

DINNER. 

A mid-day dinner is preferable, when it is possible to 
obtain it, because the burden of the day's labor is not yet 
done, and the system demands abundant nourishment in 
order to accomplish it. The repast should consist of half 
a pint of soup, or three ounces of fish and a quarter of a 
pound of meat, accompanied by an equal quantity of bread 
and half a pound of vegetables. A plain, nutritious pud- 
ding and some fruit may conclude the meal. A little 
strong coffee or cheese may be often used with advantage 
to digestion. 

SUPPER. 

When the dinner is eaten at noon, the supper, or tea, 
should consist of a pint of tea or milk, with sugar, bread 



212 APPENDIX. 



and butter, and a couple of ounces of meat or cheese, as a 
relish; some farinaceous food, and plain biscuit or crack- 
ers. Rich cake and pickles should be avoided. At all 
times this meal should be light and eaten early in the even- 
ing, so that the labor of digestion can be completed before 
the hour of retiring. 

Til ere are many persons who, from choice or occupation, 
dine at a late hour. In that case the meal should not be 
later than seven o'clock, and should be comparatively light 
if the digestion is at all impaired; for an accumulation of 
undigested food in the stomach and intestines will preclude 
the possibility of a comfortable or healtliy slumber. 

ACTION OF THE DIGESTIVE ORGANS ON FOOD. 

We are all sensible of the attractions which a well-spread 
table possesses for a hungry man; but we do not always re- 
member the fact that the delicate food which lias exercised 
the skill of both caterer and cook is only the comparatively 
raw material which we are forced to draw upon for the daily 
supply of our physical needs. 

The labor of procuring food and preparing it for the ta- 
ble fails to answer the end for which it was undertaken, un- 
less, after the eating, we can derive from it those elements 
we need to maintain us in health and strength. All nutri- 
ment must travel the road from the stomach to the blood 
without hindrance, in order to meet the requirements of 
life. 

The importance of this part of the subject must be ap- 
parent to the most careless observer, and after what we 
have already said regarding the close relation between food 
and health, we think all our pupils and readers will follow 
us with interest in our endeavor to give a popular resitme 
of the workings of the digestive system. If we have studied 
this particular branch of physiology at school, many of us 
have forgotten it, as we do forget most of the abstract 
knowledge of school before we have been a year away from 



PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION. 213 

it; but the revival of some of it8 points is absolutely neces- 
sary if we want to know the meaning of life and intend to 
enjoy it. 

THE USE OF APPETITE. 

It is a pernicious habit of thought which leads persons 
to disregard the claims of appetite. Those vain reasoners 
who seek to cast discredit upon this wonderful human me- 
chanism, which is the greatest work in nature, by decry- 
ing our physical attributes and disregarding our daily ne- 
cessities in ostensible care for our spiritual or intellectual 
parts, are quite sure to pay the penalty of their indiffer- 
ence or neglect. The wrong thoy do themselves and 
others recoils npon their own heads. Before half their 
allotted term of life has expired they are unable to perform 
its functions, and they lose their hold npon it before their 
time. 

WHY FOOD MUST BE DIGESTED. 

Food is generally of a solid consistency and needs to 
undergo definite changes before its nntriment can be 
imjiarted to the blood. Not only must some of its ele- 
ments be changed, but it must also be reduced to a semi- 
liquid state. Even in the case of substances whicli solidify 
in the temperature of the stomach, or of the foods with 
which they are combined in cooking — such as milk, blood 
and eggs — they must undergo reliquefaction before they 
can be digested. Hence, the first office of the digestive or- 
gans is to disintegrate the particles of food and resolve 
them into a sort of emulsion, which the absorbent system 
can take up and transmit to the blood, where nutriment 
is stored preparatory to the renewal of the wasted atoms 
of the body. 

Digestion is a complicated process, not confined solely to 
that much-abused organ, the stomach. That part of our 
bodies called the alimentary canal, through which the 
food must pass during digestion, consists of many com- 



214 APPENDIX. 



partments, united to each other by tubes and openings. 
Each compartment has its own specilic work to do in the 
process of changing food into nutriment. This process 
beo-ins in the mouth, wher6 food is masticated and sub- 
jected to tlie action of the saliva. 

MASTICATIOJ^. 

Mastication, or chewing our food, is the only part of 
digestion which is left to our discretion. It is also tlie 
one whicli is indifferently performed in many cases, and 
thus becomes the fruitful parent of countless bodily ills. 
When food is 'Mjolted," instead of being thoroughly mas- 
ticated, it readies tlie stomach in lumps of different sizes, 
instead of being reduced to that even moist pulp upon 
which the gastric juices of the stomach can act. It is 
taxed beyond its powers in reducing these lumps of food to 
the consistency it must acquire before it can leave the 
stomach. The soft coats and yielding tissues of that or- 
gan are forced to do the grinding and tearing work in- 
tended for the teeth. The time of digestion is greatly 
lengthened, and from this overtaxation spring the first 
seeds of dyspepsia. AVlien food is properly divided by the 
teeth, the second step toward digestion takes place in the 
mouth. It is called insalivation, or the proper mixture of 
the alkaline saliva with food. 

i:n^salivation. 

Insalivation serves a double purpose, by moistening food 
and helping to dissolve its most soluble parts. It would 
be impossible by simple mastication to reduce food to that 
semi-liquid condition in which it can be noted upon by the 
fluids of the stomach; and, hence, Ave can understand at 
once the important office of the saliva, which flows freely 
into the mouth durino: mastication, and mins^les with the 
food, until it is reduced to a soft paste. The saliva, by 
softening and partly dissolving food, enables the organs of 
taste to distino^uish flavors. The loii2:er we chew a morsel 



PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION. 215 



of food, iind tliemore thoroughly we mix it witli thesfdiva, 
the more we heigliten lis flavor and increase our own enjoy- 
ment. This fact alone sliould teach us the importance of 
thorough mastication, for it is an obvious proof that Nature 
designed the process to be pleasant enough to indnce us to 
prolong it. Insalivation mingles globules of air with our 
food. These contain oxygen, the universal promoter of 
chemical chanoes in the system, and thus besfin the trans- 
formation of food, or its digestion, which is its change into 
the elements of nutriment which are to be mingled with 
the blood. It also ])artly transforms starch into glucose, 
or grape sugnr. This change is arrested during the passnge 
of food through the ncid gastric juice of the stomach, and 
is resumed under tlic influence of the alkaline intesti- 
nal fluids. A familiar instance of this elementary change 
may be cited in the case of bread, which, being chewed long- 
enough to become well mixed with the saliva, acquii-es a 
very sweet taste, from the fact that the starch it contjiins 
has undergone the partial change into sugar. 

The flow of saliva seems to depend upon either the sight 
or the thought of food. Even the idea of a palatable meal 
'* makes the mouth water." The quantity of the secretion 
depends upon the character of food. Brinton gives the 
average proportion as follows: with the use of juicy fruit, 
four per cent.; with meat, about fifty per cent., and with 
hard bread or crackers, as much as one hundred and fifty 
per cent. The use of spices augments the secretion of sa- 
liva, 

ENTRANCE OF FOOD INTO THE STOifACH. 

Mastication and insalivation are followed by deglutition, 
or swallowing. The food passes from the mouth into a 
tube or canal, called the oesophagus, which has the power 
of circular contraction, and forces its contents down into 
the stomach, v.hich is a pouch-shaped enlargement of the 
alimentary canal. The largest part lies under theoesopha- 



218 APPENDIX. 



gus, on the right side of the body, and the smaller end, 
connected with the small intestine, is situated toward the 
left. The stomach generally holds about three pints, but 
is larger when the food is of a coarse texture and bulky 
consistency. 

On entering the stomach, the food is carried around it 
by a kind of churning motion, which is caused by the ac- 
tion of two layers of muscles, running lengthways and cross- 
ways, aud capable of expansion and contraction in all di- 
rections. The object of the motion is to change the relative 
position of tlie particles of food, so that they are brought 
successively into contact with the digestive fluid, and pre- 
pared for passage into the small intestine by being reduced 
to a semi-liquid consistency. Tlie food traverses the stom- 
ach in about three minutes, and the motion continues from 
one to three hours, during which time the gastric juice is 
poured out and mingled with it, until all its nutritive prop- 
erties available in stomach digestion are converted into tlie 
milky substance called chyme. In this condition some por- 
tions of it are absorbed by the stomach, as we shall now 
explain. 

GASTRIC JUICE AND STOMACH DIGESTION. 

The gastric juice is a compound fluid made up of several 
substances, the chief of which are pepsin and lactic acid. 
It is secreted by the walls of the stomach when food is in- 
troduced into it; but not when the stomach is empty. It 
affects only that class of elements which we have made 
familiar under the name of nitrogenous foods, such as the 
lean part of flesh, the gluten of bread and cereals, the casein 
of milk, the albumen or gluten of vegetables, the fiber of 
fish, and the white of eggs. Neither starch, sugar, nor 
oil undergo any chemical change of elements in the stom- 
ach. Starch is hyd rated or gelatinized by the moisture 
and heat of the stomach, which is about 100 degrees, and 
the fats are melted by the same temperature. The cellu- 



PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION. 217 

lar tissue of fat meat is dissolved and the oil set free, while 
the lean is converted into chyme. The gluten of bread and 
the albumen or casein of cheese are digested, while the 
starch of the former and the oil of the latter remain undi- 
gested until they reach the small intestine. The absorp- 
tion of food really begins in the stomach, where some of its 
extremely liquid portions pass at once into the blood by a 
process known as osmosis; that is, the passage of fluids 
through animal membranes. 

INTESTINAL DIGESTION. 

From the stomach the chyme and undigested food pass 
into the duodenum, or upper part of the small intestine, 
which is tlie third compartment of the alimentary canal. 
Here the starch is acted upon by the mixed intestinal and 
l)ancreatic fluids, and entirely changed into sugar and pre- 
pared for absorption. These fluids are capable of digest- 
ing any nitrogenous matters which may have escaped the 
action of the gastric juice. The fats and oils, both animal 
and vegetable, now remain to be digested. Heretofore, as 
we have already said, they have only been melted; now 
they pass the upper pjirt of the small intestine and unite 
with the pancreatic juice, which changes the oil globules 
into a white, opaque fluid, called chyle, which can be ab- 
sorbed. 

The different elements of food, converted by the diges- 
tive fluids into this semi-liquid state and prepared for ab- 
sorption, may be classified ns follows. 

1. Albumenoid substances, or chyme, which is produced 
by the action of the gastric juice upon nitrogenous mat- 
ters in the stomach. 

2. Glucose, or grape sugar, the formation of which is be- 
gun in the mouth by the alkaline action of the saliva, sus- 
pended in the stomach by the acid reaction of the gastric 
juice; and completed in the duodenum by the alkaline in- 
testinal fluids. 



218 APPENDIX. 

3. Chyle or lymph, an oily, milk-white emulsion, yield- 
ed by fats under the action of the intestinal fluids. 

HOW kutkime:nt is absorbed ixto the blood. 
There are two kinds of absorption, osmotic and lacteal. 
We hare already referred to the osmotic absorption, which 
takes place in the stomach, and is continued in the intes- 
tine wherever chyme or glucose is present, and the lacteal 
absorption of chyle, which is performed by a set of vessels 
terminating all along the inner surface of the intestine. 
Thence the nutritive matters enter the receptacle for chyle, 
which lies in the abdominal cavity, close to the spine. 
Here the large vessel called the thoracic duct takes up the 
nutritive fluid, carries it upward, and discharges it into the 
general circulation through the left sub-clavian vein, which 
lies in the left side of the neck, under the collar-bone. 

HOW NUTRIMENT IS ASSIMILATED WITH THE BLOOD. 

Assimilation is the mingling of the nutritive fluid with 
the blood. Some physiologists believe that the albumcnoid 
substances and glucose lose tlieir identity during their 
passage through the thoracic duct, so that when its con- 
tents arrive at the entrance to the general circulation, they 
are already so perfectly prepared for assimilation with the 
blood that the union results in a well-nourished fluid, ca- 
pable of revivifying the body. The chyle which passes 
into the circulation by this medium, is not assimilated to 
any great extent during its passage through the thoracic 
duct; and that part of it which is absorbed through the 
membranes of the intestines by the capillaries passes di- 
rectly through the liver, with but little change of elements. 
Thence the oily matters are carried to the right side of the 
heart, and subsequently into the lungs. There they lose 
their identity, unless they have been used in excessive quan- 
tities, when they remain perceptible in the blood until they 
are gradually withdrawn to meet the requirements of nu- 
trition. 



PHYSIOLOGY OF NUTRITION. 219 

THE MECHAXICAL PART OF DIGESTION. 

The churning movement already spoken of as taking 
place in the stomach, is the beginning of the mechanical 
part of digestion which is known as peristaltic action. 
This action is continued in the intestines wherever food 
comes in contact with their mucous membrane. This 
contact causes a local irritation, from the effects of which 
the circular muscular fibers of the intestine contract, and 
the diameter of the intestine is decreased at that point 
until its contents are forced downward into another sec- 
tion. The contraction follows the downward passage of 
the food, while the part originally contracted is rehixcd to 
its former proportions. Thus a slow, creeping motion is 
continued from above down v>'ard. At the same time the 
straight muscular fibers of the intestine, which pass from 
end to end of it, draw its contracted portions upward, and 
then lower them as they relax, thus causing a peculiar 
writhing, worm-like motion, whicli perfects the down- 
ward movement of the food. 

During the passage of the food through the alimentary 
canal its nutritive matters are undergoing absorption, so 
tliat by the time it has reached the end of the small in- 
testine nothing remains but the indigestible portions, 
which cannot be converted into food. These pass into the 
large intestine, where they become feces. 

THE USE OF WASTE MATTER IN FOOD. 

Nature, being a rigid economist, permits nothing to ex- 
ist without a use. These indigestible portions facilitate 
digestion in two ways: first, by increasing the volume of 
food, and rendering it less compact and solid, they expose 
it more thoroughly to the action of the digestive fluids; 
and, second, by increasing peristaltic action by the irrita- 
tion they cause during their passage through the alimen- 
tary canal. If it were not for the presence of this waste 
matter, peristaltic action would almost entirely cease, as 



220 APPENDIX. 



the nutritive portions of food are constantly being absorbed 
daring their passage through the stomach and small in- 
testine; constipation would follow, and Nature would lose 
a valuable agent for removing the worn-out matter which 
accumulates in the body. This fact proves that food ought 
not to be all nutrition and capable of entire absorption, if 
it is to serve the purposes of health. 

COXSTIPATIN^G A^D EELAXIi^G FOOD. 

For the reasons given above, we can see the comparative 
A^alue of constipating and relaxing foods. All highly con- 
centrated nutriments, such as eggs, milk, meat, and the 
gluten of wheat, belong to the first class, because they 
afford no indigestible matter to promote the action of the 
bowels. The relaxing foods are preparations of unbolted 
flour, rye and corn breads, and fruit and vegetables. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 

The chemical composition of various articles of food so 
closely indicates their economic value that the study of 
these two points must be identical. 

The present limit of space precludes the admission of 
sj^ecial tables of analysis of different alimentary sub- 
stances, but their general characteristics can be ascertained 
clearly enough from the following matter to answer the or- 
dinary requirements of our pupils and readers. We shall 
treat simultaneously the chemical composition and the 
economic value of food. 

In considering the economic value of food we must fix 
upon some well-known article in general use as the stand- 
ard to which we can compare others. For instance, beef 
being the best-known and most important animal food, Ave 
shall choose it as the standard for that class of substances. 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 221 

Wheaten flour jind dried peas will serve as the represent- 
atives of vegetable aliments. The comparison would be 
closer if we could take lentils as our standard, as it will be 
seen by a glance at the following table that they are the 
most nutritious of all vegetables. However, we najne wheat 
because it is much more familiar to the public generally. 
This table of the nitrogenous (i. e., the flesh-forming) 
value of different foods is compiled from the catalogue of 
the Food Gallery at South Kensington, England. 

About an equal quantity of nitrogenous elements exists 
in 

8 ounces (X lb.) of lean beef Cost about 6 cents. 

10 " dried lentils - - - - 7 " 

11 " di'ied peas or beans - - 5 " 

12 " cocoa-nibs - - - - 20 " 

14 " tea - - - - - 40 " 

15 " oatmeal - - - - 5 " 
1 poimd 1 ounce wheat flour - - - 4 " 
1 " 1 " coffee - - - - - 30 " 
1 " 2 " rye meal - - - - 5 " 
1 " 3 " bai-ley meal - - - - 5 " 
1 " 5 " Indian meal - - - 5 " 

1 " 13 " buckwheat flour - - - 10 " 

2 " — " wheaten bread - - 10 " 
2 " 6 " rice - - - - - 20 " 
5 " 3 " cabbage - - - - 10 " 
5 " 3 " onions - - - - - 15 " 

7 " 13 " parsnips - - - - 15 " 

8 " 15 " turnips 9 " 

10 " 7 " potatoes - - - - 10 " 

15 " 10 " carrots 15 " 

We must not attach too much importance to the seeming 
value of tea, coffee, and cocoa, as indicated by this table, 
unless w^e intend to consume with our half pound of meat 
nearly a pound dry weight of either at one meal. We use 
such comparatively small quantities of these articles of 
diet that their real nutritive value is very low, their 
alimentary use being due to the sense of warmth and 
comfort which we derive from them. We must also re- 



223 APPENDIX. 



member that the above weights are supposed to be of the 
dry, uncooked material, aud that the process of cooking al- 
ters their weight considerably. Take, for instance, the two 
first articles, meat and lentils. The half pound of meat in 
boiling will lose about one-fourth of its substance, while 
the lentils will be augmented at least three times in volume, 
so that it will be seen that the quantity of food when 
cooked must be considered, as well as its price. 

VALUE OF DIFFERENT MEATS. 

The different kinds of meat vary greatly, so far as their 
comparative nutriment is concerned. We get nearly three 
times as much carbon, or heat-food, from equal weights of fat 
salt pork or bacon as'^from the same quantity of beef, while 
the amount of nitrogen, or flesh-food is nearly equal. This 
fact will show at a glance that a poor man would exercise 
the greatest economy in buying the fat bacon, on account 
of its excess of carbon, and in combining it in cooking 
with vegetables which contain an excess of nitrogen, such 
as peas, cabbage, etc. We need only to refer to the fore- 
going table to prove the importance of peas, beans, and len- 
tils in this connection, and to justify our persistent recom- 
mendation of them to those persons who wish to choose 
economical as well as wholesome food. In buying pork 
and bacon, excessively salt brands should be avoided, be- 
cause all the salt used in excess of that required to preserve 
the meat extracts many of its valuable juices and mineral 
salts, especially if it is kept in brine. Meats cured partly 
by smoking are preferable to the pickled sorts, for this 
reason, as well as for the valuable antiscjotic effect of the 
smoke. 

The flesh of young animals contains less nutriment than 
that of full-grown ones, and its shrinkage in cooking is 
greater, on account of the water it presents. In full-grown 
meats the waste in boiling or stewing, with the pot closely 
covered, is about one pound in four; in baking, one pound 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 323 



and a quarter; in roasting before the fire, one pound and 
a half; The waste is much greater in careless cooking, 
when the oven-door is left open or the cover is not kept on 
the pot. The flesh of mountain sheep and cattle is said to 
be richer in nitrogenous elements than any other, and, 
consequently, preferable, when tender. 

PERCENTAGE OF FAT AKD BONE. 

The difierent joints of meat vary in economic value ac- 
cording to the quantity of fat and bone which they contain, 
as well as the density or looseness of their texture. The lat- 
ter point is important. A piece of meat of a loose, fibrous 
texture shrinks more in cooking in proportion to its weight 
than one that has a close, firm fiber. Tlie fat of a full-fed 
liealthy animal is about one-third of its entire weight, and 
varies in its distribution, the largest quantity being present 
in the loin. The percentage of fat is a little less than one- 
half in prime mutton and three-fourths in fat pork. Game 
and poultry arc much leaner than meat. 

The percentage of bone varies in different joints. For 
instance, there is very little bone in the loin and upper 
part of the leg, nearly one-half the entire weight in the 
sliin, and about one-tenth in the other parts of the carcass. 
The proportion of bone in prime mutton and pork is much 
less than that present in beef, because the bones are much 
smaller and the amount of fat greater. Bones are exceed- 
ingly useful in the preparation of soups and stews; especi- 
ally the bones of the leg, which contain the marrow. Ex- 
periments made by Dr. Edward Smith proved that three 
pounds of bone would yield as much carbon, and six pounds 
as much nitrogen as one pound of meat. The bones were 
chopped fine and boiled slowly for nine hours. These facts 
prove the use that can be made of a part of the animal very 
generally considered as refuse, especially for soup. 

EDIBLE ENTRAILS. 

Another very important part of the animal structure is 



334 APPENDIX. 

too often thrown aside as useless, except perhaps for the fat 
it yields in the mass. We refer to the edible entrails, such 
as the haslet, tripe, etc. This portion of the animal yields 
quite i\s, much nitrogen as the solid flesh, and some parts 
of it — the liver, for instance — much more. In Europe, 
where the meat supply is more limited than in this coun- 
try, this fact is understood, and these organs are very 
generally used as food. We have thrown all our influence 
into the scale of public opinion on this point, in order 
to induce people to satisfy themselves by experiment of the 
actual nutritive value of this sort of food. Combined with 
potatoes, onions, cereals, or leguminous vegetables, the nu- 
tritive value equals, and in some cases exceeds that of meat, 
while the cost is far less. 

We have been thus explicit in regard to meat because it 
is so highly and so unduly esteemed as an article of food, 
especially by the poorer classes, who attach an exaggerated 
importance to it; probably because they do not have all 
they want of it, and also because they do not understand 
the real nutritive worth of vegetable foods. 

FISH, EGGS, MILK, AND CHEESE. 

Estimating the nitrogenous elements present in fish on 
the basis of the South Kensington Food Catalogue, we find 
that a pound of red-blooded fish is equal to about eiglit 
pounds of potatoes, and that its value as food is less than 
that of meat. On the other hand it is much more abun- 
dant and cheaper, and many varieties are well-flavored and 
palatable. It, therefore, becomes an important article of 
diet, especially upon the seaboard and in lake and river 
towns. 

The nutritive value of milk and eggs is very generally 
understood; and the point to be considered in relation to 
them is their price, which varies with the season. 

Cheese is au exceedingly valuable food. It has long been 
held at its true value in Europe, and is beginning to be 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 225 

properly estimated in this country, as its recent addition 
to our army ration-list proves. From two to four ounces 
of cheese, with plenty of bread, makes a hearty meal, even 
for a laborer. Its actual nutritive merit depends upon the 
percentage of fat and casein which it contains. It is at its 
best stage when it is about six months old, and has begun 
to lose its value when it has become sharp or bitter. Cream 
cheese is the most nutritious. That which has been im- 
properly made or badly kept is not so good as the prime 
quality. English dairy and American factory cheese of 
good brands are the best for economic use. 

ECONOMIC AND NUTRITIVE VALUE OF THE POTATO. 

By reference to the preceding table of food values, it will 
be seen that potatoes occupy a comparatively low position 
in the scale; but it is, nevertheless, the fact that they are 
one of the most valuable and economical of foods. Dr. 
Edward Smith says that in the west of Ireland la- 
borers are allowed 10 1-2 pounds of potatoes per day as a 
ration, together with plenty of buttermilk; an abundant 
supply, when we consider the fact that 8 pounds of potatoes 
contains all the nitrogen a man needs for health, and more 
than enough carbon. As compared with wheat flour, pota- 
toes contain 770 grains of carbon and 24 grains of nitrogen 
to a pound; while wheat flour contains to each pound 2,000 
graiiis of carbon and 120 grains of nitrogen. The avenige 
cost of a pound of potatoes is 1 cent, and of a pound of me- 
dium quality of flour, 4 cents. The economic compai-ison 
can easily be made, even considering the variation from 
this standard of cost which must occur at different seasons. 

The mild and agreeable flavor of the potato, its whole- 
some character, and the possibility of combining it witli 
various other foods, make it a favorite vegetable; while the 
advanta2:e of beino- able to obtain it at anv season of the 
year makes it invaluable to the household purveyor. It is 
best, however, in summer, autumn and winter. When 



SC6 APPENDIX. 



the spring approaches a change of elements takes place 
preparatory to germination or sprouting, and its nutritive 
value is diminished. New potatoes, if not full grown, are 
less nutritious than mature ones. Waxy potatoes are less 
digestible than mealy ones, but more hearty, because of the 
length of time they remain in the stomach. Potatoes that 
are a little underdone are more satisfactory to the appetite 
for this reason; and it is the case that in localities where 
potatoes form the staple diet of the laboring classes they 
are preferred rather underdone — (i. e., '^with a bone in 
them.'') 

The different methods of cooking potatoes do not affect 
their nutritive value, but there is a greater waste in some 
than in others. For instance, unless raw potatoes are 
large and very carefully peeled, the loss will be nearly one- 
fourth; while if they are peeled after cooking the waste 
will not exceed one-fifteenth. Again, if potatoes are boiled 
in their jackets, they will not waste more than one ounce 
in a pound; while if they are baked the loss will be about 
one-fiftli, even if they are eaten the moment they are done, 
and if tliey are allowed to stand and shrivel, the waste is 
nearly one-fourth the entire weight. 

ALIMENTARY ACTION OF CONDIMENTS. 

While young people do not require condiments, 
either to stimulate taste or appetite, they are very use- 
ful to persons whose digestion and desire for food is im- 
paired. 

We give salt the first rank among condiments, on ac- 
count of its important bearing on the general health. A 
grown person absolutely requires from a quarter to half an 
ounce of salt daily to keep him in good health. The ac- 
tual value of salt cannot be more forcibly illustrated than 
by citing that oft-quoted old Dutch punishment of con- 
demning criminals to a diet of unsalted food. The effects 
are said to have been unmitigated physical torture, ending 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 227 

in death. On the other hand, its excessive use hinders de- 
structive assimilation. 

All condiments increase our relish for food by simulat- 
ing the How of saliva and gastric juice and by enhancing 
the flavor of the food. When this effect is produced, the 
pleasure of eating is greatly increased. We digest our food 
more readily and assimilate it more perfectly, so that we 
really derive more nutriment from well-seasoned food than 
from that which is so insipid as to create disgust with the 
first taste. 

Many condiments possess actual medicinal properties, in 
addition to that which we have already attributed to salt. 
Pepper is a carminative stimulant, and its action is to aid 
digestion, and to prevent or abate flatulence. The spices 
which <)nter into many of the table-sauces properly included 
among condiments are grateful stomachics, which assist 
digestion, and dispel nausea. Ginger is especially valua- 
ble as a stimulating tonic, particularly in hot weather and in 
very wai-m climates. Lemon juice and vinegar, used in mod- 
eration, increase the solvent properties of the gastric juice. 

In very hot climates condiments are used habitually and 
excessively, and are believed to counteract the languor 
produced by the extreme heat, as well as to fortify the sys- 
tem against the approach of local diseases, such as fevers 
caused by malarious influences. In Asia asafoetida is large- 
ly used as a condiment, especially in the mountain districts. 
Its flavor is based upon the same alliaceous principle which 
marks the taste of onions, shalots, leeks, and garlic. These 
vegetables may be ranked as condiments, for they are gen- 
erally used simply for seasoning purposes. 

As Ave have already indicated, all condiments should be 
used with reference to their direct effects upon individuals, 
and always in moderation. 

WATER AND OTHErl BEVERAGES. 

The action of water upon the system is marked and im- 



228 APPENDIX. 



portant, and it is necessary tliat all students of cookery 
should understand its effect upon food when it is used 
with it. 

"Water is indispensable to tlie healthy operation of our 
physical functions. It enters into the composition of the 
body to the extent of, at least, two-thirds of its substance; 
and the blood, tlie great circulating medium by which the 
nourishment derived from food is distributed throughout 
the entire system, contains nine-tenths of water. This 
fluid condition is necessary, both to the blood and to tlie 
secretion, in order to enable them to supply the body with 
new material, to repair its daily waste, and also to afford 
an avenue for the discharge of its worn-out particles. Wa- 
ter enters also into the composition of the solid portions of 
the body. The muscles and cartilages contain it to the ex- 
tent of more than one-half their substance, and the bones 
and teeth to about one-tenth part. The best scientific 
authorities fix the quantity of water or fluid required by a 
healthy adult at about five pints a day. 

The quantity of water taken into the system during a 
given time cannot be estimated by that which is drank, 
for no ordinary food is without a large proportion of it; 
and absolutely dry food should have at least four times its 
quantity of Avater used with it. The following table of the 
proportion of water iH'esent in ordinary foods has been 
compiled from tlie deductions of the eminent Englisli au- 
thorities. Smith and Church. 

PEK CENTAGE OF WATER IX 100 POUNDS OF FOOD. 
Lettuce 
Onions 

Beer - - - 
Skim milk 
Carrots 
Cabbages 
New milk 
Apples 
Beets - 



96 pounds. 


Parsnips 


81 


pounds. 


91 " 


Grapes 


80 




90 " 


Potatoes 


76 




90 " 


Fish (fresh) - 


74 




89 " 


Fowl 


73 




89 " 


Lean rueat - 


73 




88 " 


Eggs 


72 




83 " 


Liver - - - 


70 




82 " 


Fat and lean beef - 


.50 





CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 229 

Fish (dried) - - 50 pounds. Flour - - - - 14 pounds. 

Fat and lean mutton - 43 " Rice - - - - 13 " 

Bread - - - - 40 " Indian corn meal - 13 " 

Cheese - - - 34 " Crackers - - - 13 " 

Bacon - - - - 23 '• Butter - - - - 10 " 

Peas and beans (dried) 14 " Pure lard and drippings 1 " 

Thus we see tliat we receive a large pro23ortioD of our 
supply of fluid in combination with our solid food; and 
where we make use of soups and stews we obtain an addi- 
tional quantity. Even vegetables and meats, when cooked 
in water, absorb more or less of its bulk, especially if these 
substances are dried. 

It must be remembered that the above table is only ap- 
proximate. The quantities of water present in different 
articles of food vary with their age and method of preser- 
vation. For instance, freshly- gathered vegetables contain 
the maximum quantity of water, and those which have 
been stored some time in a dry place the minimum. Fresh 
meats which are exjiosed to the action of the air lose a por- 
tion of their moisture by evaporation. 
puri'Ty of water. 

Since water enters so lai'gely into the composition of our 
daily nourishment, it is important that it should be pure, 
in orcler to serve the purposes for which it is designed in 
the wise economy of Nature. 

AVater is usually obtained from springs and rivers, and 
always contains more or less organic impurities, together 
with certain inorganic matters, such as the mineral salts. 
When the quantity of the latter present in a gallon of wa- 
ter does not exceed thirty gi-ains, its use will be innocuous. 
Where water for domestic uses is kept in cisterns or tanks 
lined with lead, or where it passes through leaden pipes, 
it is apt to be impregnated with the salts of lead to an ex- 
tent capable of producing lead-poisoning. For this reason, 
where the water passes through lead pipes, it should be 
run long enougli before using to insure a supply of fresh 



'30 APPENDIX. 



water, which has not lain for any length of time in the 
pipes; and where lead-lined reservoirs are employed to hold 
it, they should be freshly filled at least once a day. 

Soft or rain-water is much more susceptible to the action 
of lead than hard water. 

Another metallic substance which is frequently imparted 
to water in its passage through cisterns and pipes is iron. 
This is not absolutely injurious, but it imparts a disagree- 
able color and taste. 

QUALITY OF WATER FOR DRINKING AND COOKING. 

Drinking water should appear clear and colorless when 
seen in small quantities, and should present a pale-blue or 
bluish-green tint in the mass. It should have no smell 
and its taste should be pleasant and refreshing. This last 
quality in water is largely due to the gases which it con- 
tains when freshly drawn from its natural reservoir, and 
which are present in it in the form of air. These 
gases are nitrogen, oxygen and carbonic acid. A familiar 
illustration of this point may be. made by comparing the 
appearance and taste of a glass of fresh spring water with 
some which has been lono- boiled. The first will be clear 
and sparkling, almost exhilarating; the second dull, .taste- 
less and insipid. This fact should be remembered in the 
making of tea and coffee. If we want them prime, we 
must make them the instant the water boils, before it has 
had an opportunity to lose all its valuable gases by con- 
tinued ebullition. Cool, fresh water is more wholesome 
than that which has been standing in a warm or close room 
or exposed to the rays of the sun. 

Much of the success of cooking depends upon the water 
which is used during the process. Hard water coats the 
surface of meat or vegetables boiled in it witli lime to such 
an extent us to render them difficult of digestion. Very 
soft water, which contains no mineral salts, is not healthy 
either for cooking or drinking, on account of this deficien- 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 231 

cy. Medium soft water helps the solution of the hard sub- 
stance of food during the process of cooking, especially in 
the preparation of soups and stews. It also serves as a 
valuable solvent of animal and vegetable food during the 
process of digestion. Salt added to soft water hardens it 
to a sufficient extent for the effect to be decidedly apparent 
in the cooking of vegetables. This is especially to be ob- 
served with green vegetables, where the addition of salt to 
the water in which they are boiled maintains the firmness 
of their texture to such a degree as to preserve both color 
and flavor. Those which are boiled in unsalted soft water 
are soft, discolored and tasteless. 

Onions boiled in soft water without salt lose nearly all 
their flavor and aroma; peas and beans boil to a pudding in 
a very short time; and even the solid roots, such as turnijDS 
and beets, lose their firmness and flavor to an unpleasant 
degree. It is impossible to restore either taste or consist- 
ency by salting tlieni after they have been cooked in this 
way. 

TEA. 

The physiological action of this pleasant beverage is so 
w^ell known that any extended discussion of it would seem 
superfluous. We shall, therefore, only recall some of the 
chief facts connected with it. We all know that it 
causes cheerfulness, clearness of mind, wakefulness, and 
nervousness, while it increases the action of the skin and 
lungs, and lowers the heart's pulsations. It is certainly a 
welcome accessory to every well-spread board. In fact, it 
is one of those luxuries wliich custom clothes in the gar- 
ments of necessity. 

There, is, however, in connection with tea, one point 
which should not be forgotten. We have already said that 
the body requires immediate nourishment early in the 
morning;- and for that reason tea, which retards the action 
of the natural functions, should be banished from the 



232 APPENDIX, 

breakfast table, and should appear at lunch and after din- 
ner. Certain rules should be followed by habitual tea 
drinkers, if they wish to use their favorite beverage without 
injurious effects. They should use a moderate quantity of 
tea. Always make the infusion with boiling water, and 
employ milk as an adjunct, and sugar, if liked. Especially 
should they remember that high-priced teas are less desir- 
able for general use than the medium qualities, both on ac- 
count of their price, and because, owing to their purity and 
strength, they abound in deleterious properties. A judi- 
cious mixture of several kinds of tea is often advisable. An 
excellent English mixture, which combines cheapness with 
fineness of flavor, is composed of one pound of Congo tea 
with a quarter of a pound each of Assam and Orange Pekoe. 
The usual mixture of black and green tea is four parts of 
black to one of green. 

COFFEE. 

The action of coffee is so similar to that of tea that we 
need not consider it separately; it Avill be sufficient to re- 
mark that the chief points of difference are lessening the 
action of the skin, increasing the action of the heart, and 
when used very strong, aiding digestion to some extent. 

This favorite beverage is so seldom well made tliat we 
advise our readers to remember the following points. The 
best method for making coffee is that which yields a clear, 
fragrant infusion, whose very aroma cheers and exhilarates. 
Intense heat is necessary to the extraction of all the valu- 
able properties of the beriy; but actual boiling dissipates 
the fragrant volatile oil and extracts the tannic acid of the 
coffee. This acid, in combination with the cream or milk 
usually served with coffee, hardens the albumen which 
they contain into an indigestible compound, which is ex- 
cessively irritating to the delicate internal membranes. 
Therefore, in making coffee, we must endeavor to secure 
the requisite strength Vv'ithout risking a corresponding lack 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. Ld3 



of flavor and extraction of tannic acid. We hbve tried 
Tarions coffee-pots, ranging from French percolators down 
to earthen biggins, and we are satisfied that good coffee 
can be made in any pot, cup, or pitcher. 

The right j^roportion of good coffee is one ounce and a half 
of the pure berry, ground very fine, to each quart of water. 
The water must be boilmc/ when it is poured on the coffee, 
Mit must not boil afterward. The vessel in whicli the 
beverage is made must stand near enough to the fire to 
maintain a temperature of about 200° Fahr. for five or ten 
minutes before using. If it is made in a pot containing 
a strainer, it will be clear; if it is made in an ordinary pot 
or pitcher, it should be stirred for three minutes, in order 
to thoroughly saturate the grounds with the boiling water, 
and so cause them to sink. If the coffee is allowed to 
stand for about ten minutes to settle, it can be poured off 
carefully without disturbing the grounds, and will be as 
clear as wine. 

COCOA AND CHOCOLATE. 

Next to coffee these two beverages find favor at the 
breakfast table, while they are much more nutritious. Both 
these articles are made from the kernels of a tropical fruit, 
about the size of a cucumber, the fleshy part of which i& 
sometimes used to produce a vinous liquor; they are pro- 
duced from the seeds of the cocoa palm, and from a kind 
of ground nut. These kernels consist of gum, starch, and 
vegetable oil; and are marketed in four different forms, as 
cocoa shells, whicli are the husks of the kernel; cocoa nibs, 
which consist of the crushed nuts; ground cocoa, which is 
tlie kernels ground fine, and chocolate. 

Chocolate is the finely ground powder from the kernels, 
mixed to a stiff paste with sugar, and sometimes a little 
starch. It is very nutritious; when it is difficult to 
digest, remove from its solution the oily cake which will col- 
lect upon the surface as it cools. It is so nutritious that a 



234 APPENDIX. 



small cake of it, weighing about two ounces, will satisfy 
hunger; for that reason it is a good lunch for travelers. 

Both cocoa and chocolate are very nutritious, and are 
free from the possible injurious influences of tea and coffee. 

NUTRITIVE BEVERAGES. 

There are some conditions of illness in which sufficient 
nutriment can be supplied to the body by means of certain 
nourishing drinks, such as egg-tea, beef-tea, Iceland-Moss 
chocolate, milk- punch, and egg-nogg. These beverages 
should always be administered under the direction of a 
physician in cases of serious illness; and, used judiciously, 
are exceedingly valuable. The excessive use of teas and 
gruels tends to injure weak digestive organs; especially is 
this fact true of gruels; when they are rapidly swallowed they 
are unaffected hy the alkaline action of the saliva, which, 
as we have already said, begins the digestion of the starch 
of which they are largely composed. If their starchy por- 
tion has not been affected by the saliva, they pass through 
the stomach into the small intestine with their elements un- 
changed, and severely tax that portion of the digestive sys- 
tem. 

THE EFFECT OF COOKERY 0^ FOOD. 

The object of cooking is to prepare food so that its nutri- 
tive elements may be changed by the process of digestion 
into healthy blood. The application of heat greatly facili- 
tates this process; heat is applied to food either by placing 
it in close proximity to the fire, as in broiling and roasting; 
by the use of hot air, as in baking; of hot vapor as in steam- 
ing, or of hot water as in boiling and stewing. All cooked 
food is more wholesome if eaten while it is hot than after 
it has been allowed to get cold. The temperature of the 
stom-ach is 102^ Fahr., and when anything is introduced 
into it which lowers that temperature, digestion is suspend- 
ed; and the temperature must be regained before digestion 



CHEMISTRY OF FOOD. 235 

can recommence. This OYcrtaxes the whole system. The 
fact that hot food is a ph^^sical economy should never be 
forgotten. Food should not be used while cold unless the 
system is very much heated, and even then the quantity 
should be limited; for as we have already explained, food 
cannot be digested until its temperature corresponds with 
that of the stomach. 

The best method of cooking animal food is that which 
retains all its juices, and disintegrates its fibers so that it 
can be easily digested; the juices contain the flavors and 
the valuable mineral salts which make meat palatable and 
nutritious; in order to preserve them it is necessary to 
coagulate the albumen of the cut surfaces by excessive heat, 
so as to prevent their escape; for that reason, in broiling or 
roasting, the meat should be exposed to the intense heat of 
the open fire until the surface is browned, and then so far 
withdrawn that there is no danger of burning, and allowed 
to finish cooking slowly. 

In boiling and stewing it should be plunged into boiling 
water, boiled for five minutes, and then the utensil con- 
tainiup- it should be removed to the side of the fire so that 
the meat can simmer until it is done; by this process 
the flavoring and salts of the meat are preserved in it. 
When it is desirable to extract them for soup, or beef tea, 
the object is best served by soaking the meat for a short 
time in cold water, putting it over the fire in the same 
water, and bringing it slowly to the boiling point,* which 
can be maintained until the soup is done; the importance 
and economy of soup as food is not yet fully understood in 
this country. The trimmings of meat, or bones, or even 
vegetables, will, if properly prepared, make a wholesome 
and hearty meal, that will go farther towards maintaining 
health and strength than any other article of diet of equal pe- 
cuniary value.' When vegetables alone are used for food it 
should be rem.embered that they take more time for com- 



233 APPENDIX. 

plete digestion, and must be supplied in greater quantities 
than animal food. 

In making wheat and other cereals into bread, three dif- 
ferent methods are employed; leavening, or raising by 
means of fermentation, as in ordinary home-made or bakers' 
bread; the rapid introduction of carbonic acid gas by means 
of baking-powders; and the mechanical introduction of air, 
as in aerated bread; the latter is undoubtedly the best means 
if it can be pro2:)erly accomplished, as none of the nutritive 
elements of the flour are lost by it. 

Thus we see that good cookery economizes food by pre- 
paring its elements for direct absorption into the system; 
in many instances it increases the bulk and nutritive values 
of various aliments, as, for instance, in soups and stews. It 
gives that variety of flavor and diversity of form upon 
which the appetite so largely depends; in a word, it in- 
sures the fulfilment of the requirements of health, while it 
gratifies our gastronomic tastes. 




DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS. 237 



CHAPTER III. 

DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS.* 

The correspondence of tliiis office with boiirding schools 
and orphan asylums reveals not only the necessity of in- 
struction in cookery, but the need of sup})lying certain 
practical information at once that can be furnished at pre- 
sent in no form so well as by the specific suggestions of 
dietaries, whicli recognize the condition with respect to 
age, etc., of those for whom they are designed. The fol- 
lowing have therefore been supplied on request by Miss 
Juliet Corson, Superintendent of the New York School of 
Cookery, 

To plan dietaries which can be applied to special uses, 
it is necessary to study several leading points: first, the 
age, sex, and occupation of those for wliom the dietaries 
are intended; second, the climate in which they live, 
whether warm or cold, and the location of their dwelling, 
whether upon a mountain or plain; third, a due variation 
of aliment, and tliat containing sufficient water and waste 
matter to supply the demands of the system without over- 
taxing the digestive organs; fourth, the selection of foods 
locally well known, and their provision in quantities ade- 
quate to the requirements of the consumers. 

PHYSICAL TRANSITION- DURING CHILDHOOD. 

At the period of cliildhood the transformation of the 
nutritive elements of food, into thnt healthv and well nour- 
ished blood which is the source of physical and mental 



*Repritited from Circular No. 4 1879, nf the Bureau of E Incation. De- 
partment of the Iiiterir.r. AVasliineton. D. C. Tliis Dietary was prpnared 
at the request of the Hon. John Eaton, TJ. S. Commissioner of E Inca- 
tion, and its publication was ordered by the Hon. Carl Schurz, Secretai-y 
of the Interior. 



238 APPENDIX. 

strength goes on with greater rapidity and persistence 
than at any other time of life; hence the importance to 
children more than to grown persons of an abundant sup- 
ply of wholesome food. The underfeeding of a child is 
equivalent to tlie deliberate destruction of his mental fac- 
ulties as well as tbe ruin of his health. It is a sure means 
of ffivinsr him a weak mind and a defective constitution, 
of making him an inefficient member of society, and of 
sending him to an untimely grave. Facts warrant us in 
saying that the parent, guardian, or instructor who per- 
mits a child to sutfer from innutrition Is as much his de- 
stroyer as if life were ended at one blow. Bad effects can 
undoubtedly be produced by over-feeding, but they can 
usually be easily remedied, while the effect of under-feed- 
insf cannot always be counteracted. 

ADOLESCENCE. 

Especially from the age of twelve years up to eighteen, 
the greatest and most unremitting care is demanded, if 
children are to grow up into healthy and well developed 
men and women. This is a time Ox rapid growth and 
marked physical changes; and these conditions are at- 
tended with the exhausrion of all that reserve force 
which mav have been accumulated during a well nour- 
ished childhood. 

It often is the case at this period of life that the appe- 
tite fails perceptibly or becomes abnormal; the task of 
meeting such contingencies is imperatively imposed upon 
those having the chnr.'re of the youth of either sex. Exer- 
cise in the open air and freedom from vexatious or severe 
stud V should be secured; the .notion of the skin and bowels 
should be carefullv refrulntod. and the supply of nutri- 
tious food, especially of flesh-forming materials, should 
be ample. 

The ordinary occupation at this time of life is study, 



DIETAUY FOR SCHOOLS. 239 

and even the lighter studies are more arduous than the 
greatest amount of open air exercise or any manual labor 
which is not excessive; so that even under the most fa- 
vorahle physical conditions the system must be well nour- 
ished. 

EFFECT OF CLIMATE AXD SEASON. 

In cold climates and during the winter season an abun- 
dance of heat food is required. A well housed and warmly 
clad person requires less food than one thinly clad and 
exposed to the severity of the elements. The inhabitants 
of hilly regions consume more heat food than those who 
live in the lowlands, and a greater quantity of all kinds of 
food. The system demands the most generous supply of 
food when the season is coldest, as in midwinter. 

NECESSITY FOR WATER AND WASTE IN FOOD. 

The important part which water holds in the nourish- 
ment of the body can readily be comprehended if we re- 
member that it constitutes at least two-thirds of the entire 
substance of the body, and nine-tenths of the volume of 
t]]e blood. Irs office is to assist in i\\e digestion and dis- 
tribution of food elements, and to forward tlie elimination 
of the worn out particles of the body. All flesh foods con- 
tain more or less of it, and all concentrated and dried 
foods should be cooked with a liberal addition of water. 
Soups and stews, Avhich are exceedingly wholesome and 
nutritious, usually contain about three-fourths of water. 

In addition to water, a healthy type of food must afford 
considerable waste matter or innutritions particles. If 
food is too highly concentrated or composed entirely of 
nutritive elements, it cannot keep uj) the natural and 
healthy action of tlie digestive organs; a certain propor- 
tion of waste is indispensable. 

The woody fibre of vegetables and the bran or husks of 



240 APPENDIX. 



cereals are waste matter; tliej are not consumed in the 
system, but serve to render food less compact, thus facili- 
tating its mingling with the gastric juices; and the stim- 
ulus caused by their presence in the bowels promotes the 
excretion of the worn out particles of the body. 

Foods containing a wholesome quantity of waste matter 
are called relaxing foods, and include bread made from 
unbolted flour, rye, and corn meal, and fresh fruits and 
vegetables. Foods composed almost entirely of nutritious 
elements, such as eggs, milk, meat, and fine white flour, 
are constipating in tiieir effect upon tlie system. 

CO:S"DIMEXTS A^D STIMULANTS. 

The vahie of all condiments, except salt, wlien used 
with food consists in their action in promoting the appe- 
tite and stimulating the digestive organs; as both appetite 
and digestion are usually normal in youth, condiments 
are not required and should be used sparingly. Salt, how- 
ever, is indisponsablu to health, and should be supplied in 
a sufficient quantity to meet the demands of an unpervert- 
ed appetite; a vigorous youth requires, carefully blended 
with his food, about half an ounce of salt per diem. 

Alcoholic stimulants are absolutely injurious to the 
expanding system, because their tendency is to retard that 
change of tissue so essential to the process of growth. 
Where physical debility is marked, stimulants may be 
valuable, but they should be used only by direction of 
a physician. 

ACTION OF TEA AND COFFEE. 

The action of tea and coffee upon the system is a theme 
prolific of discussion, but the fact is conceded by the best 
authorities that both those agreeable boveraci^es, when used 
in moderation, exercise a pleasantly stimulating and 
'^staying" inflnence ; that is. they so far retard the 
process of destructive assimilation as to render the sen- 



DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS. 241 



satiou of hunger less acute, and to reserve a certain 
amount of strength even during liard labor. In youth, 
the change of the nutriment contained in food into 
■well nourished blood should never be retarded, and suf- 
ficient strength should be supplied by food to meet all the 
demands of the bodv; therefore the action of tea and 
coffee is undesirable. 

FOOD VALUE OF COCOA AJS'D CHOCOLATE. 

Cocoa and chocolate have a somewhat similar stimulat- 
ing effect, but as they also possess considerable fat and 
nutriment, their moderate use in youth is less objection- 
able than the use of tea and coffee. 

MILK AS A NTTRIE^q^T. 

But the proper beverages for youth are moderately cool 
"water, of the temperature of about 45^ F., and plenty of 
sweet, pure milk. 

Actual scientific experiments, made in England by Dr. 
Ffci-guson, an inspector of factories, establish the fact that 
between the ages of thirteen and sixteen children grow 
nearly four times as fast, and become correspondingly 
strong, on milk for breakfast and supper, as when ordi- 
narily strong tea and coffee are used. With plenty of 
milk, about one quart per diem, and bread enough to 
satisfy the appetite, a child Avould be well nourished ; 
but after reaching the age of seven years, the physical 
requirements of children are best met by a plain mixed 
diet. 

PROPER TEMPERATURE OF FOOD. 

The temporaiure at which food is eaten should approach 
that of the stomach, about 100^ F., so that the process of 
diofcstion mav not be impeded. Food cannot be di£:ested 
until it is heated to this temperature; and, unless the 
necessary heat is artificially supplied before its introduc- 
tion into tlie stomach, that orsfan must bo taxed to afford 



242 APPENDIX. 



it. This fact accounts for the unwholesome effect of 
ice cold water upon the process of digestion. 'J'oo 
great a degree of heat in food is also injurious to the di- 
gestive organs, by causing irritation and weakness, besides 



tending to destroy the teeth. 



VARIETY OF FOOD NECESSARY TO HEALTH. 

Monotony of diet is to be avoided because it restricts 
the supply of food elements essential to good health; but 
unfounded fancies about new or peculiar articles of food 
should be corrected firmly and kindly, unless some physi- 
cal idiosyncrasy justifies their indulgence. Because the 
equal and adequate nourishment of the body influences 
the formation of both mind and character, the utmost care 
should be given to the selection of the diet; and where vi- 
tality is impaired even in a slight degree, means must be 
employed to increase tlie desire for food. 

A wholesome .and abundant variety of food can be ob- 
tained in almost any civilized locality: broiled and roasted 
meats, poultry and fish cooked so as to preserve all their 
natural juices, rice, macaroni, eggs plain boiled and rather 
soft, milk, and sugar, are all common and healthy foods; 
all seed-bearing fruits are excellent, especially apj^les, 
pears, grapes, and berries; such succulent vegetables as 
potatoes, spinach, green corn, onions, celery, lettuce, car- 
rots, peas, and beans are wholesome, plentiful, and cheap. 
Sngo, "arrowroot, and tapioca, unless combined with plenty 
of milk and eggs, are of but little use, except during illness, 
when some bland, simple food is required to satisfy the 
slight alimentary needs of the system. 

EFFECTS OF INDIGESTIBLE FOODS. 

Such indigestible articles as fat meat, rich pastry, hot 
bread, unripe fruit and vegetables, tea, coffee, spices. 



DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS. 34.% 



condiments, pickles, and stimulants, should be avoided. 
Children fed upon such articles ofteia appear plump, but 
their muscles will be found to be soft, their bones small 
and weak, and their sjstems predisposed to inflammatory 
affections. 

To counteract the deleterious effects of such di^t, plenty 
of lean meat, fish, oa,tmeal, graham bread, eggs, milk, ap 
pies, onions, celery, asparagus, cauliflower, spinacii, and 
salad vegetables should be given. The breakfast should be 
given soon after rising, the dinner at noon, and the supper 
at least two hours before retirino-, 

PHYSICAL INDICATIOlfS OF COMPLETE NUTRITION. 

If the supply of food auswers all physical requirements, 
both body and mind will be well developed in proportion 
to the age; the eyes will be bright, the cheeks rosy, the 
form plump, and the spirits exuberant. Any degree of 
health short of this shows that the amount of nutriment 
assimilated is insufficient to satisfy the daily demaiids of 
the system, and permit that accumulation of force requir- 
ed for the vigorous development of the ^'owing body. 

When educational exigencies seem to interfere with this 
reserve of vital force, tiiey should be alternated with a suf- 
ficient degree of open air exercise to insure it, and the 
proportion of milk, eggs, meat, and bread in the daily fare 
should be increased; especially milk should be supplied in 
a quantity satisfactory to the appetite. 

STUDYING BEFORE BREAKFAST. 

Studying before breakfast is not conducive to general 
good health, but a moderate degree^ of open air exercise 
will promotx3 an appetite. Tf part of an hour must be filled 
with some studious occupation, it should be judiciously 
combined with relaxation; a short walk in some rural 
locality, or a visit to the green-house, would afford 
occasion for botanical instruction combined with healthy 



244 APPENDIX. 

exercise; and in rainy weatiier, music, drawing, and light 
gymnastics offer a choice of suitable occupations for both 
teacher and pupils. 

NECESSITY FOR EARLY BREAKFASTS. 

The experiments of Dr. Edward Smith and other emi- 
nent investigators prove that the greatest vital action 
takes place in the early part af t.ie day, that the digestion 
and assimilation of food are most easily and naturally 
performed at that time, and consequently that the most 
nutritious food should then be supplied in abundance. 

The danger of overeating at breakfast is provided 
against by the fact that it is usually composed of simple 
viands plainly cooked. A healthy child never finds that 
a hearty breakfast causes indigestion; the activity of the 
system makes ample provision for the nse of all the nour- 
ishment it can obtain; it is only towards evening that 
the force of the vital functions is diminished and that 
the system becomes unable to assimilate an excess of nu- 
triment. 

If the rising hour is about six in the morning, the 
breakfast should not be later than seven; if the meal is 
likely to be delayed beyond that honr, a cup of milk and 
a slice of bread slmuld be taken after dressing. The use 
of this slight refreshment does not warrant the deferring 
of the breakfast proper until ten or eleven o'clock. 

The breakfast should consist of such plain fare as bread, 
butter, esro's, or fish, all simply prepared, and plenty of 
milk. The healthy appetite should be completely satis- 
fied at this meal, for, as we have nl ready said, the vital 
actions are keenest fi*om rising until noon, and the long 
fast of the night has depleted the system of the nutriment 
derived from food during the previous day. 

MIDDAY DITTISTERS BEST FOR HEALTH. 

Equally important with a hearty breakftist is a full and 



DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS. 345 



wholesome early dinner of freshly cooked warm meat and 
vegetables, plenty of bread, and some plain pudding or 
fruit; these should be well mastic^ited, and aicommmied 
by about half a pint of fresh, cool wat^r as a drink. The 
meal may be varied with nutritious soups, stews of fresh 
meat, and red blooded fish. 

LIGHT AXI) EARLY SUPPERS. 

The supper should be composed of light and di- 
gestible aliments, in quantity sufficient to satisfy the 
appetite, aud should be eaten at least two hours before 
retiring. 

Abundantly nutritious guppers for boys may be made 
up of breuAl, milk porridge, a little tapioca or sago pud- 
ding made wiili milk and eggs, or a custard, together 
witli aghiss of milk or of moderately cool water. Bread 
with stewed fruits, as apples or prunes, serve to vary 
the meal pleasantly, without overtaxing th^ digestive 
powers. 

For girls, a little warm milk or a cup of weak cocoa 
may be added with advantage. 

Suppers for both boys and girls should be composed of 
the most digestible foods, because it is imperative to health 
that the hour for retiring should be early, and digestion 
should be well advanced before that time. When any un- 
usual exertion or excessive fatigue seems to demand a 
heavier repast, sufficient time for digestion should be al- 
lowed before retiring; if fish is used,' sleep should be de- 
ferred at least two hours; meat and eggs digest in about 
three hours, and consequently the bedtime should be grad- 
uated accordingly. 

NECESSARY DAILY QUANTITY OF POOD. 

Boys from fifteen to twenty years of age require n earl v 
as mucli food as men; that is, about six pounds per 
diem. ^ 



246 



APPENDIX. 



Girls of the same iigQ require uboiic four pounds. Nu- 
tritious soups lire especially useful wheu there is any indi- 
cation of malnutrition in either sex» 

For both boys and girls the character of the food should 
be largely determined by the appetite^ unless it has be- 
come very much perverted. Girls are far more apt to be 
*^ notional" about their food than boys, and should be 
much more closely watched. 

DAILY DIETARIES. 

The facts already cited warrant us in outlining the fol- 
lowing dietaries for the youth of both sexes; of course the 
quantities must be varied to suit individual cases, but the 
supply should always be ample and appropriate : 





Dietary f 


or Children from 6 to 10 Years of Age. 


Bread. 


Milk. 

One pint, 
or .soup 
half pint. 


Butter. 


Meat. 

5 oz., or fisi 
8oz. 


Vegetables. 
8 oz. 


Pudding. 
6 oz. 


Fruit. 
4 oz. 


Unlimited. 


2 oz. 



Dietary for Children from 10 


to 14 Years of Age 


• . 


Bread. 
1 lb. 


Milk. 

1 1-2 pints, 
or soup 1 
pint. 


Butter. 
3 oz. 


Meat. 

8oz., orfisli 
12 oz., or 
eggs 3 oz. 


Vegetables. 


Pudding. 


Fruit. 


12 oz. 


8oz. 


8oz. 





Dietary f 


or Youths 


from 14. to 30 Years of Age. 




Bread. 


Milk. 

1 1-2 pints, 
or soup 1 
pint. 


Butter. 
i oz. 


Meat. 

12 oz., or 
fls-h 16 oz., 
or eggs 5 

nz. 


Vegetables. 


Pudding. 
8oz. 


Fruit. 


1 1-2 lbs. 


1 lb. 


8 oz. 



TABLE OF COMPARATIVE FOOD VALUES. 

The following table, compiled from South Kensington 
estimates, gives some idea of the relative nutritive value of 



DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS. 



247 



those articles of food in general use throughout the United 
States; a little study will afford hints for tiie variation of 
everyday fare. The figures represent a fair average, but 
of course are not arbitrary, because the same kind and 
quantity of food presents different nutritive qualities at 
different seasons of the year: for instance, juicy fruits are 
best at the point of ripening; succulent vegetables just be- 
fore flowering; roots and tubers at their early maturity; 
and meats and poultry in the winter, when they are gener- 
ally full grown, and when the temperacurc permits their 
preservation until the hardness of fibre which exists in 
very recently killed meats has passed away. 

The following table shows what proportions are yielded 
of one pound of ai'ticles named: 





Heat food. 


Flesh food. 


Mineral salts. 


Water. 

3 5-6 oz. 
9 3-4 oz. 
5 1-2 oz. 
13 5-6 oz. 

11 3-4 oz. 

12 1-4 oz. 

13 oz. 

12 1-2 oz. 

1 1-4 oz. 

2 oz. 


Broad 


10 oz. 

3 oz. 

4 1-2 oz. 
1 1-2 oz 
1 1-2 oz. 

1 oz. 

2 oz. 

2 oz 
12 oz. 

14 oz. 


2 oz. 

3 oz. 
5 1-2 oz. 

1-2 oz. 
2 1-2 oz. 
2 1-2 oz. 
1 1-2 oz. 

1 oz. 

2 1-2 oz. 

A trace. 


1-6 oz. 
1-4 oz. 
1-2 oz. 
1-6 oz. 
1-4 oz. 
1-4 oz. 
1-2 oz. 

1-2 oz. 

1-4 0Z. 

A trace. 


Meat 


Cheese 


Milk 

Eurers 


y7^ :::.::::.:: 


Poultry 

Fresh fruit ) 

Juicy vegetables ( 

Wheat flour, rice, oatmeal. .. 1 
Macaroni, dried peas & beans ) 
\niinal /ats ] 


Butter i 

Oil \ 


Sugar 

Arrowroot J 



ORDINARY CLASSIFICATION?" OF FOODS. 

Foods are classified, in accordance with the prepon- 
derance of certain elements, as carbonaceous, or heat food; 
nitrogenous, or flesh food; and phosphatic, or brain and 
nerve food. 

Heat foods include white flour, sugar, honey, molasses, 
butter, milk, corn starch, arrowroot, potatoes, beets, beans, 
turnips, carrots, parsnips, grapes, and all sweet fruits, and 
liver and fat meat. 

Flesh food abounds in lean meat, oatmeal, whole wheat, 



248 APPENDIX. 

eggs, cheese, onions, cabbage, asparagus, salads, celery, 
cauliflower, and spinach. 

Brain and nerve food is found in fresh fruit, unbolted 
flour, succulent vegetables, game, poultry, oysters, and in 
certain chemical compounds usually employed by physi- 
cians in special dietaries. 

All nutritious and easily digested foods are included in 
these classes of nutrients. 

LOCAL DISTRIBUTION^ OF FOODS. 

Inland, throughout the United States, the food in gen- 
eral use is carbonaceous and nitrogenous, with the former 
somewhat in excess. Upon the seaboard and in the vicin- 
ity of lakes and rivers, the abundance and variety of fish 
give the diet a phosphatic character. Local dietaries in the 
Eastern States include too great a proportion of hot break- 
fast cakes, pickles, and pies, while the supply of fruit and 
vegetables is limited. Similar conditions are marked in 
the Middle States, but the abundance of fruit and vegeta- 
bles and of excellent poultry modifies the diet considera- 
bly. In tlie West, except in some of the larger cities, the 
same kind of food is used as in the East, with the addition 
of pounded and fried meats; fruit and vegetables are 
abundant and early, but not sufficiently appreciated; the 
chief meats are beef and pork. In the South the supply 
of fruit and vegetables is somewhat limited, although sev- 
eral fine varieties of the latter are indigenous, but poultry 
is abundant and fine fish is plentiful near the seacoast. 
Two totally different kinds of cookery dispute for ascend- 
ancy: one derived from the genuine culinary ability of the 
early French and English inhabitants, and the other the 
abominable outgrowth of the dominion of grease. Bacon 
is the chief cured meat, and corn is abundantly used, both 
in a fresh and dried state. 



DIETARY FOR SCHOOLS. 249 



GEI^ERAL SUITABILITY OF LOCAL ALIMEJs-TARY PEO- 

DUCTIOisS. 

In accordance with that impartial justice which demon- 
strates the eternal fitness of nature's laws, every locality 
seems to favor the production of such foods as are 
essential to the health of its inhabitants; this local 
abundance has led to the use of such alimentary com- 
binations as serve to guide even the most inexperienced 
caterer. 

Witliout understanding the rationale of the proceeding, 
the farm laborer relishes a bit of fat pork or bacon with 
his meal of vegetables or bread; the sailor, returning from 
a long voyage, during which his diet has been composed 
chiefly of salt or concentrated foods, instinctively feasts 
upon vegetables; tlie native of the tropics craves those 
juicy fruits with which bountiful nature provides him; and 
the tribes dwelling near eitJier pole eagerly devour fats in 
their simj)lest form. 

Despite these ruling facts, variations in the character of 
local dietaries are occasionally demanded by individual 
tastes and physical conditions; and they can readily be ef- 
fected by any intelligent person, after a little study of the 
cliemical composition and nutritive value of different ali- 
mentary substances. 



I N DEX. 

Index of Dishes. 
Soups. 



Beef and Vegetable 29 

" Tea 60 

Brunoise ^8 

Caramel for Coloring 67 

Chicken and Rice II'O 

'• Broth 137 

Clear 106 

Consomme 106 

" d la Royale 144 

" of Game 191 

Cream of Beets 165 

Crecy '^^ 

Creole • • • ^4 

Game Consomme d la Desclig- 

nac 191 

Gravy 79 

Julienne 198 

MiCar^me IBO 

Mc^ck Terrapin 175 

•' Turtle 159 

" Stock 153 

Mulligatawiiv 72 

Mutton Brotii 97 & 137 

Oxtail 67 



Pea Soup with CroHtons 28 

" Ham TIG 

Potage d la Hollandaise 198 

" dla Reine 170 

Pot-au-Feu 91 

Pw^e of Carrots 202 

'' of Celery 185 

" of Fish 100 

" of Salmon 148 

Scotch Broth witli Mear, 107 

" '• witliour, Meat 29 

Soup, Coloring of 105 

" Flavoring of 105 

" Food value of 235 

"• Thickening of 105 

j Soup-Materials, how to choose.. 26 
I '• " *' prepare. 30 

I " Stock : 104 

'Spinach 109 

I Tripe 76 

' Turtle Bean 82 

1 Vegetable Porritlge 27 

Vermicelli 108 

Wrexham 86 



Fish and Shell-fish. 



Bass, baked 112 

" filet, d la Royale 149 

Bouillabaisse 176 

Carp, d la Chambord 191 

" baked, with Span is u Sauce. 144 

Clam Fritters b9 

Cod, baked, with Ci-eam Sauce.. 101 
" hoUed, Ho.'landaise " ..111 

" crimped, d la ('olbert 1(50 

Crabs, devilled 92 

Eels en Matelotte 186 

Fish, Chowder 83 

" Croquettes 86 

" food value of 224 

" how to choose 31 

" persillade of 74 

" pie. 98 

Fishbones, grilled 34 

Flounders d la Hollandaise 203 

" filets, broiled 33 

" " fried 32 

" " with Spanish 

Sauce 71 



Haddock, boilel, with Parsley 

Sauce 31 

Halibut j^/efs d la Mar^chale. . .181 

" Neck d la Creole 155 

" fried 77 

Herrings, f resli, baked 68 

Lobsters, boiled 31 

Oysters d la poulette 166 

broiled 167 

fried 166 

Oyster Omelette 132 

Patties 193 

Sauce 125 

Pike, boiled, with Egg Sauce... 80 
Ray, '• " Sauce Pi- 

quante 95 

Salmon Croquettes 156 

Shad, broiled 113 

Shell fish 31 

Sole, filet, witli Caper Butter ..112 
Sturgeon, Scallops, with fine 

herbs 199 

Trout, broiled 171 



INDEX. 



25X 



Vegetables. 



PAGE. 

Artichokes, Jerusalem 162 

'* Globe, with Bui.ter 

Sauce ..162 

Asparao:us Peas. 188 

Beans, French or String beans. .204 
" Red Haricot, Borde 

laise stvle 167 

" White Haricot, Borde- 

laise sty le 43 

** Red Ki(iney, stewed 45 

Brussels SpruiJts 200 

Cauliflou er on gratin 146 

Celery, d la Cardincde 151 

" ' d la Villeroi 172 

Green Pe;is, boiled 128 

HotSiaw 50 

Kale, with Butter S;i.ue 182 

Kolcannon 77 

Leijunies, food value of 43 

Lentils, boiled 4i 



Potatoes, boiled 46 

broiled . , 155 

' ' Duchesse 171 

" effect of cooking- on 226 

" food value of 225 

*' German 48 

* • how to choose 45 

*' •* keep 46 

" Jidienne 149 

" Kentucky 128 

" Lyonnaise 47 

*' Farisienne 161 

Saratoga 166 

" saiUc a la Bariyoiile.. .203 

*' stuffed 128 

*• waste of in cookinp: 226 

*' with Sauce Piquante. . .199 

Spinach, jniree of 150 

Turnips, baked 50 

" stewed 129 



fried 45 j Vegetables, effect of water on . .231 



Ovster Plant saute 156 

Parsley, fried 156 

Parsnip Fritters 51 

Peas, dried, and Bacon 43 

" green, boiled 128 

Potato Croquettes 127 

" d la creme 182 

•' dla maitre d'hotel 186 

" dla Royale 145 

" d la Pi-oveugale 192 

" au gratin , 176 

bakeii 140 



food value of 223 

garnish of 122 

how to boil green.. 50 

*' choose 49 

'* keep 49 

jardiniere of 157 

leguminous, food 

value of 43 

tnacedoine of 2-04 

percentage of wa- 
ter in 229 



Salads and Sauces. 



SALADS. 

Anchovy 164 

Cardinale 151 

Chicken 173 

French 183 

Italian 205 

Lobster 189 

Potaro 48 

JSalade d la Macedoine 168 

" " Romaine 147 

'• '• Biisse 157 

" Suede 178 

Sha.lroe 196 

Sl.nmp 201 

Watercress 123 

Cardinal Salad Dressing 152 

French " " ..124 & 183 

Mayonnaise Salad Dressing 152 

Romaine '' " ....147 
Tarragon Vinegar 15 



SAUCES FOR MEAT, FISH, AND 
VEGETABLES. 

A lletnande 181 

Bechamel 41 & 129 

Butter 162 & 182 

Caper Butter 112 

Champagne 151 

Creau) 101 

E?g 80 

Hollandaisc Ill 

Madeira 122 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter 33 & 113 

Mint 168 

Ovster 125 

Parsley 32 

Piquante 95 

Pculette 163 

Spanish 71 

Tartar 162 

Tomato 74 

White 74 



252 



INDEX. 



Meats. 



Animal entrails as food 55 

" " f«od value of.. 223 

Bacon and Cabbage 54 

Beef, a la Mode: 118 

'• " " de Victoria 53 

" and Vegetables 93 

" braised, d la Printan- 

iere I'^'S 

" filet, d la Macedoine 204 

" ragoHi oi 116 

" roast 146 

Beefsteak, broiled llj 

" juice on toast 138 

Brains, fried 'J^ 

Bubble and Squeak 78 

Calf's Head, d la poulette 163 

" Liver, d Za Bordelaise . . All 
" Tongue and Brains, vvitli 

Tartar Sauce 161 

Forcemeat, for roasts 120 

" Sage and Onion 121 

Fricadels 99 

Ham, roast, uith Cliampagne. .151 

" " " Madeira 121 

Haslet, ragoUt of 55 

Heart, stuffed and bahed 57 

Kidne3^s, broiled 57 

Kromeskies 98 

Lamb, bai'on of, witli Mint 

Snuoe 167 



Lamb, breast of, d la Marechale.lTZ 
" " with Bechatnel 

Sauce 145 

" Canton of 120 & 157 

" Shoulder of, d la Fi- 
nancier e 196 

Liver Rolls, 68 

Meat, boiling and stewing of . , .235 
" combination dishes of 

52, 222, &224 

'' food value of 222 

"■ how to broil 117 

" " lard 150 

" " roast 146 

" relative price and flavor 

of 52 

Mutton Chops, broiled 140 

" " saute, 116 

" Cutlets, dia Milayiaise .20^ 

" rechauffe 89 

Pork and Beans 54 

" curry of 81 

Potato pot 53 

Sausages, Creole 87 

Spare-ribs and Peas 71 

Tripe, curried 101 

" stewed 56 

Veal, Blanquette of 114 

" breast of, stuffed 119 

" Fricandeau of 150 



Birds, boned 125 

broiled 126 

Boned Cldoken 187 

Cantons de Rouen 171 

Capons, braised with Tongue. . .188 

Chicken Curry 115 

" Fricassee 126 

'* Galantine of . .. .187 & 192 
" Jellv 60 



Poultry. 

Chicken Pie 84 

' ' Saute d la Maren go... 199 

Duck, curry d Vlndienne 182 

'• roast 123 

" salmi of 96 

" wild, roast 124 

Fowl, boiled, with Oyster Sauce. 124 

Pigeons, roast 200 



Eggs. 



Eggs, baked 133 

'• boiled 35 

" food value of 224 

" fiied 36 

" how to choose 34 

*' " keep 35 

" new laid 34 

*' poached 35 

" " for consomm^. . .101 

" scrambled 131 

Egg-balls for soup — 175 



Onielette 36 

with fine herbs 132 

" ham 132 

*' orange 81 

" oysters 132 

" parsley 37 

" preserves 133 

sweet 37 

Souffice 164 

" with chocolate. 165 



INDEX. 



253 



Breads. 



Bread, baker's 37 

" home-made 37 

" how to prove and bake.. 42 

" " set 38 

" methods of making 236 



Biscuit 39 

Breakfast Twist 40 

Milk Rolls 39 

Yeast 38 



Farinaceous Dishes. 



Frying batter 51 

Macaroni, d la Milanaise 131 

*' dla Napolitaine 177 

d Vltalienne 130 

baked 43 

" farmer's St vie 41 

" how to boil 40 



Macaroni, how to choose 40 

'[ with Bechamel Sauce 41 
'* " Parmesan cheese. 130 

Oatmeal Porridge 138 

Rice, d la Milanaise 150 

" and Apples 141 

" Croquettes 174 



Dessert. 



CAKES. 

Cream 184 

Chocolate Eclairs 184 

•• Icing 185 

" Souffler 105 

Fruit 13:j 

Gold 61 

Pound !34 

Silver 65 

Sponge 135 



PASTRY AND PIES. 

Apple 136 

" Tarts 63 

Cranbeiry 135 1 

Cream Meringue 136 j 

Pastry for Fruit Pies 63 i 

" Meat and Game Pies. 84 I 

' ' Cases for Patties 195 I 

" '* " Foiart vents.. 195 1 
Puff Paste 193 



FRITTERS AND PANCAKES. 

Apple 78 

Cream 169 

Fiench Pancakes 93 & 179 



PUDDINGS AND CUSTARDS. 

Apples and Rice 141 

" baked 140 

Apple Charlotte 99 

" Croutes 87 



Apple Custard 142 

Blanc-Mange 139 

Caramel Custards 72 

Crime Reverse 152 

Lemon Dumplings 75 

Pudding, food value of 62 

•* Baroness 96 

•' Cabinet 90 «& 158 

*' Cassel 69 

" Corn Starch 85 

' • Cream Rice 63 

Cumberland 190 

" Diplomatique 201 

Sago 102 

Swi.ss 62 

'♦ TapiDca 141 



CANDIED FRUIT AND NUTS. 

Candy, to 205 

Fruit, to candy or Glag^ 205 

" Macedoine of 197 

Gdfeau de Princesse Louise. . . .206 
Nuts, to candy or Gla^e 205 



SWEET SAUCES. 

Cream 68 

Hard 69 

Jelly.... 90 

Leinon 76 

Rum 190 

Vanilla Creum 174 



254 



INDEX. 



Dishes for Invalids. 



Beef Tea 60 

Beefsteak Juice lob 

Cbicken Broth 137 

" Jelly 60 

Iceland Moss Blanc- Mange 139 ; 

Mutton Broth 137 

Oatmeal Porridge 138 | 



Panada 6! 

Toast £8 

Water for drinking 230 

'* Apple 61 

*' Barley 61 

*' Toast 59 



Beverages. 



Apple Water 61 

Barley " 61 

Beverages, Nutiitive 234 

Chocolate 139 & 233 

" nutritive value of 233 

*' physiological action of .232 

Cocoa 233 

" Nibs 233 

" nutritive value of 221 

" physiological action of ...232 

*' Shells 233 

Coffee, how to make 232 

" nutritive value of 221 



" physiological action of. .232 

' ' water for making 230 

Tea 59 & 231 

'* English mixture of 2S2 

" nutritive value of 221 

•' physiological action of 231 

" proper time to drink 231 

' ' water for making 23U 

Water, for Drinking 230 

" physiological action of .227 
" proportion of in the 

bodv 228 



INDEX. 



255 



General Index. 



Absorption, lacteal 218 «fe 219 

'* ofnutrimenc 

213, 217 & 218 

osmotic 217 & 218 

Acid, lactic 216 

•' phosphoric 209 

Acids, fatty 209 

" organic 209 

Albumeji 209 

" present in food 210 

Albuiiienoid substances.. 217 & 218 
Alimentary action of condi- 
ments 226 

Anthracite coal 19 

Appetite, indications of 210 

" use of 213 

Asafoetida as a condiment 227 

AssiniiJation of nutriment 218 

Bay-leaves 15 

Beverages, nutritive 234 

Body, human, composition of.. .209 
" " physical ele- 
ments of 209 

*• *' proportion of 

water in 228 

Bone, food value of 223 

" percentage in carcass 222 

Boning, Birds and poultry 

125, 171 & 187 

«' calf's iiead 153 

•< ggj^ .... 32 

" meat .'.*.".Vl20V 145,' 173,' 196 
Breakfast, early and nutritious. 211 

Carbonaceous elements in bone. 223 
" foods. .210, 216 & 217 

Casein 209 

'* present in food 210 

Celery, dried 15 

salt 16 

Charcoal 19 

Children, cooker3' and diet for. 

62, 139 & 237 

" instruction for 26 

Cheese, food value of 224 

Chemistry of food 220 

Chocolate, physiological notion 

of ■ 232 

Cholesrrin 209 

Chondrin 209 

Chyle .'217 & 218 

Chyme 217 

Cleaning brast; 17 



Cleaning brushes 16 

" copper ware 22 

" dish cloths 17 

*' drains 25 

" enamelled ware 24 

'• floors 16 

" floor cloths 17 

'* hearthstone 17 

'* iron ware 23 

" japanned ware 24 

" jelly bags 2i 

" kitchen 16 & 25 

" paint 16 

*' plated ware 24 

' ' sieves 24 

" sinks 25 

" steel fittings of stoves 17 

" " knives 24 

'* stove 17 

♦• tables 16 

'* windows 16 

Coal, anthracite 19 

Cocoa, physiological action of.. 233 

Coke 19 

Coffee, physiological action of. .232 
Condiments, alimentary ac- 
tion of 226 

*' effect in relation 

•' to climate 227 

*' medicinal prop- 
erties of 227 

Constipation, cause of 220 

Copper cooking utensils 21 

Cookery, best methods of 234 

•' effectofonfood 234 

*' for children 62 & 139 

♦' " invalids .58 & 137 

" " working people. ... 66 

Cooking temperatures 20 

'* utensils, copper 21 

'* " how to clean.. 23 

" iron 23 

tin 24 

Cooks, instruct ion for 103 

Deglutition 215 

Diet affected by occupation 211 

*' choice of 210 

" for children 62 «fc 139 

" " invalids 58 & 137 

*' physical effect of 211 

Dietary for breakfast 211 

" ■ " dinner 211 

♦• *• supper ail 



256 



INDEX. 



Digestion, affected by waste in 

^ food 219 

♦• beginning of 214 

•• complete, necessary 

lo h*>alth 213 

" effect of cold food on. 235 

♦• " condiments 

on 226 

*» «' hot food on. 234 

*» " liquid food 

on 234 

« *• salt on 226 

" •♦ seasoning on 227 

«• •* water on 231 

" " on food 212 & 213 

♦• intestinal 217 

•• mechanical opera- 

tions of ... .215 & 219 
*• normal tenipeiaturo 

of 234 

»« of fat 216 & 217 

" '' starch 216 & 217 



sugar 



.216 



** process of 212 

" stomach 216 

Dinner, abundant and early 211 

*' seven o'clock 211 

Eggs 224 

Entrails, food value of 55 & 224 

Fat 209 

" digestion of 216 & 217 

" percentage in carcass 223 

" present in food 208 & 210 

Fatty acids 209 

Fibrin 209 

" present in f oo*! 210 

Fish, food value of 224 

Fire, how to light 17 

" *' " keep 18 

Flesh foods 210 

" ♦' relative value of S20 

Food, action of digestion on 212 

♦« " gastric juice on. 214 

*' " oxygen on 215 

" absorption of. .213. 217 & 218 
" assimilation of 213, 217 & 218 

" carbonaceous 210 & 217 

♦« chemistry of 220 

" constipating 220 

** effect of cookery on 234 & 235 

" elements of 209 

" flesh 210 

" heat 210 & 217 

*' insalivationof 214 

•' mastication of 214 

•♦ nitrogenous 210 



Food, relative values of 221 

* ' relaxing 220 

" requisite to health 210 

" the source of vital force. .212 
" waste matter, use of in.. 219 
" water, proportion of in, ..228 

" value of bone 223 

*' " cheese 224 

«« " eggs 224 

'♦ " entrails 55 & 224 

«' fat 223 

•' " fish 224 

" *' meat 224 

" «♦ " mature.... 222 

" " '* young 222 

" " Milk 224 

Fuel, degrees of lieat from 19 

Gastric juice, action of. .215 & 217 
" " compositionof .. .216 

'« " effect of on starch 216 

'» '* *' nitroge- 

nous food on.. 216 

Gelatin 209 

' * present in food 210 

Glucose 210&217 

Gluten, present in food 210 

Grape sugar 210 & 217 

Heat, effect on food 234 

«' " knives 24 

" from fuel 19 

Herbs, bouquet or fagot of 15 

" dried 14 

'• when to gather and dry. 15 

Insalivation of food 214 

Instruction for beginners 26 

" cooks 103 

" *' ladies 143 

u «» large gills 66 

Intestinal fluids 215 & 21 7 

Invalids, cookery for 58 & 1*)7 

Iron.... ...^Og 

" present in foods 210 

Kitchen, clioice and fittings of. . 13 
" general cleanliness of , . 25 

•' how to clean 16 

" utensils, best materi- 
als for 21 

«' " how to clean. 22 

'♦ list of 258 

Lacteal absorption 218 & »2J9 

Lactic acid 216 

Ladies' lessons 143 

Larding fish 192 

" meat 150 

Lime 209 

'' present in food 310 



INDEX. 



257 



Magnesia 309 

" present in food 210 

Mastication 314 

Measures 14 

Meats, best methods of cooking:. 234 

" effect of pickling 222 

" " salting 223 

" " smoking 222 

♦' fat and bone in 223 

*• relative value of '. .222 

'« " " cured.. 222 

" " •' mature.222 

" •• " young.. 223 

•* variatioji of textui*e in. .223 
'♦ waste of, affected by age. 232 
<♦ " " texture. 233 

Milk, food value of 224 

Mineral salts in food 210 

Nitrogenous elements in bones . .233 
" " entrails.234 

'* " fish.... 334 

" " foods.. 231 

*' foods, effect on gas- 

tric juice .316 & 317 

Nutriment, absorption of 

213, 317 & 318 

" assimilation of 318 

Nutritive beverages 334 

" elements in food 809 

Organic acids 309 

Osmazome 209 

Osmosis 217 & 2.8 

Osmotic absorption 217 & 218 

Oxygen, action of on food 215 

Pancreatic juice 217 

Pepsin 316 

Peristaltic action 319 

Pliysical eleme^nts of the body . .309 
Physiological <ction of choco- 
late. 234 
" ♦' cocoa.. 334 

" " coffee. -233 

" " tea.... 331 

" composition of the 

body 309 

Phosphcrio acid 309 

Phospho/^is 309 

" present in food 310 

Potash 209 

' ' present in food 210 

Po'^rWes, food value of 225 



Relative values of foods 221 

Resin 209 

Saliva, action of on food 214 

•' " " gruels ....334 

" effect of crackers on 215 

" " fruit on 215 

•' " hard bread on. 215 

*' " hot food on.... 215 

" ♦* meat on 215 

" " salt on 236 

Salt, necessary to health 336 

Silica 209 

Sinks, how to clean 25 

Soda 209 

*' present in food 210 

Spice salt .... 16 

Starch, digestion of 316 & 217 

" present in food 210 

Stove, how to clean 17 

Sugar, digestion of 216 

" present in food 210 

Sulphur 209 

" present in food 210 

Supper, light and early 211 

Tea, physiological action of 231 

Waste in cooking meats 322 

'* matter in food 219 

*' of meats 333 

Water, considered hygienically .338 
" effect of on digestion. . .231 

•♦ hard 330 

•' iron pipes for 839 

'• leaden pipes for 329 

•' mineral elements in 389 

'* percentage of in food 238 

•• present in food 309 

" proportionof inthebody 828 

'* purity of 229 

•' quality of for cooking... 230 
«♦ " " drinking... 230 

" quantitv requisite to 

health 228 

" rain 230 

'« soft 230 

" sources of 229 

Weights 14 

Wood, hard 19 

" heat of different 20 

«« hickory 19 

♦' soft 19 



LIST OF KITCHEN UTENSILS. 



LIST OF 



KITCHEN UTENSILS 



REQUIRED FOR USE IJS^ ALL THE COURSES OF LESSONS. 



Soup kettle. 

Fish " 

Ham " 

Frying *' 

6 sauce-pans, large and small. 

3 dripping-pans '* " 

3 cake 

2gratin " " " 

2 frying " " " 

Omelette pan. 

Bread " 

Biscuit " 

Dish 

Vegetable cutters. 

Biscuit " 

Pie plates, large and small. 

Meat pie moulds, large and small. 

Pudding " plain and fancy. 

Jelly " " " " 

6 custard cups. 

6 pudding cups. 

6 " cloths, small. 

1 " cloth, large. 

Soup tureen and ladle. 

Dishes of all kinds. 

Meat saw. 

Cleaver. 

Apple corer. 

Graters, large and small. 

Dredging box. 

Scale and weights from }4 oz. up. 

Coal scuttle, shovel, and sifter. 



Steak gridiron. 

Fish " 

Oyster ** 

Bean pot. 

Coffee pot. 

Tea pot. 

Chocolate pot, with mill. 

Sugar boiler. 

Jelly bag. 

Flour sieve. 

Puree sieve (heavy wire.) 

Colanders, large and small. 

Strainers " " " 

Bolting cloth strainer. 

Skimmers, large and small. 

Egg whip. 

Rolling pin. 

Pastry board, 

" brush. 

" cutters. 
Larding and trussing needles. 
Mortar and pestle. 
Potato masher. 
Wooden and metal spoons. 
Corkscrew. 
Knives and forks. 
Knife board. 
Twine, emery paper. 
Soap, soda, sand, borax. 
Whiting, bathbrick, blacklead. 
Towels, dish cloths, floor cloths. 
Brooms, brushes, dustpan. 



